Solar The Solar Panel Thread

[Boots in Action]

HI @Boots in Action,
hmm. You have me thinking about this. I think we are in dire need of a good schematic diagram to focus this discussion. Will you volunteer?

cheers
Mike

Yes Mike @mikerezny , I will see what I can do. But I do not have a wiring diagram for the internal workings of the Setec, only what is in the manual. But probably it will do!! So far I have got away with all this without the smoke and flame demons appearing including with direct charging with my "smart charger" and also with the Setec on 240 volt power. But NOT with solar power at the same time, which would not happen anyway.

For you to think about - what happens at caravan parks when a van is connected to 240 volt power and there are solar panels on roof and a solar controller is in operation??? Because the Setec maxes out at 14.00 volts and most solar controllers (even the cheap ones too) usually put out 14.4 volts or more, the recommended charge for Gel battery is 14.2 to 14.4 volts (as on the side of the Ritar Gel), and my AGM wants 14.4 to 14.7 volts, I believe the solar controller would take precedence in charging. What are your educated "Tech Head' ideas on that???? The mind boggles and does my head in too!!!

 

[mikerezny]

Hi @Boots in Action,
In drawing the diagrams, you shouldn't need to consider the guts of the Setec. Initially the Setec and solar controller should just be 'black' boxes with all the terminals shown and labelled.
There needs to be two diagrams: 'standard' and your 'proposed'. The main ingredient is the interconnecting wiring.

Ah yes, the on-grid problem. Once again two controllers, both capable of being the master. My simple solution: disable one of them! My preference would be to disconnect the solar panels and just let the Setec get on with it. Mainly because everything will be working correctly with / without sun and both during the day and night.

Ok, I have been having a senior's moment and got some bits mixed up in my previous posts.
With your idea, the Setec WILL charge the battery when on 240V, no problems. Perhaps disconnect the solar panels to stop the solar controller fighting the Setec. The tug WILL still charge the battery via the AUX input on the Setec.

In thinking about the Setec one has to consider that it is two (or more) devices in one: It can operate without a battery and is thus a 12V power supply.
But with a battery it is ALSO a multi-stage battery charger. So the Setec doesn't care whether a battery is connected or not, and the load doesn't really ever know whether a battery is connected or not, unless the battery, 12V on the AUX input from the tug, and 240V are ALL not present. Then there is no 12V for the van.

If the load is shifted from Setec terminals to the solar controller load terminals, one will need to supply an alternate fuse block to replace the one in the Setec.

I don't know how the Setec and the solar controller will handle all the possible connection scenarios. I am not suggesting it won't. I am only stating only that "I" don't know.
With and without 240V;
No or stuffed or flat battery but 240V available;
No 240V, no sun, no or stuffed or flat battery, but tug battery and alternator available.

One issue I foresee is that the Setec never sees a 'load', since connection is only made to the Setec battery terminals.
A Setec ST25 is capable of delivering 25A to a load but will only deliver a maximum of 10A to a battery. BUT it will deliver less when it 'thinks' the battery is up to float voltage. If there is no, or flat or a stuffed battery, AND there is a load on the terminals, I have no idea how the Setec will react.
Basically, when on grid, the Setec will now only deliver a maximum of 10A to the load instead of 25A.

If you have a MKIII you will loose the battery isolate function. This is a simple switch that turns an internal Setec relay on and off. In your suggestion, one would have to get the solar controller to switch the load off or provide an external heavy duty switch or relay.

cheers
Mike

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi @Boots in Action,
In drawing the diagrams, you shouldn't need to consider the guts of the Setec. Initially the Setec and solar controller should just be 'black' boxes with all the terminals shown and labelled.
There needs to be two diagrams: 'standard' and your 'proposed'. The main ingredient is the interconnecting wiring.

Ah yes, the on-grid problem. Once again two controllers, both capable of being the master. My simple solution: disable one of them! My preference would be to disconnect the solar panels and just let the Setec get on with it. Mainly because everything will be working correctly with / without sun and both during the day and night.

Ok, I have been having a senior's moment and got some bits mixed up in my previous posts.
With your idea, the Setec WILL charge the battery when on 240V, no problems. Perhaps disconnect the solar panels to stop the solar controller fighting the Setec. The tug WILL still charge the battery via the AUX input on the Setec.

In thinking about the Setec one has to consider that it is two (or more) devices in one: It can operate without a battery and is thus a 12V power supply.
But with a battery it is ALSO a multi-stage battery charger. So the Setec doesn't care whether a battery is connected or not, and the load doesn't really ever know whether a battery is connected or not, unless the battery, 12V on the AUX input from the tug, and 240V are ALL not present. Then there is no 12V for the van.

If the load is shifted from Setec terminals to the solar controller load terminals, one will need to supply an alternate fuse block to replace the one in the Setec.

I don't know how the Setec and the solar controller will handle all the possible connection scenarios. I am not suggesting it won't. I am only stating only that "I" don't know.
With and without 240V;
No or stuffed or flat battery but 240V available;
No 240V, no sun, no or stuffed or flat battery, but tug battery and alternator available.

One issue I foresee is that the Setec never sees a 'load', since connection is only made to the Setec battery terminals.
A Setec ST25 is capable of delivering 25A to a load but will only deliver a maximum of 10A to a battery. BUT it will deliver less when it 'thinks' the battery is up to float voltage. If there is no, or flat or a stuffed battery, AND there is a load on the terminals, I have no idea how the Setec will react.
Basically, when on grid, the Setec will now only deliver a maximum of 10A to the load instead of 25A.

If you have a MKIII you will loose the battery isolate function. This is a simple switch that turns an internal Setec relay on and off. In your suggestion, one would have to get the solar controller to switch the load off or provide an external heavy duty switch or relay.

cheers
Mike

Hi @mikerezny , too much for me to think about tonight. I will have to sit down and go through YOUR thoughts individually to provide some sort of acceptable reply. I am not sure that the system would work without a battery, as I think the transformer would need to "see" some sort of "load" to even out the power demands if as a huge capacitor that the battery would be. I do know that on a previous post that when a member tried to use a reasonable?? load and the battery was really "stuffed" (and obviously a very high resistance to charging from the Setec), power from the battery failed to operate the load even though 240 volt supply was available to charge battery. More later when I can think things through.

 

[Boots in Action]

HI @Boots in Action,
hmm. You have me thinking about this. I think we are in dire need of a good schematic diagram to focus this discussion. Will you volunteer?

cheers
Mike

Hi Mike @mikerezny, @Eddii and @Glen Bundesen and @Bellbirdweb , I have completed the wiring diagram and will send it tomorrow for you to digest for yourselves. Connected my own van and daughter's with load through Solar Controller Load terminals and no normal features are lost or made inoperative. And NO FLAMES, OR SMOKE and no mirrors either!! More info tomorrow. Cheers

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi Mike @mikerezny, @Eddii and @Glen Bundesen and @Bellbirdweb , I have completed the wiring diagram and will send it tomorrow for you to digest for yourselves. Connected my own van and daughter's with load through Solar Controller Load terminals and no normal features are lost or made inoperative. And NO FLAMES, OR SMOKE and no mirrors either!! More info tomorrow. Cheers

Hello @mikerezny , @Eddii , @Glen Bundesen , @Bellbirdweb , @G Daddy and any other interested "Tech Heads". As promised, I have finally been able to persuade the BOSS to do these diagrams to help you all understand what I am driving at, and despite several arguments and threats of mayhem and divorce, the diagrams are now available on the computer!! Now these are schematic line drawings only and do NOT show all parts of the circuits - just the connections in question.

Let us look at Diagram 1 first. This appears to be the normal setup for Jayco vans where a cheaper solar controller is provided (Topray???) and there is no provision for logging amp hours in or out. It also means that as @Eddii said that Jayco or other manufacturers only connect the solar Input and Battery connections to the controller and NO connections are made to the "Load" terminals as "all loads goes through the Setec". If my understanding is correct, it means that the fixed settings for LVD and LVR in the Setec control have the final say. Every thing functions fully as per the Setec manual.

Now let's have a look at Diagram 2. You will see that the only change is that the battery output (to the loads) from the Setec is routed via the "Load" terminals on the Solar controller just after the battery switch and before the 25A fuse, (could be other way around?) but still allows the circuit to be unaltered beyond that point. The battery switch is still able to disconnect load from battery and the necessary fuses are still in circuit and all other operations (charging etc) are unaffected. THE BIG change is that the Solar Controller now has a chance to sense voltages under load conditions and therefore can control LVD and LVR according to its own specifications. This would operate BEFORE the Setec which although still in the same circuit has different (and possibly/probably??) lower settings before operating.

I have also attached a copy of another instruction for connecting a Solar Controller. Note the diagram and the advice that high /heavy use appliances should not be connected to the Load terminals of the controller and MUST be connected directly across the battery terminals. And of course, one should NOT try to draw more current through the Solar Controller Load terminals that the rated output. This should not be a problem as the in line fuse should stop this from happening if correctly rated fuse is there.

Now let's see what would happen in the event that the solar controller senses the battery voltage is too low to carry the load connected. It disconnects ALL the loads beyond/after the controller , BUT does NOT disconnect any loads still connected across the battery (Inverters etc). The Setec will still allow current to be drawn from the battery AND the ability to charge at the higher rate is still available. If the load still being carried continues to cause the battery voltage to drop, the Setec LVD will eventually operate as normal. At 10 volts, that is far too late for my liking, as I believe battery would be "stuffed" at that point!!

IMPORTANT NOTE: this type of connection is for Solar Controllers within the van, and although possible to make similar connections to a portable panel, it would be a messy arrangement. But very suitable for connecting to battery/ies being charged by solar and having load placed on them. Just check out the LVD and LVR settings on controller - fixed or adjustable - to see that they suit your own requirements. Also, this may not be applicable to those with sophisticated systems such as "Drifter" panels??

So to sum up, by having battery output sensed by the solar controller earlier than the Setec, there is more protection for the battery, but there is still the "fail safe" back up of the Setec.

Incidentally, this sort of connection was made when I had my first solar controller connected (Powertech) and as it logs amp hours into system as well as lights to indicate battery voltage above and below LVD setting, I guess that the "load" connections were applicable then. It also had user adjustable settings for bulk and float voltages and the same for LVD and LVR.

Criticisms,advice and comments are most welcome. But my connections have been without problems in any area and NO FLAMES or SMOKE demons appeared. Always willing to learn!! Cheers

Circuit diagrams deleted as absolutely WRONG and MISLEADING!! New diagrams to be redrawn. If read beforehand, please disregard all circuit diagrams!! Apologies from an over enthusiastic "Tech Head".

 

[Eddii]

Hi @Boots in Action, thanks for your detailed explanation and diagram. I wasn't aware that this configuration works. It seems like you have used the controller output as some type of "shunt" which will see all your power consumption. Was your controller configurable or did it mention that you could wire it this way?
My head hurts a bit trying to decipher this diagram One part of my brain says it shouldn't work and the other part saying well it works but howww?
It's like shorting the controller output because there's no potential difference across the terminals.
Must be an internal setting in the controller somehow..

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi @Boots in Action, thanks for your detailed explanation and diagram. I wasn't aware that this configuration works. It seems like you have used the controller output as some type of "shunt" which will see all your power consumption. Was your controller configurable or did it mention that you could wire it this way?
My head hurts a bit trying to decipher this diagram One part of my brain says it shouldn't work and the other part saying well it works but howww?
It's like shorting the controller output because there's no potential difference across the terminals.
Must be an internal setting in the controller somehow..

Hi @Eddii, I did not know that you were a "Tech Head" because you have been fairly quiet on some of these issues raised previously. No wonder you could not understand my previous post as it seems I was discussing something you had not previously considered and my explanation appeared "double dutch" to you. Sorry about that, but @mikerezny forced my hand in providing a "rough" circuit diagram!!
I do not think there is anything magic about the setup. All solar controllers (good ones anyway) claim to have some sort of LVD and LVR and obviously this has to be "sensed" somewhere in the circuit. Could not be in the Solar Input circuit, and the Battery charging circuit is mainly about regulating charging voltage and current. So if you are going to have some voltage sensing in the unit, is that different to voltage control on the input circuit??? But then it must be able to sense a lower voltage setting AND disconnect load but not any input that may be trickling in . Not only that, it must be able to sense a re-connection voltage state , and re-connect the load again, sometimes automatically, sometimes it has to be manually. I am not pretending to be an expert on this at all, just raising issues that some "smart"Tech Head" on this forum might be able to answer.
The original Powertech 20A PWM controller I had was connected by a van "Sparkie" who obviously knew that as the controller had to be able to record and display current into battery AND log up to 3 days Ah generation separately, besides have have lights for : 1 - battery voltage is lower than 12.6v, 2 - battery voltage has reached low voltage dis-connect, 3 - battery voltage is higher than 12.6 volts, 4 - battery voltage has reached BULK charging setting (fully charged before going to float), 5 - battery voltage is lower than LVD and load has been disconnected. All this whilst charging and various loads may or may not be applied at the same time. Computer chips can do this can't they?? But they have to wired for this to happen.
That Powertech did not total load output for that day or the previous two days, only Ah input into the system. Bulk voltage, Float voltage, low voltage dis-connect and low voltage re-connect were all adjustable parameters for the user.
However, when I installed my LD MPPT solar controller, it DOES have all these display functions (and many otherrs too) including input and output in amp hours on an accumulating scale display, besides the number of LVDs and LVRs during that period. Has not happened to me but I have accidentally hit the wrong button while checking display readout and this disconnect was recorded and displayed. So I guessed that those sensors had to be in the Load circuit?? I just connected up the leads to the MPPT controller as before and EVERYTHING works perfectly. Ain't technology great???? If you can get your head around all that and let me know how it all operates, please let me know.

 

[Eddii]

Thanks for your explanation @Boots in Action I like technology but not an expert at all. I always like to learn new things, keeps my brain ticking hehehe. I’m aware of most controllers functionality and advance settings especially the more expensive type. I just couldn’t get my head around the part where you wired incoming 12v to the positive side of controller load output and negative side to inline fuse which then feeds the loads in the van. I thought you’re suppose to wire the negative side to - terminals of battery?
What you have successfully achieved there was placed the controller in series ( as per your explanation) which means if I measure the voltage across the load output terminals I’d get 0v because there’s no potential difference or voltage drop across.
The setting ( if there was any) that I mentioned was how you have achieved to wire it(series) instead of conventional way.
Normally negative terminals are commoned in the circuit board to the negative side of battery.
I’m not saying it’s wrong but I would like to know the how. Cause for me, you have discovered something I wasn’t aware of and I think it’s awesome and I want to learn it.
Thanks again

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi again @Eddii , of course you ARE RIGHT. I probably have the correct wiring in the van, BUT my circuit diagram is WRONG!! Referring to diagram # 2, delete reference to the pos wire from the Setec Control to battery switch as power for loads comes from the Solar Controller Battery Terminals and voltage is "sensed" at the solar controller. Somewhere in there, the battery isolation switch manages to disconnect the load/s, and the Setec LVD and LVR would have to be across the pos and neg lines between the battery and Setec controller. Ah well, back to the drawing board for a new circuit diagram to match what I actually have in connections. And the reason I knew that if pos to the controller was earthed to neg, THAT would create a dead short and there would be lots of sparks, smoke and flames!! So do not believe every thing you see as not always what you think if led astray by a nutter Tech Head!!!. Will see if I can get the BOSS to do me another circuit that MATCHES what I have actually done. I will also check all operations for disconnection of loads to confirm again what I believe is happening.

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi again @Eddii , of course you ARE RIGHT. I probably have the correct wiring in the van, BUT my circuit diagram is WRONG!! Referring to diagram # 2, delete reference to the pos wire from the Setec Control to battery switch as power for loads comes from the Solar Controller Battery Terminals and voltage is "sensed" at the solar controller. Somewhere in there, the battery isolation switch manages to disconnect the load/s, and the Setec LVD and LVR would have to be across the pos and neg lines between the battery and Setec controller. Ah well, back to the drawing board for a new circuit diagram to match what I actually have in connections. And the reason I knew that if pos to the controller was earthed to neg, THAT would create a dead short and there would be lots of sparks, smoke and flames!! So do not believe every thing you see as not always what you think if led astray by a nutter Tech Head!!!. Will see if I can get the BOSS to do me another circuit that MATCHES what I have actually done. I will also check all operations for disconnection of loads to confirm again what I believe is happening.

Hello @Eddii and @mikerezny , after making a fool of myself TRYING to draw an electrical circuit incorporating what I have successfully connected in my van and my Daughter's, I used what little brain power I had left and looked up on my computer more info on how a solar controller actually works. Unfortunately it does not show an electrical circuit, but it DOES confirm what I have been unable to properly explain about the value of having the LOAD connected through the solar controller. In fact, the site states that to be able to know/record/display amps in AND out of controller (plus other info on charge settings LVDs and LVRs settings etc), you need to connect the Load through the controller. The following site helps explain this and there may be others too. So sorry to all on this site for getting off to a misleading start, but this site vindicates what I have said about having a better control of safe battery voltage operation of van battery by using settings on a good solar controller. The settings in the Setec if LOAD terminals on controller are NOT connected do not stack up against good controllers IMHO. I shall leave it up to you on how/what you think, but I am confident that my controller is going to look after my van battery better by connecting the load to the terminals than not doing so. You do have to have a controller that has user settings, but even if you have one of the cheaper controllers, connecting the load through the solar controller will /may give you better settings than the Setec when you look at the specs of same.

https://itechworld.com.au/blogs/learn/how-does-a-solar-regulator-work

I am still trying to work out a circuit on how this is incorporated into my set up so that the settings on my controller are involved in the battery operation without losing any of the other features in the SETEC controller!!

 

[Eddii]

Totally agree with you @Boots in Action . I’d love to change my set up in our van to hook up to controllers load terminals but running cables back to Setec is a bit of a task unfortunately . My controller is located in the middle overhead cupboard and Setec under our bed in front of the van. I’ll put that in my things to do one day

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi @Eddii again. I think that @Bellbirdweb had to do some similar changes to his system when he upgraded from his Topray controller to an Epever MPPT controller. He seemed to arrange it without too many problems, but I do not know if he has the same van type as you. If you look back on this SOLAR forum, you may find details as to what he did. It may be easier than you think. Cheers

 

[Boots in Action]

Totally agree with you @Boots in Action . I’d love to change my set up in our van to hook up to controllers load terminals but running cables back to Setec is a bit of a task unfortunately . My controller is located in the middle overhead cupboard and Setec under our bed in front of the van. I’ll put that in my things to do one day

Hi @Eddii , @mikerezny and @Bellbirdweb , just found this little "gem" of wisdom on another forum. Backs up what I have been saying about LVR in Setec being FAR TOO LOW!! Definitely a good reason to put all loads (except very heavy current users) through the Solar controller IF LVD is better than Setec OR can be set by user.

#5
02-13-2017, 06:55 PM

A lot of people don't realize that the usual 10.7 to 11.7v LVD voltage, is NOT to be used for normal disconnects, but merely as a dead-man switch to protect a battery that is already fully discharged from going further and causing immediate physical damage.

When it trips, you must recharge to full immediately, and not with an unreliable source of solar power. That LVD voltage is a battery-saver IF you recharge. However, "saved" does not mean you haven't given the battery a heart-attack and cycle life has been adversely affected.

Under normal use, this LVD should be MUCH higher. In your case, about 12.2v roughly estimating about 50% DOD.

Even worse, is not recharging to full pronto. Your buyers have had their batteries sit around sulfating in a totally discharged state, so that compounds the problem. Not enough solar. Not enough capacity. Too low of an LVD voltage destroying batteries with repetetive partial-state-of-charge conditions.

The next thing you do is figure out why your *primary* LVD, which should be much higher has failed. For your little agm's, that would be around 12.2v under load, NOT the dead-man 11.2v catch.

If we knew what size your panels are, and what capacity your battery is, I'll bet that a minimum of quadrupling your panel power and at the very least doubling your battery capacity is called for. Get ready to recycle every one of your existing batteries.

Your system needs a major redesign.

 

[Bellbirdweb]

Hi @Eddii again. I think that @Bellbirdweb had to do some similar changes to his system when he upgraded from his Topray controller to an Epever MPPT controller. He seemed to arrange it without too many problems, but I do not know if he has the same van type as you. If you look back on this SOLAR forum, you may find details as to what he did. It may be easier than you think. Cheers

Yes mine had the same issue.

The factory controller was located above the fridge with cables from panels and batteries both connected there.

All I did was join the cables coming from the panels and going to the batteries.

I installed the new controller near the battery and relocated the cables from the battery to the solar input on the new controller, then ran new battery cables.

 

[Bellbirdweb]

Hi @Eddii , @mikerezny and @Bellbirdweb , just found this little "gem" of wisdom on another forum. Backs up what I have been saying about LVR in Setec being FAR TOO LOW!! Definitely a good reason to put all loads (except very heavy current users) through the Solar controller IF LVD is better than Setec OR can be set by user.

#5
02-13-2017, 06:55 PM

A lot of people don't realize that the usual 10.7 to 11.7v LVD voltage, is NOT to be used for normal disconnects, but merely as a dead-man switch to protect a battery that is already fully discharged from going further and causing immediate physical damage.

When it trips, you must recharge to full immediately, and not with an unreliable source of solar power. That LVD voltage is a battery-saver IF you recharge. However, "saved" does not mean you haven't given the battery a heart-attack and cycle life has been adversely affected.

Under normal use, this LVD should be MUCH higher. In your case, about 12.2v roughly estimating about 50% DOD.

Even worse, is not recharging to full pronto. Your buyers have had their batteries sit around sulfating in a totally discharged state, so that compounds the problem. Not enough solar. Not enough capacity. Too low of an LVD voltage destroying batteries with repetetive partial-state-of-charge conditions.

The next thing you do is figure out why your *primary* LVD, which should be much higher has failed. For your little agm's, that would be around 12.2v under load, NOT the dead-man 11.2v catch.

If we knew what size your panels are, and what capacity your battery is, I'll bet that a minimum of quadrupling your panel power and at the very least doubling your battery capacity is called for. Get ready to recycle every one of your existing batteries.

Your system needs a major redesign.

I didn’t get a chance to see you original diagram @Boots in Action so now I’m really interested in seeing your revised version.

Based on @mikerezny’s comment above about losing the battery isolate switch on the STIII and having a drifter, I’m keen to have a look and see if it’s something applicable to my setup or not.

 

[Boots in Action]

Yes mine had the same issue.

The factory controller was located above the fridge with cables from panels and batteries both connected there.

All I did was join the cables coming from the panels and going to the batteries.

I installed the new controller near the battery and relocated the cables from the battery to the solar input on the new controller, then ran new battery cables.

Thanks @Bellbirdweb , I am sure @Eddii will appreciate your help on that matter.

 

[Boots in Action]

I didn’t get a chance to see you original diagram @Boots in Action so now I’m really interested in seeing your revised version.

Based on @mikerezny’s comment above about losing the battery isolate switch on the STIII and having a drifter, I’m keen to have a look and see if it’s something applicable to my setup or not.

Hi @Bellbirdweb , my initial electrical circuit diagram was FULL of FAULTS as I struggled to put thoughts onto paper to match what I had successfully connected on my van and Daughter's. I have tried to distance myself from that hash of a diagram and have edited original post accordingly. Still trying to analyse what is connected in my van that works so well. Stay tuned. Would the "Drifter" panel have a different system of LVD and LVR controls or does it rely on the display providing VISUAL warning only?? Over to you on that one. I am sure that your Epever MPPT controller HAS user variable settings for these plus others, but I do not think that they are operable unless the loads are connected through the solar controller itself. A lot of those functions may be unnecessary when a Drifter system is fitted, but maybe NOT the settings. I know my system works, because when I have altered the settings for max charge voltage and float voltage , the volt meter confirms that panels are charging higher and float comes in at new setting. LVD and LVR not yet tested, but should do so if rest of settings work.

 

[Boots in Action]

Hello @Eddii and @mikerezny , after making a fool of myself TRYING to draw an electrical circuit incorporating what I have successfully connected in my van and my Daughter's, I used what little brain power I had left and looked up on my computer more info on how a solar controller actually works. Unfortunately it does not show an electrical circuit, but it DOES confirm what I have been unable to properly explain about the value of having the LOAD connected through the solar controller. In fact, the site states that to be able to know/record/display amps in AND out of controller (plus other info on charge settings LVDs and LVRs settings etc), you need to connect the Load through the controller. The following site helps explain this and there may be others too. So sorry to all on this site for getting off to a misleading start, but this site vindicates what I have said about having a better control of safe battery voltage operation of van battery by using settings on a good solar controller. The settings in the Setec if LOAD terminals on controller are NOT connected do not stack up against good controllers IMHO. I shall leave it up to you on how/what you think, but I am confident that my controller is going to look after my van battery better by connecting the load to the terminals than not doing so. You do have to have a controller that has user settings, but even if you have one of the cheaper controllers, connecting the load through the solar controller will /may give you better settings than the Setec when you look at the specs of same.

https://itechworld.com.au/blogs/learn/how-does-a-solar-regulator-work

I am still trying to work out a circuit on how this is incorporated into my set up so that the settings on my controller are involved in the battery operation without losing any of the other features in the SETEC controller!!

Hi @Bellbirdweb , @mikerezny and @Eddii , it is dark at the moment, but tomorrow morning, I will get into my Penguin and test out and CONFIRM the following:
1 whilst in normal operating electrical condition, I shall operate the "battery Disconnect" switch and note exactly what happens.
2. I will do the same thing with the SETEC controller in operation and charging battery as necessary and report what stays on and what goes off.
3. I will disconnect the Setec and connect up a solar panel and operate "Battery Disconnect" switch and see what stays on and what goes off.
4 Any other combinations I can think of.
5. I will take pictures of all visible connections to see if that helps.

I know most of the results already, but this will definitely CONFIRM ALL settings.

Should have info and pics by lunch time.

 

[mikerezny]

Hi @Boots in Action,
what model Setec do you have? Only the mkIII has the manual battery isolate switch incorporated. If you have an earlier Setec AND a battery isolate switch than it is wired differently and probably only directly disconnects the battery.

cheers
Mike

 

[Eddii]

was located above the fridge with cables from panels and batteries both connected there.

Brilliant!!! Thanks for this. I can now take advantage running two panels in parallel mode roof+folding panels(occasionally).Problem solved