Hi @Drover,Yep been down that path in the vehicles, as for the polarity bit with the controller I have no flamin idea the why's but will buy a neg ground job just to be sure.
I know you finicky fellas will gag but I needed extra length on my portable panel due to trees and the roof panel is off line due to shade, a touch of old timers meant the long extension is in the shed, so the 240 extension lead got a mod and with some tape and pliers I now have my 120w portable panel in sunlight, no loss either which was surprising.....of course my spare Anderson's were utilized a few weeks back......
Ok, I will try to explain where I am coming from.
Probably more information than you want!
Old days: cars could be +ve or -ve ground. Meaning which terminal of the battery was wired to the chassis. To connect anything one had to only run one wire to the device and the return path was through a connection to the chassis. Never a problem with lights etc which were not sensitive to polarity.
Big problem with generators however and one had to zap the field coils to ensure the generator would generate the correct polarity for the vehicle.
Worse still were the new-fangled car radios which were polarity sensitive. Some fancy ones could be switched to +ve or -ve polarity. Otherwise, one had to hunt around for a radio to match the polarity of the vehicle. In those early days, I thought I would be clever and just isolate the radio from the chassis and put the hot wire to ground and the vehicle power to the chassis. Great idea until I plugged in the car aerial. That had the shield firmly connected to the chassis and the car chassis was now firmly connected to the power. Sparks everywhere! Can't remember now if it blew the radio up. That was almost 50 years ago. I also remember completely changing the polarity of a vehicle so I could use a radio I already had.
The situation with a solar regulator seems to be a little different in that both the -ve and +ve terminals for both the solar input and the output to battery are supplied. There is actually no reliance on a chassis earth. The only problem I can foresee is IF the case of the regulator is metal AND is internally connected to either the +ve or -ve terminals of the regulator. Then IF the regulator is screwed to the metal chassis of the van AND the chassis is connected to either the +ve or -ve terminal of the battery, then there could be a short circuit if the device is the opposite polarity to the van wiring.
Or there is something else going on that I am not aware of.
cheers
Mike
The new 150w panels (disguised as 250w) have been sent back to the evil genius that cleverly manage to remove 100w of their potential. Now im on the look out for some replacements that dont cost more than my houseThanks Mike, Ive been (for me) unusually polite with the seller, possibly because I suspected it was always going to be a gamble. After some token resistance, multiple offers of discounts, and some very funky camp lights the seller has eventually agreed to have the panels collected by a courier for a full refund, so aside from the inconvenience no real harm done.
Actually, its provided a good lesson. The next installment of my quest for panels may need to be in person. That will eliminate the potential to use the anonimity of online sales to engage in weasel like behavior by trying to avoid taking responsibilty for a crap product.
My issue measuring the panels direct output was the panels should produce in excess of the 10amp capacity of my standard meter, and I not in favour of buying a 20amp $100 meter to test a cheap solar panel. The voltage was close enough on my meter, and I relied on the Victron output for the amps which peaked at a much less than expected 8.4amps.
I know you finicky fellas will gag but I needed extra length on my portable panel due to trees and the roof panel is off line due to shade, a touch of old timers meant the long extension is in the shed, so the 240 extension lead got a mod and with some tape and pliers I now have my 120w portable panel in sunlight, no loss either which was surprising.....of course my spare Anderson's were utilized a few weeks back......
The new 150w panels (disguised as 250w) have been sent back to the evil genius that cleverly manage to remove 100w of their potential. Now im on the look out for some replacements that dont cost more than my house
..............Now thats a bargain, I might get serious about upgrading and replacing my panels on Van and Ute, have to add 2 Epever controllers to the mix as well... ......where do i get it ... .............. .....
Ouch, that's a lot of generator fuel. I have a shallow concern for the environment, and I have a deep emotional concern for my wallet. At $1200 my rip off meter is spiking, and the irony is Kick Ass in name is Kick Ass in nature but it would be my ass getting kicked. From practical experience I'd get better performance from 2 x 150w Super Cheap panels for half the price.Hi @Crusty181 , now if you are looking for the ultimate solar panel/s, have a look at Kick Ass's latest 250 watt folding panel - 5 folds and extra light. Only $1200.00 for panels alone. Cables and controller are extra!! But then you have them, so it is still $1200.00. I am sure your house is worth much more than that!!! Too rich for me whilst I am still camping, so looks like I will be carrying my 14kg glass panels around for the foreseeable future. Perhaps you may wish to indulge in this field???
Ouch, that's a lot of generator fuel. I have a shallow concern for the environment, and I have a deep emotional concern for my wallet. At $1200 my rip off meter is spiking, and the irony is Kick Ass in name is Kick Ass in nature but it would be my ass getting kicked. From practical experience I'd get better performance from 2 x 150w Super Cheap panels for half the price.
That Kick Ass panel is almost 10 foot long, Id need a mortgage, a vacant site next door and a team of Oompa Loompas to set it up.
I had a cursory glance over the Kick Ass offerings and they are unjustifiably expensive across their entire range, and Im pretty sure I wont be ringing their bells. If someones kids should go the DisneyLand on the back of price gouging, it will be mine. You dont have shares in Kick Ass @Boots in Action ???
This was what I had found ages back as a good readable guide to stuff, lost the link but found it again, or has it been posted already ? This thread has got too big to look for stuff.
.
http://12voltblog.com.au/a-guide-to-using-solar-panels-and-regulators/
http://12voltblog.com.au/solar-panels-parallel-series-shading-diodes/
Hi BootsHi there again @Drover, I too am becoming a bit of a cynic like you on the workmanship (or lack of to be precise!) of Jayco electrics. Daughter has a Jayco Journey which she purchased NEW from company in Brisbane in 2010. After a weekend of drama ( a separate story to come), where battery failure without warning occurred, I fortunately was on site to sort out their problem. The van has only a 80 watt solar panel on roof and has been mainly used on 240 volt power. Jayco fitted a TopRAYSolar controller 30A type - same as Camec. The only problem was that of the 3 twin connections on panel (battery, solar and load), Jayco failed to connect ANY wires to the Load terminals so no display on amp hours used each day!! Daughter and husband are not technically minded and just read off the voltage shown and did not try to see what they were using and what had to be put back into the system after being off grid. And this was done during the day time and with no load, so voltage reading was deceiving. Actually showed 12.5 volts until light/s were turned on and or the DVD player was connected, which caused a sudden drop to 11.0 volts and continued to sink even lower to under 10.00 volts. "No one told us about anything!" was their response. A trap for the unwary.
Actually it was wired correctly. Nothing gets connected to the load outputs, that is designed for a 12v output only, not for charging.Hi there again @Drover, I too am becoming a bit of a cynic like you on the workmanship (or lack of to be precise!) of Jayco electrics. Daughter has a Jayco Journey which she purchased NEW from company in Brisbane in 2010. After a weekend of drama ( a separate story to come), where battery failure without warning occurred, I fortunately was on site to sort out their problem. The van has only a 80 watt solar panel on roof and has been mainly used on 240 volt power. Jayco fitted a TopRAYSolar controller 30A type - same as Camec. The only problem was that of the 3 twin connections on panel (battery, solar and load), Jayco failed to connect ANY wires to the Load terminals so no display on amp hours used each day!! Daughter and husband are not technically minded and just read off the voltage shown and did not try to see what they were using and what had to be put back into the system after being off grid. And this was done during the day time and with no load, so voltage reading was deceiving. Actually showed 12.5 volts until light/s were turned on and or the DVD player was connected, which caused a sudden drop to 11.0 volts and continued to sink even lower to under 10.00 volts. "No one told us about anything!" was their response. A trap for the unwary.
Nothing goes to the load connections unless you want to power something directly from solar (not from the battery) which is unlikelyHi Boots
Just fitting a TopRaySolar and was wondering what needs to go into the LOAD side. Do I just run another twin from the battery to the "Load" terminals and leave the existing wires/circuits coming straight from the battery?