I bought 2 x "cheaper" 250w panels from Ebay but the output was equiv to my 150w blanket, so sent them back. I recall its a 300w, but what actual panel did you end up with, sounds like the one to get
Solar The Solar Panel Thread
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Slightly off topic, but I had my home solar system installed last week. The panels are 320w LG panels. Its a shame I dont have enough room on the roof of the Expanda to fit a couple of these !!
12.6kW array in the system
12.6kW array in the system
Might want to get onto those gutters ... arent you a firey???
So.…...
My Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/20 arrived in the mail today.
I'll be replacing the standard Jayco charge controller for the Panel.
Whats the safe way of doing this? Do I disconnect the panel or battery first (and then is it safe to assume to connect the controller in the reverse order to disconnecting)?
Also, currently the controller only has the PV panel and battery connected. The load terminals are not connected.
I have the Drifta panel.
Can I run load wires from the battery back up to the new MPPT controller? If so, where do I terminate the wires near the battery? Across the shunt or the battery directly? Is the load connected in "serial" (ie. in and out of the controller) or "parallel" (across the load)?
Thanks in advance.
My Victron SmartSolar MPPT 100/20 arrived in the mail today.
I'll be replacing the standard Jayco charge controller for the Panel.
Whats the safe way of doing this? Do I disconnect the panel or battery first (and then is it safe to assume to connect the controller in the reverse order to disconnecting)?
Also, currently the controller only has the PV panel and battery connected. The load terminals are not connected.
I have the Drifta panel.
Can I run load wires from the battery back up to the new MPPT controller? If so, where do I terminate the wires near the battery? Across the shunt or the battery directly? Is the load connected in "serial" (ie. in and out of the controller) or "parallel" (across the load)?
Thanks in advance.
Looking at the instructions
https://www.victronenergy.com/uploa...-10-75-15-100-15-100-20-EN-NL-FR-DE-ES-SE.pdf
Connect the Load, then Battery, then PV Panel. Safe to assume remove the old one is the reverse order?
Also, as the load side has the ability to disconnect to the load when the battery voltage is low I am assuming it must be in serial. So taking a wire from the negative side of the shunt -> into load connector on the controller positive side -> Negative load connector on controller -> negative terminal on battery. Will that work?
https://www.victronenergy.com/uploa...-10-75-15-100-15-100-20-EN-NL-FR-DE-ES-SE.pdf
Connect the Load, then Battery, then PV Panel. Safe to assume remove the old one is the reverse order?
Also, as the load side has the ability to disconnect to the load when the battery voltage is low I am assuming it must be in serial. So taking a wire from the negative side of the shunt -> into load connector on the controller positive side -> Negative load connector on controller -> negative terminal on battery. Will that work?
Well @Macka , the first part I can answer for you. 1. Turn off ALL loads . 2. disconnect solar input. Remember it will still produce current even in weak light. 3. Disconnect battery terminals. Re- connection is the reverse - ie. connect battery, then solar input. Then LOADS but with switches OFF. Now I know I have been spruiking the value of connecting the loads through the solar controller because you can set your own settings for battery type, charge and float voltages, LVD and LVR settings plus probably many others, but I have to admit that I do not know the setup for a Drifta pack. My advices have applied to the simple connection by disconnecting load circuit from battery power and connecting new leads from load circuit to load terminals of solar panel as per my previous diagrams. That means that no power is available from battery terminals and the solar controller gets its battery power for the loads from its own connections directly across the battery terminals. I am sure some of the real "TECH HEADS" on this forum who are familiar with the way a Drifta panel is wired will be able to help you there. @Bellbirdweb or our member from Toowoomba (cannot remember forum name) really understand this method and I would trust them completely. Just remember, that as you have only a 20A controller, it can only provide you with up to 20A to power your loads. Any really heavy power loads - inverters, 12 volt kettles etc MUST be connected directly across the battery terminals and NOT through the solar controller load terminals. Any combination of loads is okay, as long as the TOTAL does not exceed 20A. Good luck.
Hmmm
I've never seen anything even remotely close on to 20A draw on the Drifter panel - is it safe to assume that whatever draw I see on the panel is everything coming through as "load" (the exception being the Gas heater bypasses the shunt as the heater needs to cool down after working - shutting off without a cool down period would be very bad).
I always like to throw a canvas sheet over the panel, pull the fuse for van and disconnect the battery mine has fuses but if cable removal I always tape up the ends, then I can disconnect all the other bits, the solar reg should shut right down soon as the battery is disconnected and I tape the solar feeds when I disconnect them.........depending how Jayco have run the cables it might be just as easier to forego hooking up to the load, you may need to have a buss Bar for the Pos and Neg cables to connect to then run a single heavy cable from each Buss Bar to the regulator load terminal..... Jayco tend to have a myriad of cables..........but you could be lucky .
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Ha,ha thats what i thought, mine is relatively easy just a short run of cable but since its all in the boot I thought Nah ......... just like in the ute I can look at all manner of engine read outs, I don't bother now other than trans temp, the novelty worn off..............I must admit when you turn on the water pump that sends the numbers spinning, I did a temp hook up once to see if my guestimates were close to actual.
Fortunately for you @Macca_75 , you are able to obtain a lot of info from the Drifta panel, so not so great an advantage for you other than the adjustable voltage settings you can make AND also the better LVD and LVR settings, if you for some reason do not keep an eye on your Drifta panel - probably unlikely? Just as @Drover said, sometimes the location of wiring and connecting new lines can be a challenge. The Swan OB I fixed in the field (mentioned in another earlier post) was easy because the fuse panel and Top Ray solar controller were close together. The other one was for my daughter's 2010 Journey where the old Top Ray controller was on the side wall with the fridge behind it. Although the battery was a bit further away, I did not disconnect the battery wires at the battery - only where it connected to the main fuze box, where I terminated and insulated the ends. But after disconnecting and insulating the battery cable at the main fuze box controls, it was easy to run a new set of wires from the Load circuit fuze box to the Load terminals on upgraded solar controller. As the controller only has a capacity of 20A, they do not have to be very heavy - say 30A capacity. However, the wires from solar controller to battery should be as short as possible and capable of easily handling MORE than the max output of panels ie 20A. The only physical part I found was running the extra wires from the solar controller down the inside wall next to the fridge to the nearby fuze box.
Pity to not use the extra settings available on you new MPPT controller though.
As I am replacing the existing PWM controller I was planning on reusing the existing wires (from both the panel and to the battery). If I add another panel than maybe thicker wire will be required, however that would be a job I would defer to someone more qualified than myself. They could look at the wires from the controller to the battery at the time.
A useful technique for removing a flexible solar panel is a length of fishing line. Start under one corner and saw backwards and forwards. Separates the silicon nicely. Not so easy if adhesive was used
I replaced my jayco supplied controller with an ecoworthy mppt. $120 on ebay and the real deal. Adjustable bulk and float and true mppt so long as the panel voltage is over 30ish (so you need 2 panels in series to get max conversion efficiency). The PWM works fine though for a typical 20V panel. I'm much happier with a 13.5 ish float compared to the 14.4V of the jayco (and other cheap) PWM controllers
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@jazzeddie1234 , I think you have the wrong figures. The float voltage of the Jayco Setec is set at 13.6 volts and the max charge voltage is 14.0 volts. The max charge voltage is the limit that charger will go to before it starts the "Absorption" phase which maintains the voltage whilst reducing the current. When the current has been reduced to less than 1 amp as the battery is charged to max capacity, (or whatever the algorithm), the charger moves to the Float" stage where a lower voltage is maintained and the occasional small amount of current is applied to cover any battery losses. Most solar controllers (the cheaper ones) are set for 14.4 volts max charge and 13.8 volts float or close to those figures. Have a look at the side of your battery for manufacturers recommendations. Below are some pictures of recommendations for the Gel battery usually found in Jayco vans and also a shot of an AGM battery (which I have) and note the higher max charge rate suggested. I have the settings adjustable on my LD Solar MPPT solar controller, set at 14.6 volts (max charge voltage) and 13.8 volts for Float. For the technically minded, this voltage needs to be adjusted slightly for temperature - slightly lower for hot conditions and slightly higher for colder conditions. My controller has a remote temperature sensor to do this automatically and is taped to the top of my battery. Hope this clears up any misconception you have about battery and solar controller voltages and charging.
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Well @Macca_75 , the first thing we need to know is what type of battery (chemistry) you have. That will give you the recommended ranges for your battery type. As we vanners usually like to use our vans frequently, you should look at the cyclic rate ie. because when we use the battery, we charge it up again straight away for the next outing - or should do!! If you are only using your battery occasionally - say once every 4 or 6 months or perhaps only once a year, one could consider this almost "stand by" usage. This is normally for banks of batteries that are used as back up if the main supply fails like UPS.(uninterrupted power supply)
The other details on the battery refer to Amp hour capacity of stored energy in battery. The Ritar Gel has 100ah whilst the Power Pro has 130ah. The next important bit of info is the Initial max current that the battery can handle while charging without getting hot and being damaged. The AGM wins this one hands down at 32.5 A and the Gel only likes less than 20A. So this only applies if you have a charger capable of these outputs as usually 10 to 15 or even 20 amp chargers are fine. It is a matter of how fast you want to get full power back into the battery for use. Usually not a problem unless stuck out in the bush or you have neglected to keep an eye on the battery and its level.
The stand by voltage is the recommended voltage for Float. That is the voltage you want the battery to be at after it is fully charged (max power has been absorbed into the storage) and it no longer needs any more charging. It is then at a constant fully charged level for when you want to use it. Modern "smart" chargers are so sophisticated that you can leave then connected to your battery indefinitely. The Setec charge system in a lot of Jayco vans is pretty good at looking after your battery as far as float and store voltages are concerned, which prevents build up of sulphation and corrosion of positive plates if left to continually charge at the float setting. It is not so good at charging to the max voltage for various batteries as it only gets to 14.0 volts and is limited to 10A or 15A usually. So IMHO, get the best voltage into your battery with a "smart" charger or good solar controller and when the battery reaches Float status, put it back onto the Setec (240v) to look after the battery.
If you send me a pickie of your battery, I will be able to confirm all the details for you.
@Boots in Action Sorry I was referring to the jayco supplied PWM controller (topray) voltages, not the setec. I don't have the specs for it but my drifter would show about 14.4V with full sun which I think is typical for a cheap PWM. My point was more about being able to source much better controllers for not much more. I now get to set my bulk/absorption and float to whatever without continually over driving (in my opinion) the batteries. I have wired the topray to an external anderson and it still gets used when I plug in my portable panels. I also set my solar controller(s) based on planned usage so they defer to the setec in caravan parks and do their job when freecamping
I leave the Drifter panel battery switched "on" so the Solar is always topping the battery off (I don't use a cover). When the van comes home it goes onto Mains 15A for 1 or 2 days min.
So....
Standby = Float.
I'll have a look at the battery if I can lift it out easily - but it's the Jayco supplied on on a 2016 van.
The reason for my interest is I will be removing the Standard Jayco PWM Solar controller and replacing it with a new Victron Smart Solar 100/20. Just wasn't sure what (if any) settings had to be tweaked and if so, what values I need to set.
Thanks again for taking the time.
Okay @jazzeddie1234 , now I get the picture. The max charge voltage for the Jayco Topray solar controller is 14.5 volts plus or minus 0.4 volts. From memory, the float is around 13.8 volts which is fine. And Top Ray is not so cheap either at around $85.00. It does have of course a display screen (instead of lights etc) and shows amps IN and VOLTAGE, and amps OUT but only IF THE LOAD IS CONNECTED TO THE SOLAR CONTROLLER.
Setting your solar controller to a lower voltage when in a caravan park and on 240 power seems to me to be a bit of a waste. Does the Drifter on 240 volt power charge as high as the solar controller - say 14.4 volts? The Setec in my Penguin only charges to 14.0 volts - too low to get the best capacity into AGM battery. My Daughter has a Jayco Journey with an 80 watt panel on the roof and a Setec power controller. I installed a PowerTech solar controller with user settings, (after throwing out the poor TopRay). I have the max voltage setting for her new AGM set at 14.6 volts and even when in a park and connected to 240 volt power, the Setec does the heavy lifting to 14.0 volts and then the solar power from roof puts in the topping voltage to 14.6 volts if sunny. Very little current is needed to do that. And that keeps battery right up there. If your new MPPT controller has a remote temperature sensor and it is fitted to the battery, the solar controller should compensate for this and slightly adjust the charge voltage and float voltages accordingly. Better to have the battery up near the top than down in the middle somewhere- a position that can never be restored once sulphation sets in on that part of the plates which were never charged fully. Tread your own path.