Yes, should be no drama getting replaced but no confidence in them now. Have another the same in shed to fit also but i just dunno now
Solar The Solar Panel Thread
- Thread starter cruza driver
- Start date
Hi @Moto Mech , sorry to hear that you are going through another drama with flexible solar panels. Certainly, if there is ANY pressure point or uneven fixing or movement causing flexing, the weakest point will give. This would normally be at one of the many soldered joints within the panel itself where solar cells are joined up in series or parallel. Any break then starts to intermittently conduct current and electrical arcing occurs. This will create a "burn" mark on covering of solar panel. This break in the many connections of your panel will reduce the output of that panel - how much depends on where it is in the panel circuit. As @Drover suggested, could it be that the flexible panel is unable to bend enough at that point and a pressure point became a break?? Also, you say that you have mounted the flexible panel/s on laserlite sheeting, but is there any air space between the back of the solar panel and the laserlite sheeting?? You may have an air gap between the backing sheet and the top of your van, but the real heat from the panel between rear of solar panel and the mounting sheet needs to be dissipated. The flexible solar panels get very very hot when in the sun generating power and any extra heat caused by partial short/bad connection will certainly get hot enough to cause a burn mark. This is unlikely to occur with the fixed glass panels as there is always an air gap to dissipate the heat build up. I know you are looking at the weight factor and this influenced your decision too.
The only other reason for this to happen has been mentioned before in depth - the non use of proper diodes (blocking or bypass) in parallel or series when some, or all of one panel is in shade. @mikerezny has given good explanations on this situations.
Not strike damage(does look like it) but vans kept in shed, panels have been on one onite trip.
I think the cracking is due to the panels hot spot under protective film.
There are 4thin strips under panel thats glued to laserlite sheet but 95% of panel is clear underneath. Hot spots are not above the strips
I think the cracking is due to the panels hot spot under protective film.
There are 4thin strips under panel thats glued to laserlite sheet but 95% of panel is clear underneath. Hot spots are not above the strips
Attachments
No glass top, just a clear flexible coating of some sort.
Im gunna run van over a weight bridge on way home from camping and if Im ok with weight, im ditching these flexible panels and going back to framed panels.
This is the 4th failure(single fitment and in series-which lasted 4yrs).
Framed ones on last van(after flexibles failed) worked awesomely and were cheap as.
Will be interesting to see if panels have any more hot spots, currently having 35+ degrees heat in Tassie and we’ve still got 4days camping left.
Definitely down on output, havent seen over 5a output where as I was seeing 8-9a when first installed.
Hello @Moto Mech again, are you just having a continuing run of bad luck or is there something that I am missing?? From what you have said, I understand that you are using just one panel (200W??) and running it through a PWM solar controller which is rated at 20A or more. There appears to be plenty of air space under the panel although non air movement would raise the temperature behind panel considerably. Is there anything you have done differently in the 4 previous setups? I understand your frustration and lack of confidence in flexible panels now. Even forgetting about the cost factor, it is the "waste of time" you have spent doing the same job each time. Noted that your panel output is down as I thought it would be. Feed back on your final solution would be really appreciated after all the input that has been provided by members to help you. Good luck.
my knowledge on solar panels is up there with quantum physics, Luna modules and Piano tuning
perhaps a hot spot, or my next suggestion was as @Drover suggested - a bubble in the glass, but its not glass
you sure there was not a nail sticking down on the rafter in your roof? just above where those marks are? that maybe the cat walked along that section ,,,,,,,,,,
My first 2 flexible panels cost me $1100(some of the first released) and lasted 4-5yrs on our old van, glued flat to the pop top with no airgap.
These failed(could see no damage or hot spots) after a month of 40+ deg weather in Qld. Van was parked up at a mates place while we stayed there.
Had another 100w flexible panel that I used as a portable one, it lasted 3yrs, again no visable damage, one day it worked, next day nothing.
And now this one. It sat outside at home for 3days in mid 30deg weather while we sorted stuff out for a week away. I got up to wash panel and thats when I found it.
Dont seem to be any links.
These failed(could see no damage or hot spots) after a month of 40+ deg weather in Qld. Van was parked up at a mates place while we stayed there.
Had another 100w flexible panel that I used as a portable one, it lasted 3yrs, again no visable damage, one day it worked, next day nothing.
And now this one. It sat outside at home for 3days in mid 30deg weather while we sorted stuff out for a week away. I got up to wash panel and thats when I found it.
Dont seem to be any links.
Thanks for the response. The ONLY link that is common is HEAT on thin flexible panels. The only other possibility is solar controller or hookup and that seems unlikely. Have no more suggestions - wild or not.!! Just should not happen with quality panels and reasonable care.
Since they have a flexy silicon like compound to cover them I wonder if tree sap or bird poo with it's corrosive nature has penetrated the outer layer and allowed moisture to do a job, I have seen it harden and crack similar surfaces as well as eat away some very hardy 2 pack jobs, not to mention etch glass.
Wild and way out of left field @Drover !! Possible, but on ALL four setups?? But water/moisture egress would cause a similar whitish burn mark under the silicon outer cover if outer cover was cracked or split or eaten through.
Kookaburra Poo is mighty stuff, all failures could be from a variety of instigators with the same result, a rock, heat stress, coating failure, bird poo, avocado tree sap to start it, with similar end result. Or just plain crap components and cooking from the inside out........an electronic forensic lookie needed....lol.
for something that is supposed to be in the sun and heat, to have heat failure.....................................?
the new ones that are cracked - hmmmm
the older ones........
my very very limited elekrikal knowledge would suggest checking the joints from panels to cable that feeds controller
and checking the controller (if mounted on panels)
the new ones that are cracked - hmmmm
the older ones........
my very very limited elekrikal knowledge would suggest checking the joints from panels to cable that feeds controller
and checking the controller (if mounted on panels)
So I need to supply a picture of the short circuit voltage and current from panel using multi meter.
Voltage I can sort no worries but how do I get/show current??
Voltage I can sort no worries but how do I get/show current??
buggered if I know
all I know is 240 bites baddly, so I dont touch it - thats what them mystical erektrikery people are for.........
I do know, that some solder joints (12V) in cars - clocks and such.... sometimes crack - making clock not work, or better yet, a Xmas clock (only works once a year) - tis usually a "dry" solder crack
re-do solder - and away you go with new fully working clock
all I know is 240 bites baddly, so I dont touch it - thats what them mystical erektrikery people are for.........
I do know, that some solder joints (12V) in cars - clocks and such.... sometimes crack - making clock not work, or better yet, a Xmas clock (only works once a year) - tis usually a "dry" solder crack
re-do solder - and away you go with new fully working clock
Hi,
I think you mean Open Circuit voltage and Short Circuit current.
You measure these, in sunlight, on the two wires coming off the panel without the solar regulator connected.
You will need to get hold of a multi-meter that can read DC volts (very common)
as well as DC current. Most reasonable multi-meters will read 10A DC.
If you are in doubt, post a photo of your multi-meter and I should be able to determine if it will measure DC current or not.
If you don't have one, it is probably a good time to consider getting one. They are very handy for 12V caravan work. Jaycar have quite a few digital types that are not expensive. I can look at the Jaycar website and make a recommendation if that would help.
OC Volts: easy, set the multi-meter to read DC volts, connect to the panel output, and read the voltage.
SC current: also easy, set the multi-meter to read 10A DC, connect to the panel and read the current.
The expected values will be printed on the specification sticker on the back of the panel.
I hope this helps.
cheers
Mike