Solar The Solar Panel Thread

Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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@bigcol , a 100w panel mounted on rack on roof, cable runs down along gutter and under bonnet to battery, controller that comes with panel should do a reasonable job it could be fitted under the bonnet way from any splash or direct heat and it should be okay, that would keep the cost down...otherwise just plug the yellow top into that little top up panel when you park up for awhile.........have seen set ups where the aux battery has an anderson plug on outside of vehicle, when vehicle is parked in shed for long periods a good quality battery charger is just plugged into the aux via the anderson and all is kept up to speed................anderson is fitted on drivers side so you see the lead and don't drive off while plugged in.
 

bigcol

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Nov 22, 2012
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I have a small pile of Andersons, yellow, black, green, blue, red even a couple of grey ones

just need to pick which colour to co-ordinate with
 
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Drover

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@Eddii the Ctek would be the better option but the onboard Setek would keep it all okay as well.................if you were going to have the van plugged into 240 and run the Ctek from inside the van you would really need to turn the battery switch off, so the battery is isolated from the Setek....................If your van battery is charged up when you park up, using the Setek would be easier as the Ctek really wouldn't give any great advantage over time.
 

Boots in Action

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Great read thanks @Boots in Action. Now when in storage mode do I plug the caravan so the Setec trickle charges our battery or just pug in a dedicated 12v charger? I have a Ctek MXS 5.0 it's suppose to charge GEL batteries as well. Which one would be better at charging?

IMHO @Eddii , once the van battery/ies (Gel )are fully charged), the easiest and simple way is to use the inbuilt Setec to maintain the battery. It saves connecting up the Ctec MXS5.0. The Ctek is much better and faster than the Setec if battery is low. Make sure it is set to Gel though. No doubt you have read the specs for the Setec and this is suitable for your Gel van batteries on float/maintain setting. Cheers
 
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Boots in Action

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@Eddii the Ctek would be the better option but the onboard Setek would keep it all okay as well.................if you were going to have the van plugged into 240 and run the Ctek from inside the van you would really need to turn the battery switch off, so the battery is isolated from the Setek....................If your van battery is charged up when you park up, using the Setek would be easier as the Ctek really wouldn't give any great advantage over time.

Hi @Drover , we are both in agreement on this issue at least. Regards
 
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Boots in Action

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@bigcol, I have an Optima yellow top for my start battery, which is a helicoil AGM.

I understood all of the yellow tops were AGM and not gel, so I did a bit of googling.

The Optima web site shows this:

“An OPTIMA battery is an AGM battery, not a gel battery or regular flooded battery. A deeply discharged OPTIMA battery (less than 10.5 volts) will not test or recharge properly if treated as a gel battery or regular flooded battery. A handheld electronic battery tester will most likely provide inaccurate results.”

Hi @Bellbirdweb , I too have just found the same info. Just typed in - agm vs gel type battery - and there it is as one of the frequently asked questions. So that clears up that issue - Optima batteries ARE AGM type and NOT GEL. So new ball game for @bigcol .
 

bigcol

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Nov 22, 2012
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I don't think @bigcol cares, its dead and done, roll on a replacement....



smiley-face-thumbs-up-cartoon-yTkeza64c.png
 

Axl

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Dec 23, 2014
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Great read thanks @Boots in Action. Now when in storage mode do I plug the caravan so the Setec trickle charges our battery or just pug in a dedicated 12v charger? I have a Ctek MXS 5.0 it's suppose to charge GEL batteries as well. Which one would be better at charging?

Just let the Setec handle it @Eddii, I run a 120amp AGM in my Expanda its nearly 5 years old and the Setec maintains it well. I also have a 25amp 7stage Projecta smart charger I brought and used on this battery when we had the camper trailer but since I put the AGM into the Expanda I have not had to use it.
 
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Eddii

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Great advice guys, Thanks:). Will use Setec then :encouragement:. I assume most members leave the van plugged in when parked for a while to keep batteries fully charged. I normally plug the van a week before we head off on a trip. Also good time to check make sure everything works :D.
 
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Drover

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If you are able its better to plug your van in when you get home and keep the battery fully charged, keeps the battery healthy.. My rig the solar keeps the battery sorted and I hardly ever use the 240.
 

Axl

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Great advice guys, Thanks:). Will use Setec then :encouragement:. I assume most members leave the van plugged in when parked for a while to keep batteries fully charged. I normally plug the van a week before we head off on a trip. Also good time to check make sure everything works :D.

@Eddii I'm a FI/FO worker so I am only home for two weeks of every month but I ensure I plug the van for a few days minimum whilst home each trip.
 
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mikerezny

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Sep 11, 2016
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Hi,
I plug our portable solar panel in for a couple of hours every weekend that we don't go away. Then plug into 240V for a few hours just before we head off.

I also have the Setec connected to 12V on our Falcon. This trickle charges the battery at 0.8A whilst we are driving.

cheers
Mike
 
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Boots in Action

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Just let the Setec handle it @Eddii, I run a 120amp AGM in my Expanda its nearly 5 years old and the Setec maintains it well.

Hi @Axl , I think this has come up before, but I believe that it needs reviewing again for those that want the max out of their AGM. Firstly, the Setec will only charge to a voltage of 14.1 volts. This is a very safe voltage for a Gel battery (and an AGM too!!). The Setec will "Maintain" the battery well. However, it is 0.6 volts short of OPTIMUM charge voltage for AGM batteries which need 14.7 volts to enable FULL capacity to be reached during "bulk" and "absorption" phases of charging. Float voltages are not so critical, and although a Gel battery is slightly lower, both are within the range of the Setec.
@Axl , if you think your AGM battery is fully charged, try connecting up your sophisticated multi stage smart charger and note just how long it takes to go through de-sulphation to soft, bulk and absorption to reach float/maintain. You will be surprised at the time it takes to get the extra missing charge capacity into battery from where the Setec has left it. If I use the Setec for "charging" , my LED volt meter in the van only ever shows about 12.6 volts after three or four hours OFF charge (no load). If I use the "smart charger", the battery voltage reading is ALWAYS 13.0 or 12.8 volts after more than 6 hours OFF charge. As I understand it, this means that more energy has been stored into the battery whilst charging. Incidentally, the battery in my Penguin is now nearly 5 years old and I have had it for the last 2.5 years and regularly utilize 38 ah daily when off the grid for up to 6 days. Fortunately, my solar panels and MPPT controller replace this amount and more most days. On return from outing, I place battery (120 ah AGM) on smart charger for a while until it shows "float", and then change over to the Setec to "maintain". Pedantic yes! A little more work - yes, but I believe well worth it!! Note battery SOC voltages for AGM battery below and optimum charging voltages. Different to flooded lead acid batteries.
 

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Miket351

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Sep 15, 2017
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Looking for some advice. I have a Starcraft 19ft Outback with 120 solar. I have a portable panel which I would like to hook up. Which option to choose

1) Hook directly to battery (pros easy to do, can use Anderson plug for other uses eg air compressor. Cons possibly not as efficient than plugging through existing controller, drifter can't measure exact usage

2) Hook directly to existing controller (pros possibly most efficient, drifter can monitor. Cons most difficult option for install

3) Has anyone connected portable panel through the flat pin plug and can you plug in directly or do you need to use the solar controller that comes with the panel (pros easiest install, charge state goes through drifter. cons possibly less efficient)

Options welcome please
 

Bellbirdweb

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Jan 24, 2014
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Looking for some advice. I have a Starcraft 19ft Outback with 120 solar. I have a portable panel which I would like to hook up. Which option to choose

1) Hook directly to battery (pros easy to do, can use Anderson plug for other uses eg air compressor. Cons possibly not as efficient than plugging through existing controller, drifter can't measure exact usage

2) Hook directly to existing controller (pros possibly most efficient, drifter can monitor. Cons most difficult option for install

3) Has anyone connected portable panel through the flat pin plug and can you plug in directly or do you need to use the solar controller that comes with the panel (pros easiest install, charge state goes through drifter. cons possibly less efficient)

Options welcome please
Welcome to the forum @Miket351

The most common way of connecting is using an Anderson plug to the battery with its own controller.

You can still do it this way and monitor using the drifter by running the negative to the shunt instead of directly to the battery.
 
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Miket351

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Welcome to the forum @Miket351

The most common way of connecting is using an Anderson plug to the battery with its own controller.

You can still do it this way and monitor using the drifter by running the negative to the shunt instead of directly to the battery.
Welcome to the forum @Miket351

The most common way of connecting is using an Anderson plug to the battery with its own controller.

You can still do it this way and monitor using the drifter by running the negative to the shunt instead of directly to the battery.[/QUOT
Welcome to the forum @Miket351

The most common way of connecting is using an Anderson plug to the battery with its own controller.

You can still do it this way and monitor using the drifter by running the negative to the shunt instead of directly to the battery.

Ok thanks. Where would the shunt be located on a Starcraft 19ft

Cheers
 

Boots in Action

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Welcome to the forum @Miket351

The most common way of connecting is using an Anderson plug to the battery with its own controller.


You can still do it this way and monitor using the drifter by running the negative to the shunt instead of directly to the battery.

Hello @Miket351,
Welcome again to this forum. There are lots of different ideas on what you are saying. Some are satisfactory, but not really as efficient, whilst some are the optimum but need more work and adjustments and sometimes you may lose your flexibility. No doubt you have read a lot of the postings on this thread and so it depends on what you see as most important. To answer your questions in order (as I see it):
1. @Bellbirdweb is quite correct. That is the easy way and simple, AND you still have the flexibility of using the portable panel for other purposes - charge tug battery etc.. However, that means that there is likely to be some conflict between the different controllers in controlling charge voltage and float level. @mikerezny put out a excellent explanation in an earlier post of what "could" happen but as yet, I have NOT been able to test/prove out this method fully. Still seeking really professional technical advice on this. I do know that connecting two controllers in series or parallel is far from ideal although some members on this forum have found it okay??
2. Confirmed that connecting portable panel to existing controller (bypassing panel controller) is the most efficient and your Drifter panel will provide proper readouts. But not all that difficult. With an Anderson plug at side of van, connect the appropriate wires from portable panel (bypass the panel controller) in parallel (onto the same terminals on Drifter) Pos on POS and NEG on NEG. Both panels would need to have bypass diodes for proper operation if one set of panels is shaded. Later if you are looking for more power from your panels, a step up to a MPPT controller and connecting both panels in SERIES is the ultimate.
3. Definitely NOT RECOMMENDED. Flat pin plug is for use from your tug to SETEC and not the way to go at all. In all cases, a solar controller must be used to control solar panel current and charging to your battery. Failure to do so WILL end up damaging your battery/ies as there is NO control on panel voltage (usually about 18 to 20 volts) and no control on charging even if battery is fully charged. 12 volt batteries do not like 18 or so volts going into them for long periods especially when fully charged. They get very hot and bothered about it!!!!
Hope this answers all your questions and gives you all the options. Good luck whichever way you go. Cheers