Solar The Solar Panel Thread

Sounds like a panel or controller failure
Get a multi meter out and disconnect the panels from the controller and measure the Open circuit voltage
It should be around 20v give or take a couple if it is then probably your controller is stuffed.
if it is not up there then you may need to measure each panel as if one of them is totally stuffed it wil draw power from the good one and therefore dropping the total output of the two.

If you are in need of a hand checking this I can pop over as i'm in Duncraig but it will need to be today as we are heading to Esperance tomorrow

Have a reading of 1.4V coming into the controller from the Pannels.

Given that the Pannels should be direct wired to the Controller, what's stopping me from running a new cable from the solar panel junction box to the controller? I'm figuring that the existing cable is faulty. Any thoughts?
 

ShaneT

Well-Known Member
Jul 24, 2014
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Disconnect the panels and reg from the wiring and do a continuity check between the 2 wires (+ and -), sounds like they have put a screw through your wiring. or undo all the screws in the wall above where the reg is mounted until you get full power and then just leave that screw out till you can get it replaced under warranty. I would almost put money on it that's the problem....you wouldn't be the first.
 

MDS69

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Jul 6, 2014
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If you do disconnect your panels remember to cover them with a tarp or similar to shield them from the sun before reconnecting your load.
 
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spiderpig

Active Member
Nov 7, 2015
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Thinking of fitting a solar panel to the roof of our van soon. Im thinking i will hard mount one there for now, see how it goes and if i end up needing more solar, wire up an anderson on the outside and have a foldable panel aswell i can move around and follow the sun.
Anyone have much experience with the ebay ones? Im looking for something reliable and reasonable quality, prob in the 120 to 150w range i think for the roof mounted one for starters.

Sounds like a seperate reg mounted close to the vans battery is the go?
 

Dobbie

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Jun 18, 2014
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Bit deals...from memory...had reasonable quality panels. We bought a 120 years ago (8?) and it's still going well.
We also bought one from a very accredited 12v shop and it died very early.

We've found that it's best to buy the panel and regulator separately so you get the regulator you want. MPPt is the preferred choice and better as close to battery as possible. We just connect our portable panel to an Anderson plug on draw bar, and the reg has Anderson plugs both ends so it's easy to monitor what's happening via an amp volt meter. Also, it's easier to protect the controller from rain, sand etc if it's not on the back of the panel.

The usual recommendation for appropriate wiring applies but keep in mind a solar panel is a bit unwieldy to transport and has to be protected from being broken in transit. It's easier to pack two folding panels in a padded bag. Ours just travels between two pieces of foam, horizontally but with nothing on top of it.
 
Thanks to all for the replies and suggestions.

Weather was too good not to be fishing, so only repaired today. Routed a replacement cable, via 2 compression glands and some Sitka and hey presto, my factory fitted solar system now works perfectly.

Will get the battery load tested once home.

Headed to Walpole in WA tomorrow morning.

Thanks again to all for your time
 

Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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Thats great news, experience has shown that if anything was fitted by Jayco then thats more than likely where the problem will be..
 
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bigcol

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Nov 22, 2012
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Headed to Walpole in WA tomorrow morning.

from which direction..........?
from Albany, just outside denmark, is Batholomews Meadery - nice Honey Icecream, lovely wines, and their Mead.......... YUMMO

whilst in Walpole, there is a shop, near one of the restaurants (cannot remember off hand the name) (but it was white stairs and balcony)
- used to do smorgasbord lunches lots of nice Asian dishes - again, YUMMO

there is an "up market" Cafe / restaurant (blue woodwork & Stairs) over priced, under sized meals
if early in the morning, get to the Bakery, before all the good stuff goes

the terrorist (tourist) info building at Walpole is great, lots of friendly staff, massive carpark for cars with Vans etc
lots of trees, so you can have a picnic while browsing
 
Thats great news, experience has shown that if anything was fitted by Jayco then thats more than likely where the problem will be..
This is true, but, in the assemblers defense, it's hard to know the exact location of every wire.

In Jaycos QC defense ............. Nope have nothing.........shame, shame , shame!
 
from which direction..........?
from Albany, just outside denmark, is Batholomews Meadery - nice Honey Icecream, lovely wines, and their Mead.......... YUMMO

whilst in Walpole, there is a shop, near one of the restaurants (cannot remember off hand the name) (but it was white stairs and balcony)
- used to do smorgasbord lunches lots of nice Asian dishes - again, YUMMO

there is an "up market" Cafe / restaurant (blue woodwork & Stairs) over priced, under sized meals
if early in the morning, get to the Bakery, before all the good stuff goes

the terrorist (tourist) info building at Walpole is great, lots of friendly staff, massive carpark for cars with Vans etc
lots of trees, so you can have a picnic while browsing
Thanks for the heads up! Looking forwards to some mead! Will check out to see if the restaurants still are going
 
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Great thread, my question is for those that don't have wiring in the roof already for solar, where did you run the wiring for it? Thanks Andrew

I'm sorry that I didn't take pictures but can post once I find a ladder.

Please bare in mind my van isn't a soft top, if you need some ideas for a soft top, I can post separately.

The location of the Pannel Controler depends greatly on what model and year a van is. Mine was above the fridge.

If I was to install post delivery, that's where I would install the controller and run the wiring from the battery to the Pannels.

Above my fridge is a through roof vent, I removed this and as spiderpig mentioned, used a cable compression gland to run the cable though the vent side wall. I used stickaflex to reselal the vent back into position. Cable clamps were used in conjunction with stickaflex to secure the cable to the roof to the junction box where both my Pannels are connected. Placed another cable compression gland here, but Jayco had just used loads of Stickaflex on their Junction box penetration.

Why I would run a post install the same way, is that a fridge can be easily removed and behind it is loads of space to run wires. If you were to fit your controller in a location adjacent to the fridge space, you could then fit another compression gland through the floor, with stickaflex, run your cable along the chassis to the battery space, then up through the floor as before, to the battery. This would leave the only visible cable on the roof itself.

Hope this helps Andrew.
 

andrew nelson

Member
Jan 6, 2015
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Glenden
Thats a good question, i just bought a 150w panel and one of these mounting kits,

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172052475924?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Use the cable entry gland to send the cables into the roof cavity then from there im not sure yet :)

Does this work with the soft roof? is there somewhere that I should try and stay away from in anyones experience? Thanks for the link for those mounts. Im on nightshift and ebay is always a friend :)
 

andrew nelson

Member
Jan 6, 2015
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44
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Glenden
I'm sorry that I didn't take pictures but can post once I find a ladder.

Please bare in mind my van isn't a soft top, if you need some ideas for a soft top, I can post separately.

The location of the Pannel Controler depends greatly on what model and year a van is. Mine was above the fridge.

If I was to install post delivery, that's where I would install the controller and run the wiring from the battery to the Pannels.

Above my fridge is a through roof vent, I removed this and as spiderpig mentioned, used a cable compression gland to run the cable though the vent side wall. I used stickaflex to reselal the vent back into position. Cable clamps were used in conjunction with stickaflex to secure the cable to the roof to the junction box where both my Pannels are connected. Placed another cable compression gland here, but Jayco had just used loads of Stickaflex on their Junction box penetration.

Why I would run a post install the same way, is that a fridge can be easily removed and behind it is loads of space to run wires. If you were to fit your controller in a location adjacent to the fridge space, you could then fit another compression gland through the floor, with stickaflex, run your cable along the chassis to the battery space, then up through the floor as before, to the battery. This would leave the only visible cable on the roof itself.

Hope this helps Andrew.

I will have a better look in the morning, but you have me thinking that I could probably run some electrical conduit of the roof and into the fridge vent to save me drilling holes in the roof. I was going to mount the panel up high near the fridge area somewhere anyway. I love pictures and if you get a chance that would be great?
 

Axl

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Dec 23, 2014
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I will have a better look in the morning, but you have me thinking that I could probably run some electrical conduit of the roof and into the fridge vent to save me drilling holes in the roof. I was going to mount the panel up high near the fridge area somewhere anyway. I love pictures and if you get a chance that would be great?


Why do you want to mount them on the roof if you don't need too? a good set of portable panels will out do a set of mounted panels all the time.

  • Mounted panels are flat on the roof not optimum for solar panels that need to be near 30deg to work at their best
  • You can move the portables to follow the sun as and they are already near 30 deg
  • You can put the van in the shade the portables can be out in the sun with the use of extensions leads with Anderson plugs. You will get a voltage drop but if you use heavier cable for the extensions all is ok. I have 2 X 5m extensions all plug and play 6mmsq, the voltage drop over this length is around 1v but I rarely need to use 10m length it is there just encase, 5m normally does the job
  • Even with a 1v drop you should still get 13v or more from a good set of portable panels, which will keep you going but after a few days you would need to move so as you can get the full potential out of your system.
 
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andrew nelson

Member
Jan 6, 2015
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Glenden
Why do you want to mount them on the roof if you don't need too? a good set of portable panels will out do a set of mounted panels all the time.

  • Mounted panels are flat on the roof not optimum for solar panels that need to be near 30deg to work at their best
  • You can move the portables to follow the sun as and they are already near 30 deg
  • You can put the van in the shade the portables can be out in the sun with the use of extensions leads with Anderson plugs. You will get a voltage drop but if you use heavier cable for the extensions all is ok. I have 2 X 5m extensions all plug and play 6mmsq, the voltage drop over this length is around 1v but I rarely need to use 10m length it is there just encase, 5m normally does the job
  • Even with a 1v drop you should still get 13v or more from a good set of portable panels, which will keep you going but after a few days you would need to move so as you can get the full potential out of your system.
Totally agree with all your points. I guess the only point that I had against that was that I am trying to minimise the amount of stuff that I have to set up and move around in the van or in the front box when I finally get there. I am still heavily leaning to the portable as well for the fact that I can use them with the old 4by when I take the boys out for a camp.

To many options are a good and a bad thing :)
 
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