The Gray's - 16'49'1 Outback Expanda
- Thread starter zerosecta
- Start date
Great mod mate, certainly worth powder coating later.
One question, why not use original mounting.? Just to get the bar higher, or make it easier to fit.
I'm also interested in how you ran the wiring to move your battery and other switches.
Cheers
One question, why not use original mounting.? Just to get the bar higher, or make it easier to fit.
I'm also interested in how you ran the wiring to move your battery and other switches.
Cheers
Figured putting it above the original mounting will actually give it a stronger base to rest on but besides that simply the extra height is really the main reason.
Far as electrics go I am doing a little work on this during the next couple of days so I'll post some details after.
Cheers
Thanks for the positive comments folks, glad you like it. Still need to give it a test though 
. Planning on getting the gopro mounted onto the back of the van to get some footage of it on the dirt road to see how much flex/movement there is of the spare wheel, not to much I hope, feels pretty solid when I give it bit of a push pull, but there is definitely some flex in it though.
. Planning on getting the gopro mounted onto the back of the van to get some footage of it on the dirt road to see how much flex/movement there is of the spare wheel, not to much I hope, feels pretty solid when I give it bit of a push pull, but there is definitely some flex in it though.
Thank Mate, well I could use some extra pocket money. Perhaps I'll have a knock a few up
Maaaaaan, have you been busy. I have not logged in for a few weeks, and missed all the excitement. It looks absolutely fantastic. As far as powder coating goes, i'll get done for you. The local fence bloke does very neat first quality work.
I need to get a lot of info from you mate. My van is delayed. Won't get it until the 9th of July.
Only then can i pick your brain. Keep it going, it will be the best van here by far. Well done.
I need to get a lot of info from you mate. My van is delayed. Won't get it until the 9th of July.
Only then can i pick your brain. Keep it going, it will be the best van here by far. Well done.
Got through about 95% the Electrics rework...
Just waiting on a few Relays and a few switches to arrive and I'll be able to finish\tidy it off and I'll try to create a diagram as well so that you can see exactly what Ive done.
Jist of it though is as follows - Two new switches to be placed up at the sink, next to where i moved the water Pump and heater switch - One will be a Master On\Off the other will be to switch between two Charging Configs. Switch up - 240v and Alternator. Switch Down - Solar Both these switchs will be the same 10Amp switchs that Jayco use to match the Water Pump switch - So they will drive a few relays in the Electrical compartment that will do the real work.
Xantrex TrueCharge2 40Amp - Replaces the Jayco SETEC Unit
Redarc BCDC 1240 for Solar and Alternator Charging
Blue sea Systems Dual Pole Bus Bar - All the Chargers and Batteries connect to this.
Blue Sea Systems Dual Pole 12 Position Fused Distribution Block for all the accessories.
Here is a pick of how it curreltly looks - Little unhappy with the layout so may change it up a bit so that its a little tidier
Just waiting on a few Relays and a few switches to arrive and I'll be able to finish\tidy it off and I'll try to create a diagram as well so that you can see exactly what Ive done.
Jist of it though is as follows - Two new switches to be placed up at the sink, next to where i moved the water Pump and heater switch - One will be a Master On\Off the other will be to switch between two Charging Configs. Switch up - 240v and Alternator. Switch Down - Solar Both these switchs will be the same 10Amp switchs that Jayco use to match the Water Pump switch - So they will drive a few relays in the Electrical compartment that will do the real work.
Xantrex TrueCharge2 40Amp - Replaces the Jayco SETEC Unit
Redarc BCDC 1240 for Solar and Alternator Charging
Blue sea Systems Dual Pole Bus Bar - All the Chargers and Batteries connect to this.
Blue Sea Systems Dual Pole 12 Position Fused Distribution Block for all the accessories.
Here is a pick of how it curreltly looks - Little unhappy with the layout so may change it up a bit so that its a little tidier
Uprayed setecs ? I didn't realized they had changed. The one I've removed from my 2012 expanda is the ST20. And it's still the same as the one that was in my 2010 swan. Output of 20amp max for powering all accessories and only 10amp max output for charging batteries.
They recommend at the very least that your chargers output should be 10% of your batteries ah rating, so with 105AH you are on target. I've got 240ah so the little 10amp setec was'nt going to cut it.
They recommend at the very least that your chargers output should be 10% of your batteries ah rating, so with 105AH you are on target. I've got 240ah so the little 10amp setec was'nt going to cut it.
I've got two 105ahs but Iam sure ours is a setec is a ST35, I'll check again later. I've put the Projecta on it a couple of times but it just switchs to float or Maintance so I have presumed the Setec is doing its job.
Edit: pretty sure it's this ST 35ii one Zero
http://www.coastrv.com.au/_pdf/products/COA_Section_04.pdf
Says 35amp, my electrical skills are pretty basic but as above I have seen anything to make me doubt it yet.
Edit: pretty sure it's this ST 35ii one Zero
http://www.coastrv.com.au/_pdf/products/COA_Section_04.pdf
Says 35amp, my electrical skills are pretty basic but as above I have seen anything to make me doubt it yet.
Hi Jim, Yip It does lead you to believe that you will in fact get 20Amp (ST20 II) or 35Amp (ST35 II) to your accessories as well as your battery for charging -
- HOWEVER :-( Take a look at the back of your SETEC unit and I am almost 100% certain you will find two things:
1. You have an ST20 Series II v.04 (if 2011 or later van)
2. Read the specs on the same sticker and you will find 2 lines that says - and I quote -
"OUTPUT 13.8Vdc 20A
(includes battery charge current 10A max)"
If you do in fact have a ST35 II then the only difference with the two lines above in blue is that instead of the 20A there will be a 35A
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news mate - hope its helps you though in giving you some more motivation to get that IC2500 that you spent your hard earned on installed
- HOWEVER :-( Take a look at the back of your SETEC unit and I am almost 100% certain you will find two things:
1. You have an ST20 Series II v.04 (if 2011 or later van)
2. Read the specs on the same sticker and you will find 2 lines that says - and I quote -
"OUTPUT 13.8Vdc 20A
(includes battery charge current 10A max)"
If you do in fact have a ST35 II then the only difference with the two lines above in blue is that instead of the 20A there will be a 35A
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news mate - hope its helps you though in giving you some more motivation to get that IC2500 that you spent your hard earned on installed
Thanks zero I will check it out and advise. So the Setec at 20amps is not enough? I don't mind either way with the Projecta I got it cheap and it's the remote head unit so ideally suited to the van, but it's been doing a great job on the boat and car in the garage so.If I use it I will have to go buy another one!
When I did try the Projecta I just unplugged the 12v lead from the setec but then I had no 12 volt to van. Is there a way to leave the Setec in place but not have it charging the battery's? I think Teabag did it on Myswag but he never explained exactly how.
When I did try the Projecta I just unplugged the 12v lead from the setec but then I had no 12 volt to van. Is there a way to leave the Setec in place but not have it charging the battery's? I think Teabag did it on Myswag but he never explained exactly how.
No Worries Jim,
There is no harm in leaving it the way it is and at the end of the day if you don't do extended free camping with very short periods in between where you need to charge the batteries from 240V it doesn't really matter,, It just means that by using a 10A Charger it will take very long time to fully recharge.
If you wanted to leave the SETEC in to power accessories but not charge the batteries because you will install the IC2500 then it is simply a matter of doing the following.
Connect IC2500 directly to batteries - Positive on one battery and negative of the other.
- When connected to 240V make sure that your battery switch is turned Off - This will let your IC2500 Charge your batteries and your SETEC will act as a 12v Transformer providing 12v power to your toys.
- When not connected to 240V and Camping, turn on the battery switch - now your setec unit will act as a pass through and provide 12v from the batteries to the toys.
- When driving you can also leave the switch on and the setec unit will act as a dcdc charger and provided some charging to the batteries - To fully recharge the batteries (210AH) using this setec in this way though you would probably have to drive interstate
Hope this helps
There is no harm in leaving it the way it is and at the end of the day if you don't do extended free camping with very short periods in between where you need to charge the batteries from 240V it doesn't really matter,, It just means that by using a 10A Charger it will take very long time to fully recharge.
If you wanted to leave the SETEC in to power accessories but not charge the batteries because you will install the IC2500 then it is simply a matter of doing the following.
Connect IC2500 directly to batteries - Positive on one battery and negative of the other.
- When connected to 240V make sure that your battery switch is turned Off - This will let your IC2500 Charge your batteries and your SETEC will act as a 12v Transformer providing 12v power to your toys.
- When not connected to 240V and Camping, turn on the battery switch - now your setec unit will act as a pass through and provide 12v from the batteries to the toys.
- When driving you can also leave the switch on and the setec unit will act as a dcdc charger and provided some charging to the batteries - To fully recharge the batteries (210AH) using this setec in this way though you would probably have to drive interstate
Hope this helps
Excellent thanks Zero i might set that up. I like the IC2500 for several reasons. It gives you a read out of whats going on and you have a back up charger for the tug if you get stuck.
Not that i will not follow your instructions, but for my own understanding. if the battery switch is left on while conected to 240v, both the setec and projecta will charge battery and no sparks will fly? Any smarts in the Projecta may get confused with the Setec Voltage coming in?
Also my car batteries were not hooked to the Setec for 12V charging, i got the Jayco supplied anderson plug conected directly to the batteries (fused) i have since replaced the 6mm wire with 6 B&S and the batteries seem to get a great kick from the tug.
Not that i will not follow your instructions, but for my own understanding. if the battery switch is left on while conected to 240v, both the setec and projecta will charge battery and no sparks will fly? Any smarts in the Projecta may get confused with the Setec Voltage coming in?
Also my car batteries were not hooked to the Setec for 12V charging, i got the Jayco supplied anderson plug conected directly to the batteries (fused) i have since replaced the 6mm wire with 6 B&S and the batteries seem to get a great kick from the tug.