I hope they wire them in properly so one can see the whole picture, not like Jayco did with the standard Top Ray TPS 1230 PWM type. All it did was show you what the voltage of battery was and input current. Output current was not able to be shown because the load was never connected through the solar controller. If Jayco just connects up the MPPT controller to just the battery and solar panels, you are not that much better off other than more efficient conversion of solar input.
Hi @Boots in Action,
Jayco aren't using like for like products though.
As mentioned above, it is a physical part of the battery management system.
Thanks @mikerezny and @Brente1982 for bringing me up to date on the latest BMS systems. Technology has moved on and it appears that Jayco are meeting these new demands for better technology too. All that matters now is to educate owners on how to use and understand what the readings mean. Unfortunately, all that good gear could be wasted on some, just as all the electronic stuff on the latest cars is disregarded.As mentioned above, it is a physical part of the battery management system.
Projects have also just developed a stand alone shunt to use with the power management systems that plugs into one of the ports in the unit.
This allows you to connect an inverter, or an external solar panel via the shunt, and have the input/output show accurately, along with accurate SOC on the LCD display
500Amp Shunt With Cables
www.projecta.com.au
Thanks for the links Mike @mikerezny . Just had a quick look at the facilities and functions of these you beaut units. Rather grand if I may say so. They seem to have covered all of the deficiencies of previous and existing units that have been discussed on this forum, from battery temperature compensation when charging, different battery types and voltages, even voltage losses in cabling, plus a section on the need for a DC-DC charger for tugs with "smart" alternators. With one of these units, you need very little extra equipment. Very complex and certainly a lot of info for those not electrically inclined to absorb. The ONLY issue I saw was that the LVD was set by default at the very low (and IMHO) and useless setting of 10.5 volts. I did not see anywhere that this setting was user-adjustable. Pity. Also, if one was to have this great bit of kit and was going to be doing a fair bit of off grid work, it would be worthwhile to pay the extra and get the MPPT controller rather than accept the PWM contoller as standard. What a HUGE step up from the Setec ST20 Series III that I have at present!!!!!
Hi @Drover,
I know what your meaning but my vehicles back in the 70's serviced every 10,000kms just like now and the only thing not needing changing nowadays is points, electronic ignition replacing them back in late 70's while now its mostly injection but plugs still need swapping out, all the rest of the things still get changed around and break much the same as the old engines, with the added extras being ECU, TCM, BCM's and a myriad of sensors now causing problems and often stopping you dead in the water.............. I actually find it easier to maintain the things in working order now, often breakdown being a dodgy sensor, cleaning or replacing is not a biggy while the various control modules are plug an play, many tend to be overawed by it all but its really quite easy, annoying at times though......
Fair comment, but that is "progress" . Or is it??? More and more complexities mean less people able to rectify problem when something goes wrong. This is particularly relevant when you are outside major centres. Like modern motor vehicles- if the engine doesn't run, you lose the power steering and power assist with the brakes amongst other things. A whole new ball game then!
...... its works so thats good......... its 1 mt wide and about 1800 long ... big hooah....total cost $40.
tradies.sikaretail.com.au
Take the coating off the alum with a flapper or sand paper, and clean both surfaces with your choices of non residue cleanerOk, so I have my 4x 175w Victron panels. Have cut 50x25mm angles aluminium to 300mm lengths and have 2 per side. I have Sikaflex 252 to use for adhesive. What I am wanting to do is prepare and clean the aluminium and van roof surface to mount them. Short of purchasing the ridiculously expensive Sika cleaning and priming products, what have people used to prepare aluminium? Should I clean, rough up/etch the surface and then clean again? Should I rough up the roof surface in the spots where the mounts will be placed?
I do not intend to screw or rivet the panels to the brand new roof.
I will follow the Sikaflex advice of applying a spacer on the bottom of the mounts so as to leave the applicable adhesive gap that they recommend. In this instance I will be using 5mm sticky dots.
View attachment 67590How to install solar panel on the roof of caravan |Sika Australia
Simple and easy step-by-step process of installing solar panels to the roof of your caravan. Products to use: Sikaflex 252, Sika Primer 206 G+ P and Sika Aktivator
Like a 50:50 isoproply mix?
..... all I did was rub the alloy bracket with a bit of sandpaper and wipe the colorbond roof and bracket with some metho, then a generous amount of some Sika Marine Adhesive and whacko on it went I did whack in a tek on each bracket just to be sure though, just enough to squeeze a bit out the edge to give a uniform amount under bracket........ hasn't blown off yet...... if its a colorbond panel be wary of what you try to clean it with.
Not sure about %, any IPA cleaner should be fine. Ive never primed ally, so long as the poyurethane is UV rated, for external and fibreglass and ally. I did screw mine on.
