Solar The Solar Panel Thread

[davemc]

thanks mate, I want to weight mine loaded first I worry we might need another plate to take it up to axle load of 2900.

 

[Bellbirdweb]

thanks mate, I want to weight mine loaded first I worry we might need another plate to take it up to axle load of 2900.

As a rule a lead acid battery will be around 30kg give or take

 

[navmatt]

Next Question...................................Roof top panel in position, how can you tell what it's capacity is without pulling it off and hoping there is a label underneath ??????????

Not sure if you already figured it out, for mine I had enough room under the panel to slip my phone under. Started recording and pushed it around a bit at each end till I found the label. I ordered mine with a 150w panel instead of the 130w, was making sure they didn't pull a swifty

 

[Drover]

I've started to try and figure it out a couple of times but don't get the same answer, I do like you idea @navmatt , sure beats a calculator.

 

[Dean Anderson]

Smart chargers are actually pretty smart evidently. I set my CTEK in the car to 100A/Hr size battery and it has told me that my battery is at 105%...Surprise surprise I looked up my battery and its actually 105A/Hr...

200 Watt of solar on the roof and running the Engel I'm charged by 10:30 in the sun. That's by testing it by putting a hot half carton of beer (35C)in at night before bed.

 

[Dean Anderson]

Couple pics of my solar beer fridge setup so far.

 

[Dobbie]

You've had a lot of fun doing this.

I'm assuming.....the solar charges the second battery on the car, the DC to DC charger works as solar regulator, and then keeps the Engel chugging.

Lots $$$$ to keep the beer cold....but, if it floats your boat and it works as designed, good on you.

 

[navmatt]

After a bit of advice, found my dual battery system wanting with my CTek dual running my waeco 95 in the tub and the fridge in the van. After a 6 hour drive my battery had not charged at all. With the waeco drawing 7 to 8 amp and the van fridge maybe 15? leaves nothing left to charge the battery while under way. So I picked up a smartpass the other day to sort it out, now I have set it up that the service battery is on the "critical" output and the van fridge running on the non critical. The way I read it was the service battery will get charged first if down to far, and the non critical will get power once it gets up to fair state of charge which should only be 10 mins or so?. I had thought of having nothing on the non critical side and just run everything off the battery, but the way I think it reads is this way you get the most charge of up to 80 amps between both??

 

[Dean Anderson]

I put an extra VSR in mine so I don't actually use the Ctek for the van only the car. One 3B&S to the Ctek and this piggybacked through the VSR and another fuse to the van to run the Waeco (in the van) and van fridge. If I have too much voltage drop the van will be cut off and the car prioritised until the AGM battery in the car is charged. Everything is up in the air at the moment....first run with the van on in 8 days. I put separate runs of dual 6B&S to the van fridge and a separate Anderson plug for the Waeco in the van so hopefully all goes as expected. If not I've got an alternator diode to put in to increase the alternator output by 0.6V and see if that works.

I wasn't sure if the non-critical only put out for appliances (lower voltages that wouldn't run the Waeco due to voltage drop further down the line). My Waeco can also send error codes when the voltage is low...I wanted the van fridge isolated from the AGM in the car as well.

In your case I would be putting a VSR after the Smartpass before the van....

But putting a draw on the battery may muck up the charging stages of the battery

The difficult thing is I think most of us are playing with stuff we don't 100% understand. I think I'll connect a couple volt meters to mine for the next trip so I can see the actual voltages when its working or worse case scenario not working.

 

[navmatt]

I put an extra VSR in mine so I don't actually use the Ctek for the van only the car. One 3B&S to the Ctek and this piggybacked through the VSR and another fuse to the van to run the Waeco (in the van) and van fridge. If I have too much voltage drop the van will be cut off and the car prioritised until the AGM battery in the car is charged. Everything is up in the air at the moment....first run with the van on in 8 days. I put separate runs of dual 6B&S to the van fridge and a separate Anderson plug for the Waeco in the van so hopefully all goes as expected. If not I've got an alternator diode to put in to increase the alternator output by 0.6V and see if that works.

I wasn't sure if the non-critical only put out for appliances (lower voltages that wouldn't run the Waeco due to voltage drop further down the line). My Waeco can also send error codes when the voltage is low...I wanted the van fridge isolated from the AGM in the car as well.

In your case I would be putting a VSR after the Smartpass before the van....

But putting a draw on the battery may muck up the charging stages of the battery

The difficult thing is I think most of us are playing with stuff we don't 100% understand. I think I'll connect a couple volt meters to mine for the next trip so I can see the actual voltages when its working or worse case scenario not working.

The install guide is pretty vague, I just read somewhere off google the "non critical" output is only 10 amp but cant find that anywhere in the book, is this enough to run the vans fridge? 150 L dometic?. I was running the waeco in my tub next to the battery and the van fridge all from this battery. It all worked ok before I got the larger waeco, so I thought spiltting the outputs would put less load on the battery. Thus far I haven't upgraded the power cable to the van fridge just using the existing supplied wiring. In saying that I haven't had an issue with the fridge in the van warming up to a point of worrying about it to much yet but it is on my list. Im going on a two week trip form nth qld to south of brassy and will see if the current set up works, easy to change from the non to the critical outputs. I do have a redarc vsr I took off the ute in the engine bay which I might put into play where you suggested if I find troubles. Going to hook up the van on my next days off and run a multimeter around and see what it tells me with this set up

Cheers

 

[Dean Anderson]

Page 22 says high current consumers greater than 80 amp should be connected directly to the starter battery, so that shouldn't be the problem. If you connect the caravan fridge to critical its direct to the battery and a really bad idea, it'll drain your battery to zero cause there is no low voltage cut-out. I put the extra VSR on the starter battery side of the CTEK, I didn't want the caravan fridge draining anything, I only wanted it to run when the engines running. Decent size cabling is critical, the supplied van cabling is pretty much useless due to voltage drop, What Toyota put in the car for wiring was useless as well. Try to get the van fridge and waeco running at the same time when you test the voltages.

CTEK Cut-in 13.1V, Narva VSR Cut-in 13.3V

 

[coneheadpaul]

Hi there guys ...i have bought a house 195 watt solar panel from a womans spark in perth 75 bucks. ..speak to Vladimir there.
Ive connected through the water service panel as my agm battery in there under dinette bench.
Mounted my epever tracer and wifi box in there and can Monitor and control via android app..cost of both on ebay 130ish Bucks (20amp model).
I can stand the panel remotely and have anderson connection with water n dust cover in water panel....i can pull the lead out when filling tanks etc ...would only use mains water on a poweredsite being my logic..whereupon would not take the panel.
The epever tracer is true mppt....I got a lot of info from a fellow pom on youtube called adam welch...if you thinking about solar look him up...he reviews lots of solar gear...learnt a lot there.
Prior to this blew 200 bucks on some maxray folding solar panels 200watt
.alleged mppt controller etc...utter utter crap imho do not go there..controller voltage all over the place and going nowhere near my agm battery! As for panels heavy as $#@£ and hooked up to the tracer most i got was 120w on a glorious petth perth day pointing right at sun and wired them in series. .which helped a little.
100v max input on tracer. .

Cheers all cp

 

[Capt. Gadget]

Hi Hornet here is a couple of pics of what I did
Through the RoofView attachment 9272

Down the wall in the pocketView attachment 9271

Through the over head cupboardView attachment 9273

and into the cupboard above the HWS View attachment 9274

@coneheadpaul i ended up swapping out the controller for Ctek 250s dual and has been heaps better than the one that was in this old post

 

[coneheadpaul]

Hi capt gadget

I did do some research on the d250 s and was chasing one on ebay...but outbid
Very good unit and with the smartpass really opens up the permutations.
I have to say for me...as i only have one battery with the van in garage and panel outside... it was just too expensive. And with the wifi box ..can have all the gubbins hidden and monitor/ control via phone

Search out adam welch on you tube anyway. .some good gen there.

Cheers cp

 

[coneheadpaul]

Oh yeah ... I'm a bit tight too...ctek gear is dear...I'm a poet? But quality.
Shame the setec voltage on the van doesn't get high enough for my xs power 130ah agm.

But loving the epever tracer a series
..for the money ..good vfm i reckon.

with everything on in van ex fridge...led lights pumps etc..draws 170 watts which my 195 watt panel did indefinitely. .....battery never dropped off float charge...well please...voltage never budged.

Ps good post on here ref led lights...somewhere....enjoyed it.
Cheers cp

 

[Brenton]

Installed 2 x 200 watt panels on the roof yesterday and a 30a MPPT regulator. works a treat. Panels rated to about 12 amps each so if i can got 20 amps combined I will be a happy lad.

panels are off eBay they're from this seller, i have used his gear before and its very good. all of the below is connected via 38amp rated 6mm tycab 12v cable.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200-Watt...538743?hash=item4d3483dcb7:g:-6wAAOSw-itXtqJk

mounting brackets are also from him, have a look at his store. this is them
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/White-So...t-Kit-Motorhome-Caravan-RV-Boat-/331530500474

A lot of people on here seem to solely use marine 291 sikaflex but i want to keep the van for a while and not worry about them coming loose so I put heaps of sika under each bracket and 2 screws in each corner into the van. used small metal screws from bunnings, 8gx20mm and put them in with a drill and did the final tighten with a screwdriver. i also sika'd the brackets to the panel and put 2 screws in each corner into the panel as well. then I ran a bead of sika around the brackets between the bracket and the van just to stop vibrations etc. should last forever!

the MPPT regulator is one of these, i ran one of these in the camper trailer and also have one in the jeep, they work great. do everything the expensive ones do and the ones been in the camper 4 years hasn't missed a beat. I like the fact it has a cut off voltage set so wont overcharge, it also tells you exactly how many amp hours the panels are putting in and if you connect load wires from the reg to 12v devices like a fridge, lights, water pump etc it has an inbuilt auto resetting circuit breaker and also tells you exactly how many amp hours each device is drawing. good for working out what items use what amounts of power. also has a button to turn load on and off so basically its a kill switch for everything wired through it.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30A-MPPT...722231?hash=item5b31b139f7:g:cOYAAOSw6EhUPL~1

 

[coneheadpaul]

That looks a very nice job ...and if that really is an mppt controller. ..adam welch of youtube will be my judge. ...then it is incredible value for money ..vfm....and if memory serves I think it is ! ..

I like to have my panels ....move aboutable as my van in the garage a lot...and enables parking in the shade as and when....nevertheless a tidy job sir!

Cheers cp

 

[coneheadpaul]

Installed 2 x 200 watt panels on the roof yesterday and a 30a MPPT regulator. works a treat. Panels rated to about 12 amps each so if i can got 20 amps combined I will be a happy lad.

panels are off eBay they're from this seller, i have used his gear before and its very good. all of the below is connected via 38amp rated 6mm tycab 12v cable.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200-Watt...538743?hash=item4d3483dcb7:g:-6wAAOSw-itXtqJk

mounting brackets are also from him, have a look at his store. this is them
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/White-So...t-Kit-Motorhome-Caravan-RV-Boat-/331530500474

A lot of people on here seem to solely use marine 291 sikaflex but i want to keep the van for a while and not worry about them coming loose so I put heaps of sika under each bracket and 2 screws in each corner into the van. used small metal screws from bunnings, 8gx20mm and put them in with a drill and did the final tighten with a screwdriver. i also sika'd the brackets to the panel and put 2 screws in each corner into the panel as well. then I ran a bead of sika around the brackets between the bracket and the van just to stop vibrations etc. should last forever!

the MPPT regulator is one of these, i ran one of these in the camper trailer and also have one in the jeep, they work great. do everything the expensive ones do and the ones been in the camper 4 years hasn't missed a beat. I like the fact it has a cut off voltage set so wont overcharge, it also tells you exactly how many amp hours the panels are putting in and if you connect load wires from the reg to 12v devices like a fridge, lights, water pump etc it has an inbuilt auto resetting circuit breaker and also tells you exactly how many amp hours each device is drawing. good for working out what items use what amounts of power. also has a button to turn load on and off so basically its a kill switch for everything wired through it.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30A-MPPT...722231?hash=item5b31b139f7:g:cOYAAOSw6EhUPL~1

Installed 2 x 200 watt panels on the roof yesterday and a 30a MPPT regulator. works a treat. Panels rated to about 12 amps each so if i can got 20 amps combined I will be rated 6mm tycab 12v cable.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200-Watt...538743?hash=item4d3483dcb7:g:-6wAAOSw-itXtqJk

mounting brackets are also from him, have a look at his

Installed 2 x 200 watt panels on the roof yesterday and a 30a MPPT regulator. works a treat. Panels rated to about 12 amps each so if i can got 20 amps combined I will be a happy lad.

panels are off eBay they're from this seller, i have used his gear before and its very good. all of the below is connected via 38amp rated 6mm tycab 12v cable.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/200-Watt...538743?hash=item4d3483dcb7:g:-6wAAOSw-itXtqJk

mounting brackets are also from him, have a look at his store. this is them
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/White-So...t-Kit-Motorhome-Caravan-RV-Boat-/331530500474

A lot of people on here seem to solely use marine 291 sikaflex but i want to keep the van for a while and not worry about them coming loose so I put heaps of sika under each bracket and 2 screws in each corner into the van. used small metal screws from bunnings, 8gx20mm and put them in with a drill and did the final tighten with a screwdriver. i also sika'd the brackets to the panel and put 2 screws in each corner into the panel as well. then I ran a bead of sika around the brackets between the bracket and the van just to stop vibrations etc. should last forever!

the MPPT regulator is one of these, i ran one of these in the camper trailer and also have one in the jeep, they work great. do everything the expensive ones do and the ones been in the camper 4 years hasn't missed a beat. I like the fact it has a cut off voltage set so wont overcharge, it also tells you exactly how many amp hours the panels are putting in and if you connect load wires from the reg to 12v devices like a fridge, lights, water pump etc it has an inbuilt auto resetting circuit breaker and also tells you exactly how many amp hours each device is drawing. good for working out what items use what amounts of power. also has a button to turn load on and off so basically its a kill switch for everything wired through it.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/30A-MPPT...722231?hash=item5b31b139f7:g:cOYAAOSw6EhUPL~1

With solar or any 12v systems that suffer from " copper losses" as we called them back in the day...it is quite amazing. .as brenton mentioned. ..the improvement that thicker heavier gauge wiring will render...especially over distance...obvious to many but overlooked by some.
The reason why mains power on the grid is transported at very high voltage and low current..lessens the "flow" and therefore frictional copper losses...uses pressure ( voltage ) instead.
Low voltage high current systems like 12v can be rendered useless by thin wiring.
Cheers brenton

 

[Brenton]

That looks a very nice job ...and if that really is an mppt controller. ..adam welch of youtube will be my judge. ...then it is incredible value for money ..vfm....and if memory serves I think it is ! ..

I like to have my panels ....move aboutable as my van in the garage a lot...and enables parking in the shade as and when....nevertheless a tidy job sir!

Cheers cp

i have tested them over the years in my car and camper and they work very well these regulators, never ever let me down.

A little trick I have done at home is I have a 40w panel mounted to the roof of my shed and an anderson plug inside. I simply plug the van in when she is parked in the shed, no need to move panels then. it keeps the batteries on float cycle and at 100% all of the time.

I also have a 100w flexible panel i use with the car so I will be mounting another anderson under the van so I can run that one in the sun and plug it into the van.

I get the removable panel thing but thats why I put 400w on the van, i figure its bound to get some sun when camping and if it puts in 20 amps an hour it doesn't need much sun to boost them back up. one less thing to pack up and set up having them mounted. time will tell.

this is how the jeep is setup, same reg but just a 10A one. the 100w flexible panel works a treat. I have a 90A slimline AGM under the seat which runs the 40L engel as a drinks fridge and every morning the battery is back up full again by about 10am and just floats all day. its great to throw the panel on the sand or on the roof rack and its only a few mm thick so it sits in between the back seat and the fridge in transit. i just keep it in the car permanently. in the bottom pic its sitting up on the rack, cant even notice it.

 

[coneheadpaul]

Looks awesome....I assume the flexible panels are dearer due to their lesser availability. ..would be nice n light though?

And glueable to the van roof?

Cheers cp