RATED D SHACKLES

Meanderthals

Meanderthals

Aka PhilD
Mar 16, 2012
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Near Darwin
dagree said:
Sorted the short chain issue this afternoon.....
Couple of hammerlocks and a couple of extra chain links added!
View attachment 24669 View attachment 24670
Click to expand...
I have a different van hitch but have the same situation as you. If the chains are supposed to stop the front of the van digging in to the road if a hitch failure happens, then what do you do about an intermediate hanging point to reduce the possibility? And if you do find an adequate way of supporting them, then with the chains crossed over you have to ensure that they don't get tangled up with the lower part of the WDH on turns. Our HR suppliers up this way don't carry much stock but I have seen that HR list a bracket kit that is apparently for this purpose but have yet to see how it does it. Anyway, I have around 6 months before our next try of a trip to sort it out.
 
dagree

dagree

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Mar 3, 2012
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@PhilD and @Marv_mart
The setup I have is nothing different to any standard hitching requirement just extended chains so yes would prevent the trailer hitch hitting the ground if the the $h!t hit the fan (Hence tethered with a link to spare... Can get a pic tomorrow of disconnected hitch and lowered off the jockey wheel as tested today. As I do with all set ups). They are double chains crossed as per the required regs.
What gets me is that here in WA vans/trailers under 2500kgs only require one chain.... Bloody stupid idea as far as I'm concerned!!!!

@PhilD not sure what you mean about an intermediate hanging point and I don't have WDH setup on this van.
Would like to see a pic of what you are talking about!
 
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Meanderthals

Meanderthals

Aka PhilD
Mar 16, 2012
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Near Darwin
dagree said:
@PhilD and @Marv_mart
The setup I have is nothing different to any standard hitching requirement just extended chains so yes would prevent the trailer hitch hitting the ground if the the $h!t hit the fan (Hence tethered with a link to spare... Can get a pic tomorrow of disconnected hitch and lowered off the jockey wheel as tested today. As I do with all set ups). They are double chains crossed as per the required regs.
What gets me is that here in WA vans/trailers under 2500kgs only require one chain.... Bloody stupid idea as far as I'm concerned!!!!

@PhilD not sure what you mean about an intermediate hanging point and I don't have WDH setup on this van.
Would like to see a pic of what you are talking about!
Click to expand...
Sorry, I didn't look close enough at the pictures to see that it wasn't a WDH and that it was more to just get the tow ball height that you wanted. The cast tongue is the same as my HR WDH one and my understanding is that HR have a bracket setup that attaches to that cast item and then hooks on to the chains so that the chains are supported at an intermediate point in case the tow connection fails. I'm trying to find a photo of this supposed kit to see what it actually looks like and how it does it so I can either buy it or make a similar one.
 
crackacoldie

crackacoldie

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Jan 8, 2013
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Newcastle NSW
From my experience when the coupling plate broke off the a-frame while driving:

The chains were crossed,, 275kg of ball weight seperated the chains and the draw bar hit the deck. In all honesty, that is exactly where I wanted it as I knew where the draw bar was in relation to the back of the car and I knew it wouldn't make a sudden entrance through the tailgate.

http://www.expandasdownunder.com/threads/my-accidental-experience-with-safety-chains.2315/
 
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davemc

davemc

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Oct 29, 2013
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PhilD said:
Our local Bunnings didn't have any rated ones when I was there but as I also wanted assorted other stuff to do my cyclone tie downs I went to a specialised rigging supplier where I was certain that I'd get quality gear.
Click to expand...
The ones we got where with the van from Jayco a couple of months ago. Same no name that a lot of places have.. Did not get to a trailer shop yesterday was out looking for something else. Although stopped at a few places Repco, Super Cheap, Autobarn, masters and bunnings looking for something else so walked past. Only Bunnings had rated ones which I found interesting. Most had the non rated plain ones like we got from Jayco. I head off to look tomorrow at the tool box place which does trailers.
 
Meanderthals

Meanderthals

Aka PhilD
Mar 16, 2012
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I'm 20 minutes walk from the nearest green shed (other than the one I can see from here in the backyard).
I'm 10 minutes drive to a specialist rigging company.
My closest Mitre10 is 280 Km away.
 
davemc

davemc

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Well got a pair of 2T ones a bit of a difference to the ones Jayco gave.. Yes its recommended it seems although I would not of thought they where not correct and unrated if I did not see the social media posts and on here.
Not as easy to get in see what happens when we hitch up next
IMG_5250.JPG
 
gspy4u

gspy4u

Active Member
Apr 27, 2012
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why are people getting the 2t ones, that would mean that the breaking load would be about 10t to 12t ???

Just some info if you haven't found it yet.
http://www.google.com.au/url?q=http://www.tmr.qld.gov.au/~/media/Safety/Vehicle%2520standards%2520and%2520modifications/Loads%2520and%2520towing/Safe%2520towing/Safe_towing_guide.pdf&sa=U&ei=FcfmU8iuBpXk8AXV3IGgDw&ved=0CBQQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNE7Uc2_LYRbT9QfB7CJs5KOySWjPw

As per the RTA site: page 8 states

The break load limit of the shackle is rated at least 1.5 times greater than the ATM of the Trailer.

Generally, the Break Load Limit BLL of a rated shackle will be six times greater than its Work Load Limit WLL.

So as most shackles are stamped with WLL on them then you can simple multiple that by 5 or 6 to give you the safe BLL that the legislation stipulates.

So if it has a WLL 1.0T on it then the safe BLL will be 5-6T. So as an example, our panda is 2371 ATM so it's safe rated shackle should be x 1.5 = 3.556T

It you get a 10mm D Shackle stamped with a WLL 1.0T then it's BLL will be 1 x 6 = 6T well an truly over the requirements.

People going nuts since this has come to light in the last week. But confusingly they and the shops have been looking at the WLL as having to be 1.5 x the ATM and not the BLL. So we'd have to get a 16mm shackle which barely fits in the hole according to this.

Just goes to show how miss=information goes around so easily.

So just know the ATM of your trailer and as long as the WLL on the shackle is no less than 1/6 of the ATM you are fine.
 
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skippy

skippy

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Jun 21, 2010
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@gspy That doent make sence though why would you have a shackel rated higher than the chains or chain that it attaches too? "Weird"
 
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Meanderthals

Meanderthals

Aka PhilD
Mar 16, 2012
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Near Darwin
Short answer is, BECAUSE I CAN.

Longer answer:
Biggest that fit so greater safety margin. Minimal extra cost and weight. If I had wanted to only go with minimum requirements then I would not have bought a 3.5T capacity vehicle to tow a 2.5T van, but I wanted that extra safety margin.

I don't build things to minimum standard otherwise my shed would have only been designed for a lower category of Cyclone and relied on Insurance. I wanted it for the eventual Cat5 we will experience. The money we saved on labour in doing it ourselves (except for the slab) I put in to extra quantity, size and thickness steel fully MIG welded that hopefully it will be the tree's that come off worse, not the shed. If I could easily retrofit our house in a similar manner then I would be doing that as well.
 
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