No Options Apply My endless list of jobs (or feels like)

[Drover]

I just plumb mine to the 12v tug connection at back of fridge but I like that idea, a simple fridge switch except for the wiring run.

Another question ....................... Does the invertor cable rate a 200a fuse ? is the cable that heavy ?

I did one for my ole Tardis, I should do one for Big Mal as its had a lot of changes though I think I will go handraulic as I would loose my cool demeanor doing it on the computer.

 

[jazzeddie1234]

I just plumb mine to the 12v tug connection at back of fridge but I like that idea, a simple fridge switch except for the wiring run.

Another question ....................... Does the invertor cable rate a 200a fuse ? is the cable that heavy ?

I did one for my ole Tardis, I should do one for Big Mal as its had a lot of changes though I think I will go handraulic as I would loose my cool demeanor doing it on the computer.

The ign to D+ is useful in that I can include the fridge on 12V check in my pre departure rounds

The inverter cable is the supplied stuff but cut very short. It's pretty chunky. And I use 0GA for the battery side - a real pain to run and terminate.

 

[jazzeddie1234]

My Schottky Diodes have arrived. MBR30100 are 30A rated and very inexpensive. I might try running 2 ltc3780 in parallel. This will not work without some form of balancing system - the regulators will fight each other - and a diode in the output of each board is the most common method (a low value resistor in each leg also works well) to prevent this.

10pcs MBR30100 MBR30100CT Power Rectifier TO-220 ON new | eBay

Module, crystal oscillator, relay and all kinds of electronic. To other remote country.

www.ebay.com.au

 

[jazzeddie1234]

I've wired up a switch that allows me to reverse the direction of the ltc. Recap : The Ute second battery is charged by dc dc from the alternator and 120w solarand often has surplus power. This is connected to pin 2 on the towbar - not the cranking battery as is more typical.



Normal switch position the ute second battery charges the van battery when there is surplus.

Other position the van charges the ute second battery. This is handy when the ute is parked in the shade and the van has surplus.

I had to change the van battery connection - it was going to the setec aux in but that does not let me reverse the flow - so now the ltc is connected to the batteries via it's own diode

I will have to reset the start and max voltages too

last issue to fix/check is the earthing. The ltc needs to be in the earth return circuit so it can measure and limit current but this new setup has earths everywhere and I have to change that somehow

 

[Boots in Action]

I've wired up a switch that allows me to reverse the direction of the ltc. Recap : The Ute second battery is charged by dc dc from the alternator and 120w solarand often has surplus power. This is connected to pin 2 on the towbar - not the cranking battery as is more typical.

View attachment 68597

Normal switch position the ute second battery charges the van battery when there is surplus.

Other position the van charges the ute second battery. This is handy when the ute is parked in the shade and the van has surplus.

I had to change the van battery connection - it was going to the setec aux in but that does not let me reverse the flow - so now the ltc is connected to the batteries via it's own diode
View attachment 68598
I will have to reset the start and max voltages too

last issue to fix/check is the earthing. The ltc needs to be in the earth return circuit so it can measure and limit current but this new setup has earths everywhere and I have to change that somehow

@jazzeddie1234 , some very complex electrical setup you now have, and only YOU know how it's hooked up. If you ever sell your tug/van, I hope you are going to write and set out the entire electrics for the new owner, who I am sure would normally be overwhelmed with its complexity. And pity the poor "sparkie" who is called upon to trouble shoot if you are not around. Okay, simple enough when you installed it, but I would hate to have to follow each and every wire/circuit to confirm what does what. But great mods to meet your own requirements though.

 

[jazzeddie1234]

Now you see why I gave up my first career - to many prototypes and not enough work output. Hopefully I have wired it so that it can be easily restored to standard jayco. It is fully labeled and I have a circuit diagram of all the mods.

 

[jazzeddie1234]

More activity!

Thought I would make a new variable bench power supply seeing my old one is 40+ years old. White post is +V but via one of my new Schottky Diode. This reduces risk of blowing up the supply when connected to things that store energy.


It's powered by one of these cheap ebay 240 to DC supplies. This one is the 30 amp 12 volt version for the van but it has to go back because it's faulty.


And finally (for today) a trip to the roof to replace the original jayco installed solar panel. Was working ok but starting to show visible water type marks in one corner. Pretty dirty underneath too


Big clean up. remove 2 end brackets because new panel is bigger, seal the holes, locate the roof joists with a magnet and a bit of guesswork


Fit the new 250 watt (claimed) panel with new brackets, salvage some old solar connectors to replace the lugs that jayco used. The centre brackets are not over joists so they are simply sikaflexed with a couple of locating screws (the wood is keeping the 3mm sikaflex gap between bracket and roof until it sets)
Note my safety strap to keep the ladders steady

I had to use a bracket the opposite way around (foot is under the panel) next to the roof vent as it was too tight a fit

 

[Drover]

I rivetted the brackets to the panel then glue and screw to roof, a fitter once told me fitting brackets to roof then panel to roof is a sure way to stress the mount at roof fitting, which sounded plausable to me.

I once had a power supply like that but it was made in the late 70's, was bigger, hummmed and got warm, I used it to power radios and stuff, hummed away happily for a few decades and I think it emitted a small puff of smoke not long into the 21st century, I then went to an old battery under the bench with a little panel on the roof.

 

[Hitting the road]

Hi all...I have had to replace my tug as some will know. Thing is there is no existing tow bar or wiring on this one. I have it booked in next week to have a Hayman Reece fitted and they have quoted a regular 7 pin flat plug. My previous tug had a 12 pin plug, but also had a separate Anderson plug supplying 12v for the fridge while traveling.

I will be fitting an Anderson plug to take care of the fridge from the Alternator along with a relay or isolator on this one, but I would prefer to fit a 12 pin plug too being the trailer plug is 12 pin.
I know a 7 pin plug will go in to a 12 pin no problem, but will a 12 pin plug in to a 7 pin?

The van doesn't have any anti sway fitted to it so that is not a consideration.

 

[millers]

Why not ask them to fit a 12 pin, even if it is only wired as a 7. That way the tug will take both. Google seems to suggest that 12 pin plug will not fit 7 pin.

As part of the 7 pin wiring will they wire pin 2 (reverse) as power. If so, could they run the additional wire for Anderson for you. May not be that much extra. Although I wonder if they will put it through a relay or isolator.

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi all...I have had to replace my tug as some will know. Thing is there is no existing tow bar or wiring on this one. I have it booked in next week to have a Hayman Reece fitted and they have quoted a regular 7 pin flat plug. My previous tug had a 12 pin plug, but also had a separate Anderson plug supplying 12v for the fridge while traveling.

I will be fitting an Anderson plug to take care of the fridge from the Alternator along with a relay or isolator on this one, but I would prefer to fit a 12 pin plug too being the trailer plug is 12 pin.
I know a 7 pin plug will go in to a 12 pin no problem, but will a 12 pin plug in to a 7 pin?

The van doesn't have any anti sway fitted to it so that is not a consideration.

@Hitting the road, the following may be of assistance to you. When I first collected my 2013 Penguin, it was fitted with a 7 pin plug on van and a 7 pin socket on tug. A separate line was used for the fridge with connections tug to van by Anderson plug and heavier wiring. To enable me to get heavier wiring from tug to Setec, I decided to change the 7 pin setup to a 12 pin setup with a Baxters plug and socket set which I bought on Ebay for under $25.00. This enabled me to wire everything the same except that the 12 pin connections have 5 pins/sockets to handle heavier current (Baxters was rated up to 35A compared to the 7 pin rated at only 15A)?? I have the female socket on tug with the 5 high load sockets at the top and the 7 pins low load sockets below . See attached link for description of pins. If you have it that way, the spring loaded cover on the female tug socket is able to lock over the lug/s on the top of the male plug on van connector when connected. This prevents the weight of the cable drag from pulling down on connections or making them loose and causing burnt out connections, which is what happens when the spring loaded cover is locked over the lugs from underneath. The additional benefit is that 7 pin flat plug (male pins) on my 6 X 4 trailer fits perfectly into the bottom 7 pin (female sockets) on tug and are also locked into position by the tug spring loaded cover.
Note the large plastic lugs on both van plug and trailer plugs which the cover locks behind.


So, yes, a 7 pin plug will fit into a 12 pin socket and no doubt the other way also, but not normally the way to go. The last picture shows the 7 pin trailer plug engaged into the 12 pin tug socket connecting only the bottom 7 pins.

BAXTERS 12 PIN FLAT TRAILER PLUG CONNECTOR 7 TRAILER CARAVAN CAMPER 4WD CAR | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for BAXTERS 12 PIN FLAT TRAILER PLUG CONNECTOR 7 TRAILER CARAVAN CAMPER 4WD CAR at the best online prices at eBay!

www.ebay.com.au

12 Pin Flat Trailer Socket Plug Set Connector Female & Male Caravan Camper 4WD | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 12 Pin Flat Trailer Socket Plug Set Connector Female & Male Caravan Camper 4WD at the best online prices at eBay!

www.ebay.com.au

 

[mikerezny]

Hi,
my understanding is that a 7-pin trailer plug will connect to a 12-pin car socket but a 12-pin trailer plug will NOT connect to a 7-pin car socket:
https://www.amae.net.au/2019/07/11/...houldnt-run-through-your-12-pin-trailer-plug/

If you are changing the car socket be aware that the car sockets come in three variants. Which one will depend on the particular vehicle. The variants are to allow for disabling the reversing sensors when a trailer is connected.
Variant one: plain normal with no facility for disabling the reversing sensors.
Variants two and three are fitted with a magnetic reed switch to signal the car electronics that the cover flap is closed (no trailer plug inserted) or open (trailer plug inserted).
The reason for two variants is that some vehicles require the reed switch to be activated (short circuit) when the flap is closed whilst other vehicles require the reed switch to be activated when the flap is open.
Here is a link to the Narva website:
https://www.narva.com.au/categories...12-pin-flat-plug-socket/socket?q=&per_page=12

take care
Mike

 

[Drover]

I know 7 pin on trailer plugs into a 12 pin on tug as my old ute has a 12 pin and boat has a 7 but not at home to check the other way............................. Anderson from Jeep to van for fridge I would run from jumper pins under bonnet to bumper with a relay/fridge switch or whatever fitted at the fridge, that way the anderson on the Jeep can be utilsed for other things and having the relay by the fridge makes for a handy cable size reducer....... I run 7 pin on both, easier and cheaper while away if one breaks.... I don't like 12 pins anyway.... Jeep harness makes life easier to connect up to wiring....................

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi,
my understanding is that a 7-pin trailer plug will connect to a 12-pin car socket but a 12-pin trailer plug will NOT connect to a 7-pin car socket:
https://www.amae.net.au/2019/07/11/...houldnt-run-through-your-12-pin-trailer-plug/

If you are changing the car socket be aware that the car sockets come in three variants. Which one will depend on the particular vehicle. The variants are to allow for disabling the reversing sensors when a trailer is connected.
Variant one: plain normal with no facility for disabling the reversing sensors.
Variants two and three are fitted with a magnetic reed switch to signal the car electronics that the cover flap is closed (no trailer plug inserted) or open (trailer plug inserted).
The reason for two variants is that some vehicles require the reed switch to be activated (short circuit) when the flap is closed whilst other vehicles require the reed switch to be activated when the flap is open.
Here is a link to the Narva website:
https://www.narva.com.au/categories...12-pin-flat-plug-socket/socket?q=&per_page=12

If you look carefully at the 12-pin sockets on this page it will become obvious that the shroud of a 7-pin trailer plug will not fit over the 12-pin car socket assembly.

take care
Mike

Hi Mike @mikerezny , thanks for the update on the different types of plugs/connectors. Fortunately I do not have to worry about "break-away or anti-sway circuits", so that is why I did not mention them for my setup. Nor do I need to consider the electronics so necessary on some modern tugs indicating whether cover flap is open or closed, but I guess that some members may have to have that knowledge.
Regarding the first link regarding charging current through light connector pins/sockets, I believe that current overload causing melted pins/sockets would be unlikely to occur using the heavy 35A pins under normal circumstances. If you were silly enough to run your fridge (18 to 23A on their own) and have really flat van batteries AND a high enough voltage to pass enough current to charge van batteries all on the same circuit, you would be asking for trouble. A separate line for fridge supply via Anderson plug reduces that possibility considerably, and if you were likely/wanted to fully charge van battery/ies on the move, you should be looking at a DC to DC system with its own separate circuit too. Not going to happen with my setup, but those with heavy current devices and incorporating Lithium batteries with high charge rates could be a different story!!!

 

[Hitting the road]

Thanks all for the replies...much appreciated. I'll run with a 12 pin on the tug I reckon for reasons above...though i did also have a chat to my Leccy and he advised that a 7 pin flat will plug in to a 12 pin receiver, but not the other way around it seems.
So being the tow bar people will be fitting a plug I'll ask for a 12 pin. The larger top row just won't have anything connected through them due to the separate Anderson plug...should all be good to go.
I can at least modify later if need be.

 

[Drover]

You can always use the extra pins to run things like camera lines, did that on one of mine... If you have a breaksafe its usually fed via the reverse light pin it seems so make sure they match that up to the same pin on your van, my Jeep had the reverse light on the reverse pin while Big Mal was using that for nreaksafe power supply so if you loose RH park lights and other funny things happen then thats more than likely it, I pulled the wire on the van plug and wired the breaksafe to charge off van batteries........

 

[Hitting the road]

True Drover...the van has a camera fitted already and is wired to the draw bar. I have a kit to wire the car as well which I need to do. As you note the extra spare pins could come in handy...

 

[jazzeddie1234]

Feeling withdrawal pangs being so far away from my project (opps Caravan) so decided to start documenting all the electrical changes
Fortunately I have photos of everything. Next job is to print it out and put it somewhere I can't remember

I also noticed some tug mounted DC DC /MPPT controllers have a smart feature where they automatically trickle charge the cranking battery (ie reverse the current flow) when there is plenty of solar. So now putting my mind to designing something like that - a low current charger that fires up when the second battery is full (and the ignition is off...)

 

[Drover]

I'm just thinking when I last updated mine ????????? I think I may be too late as some have undergone upgrades and additions I can't remember what I did...

 

[jazzeddie1234]

I'm just thinking when I last updated mine ????????? I think I may be too late as some have undergone upgrades and additions I can't remember what I did...

That was partly why I documented a lot of it in this thread - just point the new owner at it (after getting the cash )