No Options Apply My endless list of jobs (or feels like)

jazzeddie1234

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May 19, 2016
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Opps, disaster. Changing to lithium means disconnecting the setec aux in to prevent the tug charging because I don't trust the circuitry/ charging logic. I bought this 10amp (going on 6 amp) dc dc circuit on ebay. It's a very smart high efficiency design that will take 3 to 30 in and maintain a constant voltage out....with current limit and adjustable LVD. All for $25
IMG_20210412_145613.jpg Then I promptly blew it up by ignoring the prominent warning about not blowing it up. Oh well

IMG_20210420_125403.jpg So I bought this (not the reenforcing grid I carry everywhere) to cheer myself up which meant I had to buy this
IMG_20210420_142408.jpg to supply the wood. $200 bucks,great youtube reviews, and a 5 year replacement warranty! But that meant I had to design some form of firewood holder
IMG_20210429_125208.jpg I bent this up to see if would be strong enough to hold a couple of small logs. Stay tuned...

IMG_20210427_103043.jpgIMG_20210425_223013.jpg Meanwhile the 3d printer is getting a workout. I designed some stacking bins for the really awkward shape cupboards next to the beds. One to go.

Pondering a better solution to my solar shower problem (I hate using gas to heat my shower water). Bought a 5l spray bottle from bunnings, painted it black - except for a strip where I can see the water level), made up some fittings so I can leave it in the sun, insert it in the shower line, turn the shower on and it forces the hot water out! The top cap is also big enough to take my submersible pump if I don't want it full of water after a shower.

IMG_20210426_161152.jpg Perfect. But that's what I said about the last 5 designs

IMG_20210422_135952.jpg Started work on the ute solar panel. Plan is to paint it to match the ute but the very expensive custom blend spray can wouldn't spray so that's on hold until the supplier fixes it.
 
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Drover

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You really need to get out and away I think, 6 awg from battery to setek, goodness could jump start a loco with that..... Pack up and escape.......I would like to run some heavier feed to pump etc but it's all hidden in the walls...in fact I would like a pump that isn't so damn noisy, I await your pump mod..... :D :D
 

jazzeddie1234

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May 19, 2016
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Haha that's what 4 months in the driveway does. Hopefully back on the road soon and next year we plan to do another lap but take 2+ years this time.

I upgraded the cable from the battery to the setec (was way lighter than 6awg) and that fixed all my voltage drop/flickering light issues
 

Drover

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You've inspired me, my solution for the pump and flickering lights will be a run of 6mm or maybe 8B&S but that's overkill I think from battery bus bar to a relay at the pump, not possible to redo the van wiring loom.
 
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jazzeddie1234

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May 19, 2016
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I ran a 6b&s straight from the battery, under the floor and up through a hole by the setec. Chopped and reused the existing setec Bat +- ends (spade and a bit of tail) because the 6 gauge is difficult to terminate in a spade. The old cable can stay in place for now.

A friend did the relay idea. Works fine. A direct run to pump won't need a heavy cable because the led flicker is caused by the voltage drop from battery to setec (if that's where your lights are fused)

Also (you probably know this) the relay will draw current all the time the pump is active. So I would get as low a current relay as possible and check it's ok being on continuously
 
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Drover

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You sure you mean 6 B&S thats nearly as fat as a pencil ? Actually been thinking I might re-do my wiring for TV and STBs as well as pump, discovery time when I get home...Go on a trip and plan new mods seems to be my thing.
 

jazzeddie1234

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May 19, 2016
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High tech this week. The van has a diesel heater mounted under the floor with an outlet in the ensuite and intake in the footwell. All works great but I wanted to blow cool air on hot days so... in the interests of learning how to design 3d stuff... I drew up a tee section to fit in the intake duct
IMG_20210504_193842.jpg The design printed ok - the stuff in the circle is temporary support material to stop the tube sagging while hot.

IMG_20210507_123700.jpg The branch takes a 90mm computer fan that sucks cool air and blows it through the heater and into the van!

IMG_20210507_102150.jpg It needs a filter so I designed a clip over frame to squash a chux cloth on.

Now back to my most unfavorite job ....wheel bearings & brakes
 
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Drover

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A mate used poly pipe in his, it did more than distort when on hot and I don't think any amount of support would have helped it plus it ponged something fierce, the heat in the plumbing can be as much as 50 deg or so.

Would you really get much flow, my heater when on just fan doesn't really do a great job.
 

jazzeddie1234

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May 19, 2016
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Would you really get much flow,
Yeah I have no idea how effective it will be compared to simply opening the windows. I did consider a boat bilge blower as a plan B. My heater fan can be tricked into running without heat and moves a fair amount of air but is noisy

the heat in the plumbing can be as much as 50 deg or so
That's why I put it on the intake side. My heater is too hot to hold a hand over the outlet on full and pvc doesn't stand a chance
 
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Drover

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I have a fancy dancy thing called a fan, spinning blades chuck out a nice bit of air, if it doesn't push enough then the LRPS gets the AC going.....lol,lol,lol..

I'm glad I don't have a 3D printer, the things I would make and the money I would spend, current hobby sucks enough funds as it is...........I get The Eye quite often.
 
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jazzeddie1234

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May 19, 2016
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The end of the list is in sight. Past few weeks has been a slog with a few failures but eventual progress.

I installed the new solar panel on the ute but hated the eyesore compared to the thin, flexible panel so .... decided to paint it.
IMG_20210527_144805.jpg Took several attempts as the first can mix was too red and the second spluttered paint everywhere. At least it ended up free after I got a refund. The white adhesive needs to cure before I touch that up.

IMG_20210529_115341.jpgThe $20 replacement dc dc board arrived and this time I decided not to blow it up. It sits in the aux in line of the setec and provides voltage matching between the ute (lead acid deep cycle) and the new lithium van batteries. The board accepts 5 - 30V input for a constant voltage out (at 90% efficiency). Also has adjustable LV cut out and adjustable current limit which the setec doesn't have for the aux in. The fan is my idea for hot days.
IMG_20210529_133356.jpg Hooked up the ute and tested the current limit (will start at 5 amps) and LV cut out. OK so far...

IMG_20210516_105746.jpg Expanded my 3d skills by designing a hook for my 4G antenna. The shape lets it hang on the window.

IMG_20210524_121654.jpg The ozito chainsaw required a major redesign of tunnel boot storage. It has to be easy to access but I hate wasting space.

IMG_20210513_145849.jpg And I found a replacement bin for my hoses. I drill a flange in the side so I can attach my gray water hose for times we use the washing machine - I don't use a direct connected hose due to the volume of water the machine pumps out. This way the bin fills to the top and slowly drains for the next cycle.

The 12pin snake was a mess after several repairs so I pulled it apart, split out the fridge to an anderson, and slid on a new tube

Of course the brakes and bearings but that's in another thread

I've been given a date to be on the road so time to pack. Going where? Perth - Kal - Lake Ballard - Geralton - Marble bar - and maybe Broome. Home by Christmas and then another big lap hopefully
 

Boots in Action

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Mar 13, 2017
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Ferny Grove, Queensland
The end of the list is in sight. Past few weeks has been a slog with a few failures but eventual progress.

I installed the new solar panel on the ute but hated the eyesore compared to the thin, flexible panel so .... decided to paint it.
View attachment 66999 Took several attempts as the first can mix was too red and the second spluttered paint everywhere. At least it ended up free after I got a refund. The white adhesive needs to cure before I touch that up.

View attachment 67000The $20 replacement dc dc board arrived and this time I decided not to blow it up. It sits in the aux in line of the setec and provides voltage matching between the ute (lead acid deep cycle) and the new lithium van batteries. The board accepts 5 - 30V input for a constant voltage out (at 90% efficiency). Also has adjustable LV cut out and adjustable current limit which the setec doesn't have for the aux in. The fan is my idea for hot days.
View attachment 67001 Hooked up the ute and tested the current limit (will start at 5 amps) and LV cut out. OK so far...

View attachment 66997 Expanded my 3d skills by designing a hook for my 4G antenna. The shape lets it hang on the window.

View attachment 66998 The ozito chainsaw required a major redesign of tunnel boot storage. It has to be easy to access but I hate wasting space.

View attachment 66996 And I found a replacement bin for my hoses. I drill a flange in the side so I can attach my gray water hose for times we use the washing machine - I don't use a direct connected hose due to the volume of water the machine pumps out. This way the bin fills to the top and slowly drains for the next cycle.

The 12pin snake was a mess after several repairs so I pulled it apart, split out the fridge to an anderson, and slid on a new tube

Of course the brakes and bearings but that's in another thread

I've been given a date to be on the road so time to pack. Going where? Perth - Kal - Lake Ballard - Geralton - Marble bar - and maybe Broome. Home by Christmas and then another big lap hopefully
The dc to dc system seems a cheap alternative to the other types, especially as it has variable voltage settings and LVD. Thinking about setting up a similar system so my AGM battery/ies can benefit and get voltage up to 14.7 volts, instead of what just manages to get from tug alternator to battery through the power diode and the Setec . Would probably only get around 13 volts to charge van battery via Setec. Can you provide the link for purchasing that DC to DC controller. Love that technical electrical stuff which is cheap and easily connected. Any further advices would be appreciated too.
 

jazzeddie1234

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May 19, 2016
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Mandurah
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/265019694356?var=564870074184 LTC3780 10A DC 5V-32V to 1V-30V Auto Step Up Down Regulator. They are prone to blowing up because of a design flaw but it work ok around 12 - 15 volts - read the specs carefully (not like me on the first attempt) . It does have a quirk in that the cutoff is more of a tapering off (reduces current as it nears the LV set instead of cutting it off) but the effect is the same (no current at the set point)

robojax on youtube does great stress tests and Julian Ilett does great reviews on all sorts of dc dc stuff.

for higher current you have to go with a lower efficiency 2 stage design - step up module followed by step down

the renogy 20a dc dc looks to be great value but with basic current limit and no lv https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/293127895761

 
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Boots in Action

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Mar 13, 2017
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https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/265019694356?var=564870074184 LTC3780 10A DC 5V-32V to 1V-30V Auto Step Up Down Regulator. They are prone to blowing up because of a design flaw but it work ok around 12 - 15 volts - read the specs carefully (not like me on the first attempt) . It does have a quirk in that the cutoff is more of a tapering off (reduces current as it nears the LV set instead of cutting it off) but the effect is the same (no current at the set point)

robojax on youtube does great stress tests and Julian Ilett does great reviews on all sorts of dc dc stuff.

for higher current you have to go with a lower efficiency 2 stage design - step up module followed by step down

the renogy 20a dc dc looks to be great value but with basic current limit and no lv https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/293127895761

Thanks @jazzeddie1234 . I have ordered one straightaway. Don't need the dearer Renogy 20A as unlikely to have van battery down too low as have plenty of solar and MPPT controller to do the heavy lifting. But this cheaper one will be helpful when moving from one camping spot to another, especially if solar generation has been limited on the day before and on the day we pack up. I have noted your advice to read the specs CAREFULLY before setting up. Thanks again......Cheers
 
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jazzeddie1234

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May 19, 2016
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i would also use a diode like a schottky diode out of a old solar panel and put in series with output. The circuit cant cope with reverse current flow like when connected as a battery charger. Fortunately the setec has a diode on the aux in.
 

jazzeddie1234

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May 19, 2016
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One job leads to another. This time it's the weight of the new solar panel on the ute hard lid. It opens ok and stays there but closes with little effort. So I bought some cheap 20kg gas springs/struts to help the existing ones.

IMG_20210610_154616.jpg First the geometry which I'm pretty rusty on. The lid opens in a complex arc so the pivot point was too difficult to measure. I went the other way and marked a reference point on both edges and went from there. 450mm fully extended and 280mm fully compressed.

IMG_20210610_153608.jpg Then transferred the marks to masking tape with 20mm graduations so I could fine tune the location. In the end I bolted the lid bracket on without fixing it to the lid and slid it along until there was some upward pressure without crossing the mark showing maximum compression.
The top mount ball joint will get a wing nut so I can quickly remove it when I need better access from the side.

It works! Now to do the other side.

BTW: why didn't I simply increase the push in the existing ones? They are the highest pressure struts you can get in that size...
 
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