One more job...the lpg regulator just failed when I turned the gas on to check the hot water system. $90 from local repair shop and $32 delivered from plumbing supplies in South Australia.
No Options Apply My endless list of jobs (or feels like)
- Thread starter jazzeddie1234
- Start date
1: Have you checked that there is no gas coming out of the pressure test point on the outlet of the regulator? Undo it a little, turn the gas on, and spray with some soap foam.
2: Sometimes, the regulator valve inside the regulator sticks from not being used. Unscrew the cap of the regulator adjustment screw. Then CAREFULLY, wind it in a few turns and wind it out exactly the same amount. Then wind it out a few turns and wind it out the same amount. Also, with the gas on, give it a reasonable tap with a block of wood or a rubber mallet.
3: If the regulator is mounted below your gas bottle outlet, crap from the bottle may have found its way into the regulator and gummed it up. If so, you will need to remount the regulator above the top of the gas bottle when you fit the new regulator.
4: Do you have braided or flexible hoses between the gas bottle and regulator. These have a limited lifetime and when old can gum up the regulator.
5: If you have two bottles connected, are you sure the selector tap is switched correctly?
Can be expensive suckers, I had a lookie as I think RVs are supposed to have 2 stage jobs now, $50 from caravans plus + freight ......... I have found if your using flexy hose that a run from reg to bottle being as straight as possible from reg with a gentle curve to bottle seems to work well, current ones have managed twice as long as old ones ........ I have plumbed in a reg off a barbie to check and found it was crap in a line and not the reg ...
Just to confirm.
The regulator must now be mounted ABOVE the gas bottle outlet to avoid liquid running down into the regulator:
"The regulator is connected to the gas cylinder with a pigtail, min length 300mm. The regulator must be a two stage regulator mounted vertically to a rigid mount, with the vent pointing down. The pigtail should slope down from the regulator to the gas cylinder to prevent liquid gas reaching the regulator."
https://www.caravansplus.com.au/guides/guide-to-gas-installations-in-caravans-rvs-a-42.html
The regulator must now be mounted ABOVE the gas bottle outlet to avoid liquid running down into the regulator:
"The regulator is connected to the gas cylinder with a pigtail, min length 300mm. The regulator must be a two stage regulator mounted vertically to a rigid mount, with the vent pointing down. The pigtail should slope down from the regulator to the gas cylinder to prevent liquid gas reaching the regulator."
https://www.caravansplus.com.au/guides/guide-to-gas-installations-in-caravans-rvs-a-42.html
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Sigh. One step forward, two steps back this week
First the good news
New regulator arrived today! Spot the difference 
yep identical
Installed and leak tested. Pigtails slope down
Now back to checking the gas appliances....and... one burner won't stay on. I've had this issue before so let's start yet another job
Yuck. The design is terrible and cooking residue gets in everywhere
Here is the culprit. A wiggle of the wire quickly fixes the problem
And now something for the brains trust
My hws will not stay lit if the door flap is shut. When open it starts, runs, heats up just fine. But the flame will extinguish if I shut the door. Done it since about 1 year old. Tried a new igniter which helped a bit, tried different air hole sizes...
I haven't cleaned the jet though . Any ideas?
First the good news
New regulator arrived today! Spot the difference yep identical Installed and leak tested. Pigtails slope downNow back to checking the gas appliances....and... one burner won't stay on. I've had this issue before so let's start yet another job
Yuck. The design is terrible and cooking residue gets in everywhere Here is the culprit. A wiggle of the wire quickly fixes the problemAnd now something for the brains trust
My hws will not stay lit if the door flap is shut. When open it starts, runs, heats up just fine. But the flame will extinguish if I shut the door. Done it since about 1 year old. Tried a new igniter which helped a bit, tried different air hole sizes...I haven't cleaned the jet though . Any ideas?
@jazzeddie1234 I had a good look at mine and its identical in the layout as yours even down to the rust marks virtually.................. First thing comes to mind is closing the door is cutting off the air intake flow but I really can't see how unless the holes are taped over and the exhaust is just one big opening, I couldn't even see how the door could put pressure on a fitting, it would certainly leave a mark anyway................. I doubt it would be the jet, it would be more likely to blow out with the door open you would think.............
I suppose have it up and running then close the door slowly to certain positions to see when it shuts down and since its fine with door open then air/gas flow to burner must be okay, possibly closing the door somehow causes a short in the wiring and it shuts down is about the only thing I can come up with....
Check how square the door is to the frame, it should close easily and latch without any force needed.......... a most interesting problem...
I suppose have it up and running then close the door slowly to certain positions to see when it shuts down and since its fine with door open then air/gas flow to burner must be okay, possibly closing the door somehow causes a short in the wiring and it shuts down is about the only thing I can come up with....
Check how square the door is to the frame, it should close easily and latch without any force needed.......... a most interesting problem...
Hi @jazzeddie1234, for the flame to cut out like that,, I would suspect that the thermocouple may be the problem. If there is insufficient constant current created by the heat of the burner, gas flow will automatically cut off. I had this problem with my van fridge, which would light no problems, gas flame would burn for a period (various?) and the fridge would suddenly stop working. Finally got around to changing it , but then had trouble with Interrupter not working properly. Changed that too and now NO PROBLEMS!!! Perhaps check and clean end of thermocouple and make sure fitting is firm and in centre of flame. Also, as thermocouple is a two circuit arrangement, make sure the outside of thermocouple (copper) is not shorting out on any other metal part of gas line. Also, a loose fitting of interrupter at gas control will also cause intermittent current from thermocouple.
I would have thought that would play up door open or closed @Boots in Action but then with these things it wouldn't be surprising.................... the door has taken a hit at all as is bent inwards ??
@Drover , I agree with that comment. The closing of door is obviously doing something and I agree that you have ruled out insufficient air to burner. Something is stopping flow of gas to burner... but what??
More adventures
While checking the thermocouple I noticed this
Both sides of the oven rear seriously cracked. Why do they charge so much of these oven hobs with such poor construction...
I added brackets to both sides and a couple of 90' angles so all good now
Oven reassembled, cleaned and tested
I also cleaned the hws igniter and adjusted the gap but still exactly the same.
While checking the thermocouple I noticed this
Both sides of the oven rear seriously cracked. Why do they charge so much of these oven hobs with such poor construction...
I added brackets to both sides and a couple of 90' angles so all good nowOven reassembled, cleaned and tested
I also cleaned the hws igniter and adjusted the gap but still exactly the same.
@jazzeddie1234 , I don't think there is a problem with the igniter and gap as you confirmed that unit lights okay. The problem appears to be the failure to keep flame burning when you close the door. The continued operation of the gas flame is controlled by thermocouple and will turn off gas as a safety factor in the event that gas flame is extinguished, or thermocouple does not generate sufficient voltage. Make sure that thermocouple stays in middle of flame when you close the door too. You can measure the voltage potential with a good multimeter if the thermocouple is CAREFULLY disconnected at the interrupter. From memory, it should be between 20 and 30 millivolts, but you need to check that out to be sure. I will see if I can find the link for the specs of thermocouples in van fridges anyway.
It's not a regular thermocouple in that it is 2 prongs that feed an electronic circuit and the flame allows a small current to flow across the gap. Maybe the flame direction changes enough when the door is shut so I will try moving the whole thing to see if that helps. I do notice a change in sound as the door closes which I assume is due to it being more restrictive - holes vs open air
With the door shut the flame burns strongly while the igniter is operating and then does either a fairly quick deterioration in strength or (usually on attempt 2), a sudden shut off as soon as the igniter stops. Door open, flame is strong, nice blue colour
Maybe the door needs a few more holes
With the door shut the flame burns strongly while the igniter is operating and then does either a fairly quick deterioration in strength or (usually on attempt 2), a sudden shut off as soon as the igniter stops. Door open, flame is strong, nice blue colour
Maybe the door needs a few more holes
Sat in the shade by Big Mal studying my HWS......... since its working until the door is shut then its not a gas/air/igniter problem but closing the door could be causing a short in one of the electronic bits, all I could see while I sat and stared at mine was the door pushing against the thermocouple cable, its not a high current so a small break or short will cause a shut down, any of those soft very flexible cables it doesn't take much to break the core, all other cables and fittings seem to be well clear of the door.............. connector inside van may be dodgy.
My ideas on fault tracing would be to remove the door, fire up HWS (make sure full of water), then using a bread board place it over various positions, giving a bit of a push to see if it faults, not covering intake or exhaust of course, I would also have a look inside at the circuit board box and wiring, I have seen them come loose and floating around.
Thats about my 2 Bobs..............
My ideas on fault tracing would be to remove the door, fire up HWS (make sure full of water), then using a bread board place it over various positions, giving a bit of a push to see if it faults, not covering intake or exhaust of course, I would also have a look inside at the circuit board box and wiring, I have seen them come loose and floating around.
Thats about my 2 Bobs..............
You inspired me to do the same sit and look. Even had my engineer son have a look. Apparently the air damper adjusts flame colour by a venturi effect so suggested trying different gaps to see if the venturi could improve air suction. Nope. I also tried adjusting the door hinge so there is a bigger gap at the base - thereby increasing fresh airflow. Nope. Took the jet out and cleaned. Nope.
Now I've had enough and the door will just stay open when it first fires up
Now I've had enough and the door will just stay open when it first fires up
Did you give the thermocouple wire a push and pull ?? trouble with door open wind will blow out the flame....
Departure day -1 and I'm still rushing around finishing and fixing stuff. Today's joy was my 12v compressor dropping a check valve so it's only pumping on 1 cylinder. I change tyre pressures frequently and there are 8 to reinflate when I do so it's off to the BCF sale for a replacement...
Second day on the road and no 12v in the van when I pull up. Both solar controller fuses had blown (these are independently wired from the fuses to the controllers and solar panels...) which tripped the 50A master breaker. I assume it happened in that order as it's battery-50a breaker- 20a fuse - solar controller. I replaced the fuses, poked and prodded all the wires around the distribution box in case there was a short happening but nothing obvious. Everything running normally.
Sigh
Sigh
If it happens again you know your in the poo, the big breaker tripping would be a concern, you don't have exposed battery terminals at all.... or something floating around that can cross the breaker terminals, my way of thinking is it happened from the battery end, as if the 20amps blew first the breaker wouldn't as power shut off and if there was enough to trip the 50amp after the 20's then I would think you might have some cooking, the 20 amps would blow first if the spike came from the battery end with the 50amp tripping as it built up maybe..... but then again not knowing the wiring lay out it is just guess work, actually sometimes it still is ................... Maybe a possible spike from the controller, they can throw a hissy at times and throw voltage that sets off the breakers but the 50 is a worry..........................
2 more weeks and I hope not to emulate your first couple of days since I have done some re wiring as well.............. stay safe and smiling.
2 more weeks and I hope not to emulate your first couple of days since I have done some re wiring as well.............. stay safe and smiling.
You have a strange situation.
If it was only one solar fuse and the breaker, it would seem possible that something of the order of 50A went through the wire from the panel side of the 20A fuse and the battery side of the breaker.
But for BOTH 20A fuses to blow would seem to be either
1: EACH panel supplying in excess of 20A (which is why each fuse blew) and the combined current was high enough to trigger the 50A breaker.
2: A reverse current in excess of 50A was drawn from the battery by something on the panel side of the fuses. It might be possible that the wiring on one panel had a short circuit which would explain blowing one fuse and the breaker. The second fuse blowing is quite strange. Either the short circuit was on each panel at the same time, the second unaffected panel was able to deliver enough current into the shorted leg to blow its fuse, or your wiring is not as you intended it to be.
If it was me, I would be inspecting the wiring very carefully to ensure it is wired up exactly as you intended and that there are no obvious signs of a short circuit, insulation rubbed off and touching the chassis.
Then I would completely disconnect the wiring of one panel from the rest of the system. Run the system with one panel for some time to check if the problem happens again.
If all is well, repeat the same test, disconnect the existing panel and wire in the other panel. Again leaving one panel and its wiring disconnected from the system.
Again, if all is well, you could have an nasty intermittent problem, or something that will only occur when both panels are connected.
The last step is to reconnect both panels to the system and carefully test.
If you don't have a DC clampmeter, now is the time to get one. You need to be able to measure the current in various parts of the wiring to see if you can diagnose what is happening.
Good luck.