Spot on @bigcol - it was more a saw a pic from Ford around it - will try and refind it in the next few days.
Seems pretty accepted to flip it (like the bottom pic) and it might give me enough of a drop.
Exterior Changing the ball hitch height
- Thread starter Macca_75
- Start date
Seems pretty accepted to flip it (like the bottom pic) and it might give me enough of a drop.
Some have a gusset on the tongue, those ones do stipulate that they only go one way, I suspect because the gusset is load bearing and besides would foul a WDH assembly.
So long as you use HT bolts it would be okay, the spacer should be no smaller than the hitch base, bolts tightened up well. Good to go.....if you get a shop bought one you are only assuming it has been certified, it probably hasn't ..
Insurance view? If we can get out of paying we will. If we can't, we will drag the process out to give the client an opportunity to give up....
I suppose it depends on how far you push with the insurance companies...The ombudsman is a good second last resort, and from experience works well...
The mod of raising the hitch actually improves safety if done properly, and ADR's have caused safety problems for the sake of keeping a 50mm ball at a stipulated height, go to a DO35 or other and the same rules don't exist.
The shear strength of the bolts doesn't change by adding a packer and using a longer bolt. The tensile strength of the bolts doesn't change if you use a packer..... The weak link is definitely the bolts not the packer.
As Drover said there are three points to note if using a packer....1 Ensure the same tensile strength of the bolts you are replacing, 2 Ensure the base of the packer is the same size or larger than the actual hitch (to prevent rotation) 3 Tighten up the bolts to the recommended torque (movement will lower the shear strength).
The main problem you might encounter is the travel of the hand-brake on the van...you may need to modify this...
My dad made his out of angle iron and it worked for years......until he totalled the van...by ripping his balls off....sorry ball off.....the actual ball sheared before the hitch bolts sheared, and that was 50x4 M.S. (four pieces welded together to make a sort of double square box section)....... The car ball will most probably shear before the vans hitch bolts.
I suppose it depends on how far you push with the insurance companies...The ombudsman is a good second last resort, and from experience works well...
The mod of raising the hitch actually improves safety if done properly, and ADR's have caused safety problems for the sake of keeping a 50mm ball at a stipulated height, go to a DO35 or other and the same rules don't exist.
The shear strength of the bolts doesn't change by adding a packer and using a longer bolt. The tensile strength of the bolts doesn't change if you use a packer..... The weak link is definitely the bolts not the packer.
As Drover said there are three points to note if using a packer....1 Ensure the same tensile strength of the bolts you are replacing, 2 Ensure the base of the packer is the same size or larger than the actual hitch (to prevent rotation) 3 Tighten up the bolts to the recommended torque (movement will lower the shear strength).
The main problem you might encounter is the travel of the hand-brake on the van...you may need to modify this...
My dad made his out of angle iron and it worked for years......until he totalled the van...by ripping his balls off....sorry ball off.....the actual ball sheared before the hitch bolts sheared, and that was 50x4 M.S. (four pieces welded together to make a sort of double square box section)....... The car ball will most probably shear before the vans hitch bolts.
This actually intrigues me......I know the van looks out of level if it isn't level...derrr....but does it effect ball weight???
Tomorrow I'll check my ball weight with my scales level and then throw a couple of blocks of timber under the scales to alter the height of the hitch and see what happens....Handbrake off.
My vans leaf spring dual axle....Anyone with single axle leaf spring or Jayco suspension able to do the same so we can compare?
Tomorrow I'll check my ball weight with my scales level and then throw a couple of blocks of timber under the scales to alter the height of the hitch and see what happens....Handbrake off.
My vans leaf spring dual axle....Anyone with single axle leaf spring or Jayco suspension able to do the same so we can compare?
I'm almost certain my ranger has that stipulated on the drawbar. Factory ford with the gusset and has a no no picture with the gussets facing up.
Our Prado has HD suspension and consequent 2" lift and I simply purchased a suitable (bigger step) tongue to suit our van, was like $60 from the trailer joint but my van isn't 3t either. I will say that the std cast Toyota hitch has its days numbered, it will be Hayman Reese hitch soon!!
Personally I would view a block under the receiver like lowering blocks on a leaf sprung HJ ute, not likely to give a drama in the day to day driving. but when you put it in that one time extreme event and it goes to poo those suits will be waving their fingers.
Cheers Max
I doubt if in an extreme case the block could cause any failure so long as both surfaces are flush to their relevant faces on hitch and bar with HT bolts nice and tight, be more likely the hitch would snap off............using packers at each bolt section would give cause for alarm but not a block covering the whole thing.
Just for the record, my concern is more load being put on the rear van axle(s) than the front van axle. (JTech suspension).
I'm pretty sure this is what I have seen - but can't see any more. Any chance you still have the sticker on the Ranger?
Just checked my ball weight with different height blocks under the scales, effectively changing ball height.... 50, 75, 125mm same ball weight. 215kg... (My boots pretty much empty hence the weight being low),
Looking at the physics of the issue I don't think axle load will change either...Its just that the suspension would be working at a slightly different angle...and considering how far the wheels are from the hitch and how close the wheels are to each other, I'd say there's negligible effect.
Having the van up a bit at the front may even be beneficial due to angling the van back and lowering wind resistance.
If my car and van look a bit silly...they'll match the looks of the driver.
Looking at the physics of the issue I don't think axle load will change either...Its just that the suspension would be working at a slightly different angle...and considering how far the wheels are from the hitch and how close the wheels are to each other, I'd say there's negligible effect.
Having the van up a bit at the front may even be beneficial due to angling the van back and lowering wind resistance.
If my car and van look a bit silly...they'll match the looks of the driver.
This is the sticker on my Everest, no sticker on my Ranger one with the gussets though.
Not enough change to centre of gravity @Dean Anderson to move the load plus the suspension wouldn't really notice it, hard braking on the other hand can momentarily make one axle set lighter causing brake lock up because of the change in the centre of gravity, or something like that anyway.....Been a long time between courses.
Looks like I either have it the wrong way or it doesnt matter on the ranger. Either way, I'm flipping it.
With Jtech on the OB model I am sure the rears are carrying more load
You"d be flipping mad not to(pun intended), hell of a lot easier than fitting the spacer block to the van.
@Herbertclan have you had the recall check done of the Prado's cast iron towbar? Had ours checked and passed but wasn't confident with the dealer's lack of knowledge on the subject so bit the bullet and fitted a HR bar to mine.
http://www.expandasdownunder.com/threads/prado-120-tow-hitch-recall.3897/
I think the front wheels will be always carrying more load otherwise the van would tip backwards and have negative ball weight?
50mm too high at the ball over 5m (5000mm) = 1% change = 3.6 degrees = a slightly undulating road....I don't think the effect with respect to change in centre of gravity or effect on the caravans suspension would really be noticeable.
The need for the car being level is a totally different story because of the steering. By weighing my ball weight at different lift amounts I have theoretically proven to myself that its primarily a cosmetic issue.
It just doesn't look right.
50mm too high at the ball over 5m (5000mm) = 1% change = 3.6 degrees = a slightly undulating road....I don't think the effect with respect to change in centre of gravity or effect on the caravans suspension would really be noticeable.
The need for the car being level is a totally different story because of the steering. By weighing my ball weight at different lift amounts I have theoretically proven to myself that its primarily a cosmetic issue.
It just doesn't look right.
I know what you mean @Dean Anderson but if that was the case on a semi you would be wearing out the front set on the trailer and rear drives way quicker than the rest but it's not so, the suspension does share the load so all axles take about the same loading otherwise you would be chucking tyres very quickly.