Brads 18.57.5 OB
- Thread starter Brad
- Start date
Hi Glenn
We almost went the slide out option. But then talking to others the feeling was how well would a seal of that size keep dirt and dust out on the outback model travelling on dirt roads.
Just confirm the weight it adds though. I reacon if I had have gone with this as well as all the extras we got I think I would have come too close to weight limits.
We almost went the slide out option. But then talking to others the feeling was how well would a seal of that size keep dirt and dust out on the outback model travelling on dirt roads.
Just confirm the weight it adds though. I reacon if I had have gone with this as well as all the extras we got I think I would have come too close to weight limits.
G'Day Brad,
Thanks for that, we did go the Slide Out as majority of our travels will be on sealed roads & a bit more room around the table for the 3 Rugrats on the wet days that they have to spend time indoors, as well we went the bed converter so this bed is a little bigger. I do know somebody with 2 slide outs on the RV Jayco Fiat and has had no probs.
Thanks Mate Cheers
Thanks for that, we did go the Slide Out as majority of our travels will be on sealed roads & a bit more room around the table for the 3 Rugrats on the wet days that they have to spend time indoors, as well we went the bed converter so this bed is a little bigger. I do know somebody with 2 slide outs on the RV Jayco Fiat and has had no probs.
Thanks Mate Cheers
So this weekend has been productive.
First on the list was a complete rework of the pipes under the van.
I went with 40mm pipes and ran one way valves on the vanity basin, shower and washing machine lines. I opted not to run a one way valve on the kitchen sink.
This is the pipe work starting from the washing machine end. The down pipe for the washing machine is on the outside of the main chassis. Hence the elaborate routing to get the pipe work to the inside of the main draw bar. The bulge to the right is the first of the one way valves. The height of pipe work is perfect as you will see in a couple of pics to follow.
This is the washing machine pipe work going down the left side of the chassis rail.
Pipe work continuing from washing machine down the back of van. The 40mm pipe fits perfectly through the square section of the chassis rail and provides a heap of stability to the line.
Pipe work now comes across to right hand side of the van. In the pic, the kitchen sink is picked up.
Pipe work continues across to right hand side of the van. Here you see the vanity basin being picked up. Note the second of the one way valves installed. Also note to the right of the pic the single outlet point that the flexible hose connects to.
We are now one the back right hand side of the van where you can see the new outlet point for the flexible hose. Note the pipe work continuing past the outlet point. This is to pick up the shower line.
And finally, the connection from the shower in the back most corner of the van. The pipe work for this connects up to the other side of the outlet point of the flexible hose.
Here is the new larger flexible hose. The 40mm pipe fits tightly around the flexible hose. Which means it is easy to just insert the piece of pipe attached to the flexible hose into the system under the van. If I ever need to run a longer piece of flexible hose, then it is easy to connect two pieces of hose together with an off cut piece of 40 mm pipe that I have put away for this purpose.
First on the list was a complete rework of the pipes under the van.
I went with 40mm pipes and ran one way valves on the vanity basin, shower and washing machine lines. I opted not to run a one way valve on the kitchen sink.
This is the pipe work starting from the washing machine end. The down pipe for the washing machine is on the outside of the main chassis. Hence the elaborate routing to get the pipe work to the inside of the main draw bar. The bulge to the right is the first of the one way valves. The height of pipe work is perfect as you will see in a couple of pics to follow.
This is the washing machine pipe work going down the left side of the chassis rail.
Pipe work continuing from washing machine down the back of van. The 40mm pipe fits perfectly through the square section of the chassis rail and provides a heap of stability to the line.
Pipe work now comes across to right hand side of the van. In the pic, the kitchen sink is picked up.
Pipe work continues across to right hand side of the van. Here you see the vanity basin being picked up. Note the second of the one way valves installed. Also note to the right of the pic the single outlet point that the flexible hose connects to.
We are now one the back right hand side of the van where you can see the new outlet point for the flexible hose. Note the pipe work continuing past the outlet point. This is to pick up the shower line.
And finally, the connection from the shower in the back most corner of the van. The pipe work for this connects up to the other side of the outlet point of the flexible hose.
Here is the new larger flexible hose. The 40mm pipe fits tightly around the flexible hose. Which means it is easy to just insert the piece of pipe attached to the flexible hose into the system under the van. If I ever need to run a longer piece of flexible hose, then it is easy to connect two pieces of hose together with an off cut piece of 40 mm pipe that I have put away for this purpose.
My second job for the weekend was as a result of seeing all of the exposed raw timber under the van.
So I got myself a good tube of silicone and became Jayco factory for the day. I emptied an entire tube under the van on anything with raw exposed timber. I covered any protruding screws and went back over some of the larger silicone jobs Jayco themselves did where I was not happy with full coverage in filling the holes.
So I got myself a good tube of silicone and became Jayco factory for the day. I emptied an entire tube under the van on anything with raw exposed timber. I covered any protruding screws and went back over some of the larger silicone jobs Jayco themselves did where I was not happy with full coverage in filling the holes.
Third job for the weekend was the start of the slide out system for the weber Q.
I purchased a couple of slide out fridge drawer arms. They can hold 100kgs.
We got to finishing welding up the brackets that will be mounted to the floor of the van and then attached to the slide out drawer arms.
More pics to follow....
I purchased a couple of slide out fridge drawer arms. They can hold 100kgs.
We got to finishing welding up the brackets that will be mounted to the floor of the van and then attached to the slide out drawer arms.
More pics to follow....
Nice work brad, you seem to get more hours out of your weekend than I do! Where did you get your one way valves and connectors for the plastic tubing from? Did you test out the system with a full length of sullage attached, if so did it drain quicker?
Cheers.
Cheers.
Hi Brad, Nice pipework there. Looks like a bit of time spent under there. I know when I am under mine, I look at stuff and shake my head, but I think all caravans are the same.
You have gone to a lot of trouble to prevent back flow. You can buy an inline trap which while not a non return valve, may have been easier to install and would have resulted in an easier job with a lot less fittings which saves $$$$
Posted a pic in case anyone else wants to do similar. Very neat job you did.
Cheers Geoff
You have gone to a lot of trouble to prevent back flow. You can buy an inline trap which while not a non return valve, may have been easier to install and would have resulted in an easier job with a lot less fittings which saves $$$$
Posted a pic in case anyone else wants to do similar. Very neat job you did.
Cheers Geoff
I got my one way valves from an irrigation shop. Total Eden was the name of the shop close to home. All other items I got from bunnings. I think I spent around $250 for the total fit out between bunnings and Total Eden. The one way valves being by far the most expensive component. I purchased a single length of 6 meter pipe for the entire job and had a couple of meters left. I ran the system to check it all worked, but I really could not tell you if it drained quicker or not. All I know is two things...
1. Whilst the size pipe work Jayco uses seems the size, it is actually smaller because the fittings between plastic tubes is a lot smaller.
2. I cannot believe the lack of glue used in the Jayco pipe work. A token effort. Now the pipe work will never move!!
Hi Geoff.
I looked at a few different check valves and the main reason I opted for the one I went with was due to the mechanism inside. There is a small disk held in place by a rubber hinge. The water can easily push the disk up and out of the way in one direction, but obviously water going in the other direction will just push it shut.
The other version I looked at was a disk held in place by a spring. When I pushed the disk with my finger it took a lot more pressure to move the disk out of the way. Not to mention the complexity behind the spring which I feared if something did fall into the drain that it would not wash away but rather get lodged in the spring works that the water would need to run through in the valve in order to drain away.
So whatever valve used, I would suggest just understanding the mechanics of it and have a think about what would happen if an object fell down the drain and how easy it would pass through the valve.
Some more progress has been made on the weber slide out draw tonight.
I must say I can't take the credit with this on this one. My father got tinkering on this mod for me.
You need to use your imagination in these pics, but imagine you are looking at these pics as if you are inside the van looking out through the front hatch. The square tube standing on the bench represents the side of the hatch opening.
This first pic shows the weber positioned inside the van. Note when this is mounted, the lid will be stored separate to the base.
The second pic shows the weber extended out before it is swiveled into place.
And this last pic shows the weber swiveled to its final position where BBQ bliss begins.
There are still a couple of things to work out, but concept is proven enough to mount into the van.
I must say I can't take the credit with this on this one. My father got tinkering on this mod for me.
You need to use your imagination in these pics, but imagine you are looking at these pics as if you are inside the van looking out through the front hatch. The square tube standing on the bench represents the side of the hatch opening.
This first pic shows the weber positioned inside the van. Note when this is mounted, the lid will be stored separate to the base.
The second pic shows the weber extended out before it is swiveled into place.
And this last pic shows the weber swiveled to its final position where BBQ bliss begins.
There are still a couple of things to work out, but concept is proven enough to mount into the van.
Not much imagination, so climbed into hatch with iPad. Now all clear. Fantastic job. Only complete lack of skill prevents me doing the same. You're setting the bar pretty high Brad and very generous in sharing with step by step pics.
Really well Geoff. If anything I wish the remote did a few more things but apart from that, I am happy with the way it has turned out.
Hi Brad
Amazing stuff your doing there!
Thanks for sharing all the brainstorming going on.
can i ask about your front storage box and gas bottle alterations?
is it an "off the shelf" box and if so, where did you get it and how much please?
i am wondering if i could do the same thing to my 17.56.1 when it arrives
is the width the same for both the 17 and 18 series? and how much does it clear the hatch by
looks like a perfect fit!
Also re the spare wheel, how did you mount it to the rear of the van?
have seen a great looking one on another thread that zero is making, was it one of those?
sorry to bombard you like this but i am really keen to see if i can get jayco to set my gas bottles in the same location as yours and just add the box when the van arrives!
i know its a big ask of jayco but can only try!
what do you think?
Amazing stuff your doing there!
Thanks for sharing all the brainstorming going on.
can i ask about your front storage box and gas bottle alterations?
is it an "off the shelf" box and if so, where did you get it and how much please?
i am wondering if i could do the same thing to my 17.56.1 when it arrives
is the width the same for both the 17 and 18 series? and how much does it clear the hatch by
looks like a perfect fit!
Also re the spare wheel, how did you mount it to the rear of the van?
have seen a great looking one on another thread that zero is making, was it one of those?
sorry to bombard you like this but i am really keen to see if i can get jayco to set my gas bottles in the same location as yours and just add the box when the van arrives!
i know its a big ask of jayco but can only try!
what do you think?
Hi HtR
Firstly, this mod only works if you have gone with the extended drawbar.
The front box was custom made. There were some key design points in the box.
1. To keep weight down I went with a thinner sheet. But to retain strength I had them weld square section framework on the base of the box. The base is secured to the old plates the gas bottles sat on so it is important that the square section ran over these points in order to secured the box firmly.
2. The door hinges upwards from the front and stops when the door is horizontal. This ensures the door never hits the fold out bed. It was important to make sure the hinge was mounted in such a way that when the door was fully open that the profile of the door never went higher that the top of the box. Doing this ensured I could specify an overall height with small tolerances between fold out bed and box.
3. I allowed only a 5 cm gap between the draw bar and fold out bed when specifying the height of the box.
I paid $750 for the box and I wish I could remember the name of the toolbox shop, but it was up near Chadstone on Dandenong road between Warrigul and Atkinson Street. They did a really good job.
In terms of the gas bottles, my suggestion is to place these after you place the box as it is a tight fit.
The gas bottles sit on a custom plate that was welded up at home with two new gas bottle holders attached. On top of that, I had to cut the two large rings that the brake cable runs through and replace them with a flat plate so that the rings did not protrude so far into the center space of the a frame. Best way i can describe this is before changing, the cables ran through a hole the shape of an O. After changing, the cables run through a hole the shape of a D. Without doing that, there would not be enough space to fit the gas bottles side by side.
The rear wheel tyre carrier was purchased from award RV and simply bolted to the existing bumper bar.
I have no idea if the 18 is the same width as the 17, but when I specified measurements for all of this I also did not have the van yet. It was the weekend of the Melbourne caravan show. So I took a tape measure to the show and spent a good hour with a tape measure working out my sizes. People must have wondered what I was up to crawling around on my knees with a tape measure and a piece of paper.
Firstly, this mod only works if you have gone with the extended drawbar.
The front box was custom made. There were some key design points in the box.
1. To keep weight down I went with a thinner sheet. But to retain strength I had them weld square section framework on the base of the box. The base is secured to the old plates the gas bottles sat on so it is important that the square section ran over these points in order to secured the box firmly.
2. The door hinges upwards from the front and stops when the door is horizontal. This ensures the door never hits the fold out bed. It was important to make sure the hinge was mounted in such a way that when the door was fully open that the profile of the door never went higher that the top of the box. Doing this ensured I could specify an overall height with small tolerances between fold out bed and box.
3. I allowed only a 5 cm gap between the draw bar and fold out bed when specifying the height of the box.
I paid $750 for the box and I wish I could remember the name of the toolbox shop, but it was up near Chadstone on Dandenong road between Warrigul and Atkinson Street. They did a really good job.
In terms of the gas bottles, my suggestion is to place these after you place the box as it is a tight fit.
The gas bottles sit on a custom plate that was welded up at home with two new gas bottle holders attached. On top of that, I had to cut the two large rings that the brake cable runs through and replace them with a flat plate so that the rings did not protrude so far into the center space of the a frame. Best way i can describe this is before changing, the cables ran through a hole the shape of an O. After changing, the cables run through a hole the shape of a D. Without doing that, there would not be enough space to fit the gas bottles side by side.
The rear wheel tyre carrier was purchased from award RV and simply bolted to the existing bumper bar.
I have no idea if the 18 is the same width as the 17, but when I specified measurements for all of this I also did not have the van yet. It was the weekend of the Melbourne caravan show. So I took a tape measure to the show and spent a good hour with a tape measure working out my sizes. People must have wondered what I was up to crawling around on my knees with a tape measure and a piece of paper.
Brad , your a legend!
Thanks very much for going to so much detail, i really appreciate it and am going to have a crack at copying if you dont mind when mine arrives!
i will try to look up the company who made ur box as they may recall or even have kept plans of the one they did for you. Its perfect.
I do have the extended draw bar so hopefully the 17 series is much the same as your 18 re brakes etc.
did you weld to the chasis for the gas bottle mod or bolt something? i am a little worried about warranty so may try to come up with a bolted option!
i might try to order the new gas bottle holders with the van just loose that i can fit later.
could i trouble you a bit more for some more pics of the rear bar detail and some detailed photos of the front draw bar?
if its not too much trouble it would really make things easier but i understand if its too difficult
If you dont mind i may need to pick ur brain a liitle as i go!
Thanks again for your help Brad.
Peter
Thanks very much for going to so much detail, i really appreciate it and am going to have a crack at copying if you dont mind when mine arrives!
i will try to look up the company who made ur box as they may recall or even have kept plans of the one they did for you. Its perfect.
I do have the extended draw bar so hopefully the 17 series is much the same as your 18 re brakes etc.
did you weld to the chasis for the gas bottle mod or bolt something? i am a little worried about warranty so may try to come up with a bolted option!
i might try to order the new gas bottle holders with the van just loose that i can fit later.
could i trouble you a bit more for some more pics of the rear bar detail and some detailed photos of the front draw bar?
if its not too much trouble it would really make things easier but i understand if its too difficult
If you dont mind i may need to pick ur brain a liitle as i go!
Thanks again for your help Brad.
Peter