Solar The Solar Panel Thread

[Boots in Action]

Hi @Crusty181,
here is my understanding. Sorry for the long explanation.

With a single panel, there is a maximum short circuit current and a maximum open circuit voltage.
At the maximum short circuit current, the output voltage will be zero and thus the power output (volts x amps) will be 0 Watts. Similarly, at the maximum open circuit voltage, the current will be 0 Amps and again the power output will be 0 Watts.

But somewhere between these two extremes is a value for Voltage and Current that gives the Maximum power output.
This is usually stated on the Solar panel certificate on the back of the panel: Maximum Power (Pmax), Maximum Power Voltage (Vpm), and Maximum Power Current (Ipm).

However, this varies due things such as Temperature and the amount of solar power hitting the panel.
An MPPT controller works by choosing a load to put on the panel and then varying it slightly one way or the other.
If one of these attempts results in a higher power output, the regulator varies the load to the higher value. This continues until the controller finds a load, that when varied in either direction results in a lower power output from the panel.

If you put two dissimilar panels in parallel (i.e different Vpm), the MPPT controller will still find a setting for maximum power output of both panels, but it will probably not be the points where each panel would be individually efficient.

If you have different panels and want the Maximum efficiency from each panel, one should have a separate MPPT controller on each panel. But, if one considers costs that is not likely to be the most economic. Given the cost of good MPPT controllers I would consider, first finding an additional panel with about the same Vpm and connecting them in parallel ensuring they have blocking diodes.
Otherwise, I would buy an extra panel, whatever was good value, but oversize it by about 10% to allow for the fact that a single MPPT controller may not extract the maximum efficiency. I would think this would be cheaper and simpler than having two MPPT controllers.

Just a note, many cheap so-called MPPT controllers are just PWM controllers. If you look inside and cannot see a quite big coil (inductor) it cannot be an MPPT controller.

cheers
Mike

Hi @mikerezny , I like your explanation and have just placed a similar thread a few minutes ago. Should have read yours first. However, the site I was following did not see a problem with PARALLEL connection using MPPT controller, probably because most?? good panels would be close in voltage output under load. However, it did say there was likely to be a drop in total output if differing wattage panels were connected in SERIES. I will find the site tomorrow when I am more awake and let you know so you can tell me what you think.
Also great stuff in warning members about the "fake" wrongly advertised MPPT solar controllers. I recently bought a 30A MPPT controller from C Trade in NSW on Ebay for $145.00. The first thing I did was to open the back and was pleased to see a huge coil inductor. It also has a 2 year Aust warranty. I will be testing same fully in 2 weeks when I am away. Cheers.

 

[Crusty181]

Thanks @Boots in Action, its certainly make its easier and more confident to read quantifiable opinions. Great inputs from both yourself and @mikerezny

It did mention that in a SERIES connection with a 150 w and a 80 w, the current produced would be limited to what was able to go through the lesser wattage panel and would not be the best way to go. It did not explain why. Can anyone confirm this???

I cant confirm what your asking but that opinion was certainly 100% consistent across everything I read ... and Ive been reading a lot. Parallel efficiency requires identical voltage, and with series efficiency its the wattage. ( just because, is the best I can offer)

I had some feedback from a Australian based solar supplying who stated so long as the same voltage, mis-matched wattage panels are parallel connected before the controller, the controller will see the input as one combine input.

In regards to your apparent reduced power via the mppt, I watched a Youtube video of a practical test in semi controlled conditions which did precisely what you did and obtained similar controller displayed results; but when the controller outputs were tested with independent equipment the outputs weren't consistent eith what the cheap controllers were displaying. The PWM was indicating a significant higher output that it was found to be producing through the independent equipment.

Sneaking Chinamen stacking the scoreboard. Bit like performance enhancing drugs for solar controllers

So it will interesting to see how you go testing the outputs

 

[Boots in Action]

Thanks @Boots in Action, its certainly make its easier and more confident to read quantifiable opinions. Great inputs from both yourself and @mikerezny



I cant confirm what your asking but that opinion was certainly 100% consistent across everything I read ... and Ive been reading a lot. Parallel efficiency requires identical voltage, and with series efficiency its the wattage. ( just because, is the best I can offer)

I had some feedback from a Australian based solar supplying who stated so long as the same voltage, mis-matched wattage panels are parallel connected before the controller, the controller will see the input as one combine input.

In regards to your apparent reduced power via the mppt, I watched a Youtube video of a practical test in semi controlled conditions which did precisely what you did and obtained similar controller displayed results; but when the controller outputs were tested with independent equipment the outputs weren't consistent eith what the cheap controllers were displaying. The PWM was indicating a significant higher output that it was found to be producing through the independent equipment.

Sneaking Chinamen stacking the scoreboard. Bit like performance enhancing drugs for solar controllers

So it will interesting to see how you go testing the outputs

Hi @Crusty181 and @mikerezny , here is the link I have been following about MPPT solar controllers. Perhaps you have been doing the same. I particularly watched the various videos by www.altestore.com because it gave several videos on different connection of panels with visible measurements. The American woman is good at explaining too. There are so many variables including tilt angle, temperature on glass etc, but the "theory" of MPPT indicates better efficiency than PWM under same conditions especially if battery voltage is low. My full test results should be available after 30th July when I get back. Should be VERY, VERY, interesting. Photos will be provided too!!
The general link to all the info is:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=mppt+solar+controller+reviews

You will be better than an "arm chair expert" after watching through all the tests!!

 

[Drover]

Look forward to your test results, always like real world testing they seem to give a better picture than bench or magazine tests.........my Pro Star seems to do a good job,your results @Boots in Action I might be able to see if it's worth the money to upgrade to a MPPT unit now that I've redone all the connections.....

 

[Boots in Action]

Look forward to your test results, always like real world testing they seem to give a better picture than bench or magazine tests.........my Pro Star seems to do a good job,your results @Boots in Action I might be able to see if it's worth the money to upgrade to a MPPT unit now that I've redone all the connections.....

Hi @Drover , it will be an even more extensive test/s as I have just ordered another panel, this one is 200w and vmp is 18.5v, the same voltage as my original 180w panel. I will be able to test results (both SERIES and PARALLEL) with a mix of 3 different panels on wattage and voltage. The 80w panel is rated at 17.5v vmp. I am really looking forward to do this FULL "real world" test not only for myself but for many others. It will have full details of each solar panel so you will be able to see what is being tested. Stay tuned. If any member wants a particular test done for their own satisfaction or situation, please let me know by pm FRIDAY 21st July.

 

[Boots in Action]

I want to add upto another 300-500w in a couple of panels to my current single 150w system, and somewhere I recall a comment about needing to match wattage, same for same. Ive been reading a number of articles, and searching the Inter Wide Google Web and the common consensus is whilst connected in series this is true, connected in parallel its only required to match panels in max voltage, with watts not entering into consideration.

I could just remove my 150w and add a couple of 250's, but if it doesnt cause any issues I may as well keep it

From the articles Ive found Im yet to find a detractor from the "who cares about the watts camp". Does anyone have any practical knowledge, or peripheral issues that impact negatively.

Hello @Crusty181 , you will have all those answers by the end of the month after my field testing. See latest thread regarding me purchasing another panel (200w at 18.5v) which will closely match my current large panel which is 180w and 18.5v - so very close!!!

 

[Drover]

Well keep it simple for us when you do up the report @Boots in Action , get too techo and our eye's roll back....lol,lol..........last trip away I just checked things but didn't go techo and 150 on roof, 120 on ground was enough for us but could do with extra storage just to ensure a bit of backup, so a new battery is in order but I did think an extra 150 on roof would help, my Engel runs off the panels on the Ute so doesn't drain the van stuff.

 

[Crusty181]

Hello @Crusty181 , you will have all those answers by the end of the month after my field testing. See latest thread regarding me purchasing another panel (200w at 18.5v) which will closely match my current large panel which is 180w and 18.5v - so very close!!!

I'm an active advocate of others fixing my mistakes .... before I make them. I planned on getting it very, very wrong; so many thanks in advance

 

[mikerezny]

Hi,
in the past few days I have been giving some thought to connecting different wattage solar panels in series. I suspected it is not a good idea but couldn't come up with a convincing argument.

Firstly, solar panels are a power source and somewhat similar to a battery. Secondly, take the difference in wattage out to extremes.
Consider trying to start a 24V truck which has two very high capacity (CCA) 12V batteries where one battery has died.
But you have a small good 5Ah 12V gel battery lying around. So you wire this small battery in series with the one good high CCA 12V battery. That will give you 24V so all should be good! Hit the starter, what would you expect? It is unlikely that it will work. In the extreme, with such a high load, the wiring in effect will be reverse connecting the small battery across the large battery. So, if you kept the starter on fro too long, the small battery would be fried and may explode.

It will not be all that different with two solar panels with different wattages. The most you can expect to work correctly will be to limit the current to no more than the capacity of the smaller panel. But the larger panel will not be working at full efficiency.
Again, take an extreme scenario. two 18.5Vpm panels. one 185W, the other 18.5W. At peak, the 185W panel could deliver 10A, but the small panel will deliver 1A. If the controller tried to pull 10A from this setup, the smaller panel, only capable of handling 1A would be having 10A pushed through it. Not a good idea.

@Boots in Action. If you are going to do some experiments with two similar panels wired in series and parallel, you will need to use cable heavy enough so there is insignificant voltage drop across them. Otherwise your results will be a mixture of MPPT efficiency and power loss through the cables. The series connection will draw half the current of the parallel connection and thus have half the voltage drop.

Winter is probably not a good time to do this experiment since it may be problematic to get enough consistent sunshine to conduct the number of experiments.

You will also have to consider the load you will be using. Charging a battery with no load will not work since at some point the battery will be charged and the controller will reduce the charge. I would suggest putting a constant load on the battery consistent with the maximum wattage of the panels. Do you have anything that will draw 300-400W?

cheers
Mike

 

[Boots in Action]

Well keep it simple for us when you do up the report @Boots in Action , get too techo and our eye's roll back....lol,lol..........last trip away I just checked things but didn't go techo and 150 on roof, 120 on ground was enough for us but could do with extra storage just to ensure a bit of backup, so a new battery is in order but I did think an extra 150 on roof would help, my Engel runs off the panels on the Ute so doesn't drain the van stuff.

Hi @Drover , thanks for the warning. You will get the facts Man and ONLY the facts, so it will be up to you on how you interpret them. I may provide an overall impression, but that's all. The only time I think an older "experienced campaigner" like you would roll your eyes back would be when a pretty girl in a bikini walked by you at Cooloola, or you had had too much of the "cold" stuff!!! You are more than capable of analyzing facts and figures!!! @mikerezny is pretty good at techo stuff too!!

 

[Drover]

Well @Boots in Action , for an old Jack of All trades, I can get into the techo much to the surprise of my Grandkids but being retired my grey cells need resting and I really only care if it works or not now, beach time is more important. The eye's roll back at the bikini's viewed because Mrs D has whacked the back of my head, lol,lol.............and @mikerezny I liked your post above, yep I know what you mean, nowadays I look at it , if I have150w panel on line and add another 150w if I only get 285w out of it, well it's still more than the 150w at the start, I had a great site with all this stuff, bench marks and real world, it's here somewhere, think it said 150 look at it for 105 but if I can't afford to buy it then it dunna matta.
Back in the analogue days the battery died out bush, you gave it a push start and the 2 dolphin batteries you had hooked up would keep the engine going for about 8 hrs.......didn't matter in a diesel push and go, now I would just pull out the BiC lighter.

(The 150w, 285w is only an illustration )

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi,
in the past few days I have been giving some thought to connecting different wattage solar panels in series. I suspected it is not a good idea but couldn't come up with a convincing argument.

Firstly, solar panels are a power source and somewhat similar to a battery. Secondly, take the difference in wattage out to extremes.
Consider trying to start a 24V truck which has two very high capacity (CCA) 12V batteries where one battery has died.
But you have a small good 5Ah 12V gel battery lying around. So you wire this small battery in series with the one good high CCA 12V battery. That will give you 24V so all should be good! Hit the starter, what would you expect? It is unlikely that it will work. In the extreme, with such a high load, the wiring in effect will be reverse connecting the small battery across the large battery. So, if you kept the starter on fro too long, the small battery would be fried and may explode.

It will not be all that different with two solar panels with different wattages. The most you can expect to work correctly will be to limit the current to no more than the capacity of the smaller panel. But the larger panel will not be working at full efficiency.
Again, take an extreme scenario. two 18.5Vpm panels. one 185W, the other 18.5W. At peak, the 185W panel could deliver 10A, but the small panel will deliver 1A. If the controller tried to pull 10A from this setup, the smaller panel, only capable of handling 1A would be having 10A pushed through it. Not a good idea.

@Boots in Action. If you are going to do some experiments with two similar panels wired in series and parallel, you will need to use cable heavy enough so there is insignificant voltage drop across them. Otherwise your results will be a mixture of MPPT efficiency and power loss through the cables. The series connection will draw half the current of the parallel connection and thus have half the voltage drop.

Winter is probably not a good time to do this experiment since it may be problematic to get enough consistent sunshine to conduct the number of experiments.

You will also have to consider the load you will be using. Charging a battery with no load will not work since at some point the battery will be charged and the controller will reduce the charge. I would suggest putting a constant load on the battery consistent with the maximum wattage of the panels. Do you have anything that will draw 300-400W?

cheers
Mike

Hi @mikerezny, I had a feeling you would want to put in your own suggestions and here we are. YOU are going to love dissecting the figures I provide from these field tests as much as I will. I agree with you entirely on the first two paragraphs and that is why I have purchased another solar panel that is much, much closer in wattage and the same vmp as the other large panel I have. The point about cabling is noted, but will not be a problem as I have 8 mm wire that I use between the panels and the controller, not the usual 6 mm cable that is normally around.All connections are with Anderson plugs too. In any case, that would only be a problem when connecting in parallel at the lower panel voltage (around 18v). The loss in the same cable used when connected in series when there is the higher voltage (around 36v) would be very very low.
Winter in Queensland is much different to Victoria. I spent 11 years down there, so know what you are going through. Up here in SUNNY (most times!!) Queensland, we do get consistent sunshine even if the temp drops below 20C during the day. Tomorrow, Brisbane is looking at 26C, warm and sunny too. I just hope you do not send up that cold icy weather you have been having lately!! Even it that does occur, it will be fine and sunny if colder, but that will help solar production too.
I was thinking about the load factor and was going to do two tests - one with no load and another with a standard load of about 2.5 amps which would be my normal average drain. To make sure that the battery will not be fully charged before I start, I intend to disconnect solar panel charging and run down my battery until it reaches 12.4 volts or around that figure. As the testing time will be short, there will be insufficient time for solar panels to bring the battery up to full or float situation and should remain on bulk and/or absorb charge during testing. That should provide a charging load plus an accessories load for the 30A MPPT controller to work on. I am only going to use the 80 watt panel for interest sake to see the difference so others can work things out for themselves. Incidentally, ALL panel controllers have been disconnected/bypassed and ALL power goes to my one and only controller in the van. I will provide pictures for all to see.
Thanks for the input. If you have ANY further suggestions or ideas, please let me know.
Cheers ...Graham

 

[Boots in Action]

Well @Boots in Action , for an old Jack of All trades, I can get into the techo much to the surprise of my Grandkids but being retired my grey cells need resting and I really only care if it works or not now, beach time is more important. The eye's roll back at the bikini's viewed because Mrs D has whacked the back of my head, lol,lol.............and @mikerezny I liked your post above, yep I know what you mean, nowadays I look at it , if I have150w panel on line and add another 150w if I only get 285w out of it, well it's still more than the 150w at the start, I had a great site with all this stuff, bench marks and real world, it's here somewhere, think it said 150 look at it for 105 but if I can't afford to buy it then it dunna matta.
Back in the analogue days the battery died out bush, you gave it a push start and the 2 dolphin batteries you had hooked up would keep the engine going for about 8 hrs.......didn't matter in a diesel push and go, now I would just pull out the BiC lighter.

(The 150w, 285w is only an illustration )

I sympathize with you @Drover , but that is the cost of "progress". Like you, both retired, we HAVE to try to keep up, otherwise we will be left behind, so far behind in fact, that we would be in a different world. Technology rolls on, and we either get with it or get rolled over by it. It is a struggle sometimes, but I have my day when my two grown up daughters with my grandsons come to me to fix things. They may be technologically ahead of me sometimes, but when it comes to practical application and mechanical knowledge, it is my turn to shine. Nothing like the smiles from the grandchildren when "Pa" fixes things for them. A good education in physics and chemistry in my earlier life is a definite advantage but not a necessity Sorry, getting off subject now. But cheer up. Mrs D still loves you even when you head is clobbered!!! .

 

[Drover]

We can wander OT for a little, I like it when Dad gets bypassed for Poppy to fix the computer/car, well it is good but I think Dad is passing the buck sometimes...........................Actually find engines easier to fix and maintain than years ago and one of my fav tools is the old multi meter followed by the hammer.

 

[Boots in Action]

We can wander OT for a little, I like it when Dad gets bypassed for Poppy to fix the computer/car, well it is good but I think Dad is passing the buck sometimes...........................Actually find engines easier to fix and maintain than years ago and one of my fav tools is the old multi meter followed by the hammer.

Hi @ Drover, I agree with you entirely. When working on van electrics, the most important tool to have is the old multimeter, and perhaps a wiring diagram!!

 

[mikerezny]

Well @Boots in Action , for an old Jack of All trades, I can get into the techo much to the surprise of my Grandkids but being retired my grey cells need resting and I really only care if it works or not now, beach time is more important. The eye's roll back at the bikini's viewed because Mrs D has whacked the back of my head, lol,lol.............and @mikerezny I liked your post above, yep I know what you mean, nowadays I look at it , if I have150w panel on line and add another 150w if I only get 285w out of it, well it's still more than the 150w at the start, I had a great site with all this stuff, bench marks and real world, it's here somewhere, think it said 150 look at it for 105 but if I can't afford to buy it then it dunna matta.
Back in the analogue days the battery died out bush, you gave it a push start and the 2 dolphin batteries you had hooked up would keep the engine going for about 8 hrs.......didn't matter in a diesel push and go, now I would just pull out the BiC lighter.

(The 150w, 285w is only an illustration )

Hi @Drover and @Boots in Action,
I was washing the Penguin this morning and in between the 'wax on' and 'wax off cycles' let my mind wander.
So. the following are some philosophical musings best read looking out to sea on a good day and with a cold beer.

First thought: I have had the Penuin for about 8 months and it has been washed and cleaned more times then I washed and cleaned a previous brand new Ford Falcon I owned for over 10 years. Why does my van get lavished with more attention then my car? I couldn't really find an answer.

Now, before being accused of wandering off topic:

Second thought. I started thinking about all the problems, solutions, and discussions about various topics about vans. In reality, they are mostly not complex problems and most have relatively simple solutions once the problem is well understood.

The two examples that come quickly to mind are three way fridges and 12V systems in vans, including solar panels and the mystery around the Setec unit.
Many people have difficulties with these and other issues whilst others conquer them easily in their stride and move on. In Julius Sumner Miller mode: "Why is this so?"
One answer: Take vehicles. In the old days one had to have a reasonable understanding in order to keep a car running. You were expected to understand the use of advance and retard for ignition timing, check and add oil, water, look at battery water levels, change light bulbs, tyres, fan belts, water pumps, fix radiator leaks if you wanted to get from A to B. Nowadays, we rarely do any of these and in the latest road safety blurb, it is advised to NOT change a flat tyre on the road but call roadside assist. Probably because of people being killed by other vehicles. So we have moved on and enjoy much more reliable vehicles and can mostly get around without knowing much at all about what makes a car tick. In fact, cars are so complex now that in the somewhat rare event that they break down it is unlikely any of us can get it going again.

Now take caravans. These are NOT even close to being like modern day cars and need a HUGE amount of experience and knowledge to keep them ticking over, much like the early car era. A lot of us gained this knowledge over previous years tinkering about probably in our youth. But I suspect many people buying caravans these days do not have this knowledge and experience and the caravan manufacturers do not supply systems that are anywhere near as robust as those found in modern vehicles. This forum provides an excellent place for people to get help with problems they don't understand. But is it enough? I suspect not. How can people new to caravaning be empowered to get the skills to help identify and solve problems themselves.
Caravanning is about getting out and about and often off the beaten track. Things will stop working. It is a rugged hostile environment and since caravans are still somewhat unreliable, it is imperative that people be able to fix things as needed. It is to far away and inconvenient to go racing back to the dealer every time something goes wrong!

Perhaps it is already done, I don't know. But I think it would be a good idea to arrange something like a group meet on a semi regular basis where, over a weekend, people with little experience in caravaning could come and be shown some of the basic skills needed to keep them going by those that have already acquired them.

Opps, that will probably take two or three beers.

cheers
Mike

 

[mikerezny]

Hi @ Drover, I agree with you entirely. When working on van electrics, the most important tool to have is the old multimeter, and perhaps a wiring diagram!!

Hi @Boots in Action,
AND the knowledge needed to use a multimeter and read a circuit diagram. There are many many people who want to enjoy having a caravan, but have absolutely no experience in this and the other many facets of keeping a van working. It is not their fault, and even if they want to get these skills is there a "Dummies guide to Caravaning" available to start with?

cheers
Mike

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi @Drover and @Boots in Action,
I was washing the Penguin this morning and in between the 'wax on' and 'wax off cycles' let my mind wander.
So. the following are some philosophical musings best read looking out to see on a good day and with a cold beer.

First thought: I have had the Penuin for about 8 months and it has been washed and cleaned more times then I washed and cleaned a previous brand new Ford Falcon I owned for over 10 years. Why does my van get lavished with more attention then my car? I couldn't really find an answer.

Now, before being accused of wandering off topic:

Second thought. I started thinking about all the problems, solutions, and discussions about various topics about vans. In reality, they are mostly not complex problems and most have relatively simple solutions once the problem is well understood.

The two examples that come quickly to mind are three way fridges and 12V systems in vans, including solar panels and the mystery around the Setec unit.
Many people have difficulties with these and other issues whilst others conquer them easily in their stride and move on. In Julies Sumner Miller mode: "Why is this so?"
One answer: Take vehicles. In the old days one had to have a reasonable understanding in order to keep a car running. You were expected to understand the use of advance and retard for ignition timing, check and add oil, water, look at battery water levels, change light bulbs, tyres, fan belts, water pumps, fix radiator leaks if you wanted to get from A to B. Nowadays, we rarely do any of these and in the latest road safety blurb, it is advised to NOT change a flat tyre on the road but call roadside assist. Probably because of people being killed by other vehicles. So we have moved on and enjoy much more reliable vehicles and can mostly get around without knowing much at all about what makes a car tick. In fact, cars are so complex now that in the somewhat rare event that they break down it is unlikely any of us can get it going again.

Now take caravans. These are NOT even close to being like modern day cars and need a HUGE amount of experience and knowledge to keep them ticking over, much like the early car era. A lot of us gained this knowledge over previous years tinkering about probably in our youth. But I suspect many people buying caravans these days do not have this knowledge and experience and the caravan manufacturers do not supply systems that are anywhere near as robust as those found in modern vehicles. This forum provides an excellent place for people to get help with problems they don't understand. But is it enough? I suspect not. How can people new to caravaning be empowered to get the skills to help identify and solve problems themselves.
Caravanning is about get out and about and often off the beaten track. Things will stop working. It is a rugged hostile environment and since caravans are still somewhat unreliable, it is imperative that people be able to fix things as needed. It is to far away and inconvenient to go racing back to the dealer every time something goes wrong!

Perhaps it is already done, I don't know. But I think it would be a good idea to arrange something like a group meet on a semi regular basis where, over a weekend, people with little experience in caravaning could come and be shown some of the basic skills needed to keep them going by those that have already acquired them.

Opps, that will probably take two or three beers.

cheers
Mike

@mikerezny , what a very eloquent statement and philosophy!! Unfortunately, you are correct about some van owners and their limited (or none) experience with basic electrics or other mechanical issues, not necessarily their fault either. They would have other abilities that I do not have! Hence the reason for this very valuable forum and the input from various members. Every bit of information placed on this forum would/should be of interest to somebody regardless of their experience. The only person that does not make any mistakes is the person that does nothing. Smart people learn from their mistakes and the mistakes that others have made. Personally, I look forward to ideas from other members. Some ideas I look at only, others I discard as not suitable, and yet others I adapt to my own situation. It is how I learn!! And I hope to help others by passing on my information and test results to save others from having to go through the same problems and issues, successes and failures!! There is nothing like the joy of doing it yourself to make your own van meet all your requirements, no matter how humble!! In this forum, there are some very well equipped vans and my modest little Penguin will never be up with the big Expanda Boys!! But I do try to do things to "tart it up" my van, just like doing up a smaller lesser well fitted out car. Sorry ...wandering off thread with this philosophical talk. It is your fault @mikerezny !!
A good idea to have a gathering of members at a central place at a time to suit those interested in VERBALLY sharing ideas and VISUALLY seeing what others have done. Keep up with your very valuable inputs on most things , including electrical.

 

[Drover]

I just got sick of little things always cropping up so redid the wiring and plumbing, no more little upsets, no special skills other than CDF, something that was lacking in the original build.......

You go Philo around the campfire @mikerezny we will need to bring our esky's with us for sure, good post by the way.

I reckon your Penguin would never be humble, @Boots in Action , Big Mal is getting on at 6 yrs old, might be big but not flash I don't think, well maintained and all the added bits functional just like The Ute......................

 

[Dobbie]

Hey @Drover

Just like the guy I was talking to last week. He was asking me about our van then launched into a list of what he'd added to his ute....light bars, not connected but he liked the look of them...side steps, same reasoning but they lowered his clearance. ...and so on and so forth.

Not quite the functionality of yours.

and I've also been doing some more solar monitoring while in conditions that were far less sunny then when I last played around with the efficiency of the panels. The main one I tested was the flexible 120 panel.

It was brilliant. ...very happy with it but, as I said, I'd certainly never consider mounting it permanently. As a supplementary portable, it more than performed.

Our roof panel's efficiency was definately reduced by the dust and grime we collected on the dirt roads. The other area we monitored was the efficiency of our two 125 AGM batteries and that also impressed more than expected.

This is the first time with the Waeco fridge drawer on constantly.. so I'm going to flog my Engle. With the waeco and the 185 Thetford fridge we have more than enough fridge capacity and don't have to find space in the car for a fridge.....also saves about 50kgs in payload weight as the Waeco is included in the factory tare weight and I never have to lift it out of the car ever again.

I'm all for making things work as efficiently as possible snd keeping it simple.....we're getting closer to that.

(We were away for 54 days and off grid for about 42 of those ...so everything had to work well)