Overheating Patrol

[mbr37746]

Try the scan gauge, you can have 4 outputs on the screen at the one time. If the output you need isn't pre loaded there are X-gauge thingy's that you can program in yourself, have a bit of a google search for details. I think it was about $205 delivered when I got one last year.

 

[Bmhdg76]

Try the scan gauge, you can have 4 outputs on the screen at the one time. If the output you need isn't pre loaded there are X-gauge thingy's that you can program in yourself, have a bit of a google search for details. I think it was about $205 delivered when I got one last year.

Do you find it useful @mbr37746 ?
Tossing up whether I should get one when I get the new tug.

BJ

 

[JT76]

believe it or not, the Factory Radiator is the best all rounder
the 4 core, cools "too" much, and would run like a mongrel in Melbourne when your not in the Kimberleys

I would think having a high capacity radiator would not affect running temp as that is controlled by your thermostat.

Sounds to me that if it's running ok with low loads but gets hot under high loads, the radiator efficiency would be the most likely problem. Having said that I'm no expert on Patrols.

 

[bigcol]

the biggest problem with most "high capacity" radiators is
yes they hold more fluid
yes the should cool down the amount of fluid in them easier, as they are bigger

but they are not

the tubes in a 2 core Nissan radiator are 28 x 7 (56mm x 7mm all up)
the tubes in a 4 core Aluminum are 13 x 6.5 ( 52mm x 6.5mm all up)

so although the radiator is larger, the actual cooling surface is less

 

[bigcol]

with my car (yes it is a TD42)
I have tried the Aluminum 3 core replacement - no improvement
I have tried the Aluminum 4 core replacement - slightly worse
brand new Mr Nissan product - 2 core aluminum with plastic top & bottom tanks - works great

 

[dagree]

And if my memory serves me right the smaller cores would block easier and quicker?

 

[bigcol]

either either really, if they are going to block, they will

an aftermarket replacement Rad is about $250 - but they are very thin metal...............almost like a "wobble board"
Mr Nissans is about $400 I think - not sure, as I have never brought a 3.0L rad

 

[bigcol]

the other thing to remember - use genuine Nissan Coolant


I have tried and tried lots and lots of different coolants in mine - Mr Nissan's works the best

and change it every 2 years

 

[kozza]

Try the scan gauge, you can have 4 outputs on the screen at the one time. If the output you need isn't pre loaded there are X-gauge thingy's that you can program in yourself, have a bit of a google search for details. I think it was about $205 delivered when I got one last year.

Drawback is the age of the car....

Direct injection Patrols just miss out..:
http://scangauge.com.au/compatibility-nissan/

 

[kozza]

if you are able tomorrow (as its late now over there)
with the motor off - and cold, no cheating and go for a 50 minute drive then test,
spin the fan by hand, if it keeps turning more than 3/4 of a rotation the Viscous coupling that the fan is bolted to is "Cactii"
if it stops pretty much right away, the Viscous coupling is ok

if you can, have a look at the state of the Fan - most times you wont be able to see anything
but you may see if there is any damage to any of the blades

It kept turning so looks like the coupling may be the culprit....

 

[bigcol]

phew.................

a pain in the you know where, but better than big dollars
- well, I would suggest genuine (I have tried aftermarket, and it was crappy) so I will await the screams to find out the price...........

try
http://patrolapart.com.au/product-search?criteria=viscous+hub&association[1]=
PART NUMBER: 21082VS40AW
Genuine Nissan Viscous Hub Suit ZD30 Common Rail
$519.75 $418.95

they are also sponsors at nissanpatrol.com.au

didnt realise they were that dear, sorry, but they are in Lilydale (wherever that is.................)

hopefully that helps

 

[bigcol]

Try the scan gauge, you can have 4 outputs on the screen at the one time. If the output you need isn't pre loaded there are X-gauge thingy's that you can program in yourself, have a bit of a google search for details. I think it was about $205 delivered when I got one last year.

Drawback is the age of the car....

Direct injection Patrols just miss out..:
http://scangauge.com.au/compatibility-nissan/

you need the OBDII
have a look here

then you just need the App for your phone...............

 

[bigcol]

It kept turning so looks like the coupling may be the culprit....

the story is,
with it being cold the silicone oil inside is very thick, so the fan spins at the same speed as the water pump
as the engine gets hotter, the silicone oil "thins" so that the fan speed is not governed by the water pump, but by the air flow through the radiator

with it spinning freely, the oil has leaked / got old (separated) and the fan is not spinning as it should, when it should
even when its hot, the fan & hub should have enough friction so that at lower speeds and heavy loads, the fan should spin at the same rate as the water pump - as a minimum

 

[JT76]

I guess it depends on the quality of the aftermarket radiator more than the size. I'm sure in the Patrol community they would know what works and what does not. Regardless of size it would be good to do the research and find out what the best recommended one is. It might be the case that a standard size genuine one is the best bet.

As in lots of other posts there could be more to it then just this but if the current setup works in all situation except towing up hill, my mind just thinks the cooling system is not getting rid of enough heat at full load. So it may be working at say 80% efficiency which is fine while cruising along but when under that extra load and you are creating more heat it can't get rid of enough heat and the temp rises. Kinda like a partially blocked fuel filter, most the time it will be fine and you wouldn't know it's partially blocked but hook a van up to it and jump on the freeway and you will soon know.

I guess it's hard to say without seeing it but hopefully it's a simple fix, and if it's on the original radiator and you are planning to keep it long term putting a shiny new one will either fix it or tell you it's something else and at least then you know that side of it is 100% and you can start to look elsewhere.

Edit, didn't read above so you might already be on track to fix it then...

 

[bigcol]

reasonable stock standard 2006 Patrol is 10 years old
the Fan hub is the first to go
maybe the fan as well
radiator is usually pretty good as long as the fins have not been damaged, a flush out is usually suffice every 2 years or so

but changing the coolant every 2 years should be taught to everyone driving a car - any car, its chemicals & water that will degrade over time

the really unfortunate thing is, the Radiator in the TB48 (petrol 4.8) is H U G E compared to the diesels - but they dont fit...........


it was another mod I tried years ago

the basic cooling setup on all vehicles is adequate when new
throw 10 years and a heap of use, and it starts to get ordinary

 

[bigcol]

with the post earlier about the Scangauge V's the 52mm gauges V's the OBDII

I spent big coin on good quality gauges, as my car is old - no computers at all, so the OBDII (Consult) and Scangauge wont fit my car (1999)
the OBD & OBDII are good for cars up to about 2006-2007 (I think) as they have a basic computer map for them to run
Scangauge is great for the Later vehicles (Cruisers, Playdohs, Ranger etall) as they are full computerized

the scangauge is the Ducks Nuts for anyone to fit to keep an eye on what their engine is up to
prevention is usually cheaper than the fix in the long run

 

[dagree]

Looked at getting a scangauge for the Prado but not suitable for the early model 120's. Might look into a set of gauges for it one day soon so will look into searching for the pillar mount for them.

I have an OBD/OBDII hand held scanner that will read the available data but I would be safer using a mobile phone while driving.... Need a magnifying glass to read the text :eek-53:

Now :focus:..... By the test you did with the viscous fan @kozza it sounds like you just might be onto the problem. Another thing I usually suggest, in general, when people have an issue with over heating is to test/replace thermostat (You have done) & cap, take the radiator out, reverse pressure flush it and flush engine, replace coolant (Genuine brand or equivalent). Failing that replace radiator.

Second suggestion is take it to a specialist or a friend that knows a thing or two about overheating vehicles.

Third suggestion..... Post it on a forum so all of us keyboard warriors can diagnose the problem and solve the worlds problems from far and wide

(Option 3 was in total jest... I saw a similar comment on another forum )

Hope you get the issue sorted as It can cost BIG $'s afterwards as it did me like I said before!

 

[kozza]

Thanks for all the advice - will drop it into a mates and hopefully get it sorted...

The pain is of course it only occurs under load.... good excuse to take the van out though!

 

[bigcol]

you should hear the fan going once you have fitted the new Hub
sounds like a tractor trying to take off

I understand that the Thermostat housing on the 3L Di is a beach - please be careful

soak all the bolts and nuts you will be touching with WD40 / Penetrene / CRC / Inox / whatever a couple of hours before hand
day before is a good idea, just helps when your removing them

 

[bigcol]

Third suggestion..... Post it on a forum so all of us keyboard warriors can diagnose the problem and solve the worlds problems from far and wide
(Option 3 was in total jest... I saw a similar comment on another forum )

Thanks for all the advice - will drop it into a mates and hopefully get it sorted...

always happy to try and be of service