Overheating Patrol

bigcol

Well-Known Member
Nov 22, 2012
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Swan Valley Perth
the dash temp gauge on the GU is not very accurate - it is more for a "guide" than anything else

on the Temp gauge, about 3/4's of the way along in a mark (see below with RED arrow)

GU cluster.jpg

that is your Hot mark - tis ok to be at this point - your coolant temp is only at about 105* at this mark
mine usually sits in the middle (straight up and down)
 
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kozza

Member
Jun 14, 2015
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50
18
Melbourne
Don't have the boost or EGT gauges...

Not towing mine is just under 1/2

Towing is 1/2 or just above.... until I hit an incline... then it can creep so I back off the pedal until the temp drops...

I was advised by a mech from Kununurra to go a 4 core radiator?
 

bigcol

Well-Known Member
Nov 22, 2012
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Swan Valley Perth
my suggestion would be to get some gauges first
Water temp gauge (more accurate than factory gauge)
Boost gauge - so you know how much "ooommmfff" your giving it
EGT (Pyro) so you know how hot the exhaust is post Turbo
- 500-550* is a coolish running engine
- 650* is pushing hard
- 700* time to change gears, or slow down
- 750* STOP NOW
anything over 750* and you risk doing BIG damage


sometimes what "seems" hot is not really
 
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bigcol

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Nov 22, 2012
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if you are able tomorrow (as its late now over there)
with the motor off - and cold, no cheating and go for a 50 minute drive then test,
spin the fan by hand, if it keeps turning more than 3/4 of a rotation the Viscous coupling that the fan is bolted to is "Cactii"
if it stops pretty much right away, the Viscous coupling is ok

if you can, have a look at the state of the Fan - most times you wont be able to see anything
but you may see if there is any damage to any of the blades
 
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bigcol

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Nov 22, 2012
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I tried many many different things with mine, as the 4.2's like to get hot under load

I found the Factory cooling system "just" adequate for what it has to do
but, after many many dollars, I found that the Factory setup worked the best

my initial advice

flush the motor and Radiator
fit factory thermostat (but check it first with thermometer & hot water to make sure it opens when it should, and at what temp it is completely open)
check & replace Viscous hub & Fan
flush & or replace Rad with new one - factory

then get yourself some gauges, so you know what the engine is doing
I have had 3 different types of gauges in my car - first 2 types didnt quite do what I wanted
until I spent B I G $$$$$ of what I have now
3 gauges that are 3 gauges in one
Boost / EGT's / Cabin temp
Oil Pressure / Water Temp / under bonnet temp
Battery 1 / Battery 2 / Amp draw
IMAG0843.jpg
 
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kozza

Member
Jun 14, 2015
41
50
18
Melbourne
Nice gauges... Unfortunately cost is always a factor - even though vehicle replacement cost is expensive...The minister of finance is hard pressed to be convinced of these "extras"....
 

bigcol

Well-Known Member
Nov 22, 2012
6,814
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Swan Valley Perth
yes, dont I know that
SWMBO keeps a tight rein on my wallet, thats for sure

but, I used the excuse, "well dear, its only $14,000 for an engine rebuild, and these gauges will help me make sure I dont ever have to spend that much and they are only $1,000" - (well, $1100 by the time I got them fitted)

sometimes it works

sometimes it dont
 
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Jamcor

Active Member
Feb 29, 2016
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Qld
Agree with big col i have a 2014 patrol 3.0ltr crd manual temp guage never moves over half how ever egt on highway in 5th used to sit around 500 towing up a range 700 plus now just had ecu tuned what a difference 5th gear unloaded havnt seen it get over 350 towing in 5th (not advised)450 havnt done a range yet but all equalls heat in engine bay take it to a proper person thst specialises in this field nads on your car highly recommend