Macca's 2012 18.57-5

macca

(aka maccayak)
Mar 20, 2012
1,660
832
113
Victoria
I have had our van for a few months, bought it second hand as the floor plan suited us and they don't seem to come up for sale to often, the fact it had a slide out helped us make the decision. The only other 5 I know of is Brads. I have just started to do a few things to it and I thought I would do something different so at the start of this post I am going to post what the mods/improvements cost. Figure this might help others who want to do similar things and if its like my old cars I have had, I will stop because it can get out of control.

So to get the ball rolling I recently had it underslung or raised. I also had it serviced at the same time as the original owner had never had it serviced.
DSCF5095.jpg DSCF5102.jpg DSCF5104.jpg

$400 Under slinging by my local Caravan Shop next to where I work.
$150 Full service of Caravan.
$165 2 x Gas Bayonets, Fittings & Certificate (my labour free lic plumber :))
$150 Drains replaced in 40mm. (does not include hose)
$20 Led strip light under awning.
$90 (so far) Led globe upgrade for lights in van.
$125 Outside shower and fittings.
$100 Filtered Shurflo drinking water tap kit.
$270 Outside picnic table (these are overpriced)
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: mccrlc

Kenshi123

Well-Known Member
Jun 24, 2012
745
990
93
Ballarat
Great idea with the costings. Very good to know ball park figure of how much it will cost to undersling. Servicing at our local Jayco dealer is similar price to yours. Did you have an annex with your van and if so, does it have to be altered due to the extra height?

Cheers
 

macca

(aka maccayak)
Mar 20, 2012
1,660
832
113
Victoria
Today I started the process of replacing/fitting drains.(will post photos when complete). Because my van has 4 drain points (washing machine, sink, vanity and shower) I have decided to run 40mm SWV plastic pipe. Brad and Burnsy style! The washing machine never had a proper drain, just a point under it that you had to attach a hose to. That drain is complete and already nearing $100 in materials. Still to do vanity/shower. Whilst doing the drains, some existing glued joins just fell apart:(, but that made life easier:). Two of the worm drive clips weren't even done up:o. In between my work I will finish this in a couple of days. Thinking of using swimming pool hose for the sullage drain.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Burnsy

macca

(aka maccayak)
Mar 20, 2012
1,660
832
113
Victoria
Great idea with the costings. Very good to know ball park figure of how much it will cost to undersling. Servicing at our local Jayco dealer is similar price to yours. Did you have an annex with your van and if so, does it have to be altered due to the extra height?

Cheers
No we haven't got an annexe yet, that will be later in the year. That's why the first thing I did was have it underslung. Remember it is dearer to do an 18 underslung because it has 2 axles. 16's are easier to do and they only have a straight axle, not 2 drop axles like 18's. Dave out local Jayco tech gave me some good advice on that as well. It is also easier to do stuff on your van once it is higher.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Kenshi123

macca

(aka maccayak)
Mar 20, 2012
1,660
832
113
Victoria
Fitted the 2 gas bayonets this morning seeing it stopped raining. Tested out the happy hour heater tonight with a brew, works a treat. I am a licensed Gasfitter so this mod is legal and certified...just in case you wondered. Cost of materials including certificate was $165, fittings probably a touch expensive but It was easier to go to one shop than buy bits and pieces from different shops. Caravans use such weird sizes that I never use in my normal work. If I had to drive to someone's house and do a similar job, probably be $200 labour/call plus materials so for those thinking of getting bayonets with their new van then option it during the order process it as its easier/cheaper to do in manufacture.
IMG_3780.JPG IMG_3785.JPG
 
Last edited:

macca

(aka maccayak)
Mar 20, 2012
1,660
832
113
Victoria
Today I it put some LED strip lighting under the awning. I never trust the self adhesive on the back of the strip so I siliconed it on, thats why the duct tape is holding the strip on. The lights work great. I put it under the awning so it is out of the weather. I will add a photo with the duct tape off in a weeks time. This is a very cheap mod, just need to be able to solder and know your 12volts. Gotta love the rolls of LED lights, could use it everywhere.
IMG_3801.JPG IMG_3802.JPG
I have allowed for the AFK's and curved roof rafters which will be added when we get the annexe.
 

Burnsy

Well-Known Member
Mar 26, 2012
2,663
977
113
Newcastle
Today I it put some LED strip lighting under the awning. I never trust the self adhesive on the back of the strip so I siliconed it on, thats why the duct tape is holding the strip on. The lights work great. I put it under the awning so it is out of the weather. I will add a photo with the duct tape off in a weeks time. This is a very cheap mod, just need to be able to solder and know your 12volts. Gotta love the rolls of LED lights, could use it everywhere.
View attachment 21946 View attachment 21947
I have allowed for the AFK's and curved roof rafters which will be added when we get the annexe.
Hey macca,how did you get power to the strip?
 

macca

(aka maccayak)
Mar 20, 2012
1,660
832
113
Victoria
@Burnsy On my van the wiring for the light switch next to the front door goes up a hollow space in the frame(right next to the door). I checked and it goes up to the roof. I measured and drilled a hole, all good. I then soldered the wires to a point on the back of the strip at the location approximately (approx. 400mm from left end of strip). To support the wires I used a bit of heat shrink over both the strip and the wires, only about an inch long and I placed silicone into the heat shrink on the solder side only and then applied the heat so it is nice and water proof and the wire is supported by the heat shrink and not the solder. I installed a rubber grommet in the hole then fed the wires down to the light switch and doubled up to the external light (might change this later to separate switch). I then just cut the strip to as close to where I thought the annexe slides would go.
I will pull the tape off on the weekend, I like to give silicone a week to cure. All you should see is a grommet. I was going to take photos but I didn't think anyone would be interested.
 

Marv_mart

Well-Known Member
Jan 3, 2014
1,275
2,019
113
Adelaide
Yes, I have bought the led strip. Need to make sure you get the 8mm wide strip (LED 3528 not the 5050 10mm - these too wide for the recess in the awning roller). Thinking of attaching it to the awning roller in the groove ( not the sliding groove for the walls of the annexe). I think another post describes how this was done this elsewhere on the forum. Still working on how to get the wires from the awning roller to the outside light for power and possibly an internal separate switch/dimmer.
Photos would be useful.
Hank
 
Last edited:

macca

(aka maccayak)
Mar 20, 2012
1,660
832
113
Victoria
@Marv_mart ,Hank, I just wanted to keep mine simple. I bought the 5050 only because I had used them before and no other reason. It was a good price and also it arrived in 2 days.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/131132844204?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
When I had a pop top, I just put it on the roof extrusion that gets covered by the roof when it is down. That way it is protected from the elements, it gives off a great reflected light and is easy for your wires. That way you don't see all the bight little beads of light. If I could have done it that way again I would have, just don't have a pop top this time around.
IMG_2943.JPG
 
Last edited:

skippy

Well-Known Member
Jun 21, 2010
935
793
93
Butler/Perth WA
@Marv_mart @macca

:DMacca I to had a problem with the sticky back on the LED's just pealing of the side of the van. So of to Bunning's for more Sika Flex :bounce:

Hank I too installed LED's on the van and also on the drum of the awning.
It was quite easy but very time consuming but now that its done its like daytime at night as you can see buy the photos below.
I think you are in the same position as I that the 2013 modals didn't have the LED's but the 2014 models did on the awning drum.
On the weekend I will take some more photos of the LED"s during the day if you like and it might give you more of an idea.
Hopefully the pictures below are useful mate.

Paul


IMG_0713.JPG
IMG_0711.JPG
 
Last edited:

gwadir

Well-Known Member
Feb 2, 2013
626
353
63
61
Albion Park, NSW
Hey macca,how did you get power to the strip?

@macca hope you don't mind me hijacking your thread, @Burnsy I have just put a strip light onto the van, fairly easy to do after all, don't know if you remember but I asked a while ago if anybody could advise me on some internal van wiring well I found out for myself.

If you check out the photos you'll see that I have put a third switch in just inside the door where the 2 gang switch is mounted. When you remove the switch plate and mounting block you will see there will be 3 cables coming out, there is a black duct mounted in the wall that runs straight up to the roof and runs right beside the external speaker. One of the 3 cables supplies power the other 2 are for the internal light and the external light so picking up power is no problem.

If you remove the 4 screws securing the speaker and gently cut the silicon from under the speaker (and this took me the best part of an hour to do) when the speaker comes away you will see the top end of the black duct.

I then drilled a hole just above and adjacent to the speaker to access the duct and pushed a cable down the duct to come out where the speaker was.
Then I fed a draw strip (yellow plastic electricians draw strip available from Bunnings for $7.95) up the duct to come out at the speaker hole.
I then attached the cable to this and drew the cable down to the switch. Then I re-installed the speaker.

Next I connected and fitted the LED strip and sealed around the hole I drilled with white Sikaflex. Then I just took power from the incoming power cable to the third switch, connect the positive of the new cable to the switch then connected the black to the BP connector with the other negative wires. Hope this is clear enough, photo's attached, PM me if you need more info or want me to talk you through it, by the way we have the 18.57-6 as well.
 

Attachments

  • photo1a.JPG
    photo1a.JPG
    231.4 KB · Views: 256
  • photo2a.JPG
    photo2a.JPG
    229.8 KB · Views: 265
  • photo3a.JPG
    photo3a.JPG
    226.9 KB · Views: 226
Last edited:

gwadir

Well-Known Member
Feb 2, 2013
626
353
63
61
Albion Park, NSW
PS to my last post, the 3 gang switch plate is made by CMS Electracom where I bought mine from however I have since found out they are available from Coast To Coast RV on the net.

Dave
 

macca

(aka maccayak)
Mar 20, 2012
1,660
832
113
Victoria
@skippy, what have you done do stop the wire twisting at the drum? I think I should have enough lighting with the leds on the wall, but if not I know what else to do:).

Geoff
 
  • Like
Reactions: skippy