Hi CrustyI have the Eberspacher Airtronic D2 which is 2.2kW and that does my 20ft Expander very well
If the Snugger 2300 is 2.3kW it will be ample in size
Just open some windows.
Ive mounted the heater under the club lounge and have 2 outlets, either side of the rear lounge wing pointing forward and to the rear. The rear facing fixed open domed vent blows out low past the fridge and the forward facing flatter closable vaned vent in the corner of the club lounge basically next to where my legs usually dangle (that's my allocated daytime seat, the other end of the lounge is my allocated night time seat. Seat allocation in our van is a complex matrix that only I can fully interpret correctly. Sometime the bed is included in the matrix, but not always. There are penalties for those who get it wrong .... )Hi Crusty
I've just bought the D2 and planning the install -- with the positioning of the hot air outlet,do you have to take in account that the air is hot enough to be a problem? I am thinking of putting the D2 under a seat with the hot air vent coming out under the table but am thinking that it will be too hot near a leg. I'm a bit restricted in choice of install spots in the small 14.44.5 OB. Any other install tips would be appreciated.
thanks Alex
Where do you source the ducting bits?Ive mounted the heater under the club lounge and have 2 outlets, either side of the rear lounge wing pointing forward and to the rear. The rear facing fixed open domed vent blows out low past the fridge and the forward facing flatter closable vaned vent in the corner of the club lounge basically next to where my legs usually dangle (that's my allocated daytime seat, the other end of the lounge is my allocated night time seat. Seat allocation in our van is a complex matrix that only I can fully interpret correctly. Sometime the bed is included in the matrix, but not always. There are penalties for those who get it wrong .... )
The heat that pumps out of the vents, particularly the rear facing at full tilt is pretty bloody hot, but that concentrated heat rapidly tappers off within inches of the vent. The reason more air exits the rear vent was intentional because the vents are forward of the middle of the van and the bathroom is at the rear. I achieved a slightly higher rear air flow just through the ducting "Y" junction. The junction I used isnt a true "Y" its a straight through with an angled side joint. Experimenting with, being careful with ducting length and bends placed enough back pressure from the straight through vent duct to push exactly the amount of air I wanted out the front facing vent. Either that or more likely it was dumb luck.
I routinely sit over that forward facing vent, and that vent is a closable vane type which is angled 45deg down and 45 deg out and I havent once felt the air blowing on my leg, and it doesnt get airlocked extra hot under the table either. Even if my leg was deformed enough to end up over the vent it would only be noticeable, not a burning heat. My only poo poo was I should have used a permanently open angle vent the same as the one behind the couch. I was originally concern about the kids standing on it climbing about on the couch it so I went with the flat vane style. The flat vane I used is a bigger hole than the fixed, so I cant remove it and retro fit a fixed open dome type vent. Gluing up the vanes on forward facing vent at it current angle is on my "to do list"
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Thanks for all the reply's guy's it's helped.
I just rang the Tassie retailer and it turns out he has a 18.58-2 himself and so he put a 4kw unit in for the reasons that I am concerned about size.
His response was NO WAY to Big.
He said he was on the central lakes at -2 to -4 and the heater was on its lowest power setting 1 form 1 to 7 ( these units have thermostat and power output) it held 22 degrees inside the van in his opinion it will foul up very fast and stop as its not running hard enough ( OK for him as he can service and fix it with his eyes closed )
He recommended no more than the 2kw to 2.2kw units and run them harder as its better for the units to be going flat out rather than just idling along.
I tend to think the info is genuine as he did himself out of a few hundred dollars for the bigger unit.
Again thanks
I bought my heater, as a complete kit, locally through Northern RV in Campbellfield on the northern side of Melb. They supply brand named heater kits, and parts such as ducts and vents etc.Where do you source the ducting bits?
And what fuel tank did you use and location? My unit came from the UK with basic installation kit (no mounting plate i found) so I guess it's best to source bits n pieces here.
Thanks
I got my complete kit on line from the UK and have purchased some extra bits of ducting etc since then from heatso.comWhere do you source the ducting bits?
And what fuel tank did you use and location? My unit came from the UK with basic installation kit (no mounting plate i found) so I guess it's best to source bits n pieces here.
Thanks
Completely agree. Our 2kW barley ticks over heating our 21, so even with it we would struggle to run it flat outThanks for all the reply's guy's it's helped.
I just rang the Tassie retailer and it turns out he has a 18.58-2 himself and so he put a 4kw unit in for the reasons that I am concerned about size.
His response was NO WAY to Big.
He said he was on the central lakes at -2 to -4 and the heater was on its lowest power setting 1 form 1 to 7 ( these units have thermostat and power output) it held 22 degrees inside the van in his opinion it will foul up very fast and stop as its not running hard enough ( OK for him as he can service and fix it with his eyes closed )
He recommended no more than the 2kw to 2.2kw units and run them harder as its better for the units to be going flat out rather than just idling along.
I tend to think the info is genuine as he did himself out of a few hundred dollars for the bigger unit.
Again thanks