Hi all, I have searched High and low and can't seem to find the information I need. Apologies if I have missed it. I am not anywhere near my van at the moment and I am trying to find out what the hub to hub dimension is for the axle on a 16.49-1 outback. I don't suppose anyone has measured this and has the info handy. I am pricing up to upgrade the axle to a 2500kg version instead of my 2000kg one, for my atm upgrade on my single axle. I have new wheels and tyres organised and the cost for new springs, now just trying to work out the cost of a new axle assembly. Thanks in advance. Adam.
Suspension Axle hub to Hub measurement
- Thread starter Adnic14
- Start date
Its best to measure your own gear as variations from rig to rig can happen, so do the axle, springs and hangers together so you can order as a set from some place like Couplemate ..... this way they should all fit together, get the spring set wrong and they may not fit your chassis fittings and go for greasable shackle pins
I went to steel rims for my old single axle, Australian and more robust, be wary of Chinese alloy rims as they do fail with hairline cracks, original rims are often rubbish items ................... try to keep the same offset as can save dramas if you get it wrong............. LT tyres will give good life also ...
If your DiY ing measure and square off the axle so you can align it easily before you go for a spin otherwise find a truck align shop to do it, saves throwing away a set of tyres............. Nylock nuts on HT washers for the fishplates is the way to go.
I went to steel rims for my old single axle, Australian and more robust, be wary of Chinese alloy rims as they do fail with hairline cracks, original rims are often rubbish items ................... try to keep the same offset as can save dramas if you get it wrong............. LT tyres will give good life also ...
If your DiY ing measure and square off the axle so you can align it easily before you go for a spin otherwise find a truck align shop to do it, saves throwing away a set of tyres............. Nylock nuts on HT washers for the fishplates is the way to go.
Thanks for the advise Drover much appreciated. I was reading another thread about tyres and I think it was yourself that had 265/75R16's on your single axle? Could be wrong have done alot of reading. But if it was do you have any problems with the size? Thanks Adam.
No mate they are on my 22ft dual axle rig, my single was a 14.44 which I replaced the springs and fitted wider 15" wheels and tyres this was to give a bit more height and stability as I slung my axle under the springs, went for RoH steel rims mine rated so they ha dthe load capacity as the Jayco's alloys were rubbish and nearly at max load..........., I measured the size of the new wheel/tyres and they allowed 25mm clearance from chassis so all good....... If you use a wheel size calculator you can add the figures pertaining to your wheel arch/chassis and it will show up how close things will be if you increase rim/tyre size but really slightly wider and a one size up in rim doesn't often cause hassles but use a ruler first as many variables can occur, plus changes to hitch height can mean other problems and expense ...https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/.................
Big wheels doesn't mean a better handling van either often the extra height can be achived using a higher profile tyre ...... Fit a mild AT or HT tyre in LT don't waste your money on some aggressive off road tyre they achieve absolutely nothing and can be detremental to van handling..... A van is a trailer, lazy axle and wheels so doesn't require motive traction just the ability to get rid of water not cause drag..........
Thanks Drover much appreciated. I'm more after the load capacity which has a good safety margin in my calcs. I'm increasing my atm from 2t to 2.5t this is stage one of three. $$ add up but is cheaper than a new van. I agree with the tread patterns ive never understood the agreesive tread pattern for the van the HT and mild AT have gotten me everwhere so far. Thanks again for getting back to me.
Are you getting it done officially, getting it plated ???? Sounds like your on top of it anyway ................................. When I did the 14, I wanted some extra room underneath so fitted decent springs, mounted the axle under the axle, the original rims were Thai rubbish with a 900kg max so once I replaced all that it was a nice height and handled really well, better than original, get it to chuck a wobble and would be stable again in 2, worked in theory then when I actually had to throw it around for real it just stayed tucked in behind which saved our bacon for sure........
maybe info here; https://expandasdownunder.com/threads/drovers-14-44-3.4502/page-19
this thread may provide some tips, though since the forum has started to crash the pics may not show. ...... https://expandasdownunder.com/threads/underslinging-a-straight-axle.10987/
maybe info here; https://expandasdownunder.com/threads/drovers-14-44-3.4502/page-19
this thread may provide some tips, though since the forum has started to crash the pics may not show. ...... https://expandasdownunder.com/threads/underslinging-a-straight-axle.10987/
Yeah I'll definitely get it plated. The new wheels and tyres are the biggest expense so thought I'd start with that. New axle and springs towards the end of the year.
Hopefully my cals are ok and with my vehicle being lifted it should level out the van nicely as well so the bum doesn't sag low on the van any more. Plus extra water and a few little mods will be ready for a big trip off road in the new year.
Hopefully my cals are ok and with my vehicle being lifted it should level out the van nicely as well so the bum doesn't sag low on the van any more. Plus extra water and a few little mods will be ready for a big trip off road in the new year.
The load rating for the chassis cannot be changed so that will govern just what increase in ATM you can have in conjunction with the axle loading, I have no idea what they are though, there is an equation but I forget what it is , also depending on your current hubs if they have parrellel bearings you will be able to transfer onto the new axle if not you will need to go for new hubs and brakes to meet the load ....
I had the chassis looked at already they said I could go to 3t on that but I won't need that kind of weight. Yeah, the axle and hub assembly is a whole new one I can either do 2.5t locally or 3t from eastern states both options are just under $1200 for the full kit, drop out and drop in. The new springs are around $500. Just trying to source some cheap old 265/75R16 tyres and rims to ensure that they fit ok, all the measurements say yes but, not always the case when you go to do it. I thought it best to invest in a cheap old one before spending the money on a new set of rubber.
I still have the original 235/75 R15s on there. That size was mainly for the load capacity. The 265/75/16 has a load rating of 123 which is a capacity of 1550kg, with the single axle I figured, that if I am going to upgrade it would be better to be higher and the pricing of that size here in WA is good, with lots of options. This will also give me a lift of 35mm and a track width increase of 30mm, so a little help with stability, and ground clearance. I also know the new springs will sit slightly higher too. So hopefully they fit I bought a secondhand one in that size to do a test fit. We will see how that goes over the next few days. Luckily I only need three so the tyre price is not too bad. The new rims cost more. I went for the Kings Hurricane II which also gives me a 1550kg load rating. once I have finished it all I might post it incase others might want to do something similar.
If you measure from the stud side of the axle hub to the chassis that will show the gap you have to play with, then place a straight edge across the inside wall of new tyre when fitted on rim and measure to inside of wheel hub it should ideally be about 30mm or more less than the hub measurement, if not then you could have drama as the tyre could hit chassis, whatever the gap is add it to 265 and measure from chassis towards the outer guard it should fall short of the edge and since wheel compression can be 80mm or so you will need that much from top of wheel to top of wheel arch, if not more.
Thanks Drover, I had to read that a couple of times but I get it now. I managed to pickup an old patrol rim that is a 265/75R16 cheap, has a 10mm offset but I can allow for that. Back near the van now so hopefully be able to check it all next week. I'll let you know how it works out.