Shackle ratings
- Thread starter Bellbirdweb
- Start date
I have several old rated climbing carabiners all over 15 years old. Very useful for many things, but none with any serious shock load.
Some are rated to 2000kg+, however the load they are rated for is for an elastic load, climbing rope or nylon tape, which have elastic deformation under load, so any shock load on the carabiner would be "smoothed" over a few micro seconds. If you loaded them with something less elastic like steel chain the peak shock load would be applied over a much shorter time. Hence very risky to use as chain link. They were not designed or rated for this type of loading.
Steel carabiners are much more durable than alloy carabiners and tend to fail slowly by deformation not by catastrophic failure like alloy carabiners. However, all carabiners to achieve max loading require the gate to be closed and screw gate done up and be loaded in the correct direction, along the long axis, never directly on the gate. Note: non screw gate carabiners have lower load ratings and are more prone to mechanical failure.
Alloy carabiners also can fail due to small micro fractures from impact or shock load and can only be checked to be safe with X-rays. So if they are dropped on to a hard surface or heavily shocked loaded they should be no longer used for climbing. Many people do not do this and are really taking an unnecessary risk. Carabiners are expensive and should be considered to be disposable if not sure of damage, old ones are great for clipping on bags and securing luggage, etc.
Some are rated to 2000kg+, however the load they are rated for is for an elastic load, climbing rope or nylon tape, which have elastic deformation under load, so any shock load on the carabiner would be "smoothed" over a few micro seconds. If you loaded them with something less elastic like steel chain the peak shock load would be applied over a much shorter time. Hence very risky to use as chain link. They were not designed or rated for this type of loading.
Steel carabiners are much more durable than alloy carabiners and tend to fail slowly by deformation not by catastrophic failure like alloy carabiners. However, all carabiners to achieve max loading require the gate to be closed and screw gate done up and be loaded in the correct direction, along the long axis, never directly on the gate. Note: non screw gate carabiners have lower load ratings and are more prone to mechanical failure.
Alloy carabiners also can fail due to small micro fractures from impact or shock load and can only be checked to be safe with X-rays. So if they are dropped on to a hard surface or heavily shocked loaded they should be no longer used for climbing. Many people do not do this and are really taking an unnecessary risk. Carabiners are expensive and should be considered to be disposable if not sure of damage, old ones are great for clipping on bags and securing luggage, etc.
Thanks for that @yabbietol , don't think we had alloy ones when I did a little bit of rock walking in the late 60's, seems like a million years ago now, wasn't quite my "cup of tea".....................