Electrical Next gen Everest and ESC

[django]

Hi guys.
I’m in need of help to get my esc working on my 2015 20.64 expanda.
It works when connected to car in reverse. So I know it’s works as green lights turn on.
But what do I need to do in simple terms to get it working properly? Can I swap pins around? Please explain what I can do.
I’m handy and can do myself, also a sparky but not an auto elec. I know there’s a massive difference.

I also have an Anderson on car set, but which I need to run an Anderson plug on caravan direct to fridge terminals for this still. What’s the best way to do this also?

Thank you!!

 

[Drover]

Your ESC takes its power from the tug, so seeing it only works in Reverse then I assume its wired to the reverse pin (pin 2), with a 12pin plug one way to do an easy sort out is disconnect the vehicle reverse wire on the tug plug (2) and run a jumper wire from 12v feed (pin 8 or 9) to the reverse pin, then you will have 12v to your ESC powered up all the time, that would be the feed that charges the van battery so cabling should be adequate if its a 12 pin plug,

For your van fridge feed, run at least an 8 B&S cable direct from the tug anderson back to your fridge, at the fridge end fit another anderson so the drop from the heavy cable to the smaller fridge wiring is achieved, fit a fridge switch between that anderson and the fridge and your tig battery won't go flat ...... you could do a jumper plug from this circuit at the tug anderson to feed the ESC, it certainly would be no loss on the cable ..

 

[django]

Your ESC takes its power from the tug, so seeing it only works in Reverse then I assume its wired to the reverse pin (pin 2), with a 12pin plug one way to do an easy sort out is disconnect the vehicle reverse wire on the tug plug (2) and run a jumper wire from 12v feed (pin 8 or 9) to the reverse pin, then you will have 12v to your ESC powered up all the time, that would be the feed that charges the van battery so cabling should be adequate if its a 12 pin plug,

For your van fridge feed, run at least an 8 B&S cable direct from the tug anderson back to your fridge, at the fridge end fit another anderson so the drop from the heavy cable to the smaller fridge wiring is achieved, fit a fridge switch between that anderson and the fridge and your tig battery won't go flat ...... you could do a jumper plug from this circuit at the tug anderson to feed the ESC, it certainly would be no loss on the cable ..

Hi mate,
Thanks for the reply.
Could you just swap on caravan side the esc from pin 2 to pin 9 which controls the fridge I guess or aux? As I’ll be running fridge from Anderson or not at all.

Also do you mean a single to double Anderson adapter to do both fridge and esc? Would that be sufficient cause size and draw? Not melt.

The tug has ignition cut off relay. So with the fridge Anderson I’ll just need to run from draw bar directly to fridge terminals won’t I? Don’t need a fridge switch.

Thanks heaps

 

[Drover]

Could you just swap on caravan side the esc from pin 2 to pin 9 which controls the fridge I guess or aux? As I’ll be running fridge from Anderson or not at all.

That would work on its own okay from pin 9, just check that its getting power, be ideal actually ... .

Also do you mean a single to double Anderson adapter to do both fridge and esc? Would that be sufficient cause size and draw? Not melt.

That should work without any dramas, using 8 B&S cable the draw isn't even half capacity ... though individual circuits is always better.

The tug has ignition cut off relay. So with the fridge Anderson I’ll just need to run from draw bar directly to fridge terminals won’t I? Don’t need a fridge switch.

Thanks heaps

If going the fridge Anderson set up, preferred, make it a dedicated feed from battery, then little loss, use a circuit breaker instead of fuze and have your ign cut off there as well and I have taken to wiring the POS to the POS battery terminal and the NEG to body ground usually same spot as battery cable ground this saves drama with the tugs BMS having charging issues, ideally the fridge circuit should have nothing to do with the vehicle system other than the battery connection .......... A VSR for the fridge needs to shut off at about 12.5v for modern vehicles just to be safe as some tend to chew on power even after shut down ....

 

[Drover]

Pic of my Anderson set up at back of fridge, best way to get a good cable size reduction and handy 12v extention lead.