mine is now :lock1:
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did you make the change yourself or out sourced?
Paul
Prestage Jayco Geelong did it
Need some extra height, underslung??
- Thread starter leesy
- Start date
Has any one replaced there pins and bushes when carrying out this job? Just chasing part numbers and brands? As I'm wanting to do this myself but thought I might as well kill 2 birds with one stone and change out the pins and bushes!
i just run air bags in mine, adjustable height when needed, also gives you self leveling if you want go further with the electronics controlling the airbags.
Could you please email me pics of the axle set up please?
Did they have to put a plate on top of the springs to bolt the new U-Bolts to?
Did they have to put a plate on top of the springs to bolt the new U-Bolts to?
Hi we did our 16-49-1 OB tows like a dream .
Prestage jayco did it for $220 I think just to keep things under warranty
Thank you, That looks pretty simple I just wanted to see what they did with the bracket for the Shocks and what they bolted the downside up U-bolts too.
Cheers for that.
Cheers for that.
When you move the axle to under the spring you have to leave the axle in the same aspect, by that I mean the top and front of the axle stay the same, if not then your alighnment and brakes are out of whack, you will need a new spacer on top then sit the spring on that and the fish plate is positioned on top of the springs, it is always advisable to use new U bolts, nuts and fish plate.
When positioning the new spacer you will have to measure the exact position of the old one and place the new one in the new position in the exact same position ( like mirror reverse ) that way you should keep the axle alighned, now before you pull everything apart you should measure and mark on the chassis 2 datum marks from set points on the axle then when you move everything and it's all set up you use your datums marks to make sure you are in the right position, when it's right you then weld the spacers onto the axle ( just a good tack ) and finish tightening the U bolts.
You can get new spacers when you get new U bolts.
If you do this job yourself you MUST have 4 x Jack stands and a good trolley jack, 2 tonners all round are good, you will have to lift your rig up a good way to make it easier and drop the front spring hangar, good idea to check and replace pins and shackles as well, wheels and hubs removed make life easier also.
PS: this will usually raise your rig 80 to 100mm and change the height of the hitch on your vehicle as well, check that your hitch will give you that extra height first. Legally tow hitch has a max of 490mm ?????
When positioning the new spacer you will have to measure the exact position of the old one and place the new one in the new position in the exact same position ( like mirror reverse ) that way you should keep the axle alighned, now before you pull everything apart you should measure and mark on the chassis 2 datum marks from set points on the axle then when you move everything and it's all set up you use your datums marks to make sure you are in the right position, when it's right you then weld the spacers onto the axle ( just a good tack ) and finish tightening the U bolts.
You can get new spacers when you get new U bolts.
If you do this job yourself you MUST have 4 x Jack stands and a good trolley jack, 2 tonners all round are good, you will have to lift your rig up a good way to make it easier and drop the front spring hangar, good idea to check and replace pins and shackles as well, wheels and hubs removed make life easier also.
PS: this will usually raise your rig 80 to 100mm and change the height of the hitch on your vehicle as well, check that your hitch will give you that extra height first. Legally tow hitch has a max of 490mm ?????
Thanks Drover that's some excellent information especially about the datum points, I didn't think of that.
This mod will actually be better for my hitch as the van currently tows high at the front.
What is the problem with the brake line?
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I did a blow by blow on the change somewhere but this one is a bit better I think, it is most important that you accurately mark the position of the new spacers so you get your axle in the right spot then it all just slots together and hopefully you don't destroy a set of tyres. You may also find the shackle pin has a bit of weld on it, just grind it off and all is good, replace with greasable shackle pins if not already.
If you get a 10mm spacer you shouldn't have to rotate the centre bolt on the spring, a pain to do. The nut can sometimes foul the mount so you have to rotate it.
Before you remove the hand brake cable wrap the ends up in tape, saves ripping your hands to bits.
The brake wire shouldn't hang from the axle any bit of crap on the road will rip it off. I actually moved mine to the cross member so it comes down to the brake drum and is well protected.
If you get a 10mm spacer you shouldn't have to rotate the centre bolt on the spring, a pain to do. The nut can sometimes foul the mount so you have to rotate it.
Before you remove the hand brake cable wrap the ends up in tape, saves ripping your hands to bits.
The brake wire shouldn't hang from the axle any bit of crap on the road will rip it off. I actually moved mine to the cross member so it comes down to the brake drum and is well protected.