Mods Issues & wish list for 16.49.1

millers

Active Member
Mar 25, 2011
282
246
43
Adelaide
Hi all,

Have done a couple of trips in the Expanda now and starting to get a feel for it. Thought I would share some mods and see if I can get some thoughts and ideas on planned changes.

Fixes to things I did not like

Expanda Changes 001.JPG

From the left is the modification to the Jack wind up with the length cut off above (500mm). Was able to do this myself cut the shaft, cut the weld, and then tapped (big hammer) the shaft out of the "socket". Cleaned up the new end inserted into the "socket" and welded around the outside. Used Silver spray to make it look new again.

Next is the two bags for the annex walls. One for the two sides and one for the front. These were made by the local canvas guy and they fit neatly into the front hatch via the outside. Lot easier than the big bag.

Next is the Aussie Traveller standard bag for the anti-flap (standard) Hoping to place a pole carrier near axle for this.
Next is the peg bag (standard).

Next is the hose bag (made by the canvas guy) to hold the pressure hose (and I have added a funnel if I need to fill up the water tanks).

This leads to the next two pictures that show a tyre cover for the spare and placing the hose bag inside, (if I persist with this) I want the canvas guy to place a zip in the tyre cover to allow easy extraction.

Expanda Changes 003.JPGExpanda Changes 002.JPG

The other mod was to do with the tow height. I purchased a 50mm block that fits under the towing hitch on the van, however with this block attached the parking brake does not have enough clearance to operate correctly. The shape of the lever is such that it tucks underneath meaning that the block stops travel. I took the brake lever off, traced it onto cardboard and then modified it and then cut out the cardboard shape to test. Seemed good so I was off to the local caravan store to see if it could be changed. Thought I would check with a friend (welder) if it was possible. Well he took one look and said simple cut, flip, and weld. 15 minutes later I walk out with the lever modified. Some grinding flat and silver spray and all looks like new (although slightly different).

Expanda Changes 004.JPG

On tow height, I will say that I am a fan of WDH and feel that they really help with keeping the car easy to control. You can feel the van but you have control. I will limit this to single axle as I have only towed single axle with WDH. Dual without and car carrier only.


I have also split up the sulage hose into 5 1.2m lengths with joiners and slide these into the chassis rails at the back and then hold on with a strap. When connecting use as many as need to get to the drain, so there is no long "snake" on the ground (also considering an "L" piece at the end to avoid the upward loop required for some drains. Also liked this www.expandasdownunder.com/showthread.php/1118-Water-amp-sulage-hose-rack-mod.


And the final current mod was to isolate the selection of the mains / pressure water from hand pump (drinking) water, when using the 12V pump. Reason was to allow one tank to be rain water and only used to for drinking to make it last longer. Dealer had a go and connected to front tank (I think I want to review and put in another filter and selection tap so I can choose what tank is what).

Well that covers the actual mods / improvements that have been implemented.


Now onto some of the issues / faults

I have mention the TV in another post, and I have found out from the dealer that both TV outlets (we have the wind up aerial) are active so the TV can go on the Cafe Dine. A little red faced on that one as I did not try before complaining.

The pressure inlet for the water seems to leak (drips not a stream). I bought new hose and fittings (as recommended) and told them for the first service, but still it leaks. Has anyone had this issue and know of a fix. I am thinking of disconnecting it and re-connecting it under the van with a standard hose fitting.

The cupboards seem to use very small screws (a cupboard fell off) and this was fixed but with bigger screws, however another one has come off so it will be off to the hardware store for better screws and a replacement program. On the second cupboard door I wonder if the spring loaded lifter (top cupboard) was not adjusted and pushed the door too high as the hinge was also bent upwards. Any thoughts.

The draw runners on the stove side are very weak at the back. We have broken the plastic bracket twice and I think that I need to replace these with metal angle brackets so that they will not keep breaking. Has anyone had this issue?

We have the external shower connections and was not really happy that the hoses just sit in the rear boot. I would like to enclose them so hoses are not entangled or damaged. I did like the idea of disconnecting the hose and having that separate with a tap type connector (means the shower tent can be away from the van), but another hose to store or isolate them in the boot.

We do not run the van on gas, as we are using powered sites most of the time, but I did run the fridge (150 litre) on gas for awhile and the van had a very strong odour. I would nearly suggest that it is like "hot" wood or wood dust, but not sure. I know that gas fridges will smell a little as the "protective coverings" are burnt off. Can anyone help and tell me how long this should take, I have run the fridge on gas for 2 days (I am not game to run it overnight) is this long enough or would the smell last longer. I have removed the microwave to check that surface and it is not hot.

Well now onto the planned improvements

From the forum I really like the:
txp ladder Ladder and clothes line
Space saver coat hangers www.expandasdownunder.com/showthread.php/1111-Mods-are-complete-for-now
LED lights​


Major change

Would like to add a toolbox style box on the front (A frame) this would be able to house the Annex and all fittings, a Webber Q (baby), a spare gas bottle (does not need to be connected) and the tpx ladder. If the A frame was clean then this would not be a problem, however there is an existing gas bottle (only one) and the spare wheel to content with. Do people have ideas / pictures / measurements etc that you have done or seen to help out. I am not sure that I want to do home made specifically but I would happily draw / draft it for a shop to manufacture if I can find one in Adelaide.

Forum discussions on toolbox and mods on A Frame (that I have found):



Cheers
Steve
 
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stuartcarr2002

Active Member
May 13, 2011
387
183
43
Sydney
Hi all,

Have done a couple of trips in the Expanda now and starting to get a feel for it. Thought I would share some mods and see if I can get some thoughts and ideas on planned changes.

Fixes to things I did not like

View attachment 7423

From the left is the modification to the Jack wind up with the length cut off above (500mm). Was able to do this myself cut the shaft, cut the weld, and then tapped (big hammer) the shaft out of the "socket". Cleaned up the new end inserted into the "socket" and welded around the outside. Used Silver spray to make it look new again.

Next is the two bags for the annex walls. One for the two sides and one for the front. These were made by the local canvas guy and they fit neatly into the front hatch via the outside. Lot easier than the big bag.

Next is the Aussie Traveller standard bag for the anti-flap (standard) Hoping to place a pole carrier near axle for this.
Next is the peg bag (standard).

Next is the hose bag (made by the canvas guy) to hold the pressure hose (and I have added a funnel if I need to fill up the water tanks).

This leads to the next two pictures that show a tyre cover for the spare and placing the hose bag inside, (if I persist with this) I want the canvas guy to place a zip in the tyre cover to allow easy extraction.

View attachment 7424View attachment 7425

The other mod was to do with the tow height. I purchased a 50mm block that fits under the towing hitch on the van, however with this block attached the parking brake does not have enough clearance to operate correctly. The shape of the lever is such that it tucks underneath meaning that the block stops travel. I took the brake lever off, traced it onto cardboard and then modified it and then cut out the cardboard shape to test. Seemed good so I was off to the local caravan store to see if it could be changed. Thought I would check with a friend (welder) if it was possible. Well he took one look and said simple cut, flip, and weld. 15 minutes later I walk out with the lever modified. Some grinding flat and silver spray and all looks like new (although slightly different).

View attachment 7426

On tow height, I will say that I am a fan of WDH and feel that they really help with keeping the car easy to control. You can feel the van but you have control. I will limit this to single axle as I have only towed single axle with WDH. Dual without and car carrier only.


I have also split up the sulage hose into 5 1.2m lengths with joiners and slide these into the chassis rails at the back and then hold on with a strap. When connecting use as many as need to get to the drain, so there is no long "snake" on the ground (also considering an "L" piece at the end to avoid the upward loop required for some drains. Also liked this www.expandasdownunder.com/showthread.php/1118-Water-amp-sulage-hose-rack-mod.


And the final current mod was to isolate the selection of the mains / pressure water from hand pump (drinking) water, when using the 12V pump. Reason was to allow one tank to be rain water and only used to for drinking to make it last longer. Dealer had a go and connected to front tank (I think I want to review and put in another filter and selection tap so I can choose what tank is what).

Well that covers the actual mods / improvements that have been implemented.


Now onto some of the issues / faults

I have mention the TV in another post, and I have found out from the dealer that both TV outlets (we have the wind up aerial) are active so the TV can go on the Cafe Dine. A little red faced on that one as I did not try before complaining.

The pressure inlet for the water seems to leak (drips not a stream). I bought new hose and fittings (as recommended) and told them for the first service, but still it leaks. Has anyone had this issue and know of a fix. I am thinking of disconnecting it and re-connecting it under the van with a standard hose fitting. We had an issue at easter with our joint leaking inside the van. There was water coming out from under the seat. I pulled the joint apart and they only had plumber tape on one of the threads, so I replaced the seals and o rings and put new tape on and it seams fine...

The cupboards seem to use very small screws (a cupboard fell off) and this was fixed but with bigger screws, however another one has come off so it will be off to the hardware store for better screws and a replacement program. On the second cupboard door I wonder if the spring loaded lifter (top cupboard) was not adjusted and pushed the door too high as the hinge was also bent upwards. Any thoughts.

The draw runners on the stove side are very weak at the back. We have broken the plastic bracket twice and I think that I need to replace these with metal angle brackets so that they will not keep breaking. Has anyone had this issue? Ours did the same thing on the stove draw and our cutlary draw. I gave up replacing them and used gaffa tape and wrapped it around and they have not come of since.

We have the external shower connections and was not really happy that the hoses just sit in the rear boot. I would like to enclose them so hoses are not entangled or damaged. I did like the idea of disconnecting the hose and having that separate with a tap type connector (means the shower tent can be away from the van), but another hose to store or isolate them in the boot. DONT HAVE A SHOWER :(

We do not run the van on gas, as we are using powered sites most of the time, but I did run the fridge (150 litre) on gas for awhile and the van had a very strong odour. I would nearly suggest that it is like "hot" wood or wood dust, but not sure. I know that gas fridges will smell a little as the "protective coverings" are burnt off. Can anyone help and tell me how long this should take, I have run the fridge on gas for 2 days (I am not game to run it overnight) is this long enough or would the smell last longer. I have removed the microwave to check that surface and it is not hot. It is normal for a bad smell on the first couple of times when using the gas. Our eagel did the same thing but it was worse than our Panda. It is ok now but it makes you worry that something is burning. I think it just burning off the excess insulation...

Well now onto the planned improvements

From the forum I really like the:


Major change

Would like to add a toolbox style box on the front (A frame) this would be able to house the Annex and all fittings, a Webber Q (baby), a spare gas bottle (does not need to be connected) and the tpx ladder. If the A frame was clean then this would not be a problem, however there is an existing gas bottle (only one) and the spare wheel to content with. Do people have ideas / pictures / measurements etc that you have done or seen to help out. I am not sure that I want to do home made specifically but I would happily draw / draft it for a shop to manufacture if I can find one in Adelaide.

Forum discussions on toolbox and mods on A Frame (that I have found):



Cheers
Steve
Answers in the blue :)
 

Burnsy

Well-Known Member
Mar 26, 2012
2,663
977
113
Newcastle
Hi Millers,

I like your mods, especially for the annex walls. As far as some of your issues I have had problems with screws stripping also, I believe its not the screw size but its to do with the soft type of ply Jayco use. What I have done to a few cupboards is use aquadhere (wood glue) in the screw hole and then push in a match stick. When glue is dry (overnight) then carefully trim the match stick off flush with cupboard door, you may need to re-drill hole for screw as the match is harder than the door material and the screw will tend to want to go in next to the original hole.

After doing this Iv'e never had a problem so keep a box of matches and glue in your van. Also the overhead cupboards have a spring in the hinge that can be adjusted for the tension but in my opinion is way to heavy, it only needs to hold the door up so I will get around to changing these springs to a smaller guage, this is one door I did the match thing with as it ripped both screws out due to too much tension. Apart from that the only other issue Iv'e had the same as you is the smell from the fridge, I know what you mean about being paranoid but it seems to be the paint burning off the exhaust flue which is normal and will dissipate in time. Hope this helps.

Cheers!
 
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millers

Active Member
Mar 25, 2011
282
246
43
Adelaide
Sturt
Will check the plumbing and replace seals and o rings
Glad I am not the only one with the draw issues
No shower - saves water as well
Will give the fridge another run on gas and see if the smell has gone.


Thanks Steve
 

benandjordansmum

Active Member
Feb 8, 2012
170
52
28
Logan Village, Qld
Hi Millers,

We had the draw issue as well. We glued it back together and put a zip tie around it but it broke again. I will give Stuart's idea a go. Though it is only the door side that keeps breaking and Pete said he is going to put a timber packer in the draw to hold the runner up as well, as all the support is on that back plastic bracket.
 
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Big Gee

Member
Apr 8, 2011
319
14
18
The ACT
Wow what a report! Great work Steve.

I have the issue with the water inlet leaking. We have an outback and the dripping has stained the diamond plate. :frusty: I plan to move the inlet to under the van as well, there is just not enough hours in the day:doh:

Shaun
 
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boots33

Well-Known Member
Jun 25, 2011
708
679
93
Maudsland Gold Coast Hinterland Qld
We do not run the van on gas, as we are using powered sites most of the time, but I did run the fridge (150 litre) on gas for awhile and the van had a very strong odour. I would nearly suggest that it is like "hot" wood or wood dust, but not sure. I know that gas fridges will smell a little as the "protective coverings" are burnt off. Can anyone help and tell me how long this should take, I have run the fridge on gas for 2 days (I am not game to run it overnight) is this long enough or would the smell last longer. I have removed the microwave to check that surface and it is not hot.

We have the 150l fridge and had the same smells the first few times we used it on gas. It does take a while but the smell will go after a bit of use.

We also suffer with that annoying drip from the water inlet.
 
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Angus

Member
Apr 13, 2012
71
35
18
Brisbane
We have the problem with the water leaking at the inlet also but seems to stop after a day. As for the fridge at the handover of our camper the guy said you need to run the fridge for a while before you go camping for the first time as it will stink out the van. I believe they paint the flues for some reason.
 

ElectricGuru

Member
Sep 5, 2011
189
22
18
SE Brisbane
Hey Steve, great report. Really like the idea about the annex walls, the big bag just doesn't fit anywhere.

As Capt Gadget says, use the thicker o ring but get the water based lube from the hardware as the petroleum base of vasoline eats the seal rubber over time. Costs about $4 and comes in a little yellow tube. (Sorry Pace, had some advice from a plumber mate on that)

Also get the LEDs, just did our van with the flat 36's and makes a massive difference on light levels and power usage. Couple of threads here to help sort that out.

Cheers!
 

millers

Active Member
Mar 25, 2011
282
246
43
Adelaide
Outside Light Modification

Hi all,

Thanks to Jim and Tab for supplying the LED kits for the expanda. All installed and very happy.

For the outside light I liked the idea of having the 2 48 LEDs but could also see reasons for just using 1.

So I decided to have both and add an additional switch to allow either 1 or 2 to be on.

Initial thought was to place a small switch on the outside through the clear plastic.

I will not go through the light removal process as this is covered else where, but once the light was removed I decided to place the extra switch on the side of the existing switch like this.

OutsideLightSwitch002.JPGOutsideLightSwitch001.JPG

The one on the left shows the finished mod and the one on the right shows the mounting of the switch. I did need to enlarge the hole to in the wall to allow for the extra cables (one from the main switch to the new switch and an extra one up the wall and out to the light fitting).

The mounting of the switch is very tight and I needed to cut a pin off to get it mounted.

The additional wire (red in the picture) was run down the wall and across and out the light fitting. (See below) The original wiring had connectors up above the range hood. I removed these and used the slack in the cable to push the cable out through the hole (needed to us a drill to clean out the unwanted silicone).

InsideLight.JPGExtraWire001.JPG

With the wires pushed through, I removed the old lamp holder and cut the post off to make a flat surface. Then mounted the LEDs and wired them up, I have added some small flat head screws into the plastic to help hold the LEDs in place.

OutsideLight.JPG

So now I have the advantage of both worlds. I must admit my motivation for doing the switch was so that I only had to take the light to pieces once and I have the option of how much light.

Cheers
Stephen
 

millers

Active Member
Mar 25, 2011
282
246
43
Adelaide
Table LED

Hi all,

The second modification to do with lighting was to but a 36 LED light bar with swivel and inbuilt switch above the table.

As there is a junction box just back from the table in the overheads this was used to tap into as follows.

LED_TableWiring001.JPG

From there the wires are run into the overhead above the table and down and across the bottom to the front along and then in and through the bottom.

LED_TableWiring002.JPG

On the bottom the light is fitted with 2 screws (with a little liquid nails) and then the wiring soldered together (shown here with the end cap off).

LED_TableLight001.JPG

The result (with no other inside lights and no flash) is

LED_Table003.JPG

Cheers
Stephen
 
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millers

Active Member
Mar 25, 2011
282
246
43
Adelaide
Hi all,

Slow with the mods, but here are two more.

First is the TV, which I need to thank the forum for. As I have the .1B the logical place to but it was in the back corner.
I am not good at Latin but we need a translation for "I saw, I ebayed, I installed" a bit like Veni, vidi, vici.

TV_Mount_001.png

The next was some storage tubes for the waste hoses. My waste hose is 2 metre lengths of hose using irrigation joiners to join as required (I carry 5 of them). I have placed them two (2) 75mm storm water pipes that sit on top of the rear bumper and below the frame. As a straight section this gap would take about 72mm. This means that the pipes are held in place by pressure only (may look to fix at a later date). The only problem with 75mm is that it does not have screw on caps. So I found some 75 x 30mm nylon block and cut two circles out with a 76 mm hole saw. This gave me the two plugs which I added some strapping to for handles. Needed to trim the plugs slightly to make them fit (used a file). The two pieces left over between the circles were then used as spacers to separate the pipes. Glued end gaps to road side ends and then the plugs on the other end. Currently use a reusable cable tie to stop the plugs from falling out or working inwards.

Rear_Tubes_001.png Rear_Tubes_002.png Rear_Tubes_003.png Rear_Tubes_005.png

Cheers
Steve
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veni,_vidi,_vici