HWS switch and anode

[chartrock]

The 240v switch on my HWS had jammed and needed replacing. I found the genuine switch for the Suburban for $32 but then found Jaycar had a similar switch @ $3.50. Go figure. :barbershop_quartet_member:

Replaced the switch and decided to replace the anode as well. The van has had no water or power connected for about 3 months and the 12v switch has been off all that time as well. I unscrewed the anode, undoing the last couple of turns by hand. The anode exploded out of the heater with tremendous force hitting the shade cloth more than a metre away and drenching me. Glad I wasn't standing directly in front. I don't understand how it held that much pressure for so long.

But all good now for another 12 months.

 

[Brad]

So are you saying you have not turned your hot water tap on for three months?

 

[Xpandafan]

The old "missed the pressure relief valve" trick. A cautionary tale for everyone. The HWS unit is a closed system that operates (as you've discovered) at very high pressure - Over 100psi as I recall. Also advisable to open sink tap before tackling the anode.

 

[Kimberley D]

Woah! I forgot the 'turning on of kitchen tap' hint when I changed the anode recently. The pressure relief valve was obviously enough as no scary story to tell like Chartrock's. Think I got to it just in time as well as was just a stick with not even scum stuff on it.

 

[chartrock]

So are you saying you have not turned your hot water tap on for three months?

That's right, the van has not been used at all. I hang my head in shame. Still, we may get away next week with a bit of luck.

 

[Xpandafan]

Another HWS tip. When you take the old anode out, remember to flush the HWS tank out by sticking a hose in the hole, before fitting new anode. Guaranteed to get you wet, but gets rid of most of the residue.

 

[Feldty]

Hi Guys,
How often should the anode be replaced?

 

[relgate]

Another HWS tip. When you take the old anode out, remember to flush the HWS tank out by sticking a hose in the hole, before fitting new anode. Guaranteed to get you wet, but gets rid of most of the residue.

a quick note about this. In my case I flooded my van when doing this. It turns out that the HWS is not sealed against the van wall (on mine anyway). water travelled down the gap and into the kitchen cupboard. Perhaps Jayco ran out of silicone?

 

[RidgePanda]

So, being a newbie..........and wanting to know the answer to @Feldty's question above as well, but where is this annode, inside or outside the van, perhaps for newbies can someone put up a brief guide to all things anode please. :biggrin-26:

 

[Xpandafan]

The anode should be replaced (or a least checked every year) depending on the nature of the water you are using. Some people claim years of service but I'd be a bit sceptical because the rod degrades when its actually doing it's job.It's the large hex nut (1 1/16") at the bottom centre of the HWS tank Below the burner. The anodes are about $30-35 (Sometimes cheaper on eBay) but get a magnesium one for fresh water rather than aluminum. Note the cautions in the previous posts.

 

[RidgePanda]

The anode should be replaced (or a least checked every year) depending on the nature of the water you are using. Some people claim years of service but I'd be a bit sceptical because the rod degrades when its actually doing it's job.It's the large hex nut (1 1/16") at the bottom centre of the HWS tank Below the burner. The anodes are about $30-35 (Sometimes cheaper on eBay) but get a magnesium one for fresh water rather than aluminum. Note the cautions in the previous posts.

Thanks Xpandafan very helpful, well it will be when i look in daylight tomorrow! Silly question how do you know if it needs to be replaced, ie its degraded?

 

[Xpandafan]

It degrades down to a bit of wire. Check on the web (suburban HWS anode) and you'll see what new one looks like. If yours looks like it's half gone, it's time to replace. There's a few pics on this forum from memory. Check out this posting
http://expandasdownunder.com/threads/draining-hot-water-service-refilling.795/#post-8045

Draining the hot water system and checking the anode

 

[brookes2622]

The 240v switch on my HWS had jammed and needed replacing. I found the genuine switch for the Suburban for $32 but then found Jaycar had a similar switch @ $3.50. Go figure. :barbershop_quartet_member:

Replaced the switch and decided to replace the anode as well. The van has had no water or power connected for about 3 months and the 12v switch has been off all that time as well. I unscrewed the anode, undoing the last couple of turns by hand. The anode exploded out of the heater with tremendous force hitting the shade cloth more than a metre away and drenching me. Glad I wasn't standing directly in front. I don't understand how it held that much pressure for so long.

But all good now for another 12 months.

Hey chartrock reckon you could throw up a how-to on replacing the switch? I started a thread on it and got no reply's so I removed the switch and the wires didn't come with. So I have started removing the HWS but want to get some idea how so I don't bugger it up like the switch.

 

[chartrock]

G'day Brookes, I knew there was a thread but I could not find it. The switch can be removed by getting a screw driver under the edges and gently levering it up but I found I had to remove the gas unit blocking access to it. Just undid the pipes in and out and 4 screws holding it. The trap I found with the switch was that the wire connectors are right angle type and don't allow the switch to pull straight out. It requires the switch to be tilted (in my case towards the front of the van) and slid sideways to remove the switch with the wires attached.

If your switch came out without the wires then you may be able to pull them out with long nose pliers (make sure you don't have power to the van ) or you could try a small wire hook. I would certainly fish for them rather the pull the unit out.

Let me know if I can help any other way.

 

[brookes2622]

Thanks chartrock I got the LNP onto the wires but they do not have any slack. So can't pull then through. So time to pull out the unit. What a PITA! I have removed the surround, trying not to destroy the goo holding it on. I am now trying the unit but think I will need to disconnect the gas.

Has anyone removed the HWS and can provide me with ant tips or hints just in case?

 

[chartrock]

Mate, they do have quite a bit of slack. I spent quite a bit of time also trying to pull the wires out and they appeared to be too short to come out but the connector where it pushed onto the spade turns at 80 degrees to where it pushes on and the wire catches behind the edge of the hole. Try twisting the connector and gently pull it out. Mine had about 100mm of length when I pulled them out.

 

[brookes2622]

Thanks chartrock. I have managed to get the wires out and as you say about 100mm, mine perhaps 80mm. I reassembled the HWS brackets and reattached the door etc with a view that I don't now need to take the system out. Just spend about an hour trying to fiddle the wires back in on the new switch and had to have a calming cleansing ale to sooth the nerves. Still not in I can see it might go in and am even thinking that replacing the spades with straight ones may be easier but 80mm may not be enough room for me to work after removing a few mm with the old connectors. I have no lights in the shed so I have a backup excuse to down tools. Anyhow, I think I'll take a chair out and as a last resort I'll remove the Gas assembly.

 

[chartrock]

Great stuff brookes, glad you got them out but it is no big deal to remove the gas assembly. Undo the pipe at the top and the small pipe at the bottom and 4 screws and it comes off with easy access to the switch. Again, it is just a matter of tilting the switch to the side and it can slip in.

Mate, it may take more than one nerve settling ale to finish the job but I also found a few "magic words" chanted over the job helped me immensely.

 

[brookes2622]

Great stuff brookes, glad you got them out but it is no big deal to remove the gas assembly. Undo the pipe at the top and the small pipe at the bottom and 4 screws and it comes off with easy access to the switch. Again, it is just a matter of tilting the switch to the side and it can slip in.

Mate, it may take more than one nerve settling ale to finish the job but I also found a few "magic words" chanted over the job helped me immensely.

I got those words down pat after 1/2 removing the HWS and then seeing your post about the "elbow spade"

Anyhow, you got me before I disconnected all the gas and water so thanks for that mercy.

 

[chartrock]

That's what the forum is about. Glad to be able to help.