How to raise Ford Falcon FG MK II rear suspension

[Drover]

Depending on the coding of the ECU sometimes you can't get the tranny temp even with a scan gauge or other OBDII device, stupid car makers playing secret squirel with their programming...............

Not only colour and smell of oil don't forget the viscosity test, with some oil between 2 fingers slowing part the finger tips the oil should adhere just like some gooey snot, if you don't know what thats like, clean fingers well before finding out...lol,lol,lol, description given to me years and years ago by a great spanner man.

I have found by manually doing the gear shifts I can keep my tranny down to low 90's most of the time while in auto It will be 100 or more, did a recent comparison with mates who has a seperate cooler fitted with fan and his was similar to mine with no cooler but his bull bar lights and winch cover parts where on mine the grill area is wide open as the genuine bull bar keeps the bottom of grill clear.........................so many things can cause things to work harder, with mine when I find the "round tuit " and add the cooler i may be okay with leaving in auto when towing, one day...........................

 

[Boots in Action]

Depending on the coding of the ECU sometimes you can't get the tranny temp even with a scan gauge or other OBDII device, stupid car makers playing secret squirel with their programming...............

Not only colour and smell of oil don't forget the viscosity test, with some oil between 2 fingers slowing part the finger tips the oil should adhere just like some gooey snot, if you don't know what thats like, clean fingers well before finding out...lol,lol,lol, description given to me years and years ago by a great spanner man.

I have found by manually doing the gear shifts I can keep my tranny down to low 90's most of the time while in auto It will be 100 or more, did a recent comparison with mates who has a seperate cooler fitted with fan and his was similar to mine with no cooler but his bull bar lights and winch cover parts where on mine the grill area is wide open as the genuine bull bar keeps the bottom of grill clear.........................so many things can cause things to work harder, with mine when I find the "round tuit " and add the cooler i may be okay with leaving in auto when towing, one day...........................

Agreed @Drover , I too had been told about the viscosity thing many years ago when I was first driving - the oil dilution factor with the unburnt petrol and water vapour finding its way into the sump, especially if only doing short trips and engine never getting to proper operating temp to boil/burn off this fluid. Harder to do with tranny oil though. Even when new, it is very thin and viscous!! But I do realise the importance and protection it provides.
After receiving the advice from @bigcol about scan gauges, I did a bit of research and saw a couple, but few that particularly suit my model Colorado.Then went onto a forum about Scan gauges for Holden Colorados and was not impressed. It seems that none of the Holden dealers want to know about error codes that come up, and don't want to give out info - just like you said. To get some sense out of them, they want you to leave the vehicle with them for a day (or longer) and leave your wallet and open cheque/ credit card as well.
I don't quite drive my Colorado in a manual form, but do move selector into neutral at every opportunity when I stop - (lights, traffic hold up etc) to avoid leaving clutches in auto engaged whilst not moving. And I am not reluctant to select the individual gear needed for heavier pulling as well as hitting the "power" button.
Might have to invest in an oil cooler to help keep tranny temp down below "red light" status and make the transmission last longer .

 

[bigcol]

hmmmm, did not realise that the Colorado was not as popular as I thought, for Scan Gauge
oh well

what about one of these @Boots in Action

 

[Boots in Action]

hmmmm, did not realise that the Colorado was not as popular as I thought, for Scan Gauge
oh well

what about one of these @Boots in Action

View attachment 59851

Now you are talking @bigcol !! Where did you pick up on that one - cost, fitting and placement in/on dash. More info please.

 

[bigcol]

Now you are talking @bigcol !! Where did you pick up on that one - cost, fitting and placement in/on dash. More info please.

click the link...........

placement is at your discretion...........................

 

[Johnanbev]

@Drover I Went looking around engine bay of my new MY 2018 Colorado a month or so back, couldn't find a transmission dipstick.
Called the local Hoden dealer, mildly panicked, was informed that it is now a sealed system, no dipstick.
My previous Colorado MY 2012, I am led to believe that the trigger temp for transmission warning was 132C.
I don't tink I ever saw a temp above 109C

 

[Boots in Action]

@Drover I Went looking around engine bay of my new MY 2018 Colorado a month or so back, couldn't find a transmission dipstick.
Called the local Hoden dealer, mildly panicked, was informed that it is now a sealed system, no dipstick.
My previous Colorado MY 2012, I am led to believe that the trigger temp for transmission warning was 132C.
I don't tink I ever saw a temp above 109C

Hi @Johnanbev , I was aware that the latest Colorado had a different system for checking the engine oil - something about " life left in oil" before change recommended. But a sealed (for how long??) and how often do they now recommend a tranny oil change?? So now no way of checking until it fails or gets checked by service person?? Intriguing! My 2011 Colorado does not have any tranny temp gauge and the info you have provided about trigger temp for light is as high as 132C frightens me a bit. I have been told that the newer autos CAN handle higher temps for a while, but what are "higher temps" and what is "a while"?? How did you know what the tranny temp on your 2012 Colorado was - did it have a temp gauge?? Any info would be helpful. Thanks

 

[bigcol]

hey @Boots in Action , my 2004 Landcruiser has a seal auto box as well........ service interval is 200K
not my idea of a good idea, but, you get that

the cruiser has only ever towed our van twice......

 

[Johnanbev]

Hi @boots

Hi @Johnanbev , I was aware that the latest Colorado had a different system for checking the engine oil - something about " life left in oil" before change recommended. But a sealed (for how long??) and how often do they now recommend a tranny oil change?? So now no way of checking until it fails or gets checked by service person?? Intriguing! My 2011 Colorado does not have any tranny temp gauge and the info you have provided about trigger temp for light is as high as 132C frightens me a bit. I have been told that the newer autos CAN handle higher temps for a while, but what are "higher temps" and what is "a while"?? How did you know what the tranny temp on your 2012 Colorado was - did it have a temp gauge?? Any info would be helpful. Thanks

Hi Boots in Action, The 2012 Colorado RG has a tranny temp indicator and the max temp info came from the dealer service department after I asked the specific question.
The new truck has an engine oil life indicator expressed as a percentage of new oil. How this is determined I don't know. The truck has an hour meter for both idle and drive engaged which may be used to asess oil condition, I couldn't imagine that an off the shelf truck engine would have a method of determining oil viscocity or contamination levels, so am just speculating. The operator book says to have the oil serviced if the oil life warning comes on, even though the service period may still have time or milage to run.

 

[chartrock]

The BT50 has a sealed transmission, no dipstick, no means of checking. The service period is around 200,000 km (I think).

 

[Drover]

Sealed transmissions have been around for decades, some have the tube with an end cap others there's a plug where the dip tube used to live, while the oil may have a long life, the filters work gets harder and harder and a lot of Transmission Specialists recommend changes earlier around the 40 - 50K mark, as after 100K tranny trouble means a new box.
Some vehicles with no tube or dip stick to check the oil the service bloke removes the plug and inserts a dip stick, using the oil temp and height of oil on stick tells you if its full or not.......They are not sealed, they can be changed some put out the PR that no dip stick means the oil stays cleaner, smoke and mirrors, more like cost cutting...........the sludge in the pan of my dipable tranny is just the same as the amount in my sealed tranny, bad enough after 40K hate to see at 100K.

With engine oils again the life of the oil is far more with the syn oil nowadays but its filter changes that help it last, oil testing is the only way to really know if the oil is still good and at the price and time involved changing more often probably cheaper........This run I'm on, an engine oil change will come up I will change the filter but may hold off on the oil till later.

Old work place had long service intervals on engine and trans for the Kennies and Volvo's but the oils were tested regularly and filters changed, I can't recall the distances for the oil but they were big Km's but if the test came back in the neg then it was changed, it also gave early signs of problems doubt if any engine could diagnos itself properly.

New Cruiser's the ECU will tell you when the fuel filter needs to be changed, mates did it at 85K, now that is scary, he was towing at the time, assumed it was changed at service but no, not great if he was half up the Cape, he now changes it at 20K..............I honestly believe its more to cutting the cost of servicing the vehicles, 200K for a tranny service is ludicrous without any oil testing regime in place.

The RG Colorado with the 6 speed GM box has a 150K service or 70K if towing.........as for 132 deg temp, thats scary........

 

[Drover]

As for reading your Engine Data, the OBDII data is an International procedure for reading engine management systems, the basic data is common but each manufacturer has their own additional system which can't be read by generic units or programmes like Scan Gauge or Torque Pro, Chrysler you need a DRBIII reader which last time I looked for the whole thing was a couple of grand, similar for Ford, GM, Toyota etc the biggy machines that read the lot cost much more.

http://www.obdii.com/

The standard OBDII codes are freely available on the internet or in books, the ones for certain brands can be found if you look hard or subscribe to a site but you need a reader.....Apps like Torque Pro can be modified with new code when someone discovers/cracks the ECU codes for certain vehicles sensors.

Of more worry is the trend to have no hard copy workshop manual available, it all being online and only available by subscription to the manufacture by workshops, makes the side of the road breakdown very hard to fix because how many mechanics can afford to have such costly manuals.

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi @boots

Hi Boots in Action, The 2012 Colorado RG has a tranny temp indicator and the max temp info came from the dealer service department after I asked the specific question.
The new truck has an engine oil life indicator expressed as a percentage of new oil. How this is determined I don't know. The truck has an hour meter for both idle and drive engaged which may be used to asess oil condition, I couldn't imagine that an off the shelf truck engine would have a method of determining oil viscocity or contamination levels, so am just speculating. The operator book says to have the oil serviced if the oil life warning comes on, even though the service period may still have time or milage to run.

Thanks for the info @Johnanbev. A sensor in the oil system (sump?) probably measures the turbidity or dirtiness of oil and when insufficient clarity of light on to a sensor plate, warning light comes on. A similar system now exists in dishwashers.

 

[Drover]

If you have an android phone @Boots in Action check out the Torque Pro app, I've been using it for years to read the ECU's on various vehicles, with a Bluetooth OBDII dongle it's portable and readable on phone or tablet, it can be upgraded and sensor pick up code can be added............very versatile.

 

[Boots in Action]

Sealed transmissions have been around for decades, some have the tube with an end cap others there's a plug where the dip tube used to live, while the oil may have a long life, the filters work gets harder and harder and a lot of Transmission Specialists recommend changes earlier around the 40 - 50K mark, as after 100K tranny trouble means a new box.
Some vehicles with no tube or dip stick to check the oil the service bloke removes the plug and inserts a dip stick, using the oil temp and height of oil on stick tells you if its full or not.......They are not sealed, they can be changed some put out the PR that no dip stick means the oil stays cleaner, smoke and mirrors, more like cost cutting...........the sludge in the pan of my dipable tranny is just the same as the amount in my sealed tranny, bad enough after 40K hate to see at 100K.

With engine oils again the life of the oil is far more with the syn oil nowadays but its filter changes that help it last, oil testing is the only way to really know if the oil is still good and at the price and time involved changing more often probably cheaper........This run I'm on, an engine oil change will come up I will change the filter but may hold off on the oil till later.

Old work place had long service intervals on engine and trans for the Kennies and Volvo's but the oils were tested regularly and filters changed, I can't recall the distances for the oil but they were big Km's but if the test came back in the neg then it was changed, it also gave early signs of problems doubt if any engine could diagnos itself properly.

New Cruiser's the ECU will tell you when the fuel filter needs to be changed, mates did it at 85K, now that is scary, he was towing at the time, assumed it was changed at service but no, not great if he was half up the Cape, he now changes it at 20K..............I honestly believe its more to cutting the cost of servicing the vehicles, 200K for a tranny service is ludicrous without any oil testing regime in place.

The RG Colorado with the 6 speed GM box has a 150K service or 70K if towing.........as for 132 deg temp, thats scary........

Well there @Drover, your last comment about what @Johnanbev said about tip in temp warning light of 132C for transmission on my tug HAS put the wind up me a bit!! And @bigcol's in depth info also frightened me some more too!! As my tug is "rated' to tow 3 tonne and my little Penguin would normally be only 1.3t gross, I hesitated about spending money on an oil cooler at this stage, but admit that would be the ultimate.
However, as there did not appear to be a suitable simple Scan Gauge, I have opted for a twin sensor digital gauge for around $150.00. The engine temp sensor is bolted onto a convenient empty bolt hole at the side of the engine block (near thermostat housing) and the transmission sensor is bolted onto a very convenient flat lug with hole through it towards the rear and near the top of at the housing. Very easy to fit and no permanent alterations to tug other than running wires from sensors to digital readout display which I have set up in spare spot below radio. Will send photos tomorrow if I can. So far, all running has been local (no van) with longest distance of only 38 kms non stop and engine temp reached only 83C and tranny temp reached only 78C even after a high speed run of 110 kph over a distance of 8kms. Ambient temp was 29C in the shade. Have currently set the "warning light/alarm" at 90C for both eng and tran, and will see how I go when towing van to Poona this Saturday. At least I will know what the "normal" temps are and can be on the look out for rising/higher temps. Below are the links for my unit plus info on transmission temps.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TM4-Twin-Engine-Transmission-Temperature-Warning-Alarm-SUITS-ALL-VEHICLES/142742691829?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p
From reading other sites about tranny temps, it seems that 80 to 95C is the preferred range whilst above 107C is the start of "varnish" and further issues.

www.thetransmissioncentre.com.au/general-information/
Hope this works for me.

 

[Drover]

Towing Big Mal the most my tranny temp gets to is about 104 usually when I'm not paying attention but mostly in the 87 to 96 range towing, I can achieve that by going manual if left on it's own it will climb higher, I too hold to the view that anything over 106 for long periods is not doing anything any good and 130 is just plain scary..........................when solo running the temps are a bit lower but its usually in auto then as well.

I take little notice of dealer information its usually to cover their bum more than improve things.

I like the sound of that temp set up I will have to read a bit more about it as Scan gauges and similar are a distraction a nice simple gauge beats them hands down, they are good gear in the workshop though...

That article on tranny's is exactly what I've followed and why I change my tranny oil earlier than the recommended .


I hope the weather has improved up Poona way ,kids were at our place for easter and went home early as the weather was crap and beaches non existent.

 

[Boots in Action]

Towing Big Mal the most my tranny temp gets to is about 104 usually when I'm not paying attention but mostly in the 87 to 96 range towing, I can achieve that by going manual if left on it's own it will climb higher, I too hold to the view that anything over 106 for long periods is not doing anything any good and 130 is just plain scary..........................when solo running the temps are a bit lower but its usually in auto then as well.

I take little notice of dealer information its usually to cover their bum more than improve things.

I like the sound of that temp set up I will have to read a bit more about it as Scan gauges and similar are a distraction a nice simple gauge beats them hands down, they are good gear in the workshop though...

That article on tranny's is exactly what I've followed and why I change my tranny oil earlier than the recommended .


I hope the weather has improved up Poona way ,kids were at our place for easter and went home early as the weather was crap and beaches non existent.

Thanks for the comparison @Drover . At least it gives me some figures to base my own running on. Yeah, the weather up here at the moment is far from "beautiful one day, perfect the next!", but I am not too worried about the beaches in the Poona area. It is what is in the water swimming around that I will be chasing. Hope your intensive fishing style has not been too detrimental to the area and that there is some still around for poor amateurs like me.

 

[Drover]

Not much to worry about from me in that regard, don't think anyone has been able to go fishing up there for a few weeks so you should be right...

 

[Boots in Action]

Towing Big Mal the most my tranny temp gets to is about 104 usually when I'm not paying attention but mostly in the 87 to 96 range towing, I can achieve that by going manual if left on it's own it will climb higher, I too hold to the view that anything over 106 for long periods is not doing anything any good and 130 is just plain scary..........................when solo running the temps are a bit lower but its usually in auto then as well.

I take little notice of dealer information its usually to cover their bum more than improve things.

I like the sound of that temp set up I will have to read a bit more about it as Scan gauges and similar are a distraction a nice simple gauge beats them hands down, they are good gear in the workshop though...

That article on tranny's is exactly what I've followed and why I change my tranny oil earlier than the recommended .


I hope the weather has improved up Poona way ,kids were at our place for easter and went home early as the weather was crap and beaches non existent.

Hi @Drover, @bigcol and @Johnanbev , I took some photos of my "safety temp" sensor system which I have fitted as a result of all the good feedback I received from you all. It is a simple system which I hope will give me some margin of safety and a warning (visual and audible) if the going gets tough. It may also be of help to some of our members on this forum. @mikerezny , this might suit your arrangement in lieu of oil cooler???
The first pic is how it is mounted into spare slot in dash. Held in place with velcro, so no drilling and can be removed. Power is from cig lighter below. Sensor cables come in from the back too.
The second one shows the engine temp sensor (red connector open "eye" fitting) attached to engine block near front - I used a spare bolt hole already there.
The third one shows the fitting to a flat lug (for lifting?) which was conveniently placed towards the rear of transmission and fairly high up - clear of anything that might catch on it. The yellow stuff on thread is to prevent nut coming off as not too much pressure can be applied without damaging sensor attached to "eye" fitting. The cable in protective corrugated plastic sheathing goes over the top of tranny and out of harm's way.
The final pic shows the current temp for engine and transmission when I turned on the ignition and after the alarm settings had been displayed and disappeared off screen. Engine had not been run for several hours so temp indicated ambient temp.
Will be fully tested this weekend. Cheers

 

[JT76]

Interesting reading re autos. I have been monitoring my trans temps for a while now and with a bigger heavier van coming I will be interested in any change in temp and if I go down the tranny cooler path or not.

@Boots in Action the scenario you described when your light came on would probably be the same even with a tranny cooler. Driving at 20 or 30km you wouldn’t get enough air flow for the tranny cooler to help and it would of got just as hot. Now that you can see what’s happening with your temp gauges you could drive to suit and reduce temps. (Edit ive changed my mind , with a decent thermo fan attached to the cooler it would help),

Change my “sealed box” at 45k and all looked good but happy I didn’t leave it any longer. My temps will sit on 97 / 98 all day reagardless of how I drive. Around town, freeway manually selecting or left in auto. It takes a while to slowly climb but after 40ish mins it will hit the same temps every time. This is all with out towing. Even a beach run for about 2 hours it never hit 100 which surprised me.

Towing it wanted to sit at around 106 with the highest ever recorded was 109 up a very long incline sitting on 100km/h. I was in touch with local auto shop and these temps are normal and he didn’t recommend a cooler yet as I mentioned getting a heavier van and my concerns so his advice was to monitor temps with new van first. While still under warranty adding a cooler may give ford an out as they do not even offer one as an option but after warranty is finished I can see myself probably fitting one.

Only thing that caught my eye in above comments was regarding engine temps being affected by trans temp? What the theory behind this. I would of thought the radiator temp is going to be lower then engine temp and will regulate flow through the thermostate. It would only be when the radiator can’t keep up that outside influences like tranny could hurt it even more and then raise temps. As long as the radiator has enough cooling capacity it should keep engine at correct temps even if trans is boiling itself to pieces.