Grandpa Gunna's 17.58.3 OB mods

Grandpa Gunna

New Member
Dec 29, 2020
9
17
3
Northern Tablelands NSW
First mod was to find 2nd hand rear bumper with wheel carrier to move the spare from front A frame, so the gas bottles could be placed inside A frame and up close to front of van for fitment of a Fiamma bike carrier. (Since removed)

IMG_20210108_121122883.jpg
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Second mod was installation of 30amp Epever MPPT Solar controller and MT 50 Remote display as controller in cupboard under sink.
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replaced Jayco 120w solar panel with 220w (this fitted Jayco brackets). plus separate anderson plugs for portable solar and fused battery connection under side of van.
 

Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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I like the Epever mines a 4210N but all the info on the screen but I might even get a MT50 to replace the one from my old Projecta charger..............., Booties will start crowing now I'm sure............. Tyre rack and the whole lot look good, what else ??????
 
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Grandpa Gunna

New Member
Dec 29, 2020
9
17
3
Northern Tablelands NSW
I like the Epever mines a 4210N but all the info on the screen but I might even get a MT50 to replace the one from my old Projecta charger..............., Booties will start crowing now I'm sure............. Tyre rack and the whole lot look good, what else ??????
@Drover you'll have to wait, doing specialist run today and yes I'll have some things for @Boots in Action
 

Grandpa Gunna

New Member
Dec 29, 2020
9
17
3
Northern Tablelands NSW
It’s all very well having battery and solar power “in“ display, however not being able to see what usage was going out stumped me until I came across @Boots in Action well explained post on how to rewire the Setec load through your solar controller. (Thank you, Thank you)

I was able without to much trouble run the cable to the controller through the cupboards and bingo now have the complete picture of our loads. Being able to see the draw as you turn each load on is very informative.

I have the van permanently connected via anderson plug to controller to a solar panel on roof of shed when at home.

After a while I noticed that I appeared to have a parasitic drain happening, as even with everything off there was a draw on the battery happening. Pulled radio fuse, thinking standby load happening, but no difference. (yes have cheeked what fuses do what, typical Jayco!!!)

So one at a time, pulled all fuses. Main inside light circuit was the culprit, however lights were off, Fuse back in (lights off) parasitic drain showing.

Tried to track down if Sphere Wireless unit has any standby power draw. Couldn’t obtain definite answer from suppliers.

I set about resetting the Sphere wireless head unit Circuit 1 and the drain disappeared from the MT 50 display ( I’m not sure if this circuit had gone into what they call “Pulse” mode!)

Have not had any further problems.

I will have some solar and 12v questions as I set up to be more off grid for longer, currently 1-2 nights. (although 3 females (2 teenagers) vs 1 male, its going to be battle)
(Avatar is taken at Lara Wetlands Barcaldine I would have happily stayed longer but not set up to do so).
 
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Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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Just as long as you dont run the regulator to battery thru the Setek all should be good...... I did find some light wiring had the switch on the earth side of the circuit not on the supply side, that could cause a drain of juice.
I often just shut down the 12v if not in use....
 

jazzeddie1234

Active Member
May 19, 2016
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200
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Mandurah
replaced Jayco 120w solar panel with 220w (this fitted Jayco brackets).
What a great idea. I need a 120 for the tug and the jayco one would do nicely

Edit: Just had a look at 220w on ebay. Found some with the same dimensions as the 120.... Not sure about that now
 
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Boots in Action

Well-Known Member
Mar 13, 2017
1,387
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Ferny Grove, Queensland
It’s all very well having battery and solar power “in“ display, however not being able to see what usage was going out stumped me until I came across @Boots in Action well explained post on how to rewire the Setec load through your solar controller. (Thank you, Thank you)

I was able without to much trouble run the cable to the controller through the cupboards and bingo now have the complete picture of our loads. Being able to see the draw as you turn each load on is very informative.

I have the van permanently connected via anderson plug to controller to a solar panel on roof of shed when at home.

After a while I noticed that I appeared to have a parasitic drain happening, as even with everything off there was a draw on the battery happening. Pulled radio fuse, thinking standby load happening, but no difference. (yes have cheeked what fuses do what, typical Jayco!!!)

So one at a time, pulled all fuses. Main inside light circuit was the culprit, however lights were off, Fuse back in (lights off) parasitic drain showing.

Tried to track down if Sphere Wireless unit has any standby power draw. Couldn’t obtain definite answer from suppliers.

I set about resetting the Sphere wireless head unit Circuit 1 and the drain disappeared from the MT 50 display ( I’m not sure if this circuit had gone into what they call “Pulse” mode!)

Have not had any further problems.

I will have some solar and 12v questions as I set up to be more off grid for longer, currently 1-2 nights. (although 3 females (2 teenagers) vs 1 male, its going to be battle)
(Avatar is taken at Lara Wetlands Barcaldine I would have happily stayed longer but not set up to do so).
Glad the post was useful to you @Grandpa Gunna. A lot of members did not think it would work or that it would release the fire and smoke demons! You are another successful convert. That modification is especially useful for those that have the standard TPS1230 controller normally found in Jayco setups. But as @Drover has previously mentioned, it may take some work and perseverance to run the cabling through cupboards and across the van, but you managed to do it without too much problem. Great!!!
I am looking forward to being of assistance (if I can) on more solar challenges as you venture more off grid for longer periods.
 
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Grandpa Gunna

New Member
Dec 29, 2020
9
17
3
Northern Tablelands NSW
The position of the water pump inside the van under the main bed has always concerned me, so last year when I made the decision to install a diesel heater I had to really start to think about how to move the pump to underneath the van.
IMG_20170415_133622555.jpg


I came across a thread (sorry can’t remember the name), however @Drover referenced his thread, in relation to moving the pump underneath on his 14.4. It gave me some ideas but I was concerned about dust and moisture getting into pump and protection from rocks etc.

An ammo box from S/Cheap caught my eye, it’s the larger one, the following photos show the end result. I don’t think it sounds any noisier, the box is mounted on thin rubber and I believe it is well protected.
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A bit of rerouting piping to also make room for diesel install etc and while at it moved 3way tap to under van next to step for ease of access.
IMG_20210108_121335086.jpg


Having done this I now had the spot to install the diesel heater, (2.2kw from Tassie).

Yes, it was the case of measure a hundred times and cut the hole once.
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I didn’t want to have a permanent tank on the van, so looked around and found 11lt tank and fitted quick disconnect fittings, which is placed inside the new tool box (small) which replaces the bike carrier on the A frame. We don’t have any ticking noise from the pump which is mounted on the frame under door side and fuel pipe runs to tool box.
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The controller is mounted next to bed, bonus!!, don’t have to get out of bed to turn on.

While at Lightning Ridge for 3 days last year the heater was fired up (just to give it a go) and I found even sitting outside under awning you can feel the warmth coming out the door.
 

Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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Very nice mods sir, I like the 50cal ammo box idea I didn't think of one of them when I did it on my 14.44 they are a very useful box to have for many things.....Not being picky but i would put some insulation over my water pipes where they pass thru the cross members, save them chaffing if they flex at all, just clear plastic pipe does the job quite well, I have put my water lines in old pipe insulation and flex conduit, saves any chaffing and from rock hits... If your water pressure and HW temp plays up throw the tempering valve in the bin.............. while they are a good safety device for kids, I'm dubious in a van especially a small one, if your going to burn yourself on the HW tap then hand in your licence I reckon... (incoming now I suppose)

Youv'e got a kink on one of your lines at the tap too...... If tap craps out the Pope garden irrigation taps work well 2 for $6 last I looked.
 

jazzeddie1234

Active Member
May 19, 2016
223
200
43
Mandurah
I did something similar by mounting it directly under the old location to reduce pipe rework. Saves heaps of storage space. Has removable ends for easy access. I also removed the tempering valve and get better hot water to the sinks

IMG_20190212_120543.jpg

I also mounted the heater (aren't they the best!) under the floor using the same method. The pump is now in a different spot to reduce noise and the chux is acting as a fresh air inlet filter as it draws 50/50 from inside/outside

IMG_20190209_112140.jpg
 
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