Has anyone fitted fridge heat extraction fans to the upper external fridge vent, ie: Klevarcool or Karls Kool, and how have you picked up the 12v feed to run the the system? Thanks in advance. I suspect that both manufactures are similar, however I am leaning towards Klevacool as the installation looks to be neater. My 90l Thetford is mounted on the opposite side to the battery, but I can use existing wiring as I am running a new much shorter 8AWG twin core from the Anderson to the fridge. Saving 5 metres of wiring run and associated voltage drop.
Electrical Fridge fans
- Thread starter JamesW
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I have fitted my fridges with fans on the external vent, use a thermo switch to activate when condensor pipe reaches 55 deg, I sourced the power from the 12v van supply connector just inside the bottom vent BUT if yours isn't an auto fridge it won't have it ...... If your fridge is next to or near the stove then have a look in the cupboard between fridge and stove there is usually a 12v supply to stove for the igniter and you can tap into that...... you don't really need a heavy cable just standard auto stuff as the fans draw stuff all..
Bluddy hell I just checked them out, they certainly know how to charge.............
My fans are just 2 x computer power supply fans ( $10 each) glued (liquid nails) to some HD foam onto the vent (floor mat off cut), a normally open 55 deg thermo switch ($7.50 Jaycar) switches them on/off. and I suppose $8 twin core wire form Bunnings....... the fans have been running for about 8 years, thermo switch just replaced after about the same time, they regularly run for a few months at a time without drama..... in fact these fans have outlasted the fridge...
Internal fridge fan was just a CPU fan which came on when fridge was turned on and ran till fridge turned off, no frozen lettuce or eggs then.
Bluddy hell I just checked them out, they certainly know how to charge.............
My fans are just 2 x computer power supply fans ( $10 each) glued (liquid nails) to some HD foam onto the vent (floor mat off cut), a normally open 55 deg thermo switch ($7.50 Jaycar) switches them on/off. and I suppose $8 twin core wire form Bunnings....... the fans have been running for about 8 years, thermo switch just replaced after about the same time, they regularly run for a few months at a time without drama..... in fact these fans have outlasted the fridge...
Internal fridge fan was just a CPU fan which came on when fridge was turned on and ran till fridge turned off, no frozen lettuce or eggs then.
Price is a combination of a number of things. I live in a rural town so online shopping is a normal part of life, and if I shopped around for individual items or drove two hours to my closest regional center the costs to me add up. I do concede there are cheaper options, however I don't have a 3D printer to print parts, and I do love a complete kit delivered to my door. Even a retirees time costs.
Mate I know where your coming from my nearest Bunnings or Dan Murphys in fact any shop beyond a local store is an hours drive away , no city fella here ............. no need for a 3D printer either...... While my fans came from old computers I dismantled, the thermo switch was Ebay, wire and glue from local hardware shop, no fancy housing originally I just zip tied the fans to the vent and the thermo switch is rivetted to a clip .... as an old pensioner my time is valuable but my wallet is usually near empty, at present after replacing the fridge its bone dry and that was all done online.....
Whichever way you go the 12v pick up is the same ....
Whichever way you go the 12v pick up is the same ....
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When I did my fan conversion on our old 3 way I just got the fans and thermo switch from Jaycar and had them delivered as it was Just as COVID was hitting and couldn't go out.
I used 2 x 90mm case fans with led's so you could see from the outside if they were working or not
www.jaycar.com.au
I used 2 x 90mm case fans with led's so you could see from the outside if they were working or not
60°C Thermal Circuit Breaker | Jaycar Electronics
Also referred to as a thermostat, this safety device will protect a circuit against overheating by opening at a targeted threshold. It closes again automatically once a specific lower temperature is reached. Rated to 60 degrees celcius.
In my experience, it is important to ensure that there is no, or little ice buildup on the cooling fins in the fridge compartment. The ice usually builds up o the RHS of the fridge where the coolant enters after it has circulated through the freezer compartment.
Now, this side of the cooling fins is also where the thermostat is clipped to the fins.
Once ice builds up around this area it severely interferes with the ability of the thermostat to then regulate the fridge temperature.
In my fridge ice buildup usual y happens after around 6-7 days. But it will depend on the humidity of the air and especially how often the fridge door is opened.
I have a very small battery powered personal fan which I place on the RHS under the cooling fins immediately after lunch when the ambient is high and thus the fridge has filled with warm outside air. It takes a couple of hours for this to melt the ice, get the fridge regulating correctly, and bring the temperature down. I remove the fan when I next open the fridge.
I have not needed to have a internal fan running continuously. But I note that many people including @Boots in Action have one permanenyly mounted, running continuously and have had good results from doing so.
I had a small CPU fan hanging from a shelf which ran all the time, circulated the air nicely to stop eggs, lettuce and toms freezing, drew power from the internal light which was handy, others have run a small wire out via the drain hole, this new fridge we will see, as it has led lighting and I am hesitant to pull the led housing apart to get at some power, new fridge may not need it.... Ebay has them in battery versions..
The idea of an internal fan is just to keep the air moving so the internal temp is about the same all over instead of the cold just dropping to the bottom.... my beer lives at the bottom....
The idea of an internal fan is just to keep the air moving so the internal temp is about the same all over instead of the cold just dropping to the bottom.... my beer lives at the bottom....
I have been able to avoid the bottom of the fridge freezing vegetables by covering the bottom shelf to make the bottom compartment act like a crisper. On all shelves I have trays with sides high enough to trap cold air and reduce it falling to the bottom and out the door whenever the fridge door is opened.
My old fridge had crisper draws on the bottom new fridge is the same though a different style as they have a vent on top, will see how it goes next run to find out if I need to fit a fan inside, biggest worry is the drain isn't one big hole in this new job but a number of smaller holes so will require enlarging before sticking a wire thru, the led lighting strip may prove difficult to get at to tap in for power though I may be able to make a battery pack for a fan utilising and old Maglite torch body...... probably should dial it down for overnight more often ...
You would definitely need a 12 volt supply to run those fans. I never wanted battery powered fans myself, so invested in some 120mm computer fans capable of extracting a lot of hot air from behind the fridge, thermostat controlled, as I was able to do this on my own and not spend heaps on a pre-built one. On Ebay, bought 2 X 120mm fans (ball bearing type) for approx $7.00 each delivered some years back. Still working without any problem. Wired from battery through a switch (for control purposes) to thermo and then to both fans fridge air vents, attached with zip ties. They only draw approx 250ma each, so only light wire needed. Cost for fans approx $14.00, thermo $1.00, some light wire and a 3 gang electrical switch total less than $25.00 and better than most kits. However, I did all the mucking around myself, which I found easy, but may not suit all people to crawl around through cupboards, drill a few holes and feed wiring through.
I approached the internal fans in the same way to keep "She who must be obeyed" happy with no frozen eggs, lettuce, cucumber etc which were vulnerable to freezing at the bottom of my 93 litre single door Thetford fridge. Once again, I ran a thin 2 core wire from battery, through a switch (so you can turn fan off when opening fridge) and in through the back of fridge through the capillary tube opening for thermostat and to fans, one at the bottom of fridge and the other up near the evaporator so it could move the cooing air past the fins and around the inside of fridge. Not only has this stopped freezing things at the bottom of fridge (Missus now very happy!!!) but both fans move the internal air around to provide a more even temperature. I do not drill any fixtures into sides of fridge, but use Velcro strips on wall of fridge and Velcro on siides of fans which are held away from the walls with standoffs which I bought from Jaycar. Best things I have ever done and have no regrets at all. Internal fans are 50mm at the bottom and 60mm at the top - cheap as chips on Ebay at around $3.00 each. If you have even basic knowledge of 12 volt wiring, it is very easy and cheap. I saved many dollars by doing it all myself. See photos below.
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Im thinking of fitting some fans to the outside of the fridge going to the side vent. If anyone has done this on their fridge, could they please show a photo of their fridge so I can see where they have placed them?. Thanks
They need to go in the top vent to draw heat out and to flow air over the condenser coils. Look up Klevacool or Karls Kool and there are a few good explanatory videos. Then you can decide if you want to DIY or buy a kit. I am going with a Klevacool kit as it's the better finished.
Mine have been stuck to the upper vent for many years, work very well drawing the hot air out, coupled to a 55 deg thermo switch and draws 12v from the fridge 12v van supply............... fixing them to the vents means little air restriction and is easily accessable for any maintenance............ the pic shows them up well when I recently refurbished the fridge cavity to fit a new fridge, fans are glued to a mount of HD foam rubber which is glued (Liquid Nails) to the vent and has held for quite a few years now, no noise or vibration from fans, have tried zip ties, fancy brackets and this works best, my fans are from old power supplies and could be 15 to 20 years old by now .................. Computer power supply fans 75-90mm around the $20 mark, thermo switch $7 assorted wiring and fuse holder so should be doable for under $60, no need for heavy cable just standard auto wiring...... some better pics around but can't find them..
A good look and there are some good threads on the subject
A good look and there are some good threads on the subject
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