Ok so the door entry light is playing up, turns out the switch is dodgy... what next? Well if you have a peek at this thread you will see the type of switch that is needed and the cost should be around $2. icetechaus tells us they can be had for around $13 from the Jayco dealer which is a bit steep but probably worth it if you are close to a dealer. If however you are like me over a 2 hour round trip to the dealer and a bit miffed at paying over 6 times the going rate then read on!
Having had no luck in finding a local drop in replacement I decided this switch from Jaycar might be ok. Now this switch is not as water tight as the original but the switch is in a protected area and mounted upside down so for $1.95 i think it is worth a try. You could also wrap it in cling wrap to give a little more protection. I will post back here if it fails due to water problems.
You can see the difference between the two switches here.
The first thing you will need to do is turn off your battery switch or disconnect your battery as the + wire to the light is live all the time. You will need to make sure no 240v is connected as well or your setec will power the light.
The light is held in place by the five screws around the rim. Just the rubber gasket and no silicone so mine came out very easily. once out you will need to cut the wires at the 2 crimp joiners.
Before we dis-assemble the light mark a line where the backing plate overhangs the handle. this will help us to decide how far down the new switch will need to be mounted to miss this overhang.
You can see in this pic the panel that will need to be modified to fit the new switch
I used a dremel on low speed but it is fairly thin plastic so will be easy to cut by other methods as well.
make the cutout deep enough so that the nut that holds the switch will be bellow the mark we made earlier
cut the wires off the old switch as close to the switch as you can
Connect those wires back up to the new switch and mount the switch back into position.
using two new crimp terminals re-join the lamp wiring to the van wiring.
Refit the light and enjoy the fruits of your labour.
Having had no luck in finding a local drop in replacement I decided this switch from Jaycar might be ok. Now this switch is not as water tight as the original but the switch is in a protected area and mounted upside down so for $1.95 i think it is worth a try. You could also wrap it in cling wrap to give a little more protection. I will post back here if it fails due to water problems.
You can see the difference between the two switches here.
The first thing you will need to do is turn off your battery switch or disconnect your battery as the + wire to the light is live all the time. You will need to make sure no 240v is connected as well or your setec will power the light.
The light is held in place by the five screws around the rim. Just the rubber gasket and no silicone so mine came out very easily. once out you will need to cut the wires at the 2 crimp joiners.
Before we dis-assemble the light mark a line where the backing plate overhangs the handle. this will help us to decide how far down the new switch will need to be mounted to miss this overhang.
You can see in this pic the panel that will need to be modified to fit the new switch
I used a dremel on low speed but it is fairly thin plastic so will be easy to cut by other methods as well.
make the cutout deep enough so that the nut that holds the switch will be bellow the mark we made earlier
cut the wires off the old switch as close to the switch as you can
Connect those wires back up to the new switch and mount the switch back into position.
using two new crimp terminals re-join the lamp wiring to the van wiring.
Refit the light and enjoy the fruits of your labour.
