Journey Finally upgraded battery pack...

Hitting the road

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Jan 14, 2022
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I have at last added the 3rd battery to the battery pack in my JJOB 17.55-1. When I originally upgraded the batteries from AGM to Lithium in April '23 prior to doing the Lap, I saved close to 40kg in weight! The new regulations for Lithium batteries came in to force in November 2023.
I only installed two of the three 135amp Lithiums I had bought as at the time I just couldn't figure out how to fit the third battery in the space under the dinette as it is not very big at all...so just fitted the two batteries in. Besides having the van in storage as I had no where to park it, any mods were difficult to carry out.

The space was so tight even with two batteries that I had to mount the new MPPT in the drawer beside so I could open the drawer to view the readout...no more drama than opening a cupboard though really. The original setup was rushed as well so it didn't have the required fuses either.

I have now cut out a divider that sat between the spaces, put there I'd say as the original AGM was a single 100amp battery so the space beside nearer the power point was usable storage. This enabled me to put the three batteries end to end. The space is just wide enough for the batteries and clamps, and just high enough to clear them. The frame work is all metal so is pretty sound, but there is no seating on top anyway.
Unfortunately though due to this layout I have had to connect the main output to the centre battery which isn't ideal, but is ok, as the lead run from the negative terminal at one end of the pack to the Busbar at the other would have been way too long...had I tried to connect positive at one end and negative at the other.

Anyway...photo of the new setup...

Van batteries.jpg

I now have the 3 x 135amp Lithiums I originally had planned...405amps, which realistically gives me around 325amps usable. My system is based around 300amp output, I have a 300amp Bluetooth enabled Shunt to send info to the JHub reader my van came with, as the BMPRO BMS is only a 12v distribution point now being I have a 30amp Victron Charger to carry out the battery charging role now when on mains.
The space is so tight I have had to use ANL type fuses due to the battery layout having to be length ways not side by side. So each 135amp battery now has a 100amp fuse at the terminal, all cabled to a 300amp Isolater switch which then goes via another 50amp ANL fuse to the 150amp positive Busbar.
The extra red leads going to the positive in the photo are now gone, they were the positives from the battery charger and the solar panels...all now to the busbar.

The area is now fully sealable, and I do have it vented at one end. Being the original mods and replacement of the AGM's was done prior to the new requirements being in place I am ok imo. But, yes it has again been modified I know so by the letter it should be made to fully comply with the new regs...well it is better than it was....and to fully comply would be nigh on impossible anyway due to the small space...and I wasn't going to move it all under the bed with metal boxes...and there is no room to sling it all underneath either. I am sure we won't see any inspections happening in caravan parks and the like to make sure electrical systems comply anyway as the new requirements are not retrospective. The new regs were more to ensure new vans met certain standards.

This just about completes my offgrid electrics...with the two new 200w solar panels on the roof giving me 400w, though wired in series giving me around 40v in to the MPPT, though that will be too light to charge the new battery pack fully if down in amps, so I can easily put out the other 2 x 200w portable panels giving me a series / parallel setup of maybe 800w or 80v, as all wired in series. (The old panel wattage being double the battery amperage rule of thumb is about right)

I've now got a 2000w Inverter to fit, it will be behind the swivel seats above where the wheel arch is...just have some figuring out to do with that fitment...
 

Drover

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Squeezy for sure, a power point in the battery zone could be a problem if a check is done, something I very much doubt of course ..... I doubt the new regs will do much in case of battery melt down, give a few minutes of containing gasses before Krakatoa is unleashed ...
 

Sparksy

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Jul 25, 2020
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So there is almost 3years difference in the ages of the old batteries and the new one? How much do you think the older batteries have diminished in capacity compared to the new one?
 

Hitting the road

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So there is almost 3years difference in the ages of the old batteries and the new one? How much do you think the older batteries have diminished in capacity compared to the new one?

None...they were all bought at the same time, same capacity, same make...and I had been using the 3rd battery in the car when I run the fridge...it traveled around Oz as well as the other 2, always charging from the DC DC in the car ....so no real difference in their age and usage as when ever the Van is hooked up and batteries used the fridge was running in the car anyway. Prior to connecting the three together they were each reading exact same 13.26v charge.
I also have a 120A Lithium that will now run the fridge in the car...
 
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Hitting the road

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Have now fitted the 2000w inverter, fused via a 250A fuse direct to the battery leads at the Busbar connection being the Busbars are only 150A capacity.

With the 2000w inverter running the electric kettle, it is showing around 1850w drain so all good amps wise as well. Even if output were to spike to it's max 3000w output, I estimate the power draw would be approx 83.5A per battery (250A total) for the duration, maybe 15 - 30 seconds, so within system capacity.
Each battery has dual BMS's with 150A output capacity, so could in theory deliver 450A for a few seconds...though my 250A fuse might complain first...

I now just need to organise a sparky to connect the inverter to the 240v input of the van at the RCD so power can go to all outlets...
 
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Drover

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I imagine the sparky will love that as they seem to shudder at the thought of fitting a genny socket on house boards.. The Genny/Inverter must be totally isolated from the mains supply and not by idividual switches and since the RCD doesn't work on Genny's/Inverters, so a double pole RCBO would be the go there and a switch that changes from mains to onboard 240 to keep them physically isolated.......... I wonder if the HWS on the same line will be an issue at all ?
An interesting exercise for sure.
 
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Hitting the road

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Yep...the normal RCD won't work as it should with an Inverter on board as there is no external earth for the RCD to direct any current should there be a short circuit somewhere....or a body in the way. I only wrote RCD above as the input to the van electrical has the RCD near where I have the inverter mounted and will be connected via a RCBO or similar with switching ability between external input and on board input. Being I am a cheapskate I didn't spend extra money to purchase an inverter with inbuilt switching and isolaters.

Plan is when the inverter is in operation, the external 240v power supply to both the fridge and battery charger outlets are also near where the switching will be mounted so just a matter of flicking off those two, and of course leaving the water heater turned off...the fridge can run on gas, as can the water heater when required as usual when off grid.
I am not going to go to the trouble of fancy wiring changes so that the fridge, water heater and battery charger are on separate circuits. Though the inverter will only be switched on as required which really won't be all that often, mainly to run for the bride's hairdryer and occasionally the microwave oven and electric kettle.