I was told ESC works separately to the brake controller controlled brake circuit.Why is the current draw high on the ESC? Doesn't it just apply the brakes acting like a relay? So the electric brake load is still taken through the main circuit ?
From what I have been told from alko and I'm not the fitter is that they are wired through the brake away and it basically applies the brakes through that and from the sensor input from the car the reason the say it needs a pendulum controllerWhy is the current draw high on the ESC? Doesn't it just apply the brakes acting like a relay? So the electric brake load is still taken through the main circuit ?
Well at least in our case Jayco wired it so that it is integrated in to the Brakesafe wiring/controller. Our ESC became deactivated and in chasing the wiring it had connections that went to it. In the birds nest of wiring and connectors underneath the van one connector had become separated. Either poorly put together or something had flicked up and caught on it.From what I have been told from alko and I'm not the fitter is that they are wired through the brake away and it basically applies the brakes through that and from the sensor input from the car the reason the say it needs a pendulum controller
The amount it draws is less than 20 amps a lot if the new fridges draw more than that so I would say it is high
Yep, done that.I know with the Ford Ranger you can have the smart charge function of the alternator disabled by the dealer.
nice work macropod my green lite on the esc is staying on when the prado is off but when I first connect its not on until I start the car mmmm I fear a gremlinI posted this before - at :
http://www.expandasdownunder.com/th...kee-battery-isolator-lessons.4703/#post-67394
But its worth mentioning again.
For those putting in a Redarc battery isolator in their New Jeep Grand Cherokee (or any new car with a variable voltage battery charging system) - beware !
Having just bought our new 20.63.1 OB I had a Redarc battery isolator fitted to the jeep by a reputable auto electrician recommended by the Jayco dealer. The intention was for the isolator to disconnect the van from the battery when the volts fall below 12.7 volts (so when the motor is off) and reconnect the van to the battery when the volts go above 13.2 volts (when the car is running) - pretty standard stuff really. BUT....Jeeps don't play by the same rules as most other cars and the smarts in the jeep doesn't necessarily pump 13.2 volts to the battery when running - it varies the charging volts depending upon what is required.
SO...when we picked up the van the jeep felt that it would charge over 13.2 volts so all was well - the ESC light indicated it was OK, the fridge automatically switched to 12 volt supply - all was nirvana. BUT...the next time we went to tow - no esc/no fridge. So after some research - found out about the Jeeps battery charging "smarts" and disconnected the ESC from the Redarc and went straight to the battery. Not too worried about the fridge at this stage - but its pot luck if the Redarc will activate. You can override the Redarc using an override switch - which is on the cards for me.
SO... if you have a van with ESC, and tow with a Jeep Grand Cherokee, and have a Redarc battery isolator fitted, and your ESC is on the switched side of the Redarc......chances are you wont have the ESC when you need it, and your ice cream will have melted !
Happy for someone with more grey matter to correct me on any of the above as its always fun to learn !
yes I have a redarc thanks for that CJ1177@Bluey if you have a Redarc thats normal & means it's working properly & your battery health is good.
The longer the light stays on after you turn the car off the better condition your battery is in.
I'm not quite sure who/what you are referring to. In case it's about the so called "Smart Charging system" that vehicles such as the Ranger have then my experience has been that running with lights on has nil affect in making it charge at a higher rate. Soon after getting the Ranger, and prior to Ford allowing the system to be deactivated, I had to do a return trip to Adelaide from Darwin. Apart from the short periods just after starting the engine, coasting downhill or to a stop (not much of either it that trip) and moderate to strong braking I didn't see any charging voltage much over 12.2. There were long periods where 11.9 was common and the whole trip was done with headlights on. Now with the Smart Charge deactivated I always see between 13.8 to mid 14's.Try turning your headlights on, the power draw from your lights should keep the alternator running.
No probs @rodney ... Rob said you were about somewhere doing something
Will try and catch up in a fortnight when I drop it off for fitting.
Well there goes my theoryI'm not quite sure who/what you are referring to. In case it's about the so called "Smart Charging system" that vehicles such as the Ranger have then my experience has been that running with lights on has nil affect in making it charge at a higher rate. Soon after getting the Ranger, and prior to Ford allowing the system to be deactivated, I had to do a return trip to Adelaide from Darwin. Apart from the short periods just after starting the engine, coasting downhill or to a stop (not much of either it that trip) and moderate to strong braking I didn't see any charging voltage much over 12.2. There were long periods where 11.9 was common and the whole trip was done with headlights on. Now with the Smart Charge deactivated I always see between 13.8 to mid 14's.