We have a 2015 Jayco Expanda with a Thetford, 3-way 185l fridge. The problem we have is that when driving the fridge does not run and on several very hot trips this has caused lots of problems. Now certainly some of the problems are probably caused by problems with the car's 12 point plug which looks burnt out around the fridge power supply point. However, we are now getting a new Patrol and I wonder if should still get the standard 12 point plug or if I should also get a dedicated anderson plug to supply power to the fridge? If the later, do I also need to fit new high power cables in the caravan rather than keep using the existing cabling?
20' Series Upgrade car power to caravan fridge
- Thread starter Wombat6
- Start date
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- three-way fridge
Use an Anderson plug no real need to change the van wiring but a simple test of voltage at car connection and voltage at fridge will let you know though your van could be taking a little bit of power from that circuit to charge the van battery........or you could just run a dedicated cable (8 B&S) to fridge from your anderson but keep the 12 v connection in the 12 pin as it will provide 12v to van for battery charging via Setek if you want, this does require that circuit to be disconnected from fridge, easy enough just cap the leads when removed from fridge connector at back.
I would also have a read of the installaion Instructions for your fridge, if not in vans handbook you can find it online, then remove the external fridge vents and see if there anre any gaps around the back of the fridge, cable runs sealed off etc, if you find the top of the fridge is open with maybe a hand full of insulation thrown on top then you will need the seal and fit a baffle plate to allow the hot air to escape as this could be a bigger source of your fridge operating problems.. I have driven Winton to Julia crk with fridge off , 38 deg and temp climbed 2 deg ............. it is common for folks to think their fridge is running poorly when it sitting at 3 deg, it's not its a fridge not a freezer.......minimal door opening on hot days and it will work better, kids can be the biggest fridge problem in vans.
I would also have a read of the installaion Instructions for your fridge, if not in vans handbook you can find it online, then remove the external fridge vents and see if there anre any gaps around the back of the fridge, cable runs sealed off etc, if you find the top of the fridge is open with maybe a hand full of insulation thrown on top then you will need the seal and fit a baffle plate to allow the hot air to escape as this could be a bigger source of your fridge operating problems.. I have driven Winton to Julia crk with fridge off , 38 deg and temp climbed 2 deg ............. it is common for folks to think their fridge is running poorly when it sitting at 3 deg, it's not its a fridge not a freezer.......minimal door opening on hot days and it will work better, kids can be the biggest fridge problem in vans.
If you can identify the fridge only wiring on the van then do what Drover said, you need at least an 8 B&S supply run seperately from the battery (via a circuit breaker) to and Anderson plug, then put an Anderson plug on the van just for the fridge. Remember to disconnect the pug when stopped for any period of time however or it can run the car battery flat, you only forget once (or maybe twice 
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If you can identify the fridge only wiring on the van then do what Drover said, you need at least an 8 B&S supply run seperately from the battery (via a circuit breaker) to and Anderson plug, then put an Anderson plug on the van just for the fridge. Remember to disconnect the pug when stopped for any period of time however or it can run the car battery flat, you only forget once (or maybe twice
Better to fit a VSR (voltage sensitive relay) in series with line to van fridge @Wombat6 . About $60.00 or so and handles up to 100 amps. And it NEVER forgets!!
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A VSR is well worth it - it has saved me many times. You stop to have a look around a town but then you go into something which may take about 3 hours and come out and have a flat battery - if you don't have a VSR near the battery on the Fridge cable. I learnt this after having two flat batteries and not being able to open the doors with the remote!
Yes @Wombat6 , that works too, but usually it is a manual job. A VSR is AUTOMATIC - only connects the load when tug voltage is over 13.2 volts and stays connected until voltage drops below 12.6 volts. So no load on tug battery on starting and connection only when sufficient voltage attained ie 13.2v. No need to do any switching or leave the driver's seat to do a thing!!!
I would certainly make sure the fridge is installed properly first or the money spent on 12v power will be in vain...........also when stopping it should be part of your routine that you walk around the rig, kick tyres, look at wheel nuts, check hitch and plugs, thats when you can pull the lead, this routine can mean you find the little problem before it gets to be big, when you return to vehicle its also good practice to walk around again, look at everything, that slow leak can be located, plug in fridge and make sure some funny bastrad hasn't lifted your hitch pin, pulled a cable out etc...........................if you do vehicle checks then you don't forget the fridge, thats why all these fancy gizmo's lead to poor driving habits because folk rely on gizmo's but they only do half the job....................................