Solar Regulator & Battery Management Systems?

kavs

Member
Dec 30, 2012
31
6
8
Kalgoorlie, WA
Just been doing some research into the different brands of solar regulator/battery Management systems.
I see from some other posts that there are a few people running the Ctek D250s Dual. Just wondering how would this co operate with the setec system.

Or would you be better off to remove the setec system completely and replace it with something like the red arc BMS1215?

Is anyone running the redarc BCDC1240 as i see that this has a higher output amperage than the Ctek d250s dual, 40 amps compared to 20 amps.

There is a considerable price difference between the redarcs to the ctek but is this a case of you get what you pay for or is it more like a comparison of a patrol to a cruiser, there excactly the same but one is extremely over priced :)tape:woops i might have affended a few people with that but oh well)

Any opions would be appreciated as to what you are currently running or what you have previously experienced!

Cheers Marc
 

Stone Stomper

Well-Known Member
Jul 2, 2011
388
336
63
Glenelg SA
www.stonestomper.com.au
I'm running BCDC1240 and it got it's first test run over Christmas as I had the Ctek D250s Dual on our big trip and even after a full days drive would not bring the batteries up to charge.

When we left the river at 9am after running 1 Engel overnight as a freezer off the van 1 Engel in the car as a fridge 12v fans overnight lights,tv and showers after 3 hours of driving the Redarc had gone into float mode. I have the Redarc in the car charging the 100amp in car then charging the vans 100amp via an Anderson plug and the fridge in the van also runs directly off the vans battery which draws 10amps.

So very happy with the Redarc and bought it off Ebay for $399.

Christian

image0044.jpg image0045.jpg
 

kavs

Member
Dec 30, 2012
31
6
8
Kalgoorlie, WA
Hey Stone Stomper

Thanks for the feedback. I was thinking the redarc BCDC1240 40amp charge would be the way to go over the Ctek.
Have you had any problems with the redarc and the setek working together or do you just isolate one when the other is not being used?

Marc
 

Stone Stomper

Well-Known Member
Jul 2, 2011
388
336
63
Glenelg SA
www.stonestomper.com.au
Hi Marc,

I don't use the solar regulator on the Redarc as I have a separate controller, the Redarc is only on when the car is running so the Setek has no mains going to it but still leave the main switch on. I don't see any issue with both running at the same time.

Christian
 

Gaz70

Banned
Sep 14, 2011
59
10
0
Sunshine Coast, Queensland
i went with the Redarc BMS - yes the expensive way, however if you intend on doing mostly free camps the you will need a comprehensive battery system, 240v, solar and DCDC, this system does all, and provides you with a screen allowing you to see exactly whats going in and out of your battery, how many days left of charge etc etc...
 

Gaz70

Banned
Sep 14, 2011
59
10
0
Sunshine Coast, Queensland
Setec is still there, Jamie from JTS on the Sunshine Coast did all the wiring setup....all the original fuses are still inuse..i will take a photo and post soon..have been away sorry for late reply..
 

Mike7

Member
Nov 10, 2011
144
18
18
Hi Stomper,

Im trying to decide to go redarc or ctek so would appreciate your input. Ive read and understood the ctek instructions but am still not sure whats going on with the redarc unit.

Is the redarc automatic in selecting solar or alternator? Also what is the cutout voltage to protect the cranking battery of the red arc?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers
Mike
 

Stone Stomper

Well-Known Member
Jul 2, 2011
388
336
63
Glenelg SA
www.stonestomper.com.au
Hi Mike,

I don't use the solar side as I already have a regulator but in the instructions there needs to be a relay installed and an ignition wire to switch the redarc from car to solar, details herehttp://www.redarc.com.au/images/uploads/images/BCDC1240_Instruction_Manual.pdf

The Redarc switches off and disconnects from the starting battery at 12.7v, I can highly recommend the Redarc BCDC40 after the troubles I had with the CTEK.

Christian
 

Gaz70

Banned
Sep 14, 2011
59
10
0
Sunshine Coast, Queensland
Hi Stomper,

Im trying to decide to go redarc or ctek so would appreciate your input. Ive read and understood the ctek instructions but am still not sure whats going on with the redarc unit.

Is the redarc automatic in selecting solar or alternator? Also what is the cutout voltage to protect the cranking battery of the red arc?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers
Mike

hi Mike, the Redarc BMS is automatic selecting Solar, Alternator or 240V..
 

Mike7

Member
Nov 10, 2011
144
18
18
Thanks for the reply Stomper and Gaz, the Redarc sounds like a good unit.

Stomper can I ask what issues you had with the D250

Cheers
Mike
 

Stone Stomper

Well-Known Member
Jul 2, 2011
388
336
63
Glenelg SA
www.stonestomper.com.au
Hi Mike,

It would not keep up the charge and would end up with half flat batteries, when we would leave a camp (unpowered) the unit would not get above 12.2v and would stay like that all day, it would hold 14.3v if we left from a powered site but would slowly loose volts, where as the Redarc starts at 13.8v leaving an unpowered site and within an hour its at 14.5v and within 3 hours has fully charged and gone into float mode.

I rang CTEK while we were on our 2 month Kimberley trip to try and find out what was wrong and they got me to do all the checks and said did I have good connections and did I have the right cable size and I all was fine, I even had 8B&S to the unit and the unit right next to the second battery, they had no answers so I had to get my Dad to post me my old Redarc 100amp solenoid to get us through.

The Redarc is wired in the exact same location as the CTEK was using all the same cables and connections and the Redarc works at it should so there was nothing wrong with the installation of the CTEK.

I think the CTEK only being 20amps doesn't have the guts in it, I also read in another forum someone melted one as they were drawing more than 20amps.

The CTEK ended up killing the 100amp second battery in the car in Kununurra so I was not happy with that as it was an expensive replacement there.

Christian
 

Mike7

Member
Nov 10, 2011
144
18
18
Hi Christian,

Thanks for the info, sounds like the D250 is having trouble with DC-DC charging. I need to look into this. I like the idea of the 40A the Redarc puts out but my battery specs say up to about 25A charge is healthiest.

Cheers
Mike
 

Hubble80

Well-Known Member
Nov 22, 2012
524
303
63
Moranbah, QLD
Christian, did you have your fridge running of your battery while you were trying to charge it? Reason I ask is that the CTEK unit will output a max of 20A and if you fridge is drawing ~10A from the battery then is limits the charge current to ~10A and since it was trying to charge 2 X 100Ahr batteries I think it would have charged them ... eventually, but you would have been driving a LOOOONG time!

Remember that if we use have a 150L fridge in our vans, they are rated at 15A on 12V, so would make the situation even worse. To avoid this, I would be running the CTEK/RedArc and the fridge in parallel from the power delivered by the alternator and DO NOT have the fridge running from the battery/s. In my old Prado I had the Aux battery running the fridge and as it was only 82Ahr (biggest I could fit in the engine bay) I knew I could only run the fridge for about 3-4 hours without the car running.

Now I have a new car (LC200). I need to rethink the setup, but am going to get a CTEK or RedArc unit to charge the battery as I currently can only charge it from the Setek (240V).

Glad you have found a solution now though!!!
 

Stone Stomper

Well-Known Member
Jul 2, 2011
388
336
63
Glenelg SA
www.stonestomper.com.au
Hi Hubble80,

Our set up was 80w solar on car roof, 180w on van roof and the van and second car battery connected via an Anderson, we had two engels in the car one as a freezer and one as a fridge and the 90lt three way in the van that pulls 10amps.

We found the Ctek did not charge at all and I tried disconnecting the van then the panel on the car roof so it was only a max of 5amps from the two engels and still would not charge.

After fitting the Redarc BCDC40 did a camping trip to the river will all the same stuff and leaving the river to come home in 3 hours of driving the Redarc went into float so either I had a bad Ctek or it just wasn't up to it but I would recommend spending the extra for the Redarc $400
 
Oct 21, 2012
45
9
8
Hey stone stomper just wondering if your second battery and van battery were same type? As I have lead acid main and second battery but van is gel but can't find any info on if it will work with redarc bcdc40 thanks
 

Capt. Gadget

Obsessive & Compulsive Gadget Man
Dec 1, 2011
1,894
1,843
113
59
Busselton W.A.
bbmwa.com.au
In the Van I have a Ctek D250s Dual charging 2 120Ah AGM Batteries via a 200w Solar Panel and a Ctek MSX25 charging them when plugged into 240v The Setek that came with the Van is still all connected up but not plugged into the Mains. I Also have a D250s Dual in the tug charging the 100Ah AGM Battery in the tray which has an Anderson plug attached to it which I can connect my 120w folding panel to.