Interior Remove a Dometic RM2350 Fridge

[mikerezny]

Hi,
I want to remove a Dometic RM2350 90L three-way fridge to fit better insulation around the walls.
It is installed in a Jayco Penguin.

Before I do something stupid, I would like to ask for advice, tips, etc from anyone who has already done this.

I understand that there are screws on the front and one on the floor at the back.
Also, I have to disconnect the 12V input wires.

My main concern is how do I go about disconnecting the gas feed?
If I am not mistaken, the gas line goes up to the top of the fridge just behind the 12V/240V/Gas selector switch.
Is this correct?

If so, how does one disconnect it? Is there usually enough free play in the gas line to pull the fridge out far enough to get to the fitting?

kindest regards
Mike

 

[Dingo193]

I notice nobody has replied. There is a fitting .manual on net..with gas just disconnect under van at tap to give you enough room. Have you had a close look through back vents. In both my jaycos only room on top for insulation. So i wouldnt have gained any thing by pulling out fridge.I put insulation through rear vent ...then used insulation tape to seal further. I used colour bond to create a curve from behind fridge top cooling fins to top of vent. This stlpped the heating up of the bench tol. This would significantly help cooling. Adding two fans after that just maxe the fridge run so .much cooler.

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi,
I want to remove a Dometic RM2350 90L three-way fridge to fit better insulation around the walls.
It is installed in a Jayco Penguin.

Before I do something stupid, I would like to ask for advice, tips, etc from anyone who has already done this.

I understand that there are screws on the front and one on the floor at the back.
Also, I have to disconnect the 12V input wires.

My main concern is how do I go about disconnecting the gas feed?
If I am not mistaken, the gas line goes up to the top of the fridge just behind the 12V/240V/Gas selector switch.
Is this correct?

If so, how does one disconnect it? Is there usually enough free play in the gas line to pull the fridge out far enough to get to the fitting?

kindest regards
Mike

Hello @mikerezny , you are really kept busy . Must be my turn to help. When I removed my friend's Dometic fridge (the one that had not been looked at for over 11 years), it was just a straight forward arrangement. First, I disconnected all the electrical connections which you would be familiar with anyway. The gas connections can be disconnected where the gas line comes in at the back. Near where the burner is is a small section which has a union on each end. These can be disconnected with the appropriate spanners BUT MAKE SURE YOU USE TWO SPANNERS TO HOLD PIPE SO CONNECTOR IS NOT DISTORTED!! There is enough room to remove this section if needed. You do not have to disconnect gas line at the top, that stays attached to fridge whilst pulling it out. You may have to move gas line a LITTLE to the side to get it to clear some fittings
If no more obvious gas or electrical connections visible, you will find probably two screws holding the rear of the fridge to floor. Remove these and proceed to front of fridge and remove door - screw/s at top. With door removed, a couple of holding screws at the side flange will be visible holding front of fridge to cupboard. When these are out, you should be able to carefully slide fridge forward and out of cavity. That will give you room to fit insulation and make sure you have baffles that direct air through the cooling fins. A good baffle at the top to direct the air towards the vent is the way to go. I used thin aluminium sheeting bent and cut to size so no rattles etc. With your electrical and mechanical knowledge, you will have no problems at all. Remember, it is not brute strength needed but more brain power if something is stuck!!! Make sure you test the gas connections with soapy water after tightening up the gas unions connections. Good luck. Your turn to work me to death now!!!

 

[mikerezny]

The gas connections can be disconnected where the gas line comes in at the back. Near where the burner is is a small section which has a union on each end.

Hi @Boots in Action,
unless I am mistaken, it is not that simple on a Dometic RM2350.

The incoming gas line comes in through the floor and disappears up the side of the fridge and terminates at the top of the fridge just behind the 12V/240V/gas selector switch.
Then the gas line goes from there down to the burner.

I think the model you worked on has a gas solenoid near the burner. In that case, the incoming gas line terminates at the gas solenoid and the front panel selector switch activates the solenoid when gas is selected. But I could be wrong.

All the videos I could find on YouTube relating to removing or installing a Dometic fridge have the connection at the back near the burner as you describe.

Do you have a Dometic RM2350 in your Penguin? If so, when you get time can you have a look at where your incoming gas line goes after it comes in through the floor.

I was busy last week building our new compliant grey water tote using a 20l plastic drum. Managed to do almost all of it with simple garden hose fittings. The only thing I have left to do is install a 25mm inline tap in the drain hose and I believe I am completely compliant. But I am not going to bother doing it until I get inspected and knocked back at one of the self-contained sites.

Hopefully, I will be able to try it out this weekend when we go to Vaughan Springs.

Hope you enjoyed your last holiday and field excursion.

cheers
Mike

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi @Boots in Action,
unless I am mistaken, it is not that simple on a Dometic RM2350.

The incoming gas line comes in through the floor and disappears up the side of the fridge and terminates at the top of the fridge just behind the 12V/240V/gas selector switch.
Then the gas line goes from there down to the burner.

I think the model you worked on has a gas solenoid near the burner. In that case, the incoming gas line terminates at the gas solenoid and the front panel selector switch activates the solenoid when gas is selected. But I could be wrong.

All the videos I could find on YouTube relating to removing or installing a Dometic fridge have the connection at the back near the burner as you describe.

Do you have a Dometic RM2350 in your Penguin? If so, when you get time can you have a look at where your incoming gas line goes after it comes in through the floor.

I was busy last week building our new compliant grey water tote using a 20l plastic drum. Managed to do almost all of it with simple garden hose fittings. The only thing I have left to do is install a 25mm inline tap in the drain hose and I believe I am completely compliant. But I am not going to bother doing it until I get inspected and knocked back at one of the self-contained sites.

Hopefully, I will be able to try it out this weekend when we go to Vaughan Springs.

Hope you enjoyed your last holiday and field excursion.

cheers
Mike

Hi @mikerezny , had a good look at my gas connection for THETFORD fridge. It comes in from underneath , goes vertical up besides burner about half way up the back of fridge, before making a left hand right angle bend to go parallel with floor, then does another left hand right angle bend to go vertically down to small gas tap. From there, the gas line goes up to control, and back to burner. Probably not much use for your Dometic. Also, your fridge has extra controls if I remember correctly.

The Dometic fridge I removed for friend was in an Eco Tourer and it had a gas stove over the top of fridge. From what I remember, we removed the screws that held stove in position and there were the gas lines for both the stove and the fridge underneath. Also the gas lines came in through the side wall of fridge cavity which was on the side and part of adjacent seat. Gas lines then exited under seat and from van to gas bottles just outside. Don't know layout of your later model Penguin, but perhaps this may help you find the gas connections. Cheers

 

[mikerezny]

Hi @mikerezny , had a good look at my gas connection for THETFORD fridge. It comes in from underneath , goes vertical up besides burner about half way up the back of fridge, before making a left hand right angle bend to go parallel with floor, then does another left hand right angle bend to go vertically down to small gas tap. From there, the gas line goes up to control, and back to burner. Probably not much use for your Dometic. Also, your fridge has extra controls if I remember correctly.

The Dometic fridge I removed for friend was in an Eco Tourer and it had a gas stove over the top of fridge. From what I remember, we removed the screws that held stove in position and there were the gas lines for both the stove and the fridge underneath. Also the gas lines came in through the side wall of fridge cavity which was on the side and part of adjacent seat. Gas lines then exited under seat and from van to gas bottles just outside. Don't know layout of your later model Penguin, but perhaps this may help you find the gas connections. Cheers

Hi @Boots in Action,
thanks for the prompt reply.

The Thetford certainly has a gas connection that is easier to get at!

From what I can find out, one disconnects the 240V and 12V power leads, then removes a single screw on the floor at the back and 4 screws in the front. Then wriggle the fridge out far enough to get to the gas connection on the top of the fridge and disconnect it. Then the fridge can be taken completely out.

Thanks for all your help.

cheers
Mike

 

[Boots in Action]

I notice nobody has replied. There is a fitting .manual on net..with gas just disconnect under van at tap to give you enough room. Have you had a close look through back vents. In both my jaycos only room on top for insulation. So i wouldnt have gained any thing by pulling out fridge.I put insulation through rear vent ...then used insulation tape to seal further. I used colour bond to create a curve from behind fridge top cooling fins to top of vent. This stlpped the heating up of the bench tol. This would significantly help cooling. Adding two fans after that just maxe the fridge run so .much cooler.

Hi @Dingo193 , I can agree with you entirely on your suggestions. My Penguin did NOT have any deflection sheet at top of fridge, so I did what you did only used aluminium sheeting from rear of top fridge tubes to top of exit vent. Great minds think alike!!! Two 120mm fans - one top and one bottom - gives plenty of air movement up here in sunny Queensland. When I connected a thermostat as per @Drover set up, I was really going well. Incidentally, I am using a 45C thermo and it comes on and off as required - on for about 3 minutes max and off for much longer infrequent periods.

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi @Boots in Action,
thanks for the prompt reply.

The Thetford certainly has a gas connection that is easier to get at!

From what I can find out, one disconnects the 240V and 12V power leads, then removes a single screw on the floor at the back and 4 screws in the front. Then wriggle the fridge out far enough to get to the gas connection on the top of the fridge and disconnect it. Then the fridge can be taken completely out.

Thanks for all your help.

cheers
Mike

Hi @mikerezny , after getting fridge out, it will probably be necessary to reseal the front of the fridge against cavity front to prevent any burnt gases from permeating into the living area. It will also provide a complete seal around fridge flange which will help you pressurize the area and help with exhausting the hot air. You can get the adhesive backed foam/rubber seal from Bunnings for a few dollars a roll.

 

[Drover]

I would get something that will stick to the wall but leave a small gap so the fridge can be refitted and use a sausage of foam insulation to plug the gap at the back after refitting the fridge, slip a slab of roof bat on top of fridge then do the panel to direct the air out the vent.

 

[Boots in Action]

I would get something that will stick to the wall but leave a small gap so the fridge can be refitted and use a sausage of foam insulation to plug the gap at the back after refitting the fridge, slip a slab of roof bat on top of fridge then do the panel to direct the air out the vent.

Spot on as usual @Drover !! I used wall type insulation paper with the reflective side towards fridge to keep heat in cavity and not heat inside of van. I was able to do the whole area at the back without removing fridge too. Easy to apply adhesive and slide it into position. My penguin actually had a slab of insulation on top of fridge so did not have to do that when making deflector for hot air to be directed towards outlet vent. Bench above fridge now never gets even warm, so good advice for others. Sausage of foam is a good description as that is what appears to have been done with expanding foam when my fridge was originally installed. Might make removal a bit more difficult, but it makes a snug fit at sides of cavity for fridge. How is the thermal underwear going down south. You are missing out on some fantastic weather up here although very very dry. Hope your place at Cooloola Coast is not fire prone. Some bush fires around.

 

[Drover]

In my 14 it had no insulation on top, in fact nothing was sealed up and no deflector or baffle, bench got hot as hell, so grabbed some roof batt stuffed it on top, made a deflector and just shot some styro in all the gaps and cable runs, fridge started working properly and no dust in cupboards and that was the start i think of dismantling and reassembling my van.

 

[Dingo193]

Drover I must be your brother....feel like Im doing the same stuff, mind you thats a requirement in finishing a Jayco properly. I used the foam everywhere to seal the big and small holes ..then got worried about its flammability...However didn't use the fridge etc for a couple of weeks after doing it. Van is virtually finished all switches etc all now work as intended. New awning and front boot light look good in blue...followed another member on that one.
I think my brother will now turn up with a 16.49 with ensuite when he sells his Dove after looking at the ease of set up.

 

[Boots in Action]

Drover I must be your brother....feel like Im doing the same stuff, mind you thats a requirement in finishing a Jayco properly. I used the foam everywhere to seal the big and small holes ..then got worried about its flammability...However didn't use the fridge etc for a couple of weeks after doing it. Van is virtually finished all switches etc all now work as intended. New awning and front boot light look good in blue...followed another member on that one.
I think my brother will now turn up with a 16.49 with ensuite when he sells his Dove after looking at the ease of set up.

Hi @Dingo193 , there is ONE thing that ALWAYS holds true - " Do it yourself, when only the BEST will do!!!" Something to look back on with pride and say to yourself " I did that and made it better than original!" Great feeling isn't it??

 

[Dingo193]

So true. I love a project that we then get to enjoy.

 

[Dingo193]

Sure is. Love a project particularly when you get to use it.. on a different not would you know what length the stabilus 7643ws 240n are.. Cant find anything on their website.. can only seem to find mention of 830mm for jayco pop tops .. was hoping you would know to save me having to pull one off.
Thnx

 

[Boots in Action]

Sure is. Love a project particularly when you get to use it.. on a different not would you know what length the stabilus 7643ws 240n are.. Cant find anything on their website.. can only seem to find mention of 830mm for jayco pop tops .. was hoping you would know to save me having to pull one off.
Thnx

Sorry @Dingo193 , can't help you on that one, but I am sure someone on this forum will be able to help. Perhaps a photo would be helpful for someone to recognize what you are talking about.

 

[Dingo193]

 

[mikerezny]

Hi @Dingo193,
I don't have an expanda, so I can't help in that regard, but I did a Google:
http://www.stabilus-struts.com.au/?q=node/7431

This is part of the range:
http://www.stabilus-struts.com.au/?q=node/10177/ title=

The first page indicates that they are 825mm long. All the diagrams down the right-hand side list the range of closing force.

The website is the Australian agent.
There address is:
65 Redwood Dr, Dingley Village VIC 3172
(03) 9552 1400

I hope this is of some help.

cheers
Mike

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi @Dingo193,
I don't have an expanda, so I can't help in that regard, but I did a Google:
http://www.stabilus-struts.com.au/?q=node/7431

This is part of the range:
http://www.stabilus-struts.com.au/?q=node/10177/ title=

The first page indicates that they are 825mm long. All the diagrams down the right-hand side list the range of closing force.

The website is the Australian agent.
There address is:
65 Redwood Dr, Dingley Village VIC 3172
(03) 9552 1400

I hope this is of some help.

cheers
Mike

Hi @mikerezny , on the boil again with information. Great stuff!!

 

[Dingo193]

Hi @mikerezny thanks dont know why i could t get it when i googled..great help. Thanks so much..