Hawk Jayco Hawk Electrical Setup

AntK

New Member
Feb 21, 2017
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Brisbane
Hi Everybody,

Have recently bought a second hand Jayco Hawk 2010 Outback, so I am a new to understanding the power setup in the van and have a couple of questions below.

1. We have a Setec ST20-II - It has two switches near the SETEC. One is marked "Battery switch" (which I believe is to isolate battery from all circuits..and needs to be switched on when charging from 240V). I am not sure what the second black switch is used for ? I have included the photo.

2. I have also read that I should use something like the Ampfibian to ensure that household 10Amp power is converted to 15amp when charging the van before going on a trip. Is this correct ?

3. Along with the 7pin vehicle connector at the front of the trailer, there is also an Anderson plug. Can I use this to connect directly into Solar panels and if not how do I easily confirm if the Anderson plug cabling is connected to the SETEC, which as I understand it would be acting as the regulator as well ?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
AntK
 

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Dobbie

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Jun 18, 2014
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Hi and :welcome:

1. I have no idea what that switch is unless it's for a pump or hot water but would imagine they'd be clearly marked. Could it be an inverter?

2. It is possible to use your household 10amp power to charge via the Setec and to cool down the fridge, but it's not recommended. If you're drawing more power than just charging or for fridge, the amphibian or similar is the go.
We used the 10amp for years, before we knew better, and now use a Jaycar unit, not amphibian, to get van power at home. You do need a 15amp lead for caravan park power of course. The amphibian is waterproof I think, the Jaycar isn't so it depends on your situation.

3. I'd guess the Anderson wiring needs to be checked carefully before deciding how it's used. Usually, it is to get vehicle power for the fridge and / or to give the van battery a charge when connected to the car. So it is wired via the Setec.
If wanting to use it for solar charging, the Anderson needs to bypass the Setec and be wired directly to the battery and fused.
Then, for solar charging, add a separate regulator.

I'd guess yours is wired for the car charging so can't be used for solar charging. Just add an extra Anderson to the draw bar, or side of the van, and wire it directly to the battery.
 

mikerezny

Well-Known Member
Sep 11, 2016
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Mount Waverley, VIC
Hi Everybody,

Have recently bought a second hand Jayco Hawk 2010 Outback, so I am a new to understanding the power setup in the van and have a couple of questions below.

1. We have a Setec ST20-II - It has two switches near the SETEC. One is marked "Battery switch" (which I believe is to isolate battery from all circuits..and needs to be switched on when charging from 240V). I am not sure what the second black switch is used for ? I have included the photo.

2. I have also read that I should use something like the Ampfibian to ensure that household 10Amp power is converted to 15amp when charging the van before going on a trip. Is this correct ?

3. Along with the 7pin vehicle connector at the front of the trailer, there is also an Anderson plug. Can I use this to connect directly into Solar panels and if not how do I easily confirm if the Anderson plug cabling is connected to the SETEC, which as I understand it would be acting as the regulator as well ?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
AntK

Hi @AntK,
wellcome to the forum. You have found the right place to get a lot of useful information on caravanning and many other topics as well!. We were new to this when we bought our first van last November and the people in the forum have been fantastic and patient in answering the heaps of newbie questions I had (and still have).

I have a 2016 Jayco Penguin, but the wiring will not be all that different.

If you do not already have a manual for the Setec power supply and battery charger, you can download it from their web site:
http://www.setec.com.au/jayco-customers/

Here is my understanding. Others will hopefully correct me if I have got any of it wrong.
The Battery switch is connected to the Setec unit and what it does is explained in the manual. As you said it isolates the battery from the load i.e. lights, stove ignition, etc.

Also, when in the off position, it will isolate the Setec from the battery and will prevent the battery from being charged from the charger within the Setec unit when connected to 240v, when in the off position the Setec unit will only trickle charge the battery.

Similarly, if you have 12V on your 7 pin plug, the switch, when in the on position will charge the battery from your car alternator, when in the off position it will only be trickle charged.

I can't help you with the purpose of the second switch. There isn't a second switch in our Penguin. It seems like a modification. You may have to follow the wires to see how it is connected. Has your Hawk been fitted with solar panels?

The following is assuming you have a Dometic 3-way fridge that is the fridge normally supplied.

The Anderson plug is most likely connected directly to your fridge to power the fridge from 12V whilst you are driving. If so:
Later Jaycos use a 12 pin plug and the fridge is connected to two of the extra heavy duty 35A pins on this plug. If this is the case, there is heaps of information on this forum relating to the difficulties of connecting the fridge to the car. It is not usual to have the fridge connected to the battery in the van.

Quick summary: If you have the standard Dometic RM2350 fridge, on 12V, the heater draws about 15A, enough to flatten your car battery in a couple of hours or so. In order for the fridge to work efficiently on 12V, very heavy duty cable is usually run from the back of the tug directly to the battery, via an isolation relay that will only switch on when the ignition is on (i.e. the motor is running and the alternator is working). Having problems due to poor installation is a very common problem. I would suggest you need to have less than a 1V drop from the battery to the fridge for the fridge to cool properly. In my case, I have a 0.7V drop and I usually have no problems keeping the fridge cool unless the outside temperature is in the high 30s or more.

Regarding plugging your van into domestic 10A circuits. Yes, it is recommended that you buy an Ampfibion or an alternative. The van has a 15A socket, and inside, has a 15A circuit breaker. An Ampfibion won't convert 10A to 15A, but will ensure that your van can only draw a maximum of 10A and thus protect your house wiring from overload. i.e, you will only be able to draw a maximum of 10A when connected via an Ampfibion to a normal domestic 10A socket.

best wishes
Mike
 
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bigcol

Well-Known Member
Nov 22, 2012
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welcome to the forum @AntK

as @mikerezny said, we do aim to please and help as much as possible, so if we sound like we are repeating what others have said, or completely off track, please forgive us

if you look under the seat, that the Setec is in, and follow the wires from that black switch, you could have any of the following (and more)
attached to an Inverter
attached to the Fridge
attached to a water pump
attached to lights in front boot

it will be a matter of following the wires to to the ends, to find out what is there,

as it is Black, I am guessing that its for the 12V side of the Setec, maybe power from the car.....? attached to that Anderson?

we sound silly, but we really do need pictures (some of us are old....) to help determine what is what

so if you could get a couple of the wiring on and around the Setec, the answer maybe there......
 

Drover

Well-Known Member
Nov 7, 2013
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QLD
Yep to all above.........
Black switch, well the easy way is to turn everything on and find out what stops when it's turned off, or use a multi meter to do a search......could be the master for the interior lights though.

The myths surrounding the Ampibian and it's copies are many............they do NOT adapt anything all they do is put an easily accessable 10amp circuit breaker in the line between van and house so you don't pop the house fuse.................most houses have 10 amp plugs which are perfectly capable of plugging your van into for the purpose of running your fridge, charging the battery even boiling the kettle BUT too many people don't have any idea about electricity and would do all that and run their HWS and even AC all together, the circuit can't handle that and will pop the breaker in fact some 15 amp circuits will do it as well.