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Boots in Action

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Mar 13, 2017
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I just purchased 20l of atf at 30% off. It's been a while since I did a change on an auto - especially one with no dip stick - so could be fun
Draining off the full oil pan ,fitting new pan gasket and filter will be the easy and fast part. Replacing the trans fluid through the dip stick will be the tedious and slow part. Good luck and stay calm @jazzeddie1234 !!
 
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mikerezny

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Draining off the full oil pan ,fitting new pan gasket and filter will be the easy and fast part. Replacing the trans fluid through the dip stick will be the tedious and slow part. Good luck and stay calm @jazzeddie1234 !!
Hi,
especially when there is no dipstick! :behindsofa: :bolt:

My Falcon has a ZF auto and it is actually a pain in the butt to change the oil and to put the correct amount in. This video is an example.


take care
Mike
 
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Drover

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My Grand has a ZF box 8HP70, no dip stick or tube, its a pain to service but to refill its the same as a diff, I just pump it in (3lt) thru the bung on the side, dribbles out, start engine, move thru gears (scary part) then with engine idling pump another litre in till it dribbles out, replace bung and all done. to change the filter its the whole pan that gets changed, since I change mine 3 times to the recommended once in 100K it just gets a half dump of oil at a time..... Pan and filter $150, 4 lts Penrite BMV $80 so buy on special.................. best auto I have ever used, worst I have ever had to do a service on.
 

mikerezny

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My Grand has a ZF box 8HP70, no dip stick or tube, its a pain to service but to refill its the same as a diff, I just pump it in (3lt) thru the bung on the side, dribbles out, start engine, move thru gears (scary part) then with engine idling pump another litre in till it dribbles out, replace bung and all done. to change the filter its the whole pan that gets changed, since I change mine 3 times to the recommended once in 100K it just gets a half dump of oil at a time..... Pan and filter $150, 4 lts Penrite BMV $80 so buy on special.................. best auto I have ever used, worst I have ever had to do a service on.
Hi,
as the video I posted above shows, some pans do not even have a drain plug which can make it quite messy to dump out the old oil.

take care
Mike
 

Drover

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Hi,
as the video I posted above shows, some pans do not even have a drain plug which can make it quite messy to dump out the old oil.

take care
Mike

Not wrong Mike, getting to be common it seems, my MB W5A580 5 speed in old WG Jeep didn't have one, was always going to put a bung in the pan but never did, with a walk under ramp set up it wasn't a biggie but if no hoist it would be a big pain to drain, even now with a drain plug and the WK2 Jeep lifted 6 inches off the ground I still make a mess, the $500 saved by DiY the only reason I still do it myself.

The W5A580 had a dip tube but no stick, had to make one up which wasn't all that difficult, again it had a 100K service regime which i didn't adhere to, the Colorado came with a 150K initial service but they did say 70K if towing, I stuck to my roughy 45K service intervals...... still made a mess... mind if I had a car it would be in the shop for the job to be done or Santa would certainly have to get me a hoist.
 

jazzeddie1234

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The dmax has 3 bungs - a filler, a drain and a level check. I've modified a bunnings cheap 5l pressure sprayer to reach the filler. The videos I've watched for a simple change remove the drain, measure the amount dropped (about 3l), refill that amount, go for a drive, repeat the process another 2 times (so change 9l in total), remove the level check bung and replace when the oil is starting to drip (or top up until it does).

The clever guys intercept the oil cooler flow and replace that way
 

Boots in Action

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The dmax has 3 bungs - a filler, a drain and a level check. I've modified a bunnings cheap 5l pressure sprayer to reach the filler. The videos I've watched for a simple change remove the drain, measure the amount dropped (about 3l), refill that amount, go for a drive, repeat the process another 2 times (so change 9l in total), remove the level check bung and replace when the oil is starting to drip (or top up until it does).

The clever guys intercept the oil cooler flow and replace that way
Sounds like a change by dilution, so making it hard to get the heavy "muck" off the bottom of oil pan. Always liked the idea of at least seeing what was at the bottom, even though it meant taking off the trannie pan (no drain) and spilling the minimum when releasing the attaching bolts. Still messy when I did it on my Nissan Skyline - don't do it any more on Colorado. Need to have a walk under ramp to have a go now. Getting older and lazier.
 

Drover

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Seen some of these U tube/Faceache jobs and they miss the point entirely, often changing at the scheduled time, usually far too late and if you don't drop the pan and clean it, then why bother................. of course if you can tap into the cooler feed you drop the pan change the filter then just bleed from the cooler and top up as you go with either engine running or pumping it by hand, much like a brake fluid job, of course the tricky part is not all boxes are okay with this type of oil change, each box has its own system... Get it wrong and its not a nice...... Some Convertors are actually sealed units while others can be drained from a bung or by running so one must know the box your playing with............. sometimes its just easier to give it to a tranny shop.....
 
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jazzeddie1234

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it meant taking off the trannie pan
The $500+ service the dealer accidentally* did on mine involved dropping the pan. Although I don't know how or if they do a full flush on the oil in the TC and cooler lines.

My plan is to inspect the first oil drop and decide from there.

* I asked for the full service details and cost to be emailed before I booked. Had a line 'replace all fluids' so I asked 'did that really mean all? Yes was the answer... Followed by oh @#% when I dropped off the ute :o . Good on them for doing it though
 
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Drover

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The $500+ service the dealer accidentally* did on mine involved dropping the pan. Although I don't know how or if they do a full flush on the oil in the TC and cooler lines.

My plan is to inspect the first oil drop and decide from there.

* I asked for the full service details and cost to be emailed before I booked. Had a line 'replace all fluids' so I asked 'did that really mean all? Yes was the answer... Followed by oh @#% when I dropped off the ute :o . Good on them for doing it though

Some boxes its just drop the oil, flushing is a big No, No, leaving to fully drain the only option, mine you can hear it gurgling for a good 10 mins, oil needs to be warm though.
These long service intervals are more to do with the annual servicing cost competition and less to do with gerabox life, the oils are far better but the filtering never seems to have increased so like the lower grade engine oils its all about the stars on the windscreen sticker and the lowest $$$ per year for the PR value.

Be interesting to see what sort of servicing EV's get done for while the mode of fuel is clean, well for the vehicle that is, the motors will be dirty things if going by industrial electric motors is anything to go by......
 
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Boots in Action

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Some boxes its just drop the oil, flushing is a big No, No, leaving to fully drain the only option, mine you can hear it gurgling for a good 10 mins, oil needs to be warm though.
These long service intervals are more to do with the annual servicing cost competition and less to do with gerabox life, the oils are far better but the filtering never seems to have increased so like the lower grade engine oils its all about the stars on the windscreen sticker and the lowest $$$ per year for the PR value.

Be interesting to see what sort of servicing EV's get done for while the mode of fuel is clean, well for the vehicle that is, the motors will be dirty things if going by industrial electric motors is anything to go by......
@Drover , you are probably correct about being able to advertise low annual servicing costs. That would also be relevant to the life or reliability of engines and transmissions. You can always use the cheaper oils and lubricants and get away with that if operating in optimum "light" conditions, but in real life situations, there will always be times when one is operating outside those limits, and there is a need for a higher reserve of wear protection.
The days of straight forward and easy oil and transmission changes by the home DIY brigade seem limited. There are a lot more complicated instructions and methods for even changing engine oils for some vehicles. I remember seeing just recently that engine oil should not be left to drain for more than 30 minutes as this causes an air lock on the pickup tube which meant that the oil pump did not work on start up. I think it was a Ford Ranger??????? Something to do with the shape of the pick up tube leading to the oil pump. So one has to be careful when working on our modern sophisticated machinery. Gone are the days of draining the oil from the sump after a long hot run and letting it drain all night, before fitting new filter and replacing oil next morning!!!

I agree with you on how "unclean" electric motors are after long periods of use. It is amazing how much black static dust is attracted to electric motors during normal operation. Even smaller ones used in protected situations. How are they to be serviced and cleaned (if necessary) after years running in all conditions of heat, dust, moisture combined?? And all the sensors providing precise information to the computers? But that is "progress"!!!!!!
 
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Drover

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@Drover , you are probably correct about being able to advertise low annual servicing costs. That would also be relevant to the life or reliability of engines and transmissions. You can always use the cheaper oils and lubricants and get away with that if operating in optimum "light" conditions, but in real life situations, there will always be times when one is operating outside those limits, and there is a need for a higher reserve of wear protection.
The days of straight forward and easy oil and transmission changes by the home DIY brigade seem limited. There are a lot more complicated instructions and methods for even changing engine oils for some vehicles. I remember seeing just recently that engine oil should not be left to drain for more than 30 minutes as this causes an air lock on the pickup tube which meant that the oil pump did not work on start up. I think it was a Ford Ranger??????? Something to do with the shape of the pick up tube leading to the oil pump. So one has to be careful when working on our modern sophisticated machinery. Gone are the days of draining the oil from the sump after a long hot run and letting it drain all night, before fitting new filter and replacing oil next morning!!!

I agree with you on how "unclean" electric motors are after long periods of use. It is amazing how much black static dust is attracted to electric motors during normal operation. Even smaller ones used in protected situations. How are they to be serviced and cleaned (if necessary) after years running in all conditions of heat, dust, moisture combined?? And all the sensors providing precise information to the computers? But that is "progress"!!!!!!


I'm pretty sure I'm on the money in regards to manufacturers using the lightest grade oil possible and extending service intervals, the lighter grade giving better lt per km figures and extending the service times means less dollars spent per year to service, its a fine balance between the bean counters and engineers making sure the equipment doesn't fall apart during warranty, they don't always get it right as there are quite a few vehicles that later in the model run the oil was upped a grade as problems arose and servicing was shortened 10 or 20K km, my model Jeep started as 5W30 then after a few problems it went to 5W40, something I did when I got it and before I saw the TSB on the change, I just thought for the work and temps mine operates around 40 would be better choice and I have since upped to 10W40 but most importantly keeping to the API of CJ4 to keep the soot oven happy...... choosing a brand that is readily available is also best practice, many only see the numbers but the API/ACEA is the important factor, its an either either thing as API is Yank and ACEA is European so depending on vehicle brand a bit of cross referencing is needed and even then you can be led astray by not reading the fine print............... If you use the correct spec oil with a grade that matches your climate and change regularly all should be good, eg: a city diesel and a petrol for that matter, should be changed earlier than one that is doing country running ........................................
Tranny oil is getting to the stage of needing a degree to wade thru the detail....


The Ranger draining problem has been around for quite a few years and if memory serves me it was the 3.2lt 5 cyl engine in the Ranger and BT50 that had the draining problem, the stupid oil pump can't self prime, so much for brilliant designers, The remedy was change the filter, drop oil soon as it stops to flow (no longer than 10mins) replace bung and the pump shouldn't drain out, of course removing the filler cap allows it to flow out faster........... I have no idea if its still an issue but Ford never did a recall on it and many got caught short by poor engineering.
I can really see no sense in leaving an engine drain overnight, I drop it, replace filter, bung back in and refill, the small amount that left in the galleries is not a problem, if you were that worried you would do an engine flush, dropping when its nice and warm means any goobers are still in suspension one hopes.
 
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Boots in Action

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I can really see no sense in leaving an engine drain overnight,
Only because of time and light restraints after getting started late in the day. Could not be bothered to complete job after driving most of day. That way, at least the oil is very hot and drains easily, taking all? the loose debris with it . Easier that way as engine and oil HOT.
If done first thing in the morning, there is a need to warm up engine and run it for a while to get all parts moving. Then drain oil and change filter, and have a beer and check things. An hour or so later, complete job and have another beer. All done!!!
 

Drover

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Only because of time and light restraints after getting started late in the day. Could not be bothered to complete job after driving most of day. That way, at least the oil is very hot and drains easily, taking all? the loose debris with it . Easier that way as engine and oil HOT.
If done first thing in the morning, there is a need to warm up engine and run it for a while to get all parts moving. Then drain oil and change filter, and have a beer and check things. An hour or so later, complete job and have another beer. All done!!!
Too dangerous for me more than likely to forget to put bung back in.......besides need to get Jeep out of shed so boat and ute go back in for the night.
 

Bluey

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Question for the brains trust has any one up graded there springs seems to hard to get info about load rates out of jayco for shocks and springs and travel height of springs all I need to do is put higher rated springs which are 97 bucks each from jayco but I need all the info to get my gvm upgraded to 3.2 it's 2.7 now there hopeless on dishing out info ...... there peddlers springs and shocks but jayco hold the rights to them so that puts pedders out of the game as they won't give any info