Suspension 2012 Outback suspension

[Berserker26]

Hey All - we're looking at some of the older 18 ft single end Expanda's in the outback configuration. They look to be a rocker leaf spring config. Does anybody have any thoughts they'd share on the capability of this type of suspension? We're dirt/gravel road to get to a beach type of caravanners, not go out into the middle of nowhere on some bush track type.

Everything these days seems to be independant coils, so its got me wondering how the older system is.

Many thanks

 

[Drover]

I still prefer the old beam axle with springs myself, especially if running some dirt tracks as repair and replacements are easier, they are long lasting if maintained properly, a proper alignment on any set up is most important and with the leaf spring job if they haven't got greasable pins then fit some, grease regularly and they will last eons ........

The independant coil suspension performs well, heavier by a fair bit and can be difficult to align if they weren't set up right at the build which has been a problem as some were fitted out of square, some have minimal toe in/out and no camber adjustment ... Springs, shocks can be replaced but the rest is a workshop job really .....................

Both types of suspension I believe perform well, the state of the tyres will tell you if there's any problems with the set up, any scrubbinig on inside or outside edges means alignment, both edges or middle poor inflation, of course that is unless new rubber has been fitted .....................

For running a track to beach I think I would lean towards the coil spring set up as no axle across the middle to hang up and drag in the sand...

 

[Berserker26]

Thanks for the advice Drover, much appreciated. The tires on the van we're looking at are worn right down, all 4 need replacing so sounds like if we go for it a full service might be required

 

[Drover]

If you go for a wheel alignment don't use a caravan shop best bet is a truck align workshop, they have the gear and expertise ...............

Old well worn tyres tell a very good story especially the spare, things like worn in centre mostly over inflation, inside worn on one while the opposite tyre its the outside points to alignment, outside on both its a camber problem, inside on all of them can be a sign on overloading or on some suspension sagging springs, of course thats just a general rule of thumb .................. of course if they did regular rotatations but didn't fix the wear problem things are disguised a bit, dual axle jobs if not rotated will show the rear axle rubber taking a hammering but thats normal as that axle will get dragged on tight turns ....

Poor inflation is what I see on most rigs, folk just go by whats on the plate and don't allow for changes in tyre brand or conditions, I have always started with the pressure noted then check when hot if the tyre is 4-6 psi higher than when cold its on the money, higher then not enough, under 4 then its too much, when you change the tyres you should do it all again as the different tyre construction will mean a different psi is needed most times......... and don't go the knobby tyres, they achieve nothing on a lazy axle, wear quicker and look cool but not much else, best for a AT or HT bit of rubber they give traction in the wet .. I always use a mild AT tyre in LT, less flexing in side wall with wet road grip is my theory.