20' Series water pressure

Racer

Member
Jun 17, 2014
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NSW
Had the same problem. Under the van not far after the mains pressure inlet is a brass cylinder. It is a pressure reducer, I removed mine and the pressure is as it should be.
 
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ROnEM

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Mar 13, 2012
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Macedon Ranges, Vic
This is a common problem - many forum members, including myself, have had water pressure issues and raised this with Jayco dealers while the van is under warranty. Typically replacing the pressure regulator solves the problem.

it is important to keep the pressure regulator in the plumbing, because if you are at a park and the water pressure is too high, you could burst an internal water pipe and do significant water damage to you van - would spoil a good holiday!

Cheers,

Rohan
 

Macropod

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Sep 5, 2013
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Be careful removing the pressure reducer as one of its purposes is to protect your hot water system (if you have one installed). We had the same problem with our 20.63.1 and after looking at all the options ended up replacing the pressure reducer with another reputable brand (sourced from Reece plumbing) and I got my pressure back.
 

Crusty181

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Feb 7, 2010
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Be careful removing the pressure reducer as one of its purposes is to protect your hot water system (if you have one installed). We had the same problem with our 20.63.1 and after looking at all the options ended up replacing the pressure reducer with another reputable brand (sourced from Reece plumbing) and I got my pressure back.
What brand and specs did the job for you?
 

Racer

Member
Jun 17, 2014
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NSW
What KPA is the hot water system regulated to?

The pressure reducer is rated to 350kpa. Majority of street hydrants are around 400kpa, varies either side.
 

Turtle

Banned
Jan 23, 2011
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Bathurst, NSW
The pressure regulator is also a one way valve.
You might find removing it not only puts your plumbing at risk but if you run on the 12volt pump the water will run out of your mains inlet.
 
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Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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@Turtle thats what I was going to point out, mine while giving good pressure the non return failed and since a replacement was $100 I left it in and just added a Guest non return in line. My rig has a brass/plastic unit on the line from the mains connector while the new units are all brass but also has a pressure/non return valve on the line which goes to the HWS, it is the same as your household one incorporating a tap, at a later time I will replace the other with a similar unit. But removing the main valve will allow water to exit your fill point when you us the pump, well thats what i found anyway.
 
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Bellbirdweb

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Jan 24, 2014
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What KPA is the hot water system regulated to?

The pressure reducer is rated to 350kpa. Majority of street hydrants are around 400kpa, varies either side.

I have seen hydrant pressures commonly at 700kPa and as high as 1000kPa.

Those sorts of pressures could blow pipes and fittings all over the place.
 

Racer

Member
Jun 17, 2014
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53
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NSW
I have seen hydrant pressures commonly at 700kPa and as high as 1000kPa.

Those sorts of pressures could blow pipes and fittings all over the place.

Including the pipes themselves. Houses would be busting fittings all over the joint at 1000kpa. Would you think they are putting out those pressures at the tap? Would have to blow hose connections with your van supply. My van has 3 connectors before it reaches the regulator.

There is a non return fitting on the inlet of mains.
 
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Bellbirdweb

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Jan 24, 2014
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I can blow the hose fitting off the van with mains pressure at home, but haven't come across any such problem so far in a van park.

Just a bit of a warning that's all.
 
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Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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I don't doubt it but I've never found a park that has pressure that could blow a fart let alone a tap fitting.............lol,lol.

But just the same a pressure fitting is a must as these are only plastic stuff and they get weaker as they get older, my rural pipe at home is getting on and blows every so often and it only has 50 psi at most and far better fittings than the vans.
 
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anton Smith

Active Member
Jul 8, 2013
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www.bluewaterbuilding.com.au
My van has that issue but also coughs and splutters when running just off the vans tanks. Is this a regulator issue or a air block issue. I have resorted to opening the bungs on my tanks when filling and then putting them back once they flow constantly.
 

Crusty181

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Feb 7, 2010
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My van has that issue but also coughs and splutters when running just off the vans tanks. Is this a regulator issue or a air block issue. I have resorted to opening the bungs on my tanks when filling and then putting them back once they flow constantly.
I an air issue ,unless the pump is cactis. Airlock or sucking air into the line. For some stupid reason the pump drawers off both tanks equally, so you need both tanks to have the same amount of water or it will suck air from the empty tank even if the other tank is full. If you have a full tank and one with 10ltrs, youll only get 20ltrs before it starts sucking air.

Try blocking off each of the tanks individually as close to the pump as possible, to isolate which line is the issue. Then work back to the tank checking the lines and connectors
 
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Drover

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I wonder if it could be a breather hose off the tank causing the issue, a kink or something in the hose not allowing air into the tank as you draw the water out.
Does it overflow from the breather vent when you fill it up ???? or slow to fill as mine gurgles like mad from the breather when I fill.

@Crusty181 I still find that hard to fathom yours not having a tap for the tanks, they must have hidden it from you.
 

millhouse

New Member
Oct 20, 2014
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We picked up or van last week and i noticed that the hot water had greater pressure than the cold. On inspection i have found the the pressure limiting valve is installed after the tee that feeds the front tap and the hot water heater. I haven't found any information on the maximum inlet pressure for the hot water service but the pipe is rated to 1000kpa @ 20 degrees.

Along with the 3 leaks that i have repaired so far it looks like we had the apprentice on the job!
 

Crusty181

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Feb 7, 2010
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I wonder if it could be a breather hose off the tank causing the issue, a kink or something in the hose not allowing air into the tank as you draw the water out.
Does it overflow from the breather vent when you fill it up ???? or slow to fill as mine gurgles like mad from the breather when I fill.

@Crusty181 I still find that hard to fathom yours not having a tap for the tanks, they must have hidden it from you.
They certainly did hide it ..... somewhere in the Jayco factory with a double layer of "Does anyone know what this thing is or where its supposed to go"