What brand and specs did the job for you?Be careful removing the pressure reducer as one of its purposes is to protect your hot water system (if you have one installed). We had the same problem with our 20.63.1 and after looking at all the options ended up replacing the pressure reducer with another reputable brand (sourced from Reece plumbing) and I got my pressure back.
What KPA is the hot water system regulated to?
The pressure reducer is rated to 350kpa. Majority of street hydrants are around 400kpa, varies either side.
I have seen hydrant pressures commonly at 700kPa and as high as 1000kPa.
Those sorts of pressures could blow pipes and fittings all over the place.
I an air issue ,unless the pump is cactis. Airlock or sucking air into the line. For some stupid reason the pump drawers off both tanks equally, so you need both tanks to have the same amount of water or it will suck air from the empty tank even if the other tank is full. If you have a full tank and one with 10ltrs, youll only get 20ltrs before it starts sucking air.My van has that issue but also coughs and splutters when running just off the vans tanks. Is this a regulator issue or a air block issue. I have resorted to opening the bungs on my tanks when filling and then putting them back once they flow constantly.
Along with the 3 leaks that i have repaired so far it looks like we had the apprentice on the job!
They certainly did hide it ..... somewhere in the Jayco factory with a double layer of "Does anyone know what this thing is or where its supposed to go"I wonder if it could be a breather hose off the tank causing the issue, a kink or something in the hose not allowing air into the tank as you draw the water out.
Does it overflow from the breather vent when you fill it up ???? or slow to fill as mine gurgles like mad from the breather when I fill.
@Crusty181 I still find that hard to fathom yours not having a tap for the tanks, they must have hidden it from you.