No worries Burnsy.
They're all working well here at my place.
I figure they'll pay for themselves within 2 years.
They're all working well here at my place.
I figure they'll pay for themselves within 2 years.
LEDs
- Thread starter boots33
- Start date
I have some of the older 240V downlights at home so i have ordered some of these to try.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280771298935?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Hey Coastrunner, a 30% saving is excellent, i don't think it will take long for them to pay for themselves!
Cheers.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280771298935?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
Hey Coastrunner, a 30% saving is excellent, i don't think it will take long for them to pay for themselves!
Cheers.
Leesy.
My power consumption went down by 30%, but my bill went down by 20%.
My previous bill was $500 {same time last year}. My bill this time was $400.
In saying that, the actual rate per kilowatt has increased since then, so my bill would have been more than $500 this time.
BURNSY. I found that the original lights I put up with around 100 leds on them were very similar to the old 60 watt light globes. I think the ones you`ve looked at my be a little dim.
My power consumption went down by 30%, but my bill went down by 20%.
My previous bill was $500 {same time last year}. My bill this time was $400.
In saying that, the actual rate per kilowatt has increased since then, so my bill would have been more than $500 this time.
BURNSY. I found that the original lights I put up with around 100 leds on them were very similar to the old 60 watt light globes. I think the ones you`ve looked at my be a little dim.
The issue with the house replacement ones are the heatsinks and drivers.
Doing a straight swap of downlight types often results in flickering as the transformers aren't suitable for LED. The older style iron core or magnetic ones don't tend to have this problem, but the government is trying to phase them out, (like the old std light bulb, and now halogen lamps) and use more power themselves than the electronic ones do. Ideally you need to buy a new transformer too.
The 240v types have insufficient heat sinks and are tending to fail after only a few years, rather than the suggested 50000 hrs. Thus the replacement cost can even start outweighing the energy saving cost.
I've being testing quite a few of the cheaper one to recommend to clients, but overall unimpressed in the long term. In my own house, so far I still prefer compact fluros, and haven't changed to led......
(I'm an building energy efficiency / sustainability consultant
)
Doing a straight swap of downlight types often results in flickering as the transformers aren't suitable for LED. The older style iron core or magnetic ones don't tend to have this problem, but the government is trying to phase them out, (like the old std light bulb, and now halogen lamps) and use more power themselves than the electronic ones do. Ideally you need to buy a new transformer too.
The 240v types have insufficient heat sinks and are tending to fail after only a few years, rather than the suggested 50000 hrs. Thus the replacement cost can even start outweighing the energy saving cost.
I've being testing quite a few of the cheaper one to recommend to clients, but overall unimpressed in the long term. In my own house, so far I still prefer compact fluros, and haven't changed to led......
(I'm an building energy efficiency / sustainability consultant
)
Hiya Dingo.
Thanks for the feedback.
I opted not to use the 12 volt led down lights. I removed all transformers and used 240v down lights {GU10 fittings}. I had to replace the transformers with the GU10 sockets to get them running on 240.
I`ve purchased the cree branded led lights and haven`t had any fail yet.
See links below.
240Volt LED Downlights.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-x-GU10...ans&hash=item35bf6ad7ca&_uhb=1#ht_3652wt_1077
GU10 Sockets
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-x-GU1...Fans&hash=item3f171a8c01&_uhb=1#ht_2926wt_996
Savings have already paid for around 12 lights.
I really dislike the compact flouros as I believe they are the most dangerous, containing lead, mercury and other contaminants. In my opionion they take too long to light up. Sometimes a few minutes before they become bright which is annoying if you only want to turn a light on to get something quickly.
LEDs on the other hand are bright instantly, contain no mercury or other contaminants, and still use alot less power than these so called energy saving lights which I found fail more often than the previous incandescent.
Thanks for the feedback.
I opted not to use the 12 volt led down lights. I removed all transformers and used 240v down lights {GU10 fittings}. I had to replace the transformers with the GU10 sockets to get them running on 240.
I`ve purchased the cree branded led lights and haven`t had any fail yet.
See links below.
240Volt LED Downlights.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-x-GU10...ans&hash=item35bf6ad7ca&_uhb=1#ht_3652wt_1077
GU10 Sockets
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-x-GU1...Fans&hash=item3f171a8c01&_uhb=1#ht_2926wt_996
Savings have already paid for around 12 lights.
I really dislike the compact flouros as I believe they are the most dangerous, containing lead, mercury and other contaminants. In my opionion they take too long to light up. Sometimes a few minutes before they become bright which is annoying if you only want to turn a light on to get something quickly.
LEDs on the other hand are bright instantly, contain no mercury or other contaminants, and still use alot less power than these so called energy saving lights which I found fail more often than the previous incandescent.
Don't misunderstand me, I was a little flip in my comment.
yeah there are pros and cons to them all. In CFL, yes there is mercury which becomes a vapor if the glass breaks, don't know about lead tho. They do take a few seconds to warm up - only about 10 in the ones I have, so hasn't bothered me.
The GU10s can fall in the same issues with the other 240V one - the heat sinks are too small. They will work, and can be for quite a while, but won't be 50000 hrs - more likely less than 5000. Whilst they save energy, and I do support their use for that reason, they will be replaced sooner than expected.
We do look at a number of factors including the heath risk, power use, recycling, change over costs (inc an electrician's fees if necessary, and safe proper disposal of old globes), and embodied energy in production and transport etc etc
In *my* house, I have not been impressed enough to retro fit them as yet. And have not actively encouraged others to either with any specific type/brand etc etc etc. However, I keep testing different ones and have a couple of local suppliers that I do refer clients to to make their own decision.
In new house/office builds, then I certainly specify them outright.
yeah there are pros and cons to them all. In CFL, yes there is mercury which becomes a vapor if the glass breaks, don't know about lead tho. They do take a few seconds to warm up - only about 10 in the ones I have, so hasn't bothered me.
The GU10s can fall in the same issues with the other 240V one - the heat sinks are too small. They will work, and can be for quite a while, but won't be 50000 hrs - more likely less than 5000. Whilst they save energy, and I do support their use for that reason, they will be replaced sooner than expected.
We do look at a number of factors including the heath risk, power use, recycling, change over costs (inc an electrician's fees if necessary, and safe proper disposal of old globes), and embodied energy in production and transport etc etc
In *my* house, I have not been impressed enough to retro fit them as yet. And have not actively encouraged others to either with any specific type/brand etc etc etc. However, I keep testing different ones and have a couple of local suppliers that I do refer clients to to make their own decision.
In new house/office builds, then I certainly specify them outright.
Hi folks,
Been through the cfl phase, from purely a light output point of view, they are not bad new, but go off the boil quickly, take a long time to warm up. Not a fan. All now replaced with LED.
Straydingo has a valid point re cheap LED's, they can fail prematurely, the heat sink is critical, I have first hand experience. I am in the electrical industry, and it pays to buy quality, and straydingo is also right about the correct driver gives problem free and longer life LED's.
There are quality ones out there, have done heaps of tests on different brands, have settled on one brand, Brightgreen D900. They are the closest thing to a halogen around, I have no affiliation whatsoever. Actually work in the food and beverage industry. They have a 5 year replacement warranty, and have replaced all my house halogens 1:1. We also now use them at work.
My two bobs worth.
Give these a go straydingo I guarantee you will love em.
Jas
Been through the cfl phase, from purely a light output point of view, they are not bad new, but go off the boil quickly, take a long time to warm up. Not a fan. All now replaced with LED.
Straydingo has a valid point re cheap LED's, they can fail prematurely, the heat sink is critical, I have first hand experience. I am in the electrical industry, and it pays to buy quality, and straydingo is also right about the correct driver gives problem free and longer life LED's.
There are quality ones out there, have done heaps of tests on different brands, have settled on one brand, Brightgreen D900. They are the closest thing to a halogen around, I have no affiliation whatsoever. Actually work in the food and beverage industry. They have a 5 year replacement warranty, and have replaced all my house halogens 1:1. We also now use them at work.
My two bobs worth.
Give these a go straydingo I guarantee you will love em.
Jas
Hi coastrunner,
Thanks for the heads up re silicon, yep too late, but I'm now ready for when it does happen. I thought the connections are a bit dodgy also, I can sort that though, nothing a good soldering iron can't overcome. Thanks for the tip.
Jas
Thanks for the tip Coastrunner, I've only ordered 2 to try out as I thought it would be a bit of trial and error. I agree with the energy saving ones, they do take too long to fully light up.
I have been using MR16 12V LED for my outside lights under the eaves which are on a sensor. While they say not suitable for 12v ac I havn't had any problems yet, not to say that I won't and maybe I will need to change tranny to 12v dc (suitable for led) but the LEDs are cheap enough.
Hi SD, interesting reading your findings, I've noticed they do recommend on the sites for longer life not to run more than 16hrs constant, probably involves the heatsink as you said. At this stage I'm experimenting with cheap LEDs, and if they work and last a couple of years then it's viable, I won't pay $20 a globe. In saying that technology will only improve and LEDs will get cheaper....maybe one day we can buy them for under $5ea in Australia.
Cheers.
I have been using MR16 12V LED for my outside lights under the eaves which are on a sensor. While they say not suitable for 12v ac I havn't had any problems yet, not to say that I won't and maybe I will need to change tranny to 12v dc (suitable for led) but the LEDs are cheap enough.
Hi SD, interesting reading your findings, I've noticed they do recommend on the sites for longer life not to run more than 16hrs constant, probably involves the heatsink as you said. At this stage I'm experimenting with cheap LEDs, and if they work and last a couple of years then it's viable, I won't pay $20 a globe. In saying that technology will only improve and LEDs will get cheaper....maybe one day we can buy them for under $5ea in Australia.
Cheers.
Hi burnsy, I certainly understand the idea of going the cheapies, and they may work out perfectly well. I wanted to get halogen like light output with as close to the halogen colour, 3000-4000k. Most, but not all, of the cheapies won't match halogen Lumen ouput. But to lots of people that doesn't matter.
I wanted to replace 1:1, and from a legal point of view I can change the whole fitting with out going to jail. If I had to get a sparky in to change whole fittings it would certainly make the led option less viable, and I would be putting in the cheapies as well, so completely understand.
One other tip for all, watch out for the Telly, my 50 inch plasma was costing me a fortune in power $300-350/year, i know this for fact, put a true power meter on it, new LED tv $80/year. So spoke to the boss and got a new Telly, didn't tell her we could just watch less tv....
Jas
I wanted to replace 1:1, and from a legal point of view I can change the whole fitting with out going to jail. If I had to get a sparky in to change whole fittings it would certainly make the led option less viable, and I would be putting in the cheapies as well, so completely understand.
One other tip for all, watch out for the Telly, my 50 inch plasma was costing me a fortune in power $300-350/year, i know this for fact, put a true power meter on it, new LED tv $80/year. So spoke to the boss and got a new Telly, didn't tell her we could just watch less tv....
Jas
i have ordered some myself i will give it ago too ....why not
Hey thomo TV's or LEDs? The 60" are getting cheap
Cheers.
seems this thread has merged to house power saving options... does anyone know if changing your fluro bulbs to LEDs in your house will save much money? We are pretty thrifty with our power bills and have only last bill gone over the $300 mark with the price increases. So not sure if they would give us much benefit or not?
cheers
Ants
cheers
Ants
Hi ants, not much of a saving going from fluro to led. Just better light when first turned on, fluro's take time to warm up. Some LEDs have better output now as well. Should get better life from LED's as well. Fluros are around 9-10,000hrs ( though some special fluros are now long life), LEDs are typically around 50,000hrs.
Jas
Jas
Hi guys.
I`ve recently changed over my fluros with the same fitting LED tubes.
The difference?
A regular 120cm fluro uses 36 watts
A regular LED T8 tube {120cm with same connection} uses 18 Watts.
To add, the LED tube is actually brighter than the single fluro, and doesn`t require a starter.
I think I could replace 2 x fluros with a single led tube and get the same light.
They also turn on instantly, no blinking no starters to change over either.
You actually have to remove the starter when fitting the led.
I`ve recently changed over my fluros with the same fitting LED tubes.
The difference?
A regular 120cm fluro uses 36 watts
A regular LED T8 tube {120cm with same connection} uses 18 Watts.
To add, the LED tube is actually brighter than the single fluro, and doesn`t require a starter.
I think I could replace 2 x fluros with a single led tube and get the same light.
They also turn on instantly, no blinking no starters to change over either.
You actually have to remove the starter when fitting the led.