17' Series Help buying 2nd hand 17 series

Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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I just wonder if I'm missing something ????? Mine is a Tekonsha P2 or maybe P3 ???, I hook my van on, check that the brakes work and drive off, may do a small adjustment on damn big hills but otherwise forget about it.............does everyone else constantly monitor their units and fiddle with things or need remotes etc to justify high dollars spent ????.................I use mine for something like 20,000kms a year and hardly think about it after the initial start up check.................not saying the new models are no good but I think set and forget is what is needed no matter what it is, you must be able to use the controller blindfolded, if not then you will die, it's that simple.
So mount the thing so you can grab it instinctively, as easy as moving the flasher, very little movement required...Trust me on this one folks....I'm a Truckie.....as they say.
 

AzHaych

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Mar 15, 2013
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Totally agree @Drover, Ive never touched mine! I did the initial set up which took a 20mtr drive and applying the break. I plug it in, it senses and remembers my van and I drive off.
I dont know, maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Az
 
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dagree

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Mar 3, 2012
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As soon as I pull out the drive with the van on the back (Downhill from there) I slide the manual control and make sure all's good and sometimes use it to slow down on hills to reassure me....

The only problem I've ever had with a brake controller was with a Tekonsha Primus IQ... The DH of a son in law wanted to help wire it up and unfortunately didn't listen and wired the black wire as earth..... Lesson learnt for me "Even if telling others what is what make sure to check things before powering up"... Hence why I now have the P3 ;)
 

Drover

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Excellant news Gentlemen that you train the hand where the unit is, it will pay off if ever needed...... The reason I know this is I did the same thing in the semi and when I hit the patch of diesel, bingo it all happened before I knew it and my truck was safely stopped, the hand and feet just worked things automatically, no jack knife just S&%@t myself big time.
 
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Prm

Member
May 15, 2015
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Glenden Qld
G'day,

Will the rear door on my prado 150 open all the way with the 17.56 hooked up? I have the short draw bar on the 2013 model that I will be picking up on Monday or Tuesday now. I have been trawling through this forum looking at the very nice A frame mods and I want to start planning my own but I keep asking myself the same question!

What about the bloody door?

We have a 30mm OME lift and genuine tow bar. I am more than likely going to need to replace the rear spring with the heavier set and maybe airbags but will wait and see how it goes.

We have a fridge on a slide and Drifta drawer in the back that need a door to open at least most of the way to get into them. I know I can unhitch if needed but if we are doing some big trips it might be a pain in the back door!

We are wanting to fit in a stone guard (d-fleet or style) and toolbox. The gas bottles do not need to go inside the box but would like to fit a little webber q and a few other bits and pieces. We will use the spare wheel carrier on rear bumper idea that can be seen here a number of times. I don't own a welder so diy options are a bit limited but will get something fabricated if needed. I am actually thinking about buying a cheap welder and giving myself a crash course.


Any tips, pics or solutions that will assist the planning process will be appreciated.
 

bigcol

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Nov 22, 2012
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G'day,
Will the rear door on my prado 150 open all the way with the 17.56 hooked up? I have the short draw bar on the 2013 model that I will be picking up on Monday or Tuesday now. I have been trawling through this forum looking at the very nice A frame mods and I want to start planning my own but I keep asking myself the same question!

What about the bloody door?
.

this my friend, you will have to either head out to the Van, with a tape measure
or
wait until you have hooked up to see........

I think @dagree said something about opening about 1/2 to 2/3rds open???? enough to get a "cool" drink out of the fridge was his description.

We are wanting to fit in a stone guard (d-fleet or style) and toolbox.

@Stone Stomper (he is also on this forum) has a very good rep from guys on here
I like the look of them myself, but have not as yet committed to purchase
where as @Drover has built his own..........and some others as well (sorry guys for not tagging you, as I cannot remember everyone..)

The gas bottles do not need to go inside the box but would like to fit a little webber q and a few other bits and pieces.

you may or may not have that option - with the shorter draw bar........ real estate is at a premium on the front..........

We will use the spare wheel carrier on rear bumper idea that can be seen here a number of times. I don't own a welder so diy options are a bit limited but will get something fabricated if needed. I am actually thinking about buying a cheap welder and giving myself a crash course.

put this into perspective - about $1500 to buy the tools (cheap) and learn to DIY (welder, helmet, grinder, grinding disc's, welding rods / welding wire, gas (if MIG) leather gloves, safety glasses, steel to practice on - it can add up quite quickly..........) over a period of months (practice practice practice)
or send a message to @Burnsy as he is / was / is about to make some.........see this thread
http://www.expandasdownunder.com/threads/drop-down-clamp-on-spare-wheel-holder.6868/


Any tips, pics or solutions that will assist the planning process will be appreciated.

ask - and you shall receive
question - and it will be answered
open your wallet - and we shall spend for you.............
 

dagree

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Mar 3, 2012
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I think @dagree said something about opening about 1/2 to 2/3rds open???? enough to get a "cool" drink out of the fridge was his description.

@Prm Depends if your van is an Outback or Tourer model as there is a difference how the hitch is fitted to the bar! OB mounted on bottom of the bar. We have a 120 series to tow the 17.56.2OB (Std drawbar) which would be of similar dimensions etc as the 150. @bigcol is almost correct.... When we first got the van the rear door would open fully. Once the ali box was installed it opened only 1/2 way. Now we use an extended Hayman Reece shank the door can be opened about 2/3 of the way before it hits the toolbox. Still enough to open both rear drawers enough for access and most importantly...... It opens enough to get "That cold drink out of the waeco" ;)

When we had the 16.49.3 tourer expanda no way would we get access into the rear!

open your wallet - and we shall spend for you.............
Can we spend it? Yes we can!!!!!
 
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Drover

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As bigcol and Dags said !!!!!...............mounting stuff on your draw bar is better done when you appy equal weight to the rear, keeping the balance status quo..................mount boxes and stuff on your draw bar by clamping not welding, far better for the integrity of your tow and lastly if you want to know how to weld and more importantly how not to, check out if your local TAFE has a rural welding type course, you get the practical training of the full course without the school room part of the certificate course.
 
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Prm

Member
May 15, 2015
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Glenden Qld
Thanks fellas.

Bolt on is defiantly the go. Will also make it easy if we change ideas or upgrade the van at any time. In time I will defiantly be talking to burns you.

It is an outback model.
 
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Prm

Member
May 15, 2015
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Glenden Qld
Me too now!

The feedback / reviews is about the same for both so I decided to go with the tow pro and stick with the Australian made gear.
Looking at dual battery for the 150 and the red arc gear looks good for that too.
 
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