Just Browsing 12 Volt Fridges

NoWorries

NoWorries

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OK
I'm putting a 250lt 12v fridge in to replace the 150lt three way
Anyone on here that has a 12v fridge around that size ?
Can you tell me if you free camp what size solar and what size battery setup you have (or do you have to run the Gennie more often)

I'm hoping that I can get away with pure solar/battery's unfortunately the specs on these fridges do not give you a average a/h consumption only a max a/h and if the fridge runs on max then im going to cry.

Thanks
 
Dobbie

Dobbie

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Hey @NoWorries i can't help you at all!

But...what brand of fridge? Im surprised one that size is available but I guess you're ditching the three way and going 12v/240. Any reason? I'm curious as we love the three way and it's far more efficient on gas.

We're also currently looking at the thetford 185l three way and are a bit frightened by the 12v requirements for that size so I'd be interested to see what a 250l model would take out of batteries. (The figures we had for the Thetford were indicating max 16ah on 12v but, again, no average as it obviously varies according to conditions.)

Very brave of you....but I'm sure there's a reason. (Or you drink huge amounts of beer!)

>:(
 
yabbietol

yabbietol

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We have a Waco compressor fridge in our van and really are happy with it. I think it is 220L and heaps of space works really well, only minor problem freezer ices up after a week or so, but it is a manageable problem. Compressor is very quite, quieter than our home fridge.
When you get a compressor fridge as a factory option Kedron require you to have 300W of solar and at least 200AH of battery (AGM). They said it was because it gives you enough power to keep the fridge going for a few days, so far they have proved correct. We have 200AH lithium and can supplement the 300W of solar with 160W folding panel and charging from a DC to DC via an Anderson plug from the tow.
In summary a compressor fridge is great, just make sure you have enough solar and battery.
 
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Axl

Axl

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What is the max amp draw for the fridge? If you know it use this, max amp draw X 8= amps used in 24hrs, here is how it works and it is pretty dam close.

The max amp draw is the figure the manufacture gives for their appliances and the 8 stands for 8hrs of compressor run time. Why 8hrs well it is said and makes sense to me that this is how long the compressor of your fridge will have run if you were to add the time that the compressor ran/cycled together over a 24hr period and the final figure is how many amp/hrs the fridge used over that 24hr period.

So in saying that my 40lt Engel has a max amp draw of 2.75 times this by 8(hrs) and you get 22, the 22 equates to 22 amps drawn from the battery.

When I first got my portable solar panels and watt meter I did some real time testing, I set my solar panels up with the watt meter inline to tell me what the fridge would draw to a fully charged 120 amp/hr AGM battery early in the morning one day. I then plugged the Engel into the battery turned it on and let it chill down for a couple of hours, around 10am I filled it full of cold beer then come 2pm I used it as my beer fridge for the rest of the afternoon into the early evening.

Measuring the total draw from the battery the next day for the 24hr period via the watt meter it used 22-23amps. Now remember that the fridge had to chill down and I was opening it every 20 minutes for most of the afternoon and evening for a beer, so as you can see this will give you a close idea of what the fridge will use.

As I say this is close hot weather, kids opening the door every 5 seconds etc will change these figures but it is somewhere to start.
 
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Drover

Drover

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Fella in a park had same as crackacoldie in power but also mentioned heaps of air flow, like a 3 way better airflow less power consumption.........I think the set up is just way too costly, my 185lt 2 door 3 way works well except it' only a 2 way gas/240 and I like the idea if the 240 drops off the gas part will fire up.
 
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yabbietol

yabbietol

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Ventilation needs of compressor fridges are different to gas fridges. Our Waco fridge has the compressor at the top of the fridge. This means we have two normal sized "Dometic" type outside fridge vents at the top of the fridge with no vent at the base. These higher vents are much better for reducing dust ingress, than a vent low down on the outside.
It is also a neat way to spot the compressor fridges on other vans, if no bottom vent it is most likely a compressor fridge. Not certain, but seems to work so far. Certainly is the case with Kedrons.
 
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achjimmy

achjimmy

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I reckon compressor fridges are the go especially as lithium comes down 200ah of lithium is like 400ah of gel and 4-500watt solar is worth buggerall. Will seruiosly consider it for the next van.
 
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Dobbie

Dobbie

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Jun 18, 2014
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Can I ask why a few of you are moving away from the three way fridge?

Is it related to gas regulations re venting into annexe?
Or a disappointment related to general performance on gas?

Or something I'm missing.

I'm a bit interested as we sort out stuff for a new van and want to get it right and hadn't even considered a non three way fridge. The main thing I've been concerned about with the Thetford we've been contemplating is the lack of individual control over power source that the user has. It's "automatic" and senses the power source itself .....to me, that's just another thing that can go wrong. I hate over design!

We'll probably stick with the Thetford as we want to keep our battery to one only and to have enough solar to keep that ticking over but the Thetford will probably draw some 12v while on gas because of the electronic panel (for starting and such) and more while in transit on 12v. I'm assuming our extra solar panel (not needed on the expanda) will be used when free camping.

Personally we found the 150 Dometic to be sheer luxury in comparison with previous van fridges we've had and more than enough for our needs...and very efficient if level. (We started with an esky, then a better esky then an Engel which we still have but loved the onboard fridge which got gradually bigger as we upgraded vans)

Ah hhhhhh. ...the decisions we have to make.
 
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Dobbie

Dobbie

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Ok....thanks @NoWorries

We've rarely had a problem with ours staying cold while trundling so I'm wondering if you had yours charging from vehicle..Id be surprised if you haven't.....ours have been and, except on one occasion when temps were in the high 40's while we drove, the fridge has been fine. After that one occasion, we installed two fridge fans, powered by on board battery which was also getting a solar charge while trundling and it didn't even drop more than one deg in those conditions.

That's why we liked it.

I can understand why you want to change but I was trying to understand the issue.....and maybe save you some $$$$!

Real estate on the draw bar is very precious.

(We're now investigating a couple of rectangular pole carriers for antiflap storage etc and, if we can be convinced they'll hold the afk, fishing rods and extra tent poles securely we may have saved some space as well....but they're far more expensive ....about $380 each.......it's all a matter of balance.... Space v cost)

:car:
 
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achjimmy

achjimmy

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I think the compressors fridges work better in the tropics too. The faster recovery is better when open and shutting on a hot day. The thetford is definetly a better fridge than the dometics in terms of getting cold quicker working on 12v etc but seem to be prone to a few other issues, they run hotter which is to there detriment and performance and definetly use more gas.
 
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Dobbie

Dobbie

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Ah well.....win a few, lose a few.

That fits with my understanding.....
 
NoWorries

NoWorries

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I Tell you what it is a B:eek-53:Ch of a job changing over.
The fridge only just comes out of the hole, then you have to lift it over the lounge and then B@#$#@@ it will not go through the door.
You have to remove the door and the panel undo the switches and dials and then remove the trim.

Make sure you have everything covered in cloth as everything on the fridge is sharp and the trim on the drawers/cupboards are paper thin
I scratches the buggery out of a drawer but luckily it is the drawer that is being removed for the larger fridge.

Now what do I do with this hole ???
IMG_1408.JPG

Might get a off cut from a caravan repair place (when they cut a hole for a hatch or speaker) and then see if my fiber glassing skills are still up there.
Or I could put a small hatch and cut a hole in the back of the fridge can size ;)
 
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Drover

Drover

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I have found with the Waeco and Engels if they don't get a bit of airflow they chew more power, (not a s much as a 3 way) if I was going for a new build I probably would go for a compressor if I could get the panels and batteries at a good price mainly for their cold recovery but I wouldn't go a retro fit just for the sake of it, though I do find my 185lt 2 door 3 way recovers better than smaller jobs...................the compressor fridge would be better at keeping things cold when driving as you really wouldn't have to rely on the tug that much, my 3 way doesn't even run on 12v anyway so would be a bonus............lithium batteries would want to come down a heck of a lot more for me to get some.

Don't block the hole up permanently, in time you will find some brilliant mod to do for it.
 
yabbietol

yabbietol

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NoWorries said:
I Tell you what it is a B:eek-53:Ch of a job changing over.
The fridge only just comes out of the hole, then you have to lift it over the lounge and then B@#$#@@ it will not go through the door.
You have to remove the door and the panel undo the switches and dials and then remove the trim.

Make sure you have everything covered in cloth as everything on the fridge is sharp and the trim on the drawers/cupboards are paper thin
I scratches the buggery out of a drawer but luckily it is the drawer that is being removed for the larger fridge.

Now what do I do with this hole ???
View attachment 45537
Might get a off cut from a caravan repair place (when they cut a hole for a hatch or speaker) and then see if my fiber glassing skills are still up there.
Or I could put a small hatch and cut a hole in the back of the fridge can size ;)
Click to expand...

I thought you take out a window to get fridges in and out of caravans, I did not think they fitted through a caravan door?
 
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