Soon to be Starcraft 17.58.3 owner

[bloke]

No charge on payload you just have to ask for it. They only added 25kg so total of 500kg. The dealer is going to sort that out and have more added though as it was agreed prior to build that more would be added.



Our solar control is in that open cupboard to the left of the drifta as I didn't really want to see it. Its a bit hard to see due to the quality phone pics I took. This might help.

View attachment 43163



Either can I

Only think I didn't mention was they refused to do the trifold table as well. We argued for ages about it but it wasn't going to happen so I gave up. They did reduce the width of the table for me though by 150mm which has made the standard table heaps better to sit at.

Only thing to do now which will be done before pick up (could be a while unless the rain stops) is have the stone stomper made and fitted, AFK fitted and having a 6 B&S feed run from draw bar to battery for charging on the go or using my portable solar panels.

Question for the 17.58.3 owners. What specs did your van come in with (tow ball, tare, atm etc). Also is it normal for the cupboard under the sink to be almost useless due to all the hoses etc running through the floor?

Thanks for the info @MickL . Good idea with the solar regulator placement, nice and neat out of the way. I shall enquire again about the payload upgrade with my dealer. Up to this point, they have explained that without a major cost and structural upgrade, payload increase isn't possible. Further to that, I have explained that other customers have got an extra 50-100 kgs easily, and they say they have never heard of that.... Strange.

Enjoy the van!

 

[Dobbie]

Just a question....possibly very silly...but why would you not want to see the solar regulator?

You need to have a fairly accurate idea of the state of your battery/s and the Drifta or coast to coast can't give that as easily as the regulator....or am I missing something?

 

[MickL]

Just a question....possibly very silly...but why would you not want to see the solar regulator?

I guess there's two reasons why I didn't really want it visible.

One was because if I didn't specify a place for it I was worried that it would end up somewhere I really didn't want it like on the end of the kids bunks.
The other reason is because the panels are on the van roof and fixed I figured once set up I am unlikely to move the van regardless of what the solar display says so I figured that it wasn't an issue. I also thought as long as I can monitor that battery currents going in and out which I can do on the drifter I didn't need to see the solar reg.

I could be wrong with that thinking but that's the reason for the decision (hopefully I'm not totally off track!)

 

[17triton]

Question for the 17.58.3 owners. What specs did your van come in with (tow ball, tare, atm etc). Also is it normal for the cupboard under the sink to be almost useless due to all the hoses etc running through the floor?

Empty ball 171, max ball 224, tare 1977, atm 2502.
The cupboard under the sink is a shocker isn't it. I have an idea to tidy it up a lot which will entail removing the two tank fill hoses and the mains fill inlet hose as well. My plan is to put the mains fill behind the rear mudflap with a non return valve or a ball valve this inlet will then supply both water tanks which I will be able to isolate as needed and continue towards the front of the van to connect to the pump.
The drain for the sink I will move over to the side against the drawers as well as the tank breathers and the hot and cold water pipes. That will leave the gas pipe which I will just box it in as it doesn't impede into the cupboard space to much. Hope that makes sense to you.

 

[Dobbie]

I guess there's two reasons why I didn't really want it visible.

One was because if I didn't specify a place for it I was worried that it would end up somewhere I really didn't want it like on the end of the kids bunks.
The other reason is because the panels are on the van roof and fixed I figured once set up I am unlikely to move the van regardless of what the solar display says so I figured that it wasn't an issue. I also thought as long as I can monitor that battery currents going in and out which I can do on the drifter I didn't need to see the solar reg.

I could be wrong with that thinking but that's the reason for the decision (hopefully I'm not totally off track!)

It comes down to how much you want to use the batteries, I think. As a personal preference, I like to keep an eye on voltage levels rather than other stuff indicated by the Drifta etc as I could never trust readings that tell me I have 72 hours of battery life, etc etc. if my battery reading is 13.6 I'm happy and I know it's fine but if it's 11.8 I know the solar is not working!

We tend to ignore the Drifta and only use it to confirm water levels etc but it was always wrong!

As said, personal preference only, but I get more info from the solar regulator.

The voltmeter readings are also useful.....and a dipstick for the water tanks.

You could be right in your reasoning and oftentimes I'm wrong but I'm set in my ways I guess.

 

[MickL]

Empty ball 171, max ball 224, tare 1977, atm 2502.
The cupboard under the sink is a shocker isn't it. I have an idea to tidy it up a lot which will entail removing the two tank fill hoses and the mains fill inlet hose as well. My plan is to put the mains fill behind the rear mudflap with a non return valve or a ball valve this inlet will then supply both water tanks which I will be able to isolate as needed and continue towards the front of the van to connect to the pump.
The drain for the sink I will move over to the side against the drawers as well as the tank breathers and the hot and cold water pipes. That will leave the gas pipe which I will just box it in as it doesn't impede into the cupboard space to much. Hope that makes sense to you.

Thanks. I'm sure that plumbing will make sense when I have the van to look at more closely.... My empty ball mass was 148 which I thought was light and the max weight is N/A for some reason. Tare was 1984 and ATM 2484.

It comes down to how much you want to use the batteries, I think. As a personal preference, I like to keep an eye on voltage levels rather than other stuff indicated by the Drifta etc as I could never trust readings that tell me I have 72 hours of battery life, etc etc. if my battery reading is 13.6 I'm happy and I know it's fine but if it's 11.8 I know the solar is not working!

We tend to ignore the Drifta and only use it to confirm water levels etc but it was always wrong!

As said, personal preference only, but I get more info from the solar regulator.

The voltmeter readings are also useful.....and a dipstick for the water tanks.

You could be right in your reasoning and oftentimes I'm wrong but I'm set in my ways I guess.

Time will tell I guess! Hopefully not but it wouldn't be the first time I've been wrong although the Drifta does display the battery voltage doesn't it so should be able to see that without seeing the solar reg?

 

[17triton]

Thanks. I'm sure that plumbing will make sense when I have the van to look at more closely.... My empty ball mass was 148 which I thought was light and the max weight is N/A for some reason. Tare was 1984 and ATM 2484.

I ordered mine with spares front and rear to give me extra weight for when I removed the front spare and replaced it with the toolbox .

 

[17triton]

It comes down to how much you want to use the batteries, I think. As a personal preference, I like to keep an eye on voltage levels rather than other stuff indicated by the Drifta etc as I could never trust readings that tell me I have 72 hours of battery life, etc etc. if my battery reading is 13.6 I'm happy and I know it's fine but if it's 11.8 I know the solar is not working!

We tend to ignore the Drifta and only use it to confirm water levels etc but it was always wrong!

As said, personal preference only, but I get more info from the solar regulator.

The voltmeter readings are also useful.....and a dipstick for the water tanks.

You could be right in your reasoning and oftentimes I'm wrong but I'm set in my ways I guess.

Every time I checked my solar reg vs drifta it has been spot on. You may of got the dodgey one.

 

[MickL]

Every time I checked my solar reg vs drifta it has been spot on. You may of got the dodgey one.

That's what I was hoping would be the case with ours and kind of what I based my decision on! Fingers crossed!

 

[Pauly]

Somehow hadn't seen your thread before now:doh:
Nice van!! Great list of options , that'll be great we are very happy with ours.
Our weights are
Ball 128
Tare 2032
Atm 2557
=Payload 525

 

[MickL]

Somehow hadn't seen your thread before now:doh:
Nice van!! Great list of options , that'll be great we are very happy with ours.
Our weights are
Ball 128
Tare 2032
Atm 2557
=Payload 525

Thanks mate, I'm looking forward to getting it that's for sure!

The van is pretty much as first listed except we added one extra 12v point in overhead cupboard above main bed for a fan and also having a through wall fitting for satellite dish feed, stone stomper and 6B&S / anderson plug fitted prior to pick up. I've started stock piling gear at home now as well so starting to get closer. Just need to decide on a tool box to mount on the front as well when we get it home.

My garage is booked into be installed in 4 days again now and looks like the rains going to hold off so fingers crossed that will get us closer to be able to bring it home!

Mick

 

[Pauly]

Fantastic all coming together, I had wanted to have a heap of goodies ready and waiting but just never got that round tuit ....

 

[bigcol]

here is an Egyptian one for you @Pauly





or would you prefer a Roman one...

 

[bigcol]

 

[Pauly]

Jeez thanks I'll take the Egyptian one !! Wonder what the exchange rates like atm? Much classier than the one a mate gave me that looked like a cheap Casino chip, I seam to have misplaced it though.....

 

[MickL]

Heard from the dealer today and my payload has been upgraded the full 100 kgs now so total of 575kg so that's great. Still waiting on other extras to be done but no rush on them.

Also managed to get my garage installed on the weekend as planned so now just have to dig some more electrical in for lights and power on carport. The just need to wait for the ground to dry up enough for a bobcat to remove the last bits of concrete and prep surfaces so I can fence and then concrete. One step closer.....

 

[17triton]

Great news Mick! Won't be long now mate.

 

[MickL]

@17triton only thing really causing a delay now is the rain! I'm pretty happy taking my time now as I have resigned myself to the fact that I am better to delay pick up of the van and get the reno's done to a standard I am happy with rather than rush for the sake of a month of two of getting the van home earlier....

On a side note I had a 2 inch ultimates suspension done on Friday and I'm pretty happy with how much nicer the car feels to drive so should make it better to tow with as well. @17triton do you know what bit you needed to get to use the hayman reece with the higher suspension?

Apparently the standard suspension had sagged about 40mm from standard height though which I did not realize. So I dropped the car off thinking it was getting a 50mm lift max and when I picked it up the rear had raised almost 90mm Was a bit surprised to say the least.

 

[17triton]

@17triton only thing really causing a delay now is the rain! I'm pretty happy taking my time now as I have resigned myself to the fact that I am better to delay pick up of the van and get the reno's done to a standard I am happy with rather than rush for the sake of a month of two of getting the van home earlier....

On a side note I had a 2 inch ultimates suspension done on Friday and I'm pretty happy with how much nicer the car feels to drive so should make it better to tow with as well. @17triton do you know what bit you needed to get to use the hayman reece with the higher suspension?

Apparently the standard suspension had sagged about 40mm from standard height though which I did not realize. So I dropped the car off thinking it was getting a 50mm lift max and when I picked it up the rear had raised almost 90mm Was a bit surprised to say the least.

Mine was a bit like that to although I think I was around 60-70mm I think. I'm pretty sure it has settled a bit but still feels great to drive. I have a longer dropshank for the wdh mainly due to the ARB rear bar with the higher receiver.

 

[bloke]

@MickL , I too have a triton and shortly after purchasing it new, had to get the suspension upgrade (2inch standard lift). This was due to draws and a canopy weight making the rear end sag significantly, to the point that I was dragging the factory tow bar over gutters and driveways, that even the average sedan wouldn't!

As you would know, the factory tow bars on the MN's hangs back a long way. Much the same as @17triton , I have a longer drop shank for towing the van with the WDH. For general small trailer towing etc, I stick with the standard hitch when keeping the load level isn't as important.

I remember after getting my triton lifted I thought it was massive and too high, but it soon settled and 60k's later I am still very happy with the result and ride.

Not long now mate!