Electrical Need some advice on a couple of issues.

dagree

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Mar 3, 2012
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Definitely DO NOT run the 12V direct from the van's battery to fridge..... It'll be flat before you hit your destination.

Best option (My Opinion!!!!) is run a fused & switched heavy wire (Minimum 6B&S/13mm2 + and -) direct to your car battery and fit an anderson plug to it. Wire an anderson plug and heavier wire from the car's anderson plug to the fridge.

I went against the relay switched option (Too lazy ;) ) but did install a low cutoff switch set to turn the fridge at 11.5V's. Reason for the LCS and no relay was due to our ESC being hooked up to the same anderson plug!
 

Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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Yep agree with @dagree as to wiriing up new plug......I've have said it elsewhere about checking the fridge wiring, the wire from your plug will travel inside the draw bar and then come out and run into the van, hidden under a piece of dodgy tin you will find a jumble of wires, crimped, taped and twisted together..not a solder join in sight....in this mess is your power for the fridge, now it will more than likely be a big lump 2 wires in + and - with 4 wires out + and - , one set will go to the fridge and the other to the setec and a diode should stop power from the setec/battery running to your fridge ( or so the theory goes ).............this jumble is quite possibly where your power loss is coming from..........if you run a dedicated hot wire to the fridge then this jumble needs to be sorted out as well to save other problems occuring later on.

@expanda has a good thread on it all here : http://www.expandasdownunder.com/th...2-volt-fridge-hotwire-12-volt-hotwire-diy.30/

I have found the 12 pin depending on how it is mounted may have a melt down due to the large pins pulling out or moving and have gone to an Anderson, I have also used a standard 35amp light relay fitted next to fridge and hooked to park lights so when parkers are on so will the fridge and since my Colorado chimes away when lights are left on I shouldn't get a flat battery when stopped. Fitted next to fridge the relay won't interfere with anything else running off the same circuit.
 
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chartrock

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Sep 26, 2010
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Definitely DO NOT run the 12V direct from the van's battery to fridge..... It'll be flat before you hit your destination.

Best option (My Opinion!!!!) is run a fused & switched heavy wire (Minimum 6B&S/13mm2 + and -) direct to your car battery and fit an anderson plug to it. Wire an anderson plug and heavier wire from the car's anderson plug to the fridge.

I went against the relay switched option (Too lazy ;) ) but did install a low cutoff switch set to turn the fridge at 11.5V's. Reason for the LCS and no relay was due to our ESC being hooked up to the same anderson plug!
True, do not run the fridge from the house battery (unless you have one of the whizz-bang compressor fridges).

I favour the ignition controlled relay for the fridge wire (as @dagree says, at least 6 B&S) with an anderson plug and another anderson plug for the ESC. I also run a 3rd anderson plug for my battery which is connected from the truck's second battery. This means I can plug solar panels into either the van to charge the house battery or to the truck to charge the 2nd battery.
 
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Prm

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May 15, 2015
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Thanks fella's. The advice has been taken.

I had a quick look at the jumble you mentioned Drover and thought "what a mess" and left it that way. Next weekend i will look at it in more depth and if no luck i will just get some help. I want to sort it out before we head to the sunshine coast for chrissy.
 
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Drover

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I ended up tagging the wires in the jungle/jumble and soldering them then heat shrink, wrapped them up all nice and shoved them in an alloy box/cover I made, keeps rocks and most water away from them. It was a big pain to do but all is good now, but ended up running seperate wires for battery and fridge, fridge runs from anderson off tug and battery/van draws from 12 pin, at least thats what I think I did...!!!!!!!!
 
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daznmel

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Oct 21, 2013
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Hi Prm,

Your making progress with your electrical problems.

You had me going, as I was thinking, there could not possibly be that big a change in the electrics between my 2013 and your 2014 van... could there ! (then again this is Jayco ). My mate had a 17.56.2 and it was wired the same as mine.
So I went and got my Jayco Manual.. The 12 Pin Electrical plug break out in the manual is detailing the industry standard .. does not mean Jayco actually followed it.. I know confusing..(you find the same info on the back of a Navara trailer plug packet)

Pin 2 is the industry standard for Reverse signal.. there is no reverse lights on a Jayco van.. so on my van (straight from the factory ) they put the Battery charging wire, a thick black wire (why use pin 2, I have no idea). Tow bar installers will still have reverse connected to pin 2 on a Tug, so need to careful with this.
Pin 9 runs my fridge direct wire (through the jungle/jumble as most appropriately named).

(I note a previous post mentions a combined hot-wire splitting to the fridge and Setec. This was the case for my Jayco Swan, but not the Expanda. The 150lt fridge draws approx 15A on its own (fridge manual recommends a 20A fused circuit), hence Jayco put the extra hot-wire in.

13V on Pin 9 on tug is good start, 0.6V at Fridge is bad.. so good find.. now need to know why.
I am sticking to my original thoughts, where is the second hot wire?

My suggestions;
1. With your van battery isolated, tug plugged in, does your internal van lights work.. if yes, then power is from your tug. Pull the trailer plug to double check. (Mine does this). Just checking if this part of your hot-wires is working.
2. I would take the covers off your trailer plug and check you have wires on pin 2 and pin 9.. (and white wires to pin 3 & 10).

Pin 2 on mine was a black wire thicker then the rest of the trailer light wires on the 7 pin side. (These heavy current wires should stand out as much thicker then the rest)
(Like I said before, if you have a wire on your van plug pin 2, then it is for something else other then reverse lights, unless you had a set fitted)

Pin 9 is a very thick pink wire (in the Jungle/jumble this will connect to a Thick red wire with a Wire Joiner and goes to the fridge)
Pin 10 very thick white wire is the fridge earth..(changes to a very thick black wire and goes to the fridge)
Actually this is a good point.. make sure you have a earth on pin 10 on the tug.. otherwise no power at fridge as missing earth return (I think I recall all the earth points are not common on the van, fridge earth is separate to the rest ).
I am also not sure where you earthed the multi-meter when you tested pin 9 on the tug, if you used pin 10 then good.

I hope this helps you, not confuse you.
Sorry for the long response.

Cheers
 
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Prm

Member
May 15, 2015
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Glenden Qld
Ok thanks guys.

I am going to give it another crack today and work on the further tips you have given Daz.

Thanks again and i will update later today.
 

Prm

Member
May 15, 2015
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Glenden Qld
Good news!

We have 13.8v at the fridge. Woo Hoo.

I don't have lights on in the van when hooked to the tug and battery is isolated though. so i am thinking that am not getting power to the setec when driving. i will save that for another day because i i think that is on the tug side.

i am happy though because the fridge is working and it only cost me some time and a $40 multimeter.

Next step is the tool box and spare relocation.

Thanks for the help.
 

daznmel

Member
Oct 21, 2013
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Hey that is great work. Well done.. At least the fridge should hold temp whilst driving now.. at least you can recharge battery before you leave and at your destination if 240V is available.

Not sure if you seen the other thread regards to the 12 Pin setup.

Hey @Jimbo

Not sure if this helps, this is what we were told to use which the installer wired up

View attachment 37163

The copy of the Jayco wiring is exactly how my Expanda is wired up.
This should help when you start to look at the second hot wire.

Cheers
 

Bluey

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Mar 31, 2014
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CRIKEY!!!!!

Just got a quote for a tool box custom made. $2280. I didn't think i was asking for anything too flash!

1850 x 500 x 500 with top and end doors and a couple of vents so gas bottles can go inside.

Looks like its back to the drawing board.

The minister for finance will castrate me if i spend that on a bloody tool box.
google G7 Australia they make great boxes there in Brisbane will freight to you easy the box I want 1800x600 wide x 500 high 600bucks will send it to me in vic
 
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Prm

Member
May 15, 2015
26
41
13
Glenden Qld
Righto.

Ordered a toolbox from Matesratestools today. Thanks Drover. $505 delivered which is a good deal i reckon for a 2.5mm plate box. I reckon i will put a vent on it and put the Gas inside. It is 1400x500x500 so it should fit the bottles and the baby Q with a little bit of fiddling. if not i will sort out a bracket and put them outside and plumb the gas line accordingly.

Hopefully be ready for the chrissy trip.