Fridge stopped working

Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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The best way to test if its working is to feel the casing of the flue, warm /hot means its working..................... Give the gas a few minutes to work its way along the system, mine can take a few minutes at times before I get it going ... waiting for it to get cold inside is like watching golf....

If still nothing getting warm at the back then I would say the selector switch has fried as thats what ties all sources together, circuit dia doesn't show any fuses anywhere either, so it would be a suss item.
 
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Drover

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This switch could be the culprit https://www.caravansplus.com.au/swi...2350-rm2453-rm2553-rm4601-fridges-p-7328.html

Its certainly my suspect if you know the power point is active and it won;t start on gas after a few attempts..... Pretty certain fridge needs to be removed to get at though .................... be easy enough to spot if its cactus by the cooked marks around the terminals................ pull fridge out be a good time to improve insulation as well .................
 

Boots in Action

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Must be stuffed. Have just tried on 240v, no good, I have tried to connect on gas and it will not ignite. I turned the stove knobs to make sure the gas was coming through and the stove worked fine.

I guess she's knackered..?
Not good @garfield28 as no operation on 240v and gas! Did you check to see if gas was getting to burner for fridge? And is there any spark from piezo to light gas. Gas may be getting to to stove, but it is a separate gas line to fridge burner. Suggest select gas on controller, hold down gas control and see if you can smell or detect gas at burner. Need to remove lower panel at side of van to do this. Remember...NO NAKED FLAME/s until gas has dispersed. Looks like 240v for fridge heating element is cactus, but unit should still run on gas. If not able to get gas to burner, then we are back to the selector switch contacts damaged. Maybe getting out of your area of knowledge, BUT IT IS NOT OVER YET!!
Note: A 240v heating element for your fridge from RV vans is only $105.00 and you can get someone to fit it. Quite easy too.
 
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Boots in Action

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The best way to test if its working is to feel the casing of the flue, warm /hot means its working..................... Give the gas a few minutes to work its way along the system, mine can take a few minutes at times before I get it going ... waiting for it to get cold inside is like watching golf....

If still nothing getting warm at the back then I would say the selector switch has fried as thats what ties all sources together, circuit dia doesn't show any fuses anywhere either, so it would be a suss item.
@Drover, I think we both agree on that diagnosis if gas is NOT actually getting to burner. And cannot be ignited.

@garfield28 Removal of lower side cover is straight forward and makes checking gas flow/flame more visible.
 

garfield28

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Jun 28, 2021
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The best way to test if its working is to feel the casing of the flue, warm /hot means its working..................... Give the gas a few minutes to work its way along the system, mine can take a few minutes at times before I get it going ... waiting for it to get cold inside is like watching golf....

If still nothing getting warm at the back then I would say the selector switch has fried as thats what ties all sources together, circuit dia doesn't show any fuses anywhere either, so it would be a suss item.

Thanks Drover.

Which type of professional would I be looking for to have look at it if it is the switch?
 

garfield28

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Jun 28, 2021
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This switch could be the culprit https://www.caravansplus.com.au/swi...2350-rm2453-rm2553-rm4601-fridges-p-7328.html

Its certainly my suspect if you know the power point is active and it won;t start on gas after a few attempts..... Pretty certain fridge needs to be removed to get at though .................... be easy enough to spot if its cactus by the cooked marks around the terminals................ pull fridge out be a good time to improve insulation as well .................

I haven't tried it on 12v yet I tried to the other night but that was off the house battery, and I have read it only works off 12v from the tow vehicle.

Might have to look for a YouTube video to see how to pull the fridge out and look
 
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Boots in Action

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Thanks Drover.

Which type of professional would I be looking for to have look at it if it is the switch?
Where do you live and where is the van? Caravan repair shops usually have electrical/gas fitter personnel on site.
I haven't tried it on 12v yet I tried to the other night but that was off the house battery, and I have read it only works off 12v from the tow vehicle.

Might have to look for a YouTube video to see how to pull the fridge out and look
 
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garfield28

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Not good @garfield28 as no operation on 240v and gas! Did you check to see if gas was getting to burner for fridge? And is there any spark from piezo to light gas. Gas may be getting to to stove, but it is a separate gas line to fridge burner. Suggest select gas on controller, hold down gas control and see if you can smell or detect gas at burner. Need to remove lower panel at side of van to do this. Remember...NO NAKED FLAME/s until gas has dispersed. Looks like 240v for fridge heating element is cactus, but unit should still run on gas. If not able to get gas to burner, then we are back to the selector switch contacts damaged. Maybe getting out of your area of knowledge, BUT IT IS NOT OVER YET!!
Note: A 240v heating element for your fridge from RV vans is only $105.00 and you can get someone to fit it. Quite easy too.
My son is a refrigeration mechanic, but with the electrical side of things not sure he'd be able to diagnose some of that other stuff. I'll get the Mrs to press the ignitor and see if I can see the spark from the back vent and also listen out for the gas.
 
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Boots in Action

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Where do you live and where is the van? Caravan repair shops usually have electrical/gas fitter personnel on site.
Fridge is usually NOT connected to van battery, so only works on 12v when connected to tug and engine going.

My son is a refrigeration mechanic, but with the electrical side of things not sure he'd be able to diagnose some of that other stuff. I'll get the Mrs to press the ignitor and see if I can see the spark from the back vent and also listen out for the gas.
Great idea, but try the spark test first , not at the same time as gas flow!!! You should be able to SMELL the gas at least.
 
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Boots in Action

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My son is a refrigeration mechanic, but with the electrical side of things not sure he'd be able to diagnose some of that other stuff. I'll get the Mrs to press the ignitor and see if I can see the spark from the back vent and also listen out for the gas.
I would go with your son to fix the problem. As he is a fridge mechanic, he is knowledgeable on both electrics and gas fitting, as it is not a complicated job. Yes, at this time of the year, you would be lucky to have someone look at fridge before the end of January, but probably later. And they would charge you for their time to check and test. Moving the fridge is a careful move as it involves disconnecting 240v wiring, 12v connection and last but not least GAS, besides the mounting screws. Get your son to supervise/do the work and you can do a better job and save heaps. But remember the SAFETY factor at all times!!
 
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garfield28

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Just tried listening from the vent to see if I could hear the gas but I really couldn't, and not sure I'd be able as I also don't know where it would be coming out. I also tried looking to see if I could see the spark from the ignitor but I couldn't see anything but not sure I know exactly where to look for that either.

My son has a gas detector sensor, I might see if he can come over with it and if I try the gas again see if it picks it coming out at all but seems so strange that the fridge was working so well on both gas and AC perfectly before and now nothing from either.
 

Boots in Action

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Mar 13, 2017
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Just tried listening from the vent to see if I could hear the gas but I really couldn't, and not sure I'd be able as I also don't know where it would be coming out. I also tried looking to see if I could see the spark from the ignitor but I couldn't see anything but not sure I know exactly where to look for that either.

My son has a gas detector sensor, I might see if he can come over with it and if I try the gas again see if it picks it coming out at all but seems so strange that the fridge was working so well on both gas and AC perfectly before and now nothing from either.
If the switching terminals are fried, then that would prevent all the contacts from making the proper connection. A 240v surge to a direct short circuit will do a lot of damage even before the RCD operates!!e
 
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garfield28

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Just spoke with my son, he said he knows how to test if the switch is that, but now I need to find out how to remove the cover on the fridge to get to the selector switch. Seems the selector switch knob just pulls out but the thermostat knob doesn't seem to wanna just pull out, any ideas? I cannot find anything in the manual on how to remove it
 

garfield28

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Jun 28, 2021
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OK, so the thermostat knob also just pulls out but just took a little extra Vegemite.

Now have removed the 2 screws that hold the plastic cover, but 2 wires are connected to the gas on/off indicator so that stays in the way, and also there are 2 rivers that look like they'll need to be drilled out to get to the back of the knobs where the back of the switch is, maybe I just need to pull the fridge out to be able to get my son to check the switch?
 

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Boots in Action

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Mar 13, 2017
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OK, so the thermostat knob also just pulls out but just took a little extra Vegemite.

Now have removed the 2 screws that hold the plastic cover, but 2 wires are connected to the gas on/off indicator so that stays in the way, and also there are 2 rivers that look like they'll need to be drilled out to get to the back of the knobs where the back of the switch is, maybe I just need to pull the fridge out to be able to get my son to check the switch?
I don't believe you can get to the selector switch from the front. You need to move fridge forward enough to gain access to the top controls including the selector switch.
Also the two wires you still see are actually connected to the flame indicator meter for gas operation and only indicate that the gas flame is going when indicator is in the green. It has nothing to do with a ON/Off switch - just shows GAS ON (and lit) or GAS OFF and/or gas not lit.
Do not drill out the rivets that you see. They are holding the metal plate that all the controls are attached to.
Also get your son to check that 240v heating element has not failed (burnt out).
 
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garfield28

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I don't believe you can get to the selector switch from the front. You need to move fridge forward enough to gain access to the top controls including the selector switch.
Also the two wires you still see are actually connected to the flame indicator meter for gas operation and only indicate that the gas flame is going when indicator is in the green. It has nothing to do with a ON/Off switch - just shows GAS ON (and lit) or GAS OFF and/or gas not lit.
Do not drill out the rivets that you see. They are holding the metal plate that all the controls are attached to.
Also get your son to check that 240v heating element has not failed (burnt out).
He is going to come around tomorrow... Will report back.

Thanks for all of the replies, help and advice guys really appreciate it.
 
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Drover

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As I said earlier to get at the switches on the panel the fridge needs to be removed from van, I haven't read the Instalation manual that well to date, thats the best way to find out ........... but you will have to unscrew the gas line, gently, disconnect the 12v cables (turn van battery off) unplug the mains lead and pull it thru the hole in wall, fixing screws you need to refer to instalation manual..............

Give 12v a miss too mush stuffing around hooking up to tug, though my fridge has an anderson plug for power to fridge from tug, so I can use a Anderson jumper lead and plug into van supply, with my solar I can run the fridge while the sun shines, no sun probably get an hour or so before killing battery....

Advised to select gas, walk away for awhile then return and try to start on gas, remove lower vent, if its dark you will see the flicker of flame and while removing the wind guard from burner makes things more visible its easier to just use you hand on the bottom of the flue, if its going, it will be warm/hot, give it a minute or so though ... My money is on selector switch being frazzled and sounds like your fella will be more than capable of seeing if the switch is stuffed, secret signs are smell, the black and white wires from switch are the 240v so if they are sort of darkish then thats also a sign it cooked ...........
Anyway if you haven't got an installation manual go here https://epi.dometic.com/externalass...S*MTcwNDI2NTE2NC4yLjEuMTcwNDI2NTE2OS41NS4wLjA.

It will download a pdf manual for your fridge ... from the Dometic site..... so look at it before you start pulling things apart ...........

Leave you with what sounds the capable hands of your young fella .................. Hope to hear good news in the future.
 

garfield28

Active Member
Jun 28, 2021
152
70
28
NSW
As I said earlier to get at the switches on the panel the fridge needs to be removed from van, I haven't read the Instalation manual that well to date, thats the best way to find out ........... but you will have to unscrew the gas line, gently, disconnect the 12v cables (turn van battery off) unplug the mains lead and pull it thru the hole in wall, fixing screws you need to refer to instalation manual..............

Give 12v a miss too mush stuffing around hooking up to tug, though my fridge has an anderson plug for power to fridge from tug, so I can use a Anderson jumper lead and plug into van supply, with my solar I can run the fridge while the sun shines, no sun probably get an hour or so before killing battery....

Advised to select gas, walk away for awhile then return and try to start on gas, remove lower vent, if its dark you will see the flicker of flame and while removing the wind guard from burner makes things more visible its easier to just use you hand on the bottom of the flue, if its going, it will be warm/hot, give it a minute or so though ... My money is on selector switch being frazzled and sounds like your fella will be more than capable of seeing if the switch is stuffed, secret signs are smell, the black and white wires from switch are the 240v so if they are sort of darkish then thats also a sign it cooked ...........
Anyway if you haven't got an installation manual go here https://epi.dometic.com/externalass...S*MTcwNDI2NTE2NC4yLjEuMTcwNDI2NTE2OS41NS4wLjA.

It will download a pdf manual for your fridge ... from the Dometic site..... so look at it before you start pulling things apart ...........

Leave you with what sounds the capable hands of your young fella .................. Hope to hear good news in the future.
Thanks Boots.

Let you know how I go.