Hi new to forum and have a 14.44-4 have run 6b&s cable to a Anderson plug in vehicle just wondering what size fuse or circuit breaker to use and which is better also brands the guy at shop said to use a 100 amp fuse just not sure if that is to big thanks for any information.
Anderson plug help
- Thread starter 14.44-4 pajero
- Start date
Hi there
Welcome to the forum, you should find all u need to know about your van on here. Not sure exacly what 6b&s cable is capable of carrying but I personally wouldn't use as big as fuse as that. I tend to use a fuse size more suited to what I need to plug into the Anderson plug rather than what is the maximum the cable can handle. I have a 40amp fuse on the same size cable running to an Anderson plug on my vehicle. I run my fridge in the van which draws about 25amps and can use it to run my compressor which draws about the same.
That's just my personal preference, it allows my equipment to run safely without overheating terminals etc, and as the Anderson plug I used can only carry 50amps, I don't see the point in having a massive fuse to protect it.
I reckon a 40 or 50amp fuse would be more than suffice.
Hope this helps
Rohan
Welcome to the forum, you should find all u need to know about your van on here. Not sure exacly what 6b&s cable is capable of carrying but I personally wouldn't use as big as fuse as that. I tend to use a fuse size more suited to what I need to plug into the Anderson plug rather than what is the maximum the cable can handle. I have a 40amp fuse on the same size cable running to an Anderson plug on my vehicle. I run my fridge in the van which draws about 25amps and can use it to run my compressor which draws about the same.
That's just my personal preference, it allows my equipment to run safely without overheating terminals etc, and as the Anderson plug I used can only carry 50amps, I don't see the point in having a massive fuse to protect it.
I reckon a 40 or 50amp fuse would be more than suffice.
Hope this helps
Rohan
As Rohan has said your anderson plug is likely to be the 50amp variety as these are the most common size for vans. So you should use a fuse that takes that into account, 50amp will be the largest size you should use unless you have a heavier anderson plug fitted.
Thanks guys, I was thinking the same as Anderson plug was only 50amp, what brand fuses are you all using and where did you get them as I can only find the mega fuse but its minimum amps is 100 amps
mine also runs circuit breakers, as does the power outlets to the rear of the tug for my fridge etc.
I also run circuit breakers in mine. I have a 100Amp on the output side of the aux battery which feeds the Anderson plug and the three outlets in the rear cargo area of my Prado. When we aren't towing the spanda or using the Waeco I trip the breaker. Stops me from having a high capacity 12V supply at the back of the car for nasty fingers to mess with. Yeah the breaker would trip if they were shorted, but better safe than sorry.
As above 40-50 amp fuse or breaker. 6 b&s is 13mm sq and cables current rating changes with the environment. I recall 55 or 60 amps continuous was the best saftey rating for 6 B&S . I used thos inline breakers designed for car doof doof systems, cheap and simple and are able to be used as a isolater as well. Personally I don't like those auto resetting ones as the sole circuit protection. If you have a short and It continually resets, at what point does the battery or other component fry? My 2c worth.
Provided you have sized the circuit breaker correctly you should have little risk in damaging wiring etc, you will also find that the auto reset breakers will eventually fail and stay open if subjected to a long term short. You have a valid point though that if the breaker did fail and bridge out you could have problems. The main area of advantage the auto reset has is if you severely flatten your van battery the initial draw could be quite large and constantly trip the breaker until the battery builds up a bit of a charge. If you are travelling and have a breaker that does not reset you may not detect this until you arrive at your destination and find the battery is still flat. If your fridge is also run from there it will not have had any power also.
The one place you must use an auto reset breaker though is in the supply for your brake unit.
hi guys, new to this forum and would like to help. am an ex electrician and have quite some knowledge about it but i don't know all about it , about the anderson plugs.so i sow this on some website,
DIY Guide to Anderson Plugs
For anyone who has set up a power supply to a trailer, Anderson Plugs are the plug of choice for connecting the vehicle trailer power supply wiring with the trailer power supply wiring. These plugs come in a huge range of sizes, and even colours now, with each of the different size plugs having a different amp rating, with each of the different colours only able to plug into a plug of the same colour.
The plugs can only be pushed together in a certain way, so there is no chance of connecting them up incorrectly (providing the wiring and lugs are installed correctly in the set up stage), and each plug is marked with a "+" and "-" on either lug/terminal as an added reminder.
The most popular Anderson Plug size is the 50 amp plug with #6 contacts, as this is ample big enough to handle the power to charge an auxiliary battery in a trailer. These plugs are available at most auto retail outlets as well as E-bay, and come in many different brands, and at prices ranging from $3.00 each to $18.00 each. I try and purchase genuine branded Anderson Plugs, and use E-bay retailers for this, purchasing packs of 10 complete plugs for around $30.00. To buy genuine or not is a personal choice, and I'm not convinced there is much difference between the genuine and non genuine products, but it is just my choice.
50 amp Anderson Plug Dimension
Anderson Plug Accessories
Dust covers with rubber or hinged lids.
Rubber boots for the back of the plugs.
T-handles to make pulling the plugs apart much easier.
Setting up your Anderson Plugs
Trim the insulation of the end of the wires you are using, so that there is just enough bare wire to insert into the lug.
Now this is the part which may divide a few people, I always like to crimp and solder my lugs, sort of hedging my bets I guess, but I figure it can't hurt.
To assist to hold everything whilst soldering I hold the lug with a set of multigrips.
I then hold the soldering iron on the side of the lug and allow the heat to soak through. At the same time I hold the end of the soldering wire in the end of the lug. As the lug and wire heats up, the solder will slowly melt and you will have to feed the wire into the lug. I keep feeding the wire into the lug until it fills to the top with molten solder.
Allow the lugs to cool.
The lugs can then be pushed into the plug housing, making sure you get the polarity right with the marks on the plug.
Inside the outer casing of the plug is a metal plate which locates and retains the lugs once pushed in correctly.
If installed correctly the contact inside the plug should look like this.
DISCLAIMER: I have no electrical qualifications here in AUS>, so take this advice as that from a backyard hack.
DIY Guide to Anderson Plugs
For anyone who has set up a power supply to a trailer, Anderson Plugs are the plug of choice for connecting the vehicle trailer power supply wiring with the trailer power supply wiring. These plugs come in a huge range of sizes, and even colours now, with each of the different size plugs having a different amp rating, with each of the different colours only able to plug into a plug of the same colour.
The plugs can only be pushed together in a certain way, so there is no chance of connecting them up incorrectly (providing the wiring and lugs are installed correctly in the set up stage), and each plug is marked with a "+" and "-" on either lug/terminal as an added reminder.
The most popular Anderson Plug size is the 50 amp plug with #6 contacts, as this is ample big enough to handle the power to charge an auxiliary battery in a trailer. These plugs are available at most auto retail outlets as well as E-bay, and come in many different brands, and at prices ranging from $3.00 each to $18.00 each. I try and purchase genuine branded Anderson Plugs, and use E-bay retailers for this, purchasing packs of 10 complete plugs for around $30.00. To buy genuine or not is a personal choice, and I'm not convinced there is much difference between the genuine and non genuine products, but it is just my choice.
50 amp Anderson Plug Dimension
Anderson Plug Accessories
Dust covers with rubber or hinged lids.
Rubber boots for the back of the plugs.
T-handles to make pulling the plugs apart much easier.
Setting up your Anderson Plugs
Trim the insulation of the end of the wires you are using, so that there is just enough bare wire to insert into the lug.
Now this is the part which may divide a few people, I always like to crimp and solder my lugs, sort of hedging my bets I guess, but I figure it can't hurt.
To assist to hold everything whilst soldering I hold the lug with a set of multigrips.
I then hold the soldering iron on the side of the lug and allow the heat to soak through. At the same time I hold the end of the soldering wire in the end of the lug. As the lug and wire heats up, the solder will slowly melt and you will have to feed the wire into the lug. I keep feeding the wire into the lug until it fills to the top with molten solder.
Allow the lugs to cool.
The lugs can then be pushed into the plug housing, making sure you get the polarity right with the marks on the plug.
Inside the outer casing of the plug is a metal plate which locates and retains the lugs once pushed in correctly.
If installed correctly the contact inside the plug should look like this.
DISCLAIMER: I have no electrical qualifications here in AUS>, so take this advice as that from a backyard hack.
