16' Series 150l fridge. Difficult/impossible to light on gas

xixau

Member
Oct 14, 2013
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We are about three months into our new 16.49.3 and have a 150l fridge installed. I have had a couple of issues with igniting the fridge on gas.

Normally I turn off the fridge first, then turn off the gas bottle. On one occasion, I turned off the bottle first and then a short time later, switched the fridge over. When I next tried to light the fridge it must have taken about fifteen minutes of trying and frustration, inducing holding the gas button down for over three minutes.

I since made the conscious effort to always turn off the fridge before turning off the bottle, however on our last trip, the gas ran out whilst the fridge was running on gas. I switched the bottles over, drew gas through to the cooker and out to the barbecue (something I have always done) but alas have not been able to relight the fridge. My wife has stated that she can smell gas from outside the van whilst I am trying this, which usually cues me to stop trying.

Has anyone else had similar experiences with this? Is there some magic process or formula for this?

I should add, we have previously had both a Hawk and Flamingo with fridges, and not had this problem with either of them.

Thanks in advance.

Xixau.
 

Smash

Active Member
Apr 23, 2013
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Perth WA
Hi I had a similar problem with our fridge drying to get the gas back up to the fridge from the bottles.I have over come this by igniting one of the gas hobs and leave it running for about 2 minutes then switch off and then dry igniting the fridge.By doing this it seems to bleed the line through ,by the way I always use the biggest gas hob.
 

blacky

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2013
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Townsville QLD
Mine can be a dead-set bastard too sometimes!

Can take up to 5 minutes of trying to get going, even with the burner going. Gets frustrating doesn't it! I keep my beer in the fridgemate 70l in the car to take the edge off the frustration ;) plus a couple of cans in the front cenre console fridge also for emergencies haha
 

xixau

Member
Oct 14, 2013
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29
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Thanks for all the responses. Yes I do always light the hob first, then the BBQ bayonet and even the hot water if we are using it just to purge the system, but alas this problem remains after all of these are completed. I will try waiting longer.
 

twscoot

Well-Known Member
Jun 9, 2013
990
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Brisbane
Maybe it's a sign for you to get into holiday mode earlier. Relax....... Patience......
:)
(Of course there may be a problem but mine does take time).
 

macca

(aka maccayak)
Mar 20, 2012
1,660
832
113
Victoria
Sounds like the ignition electrode is a fraction out of alignment so that would be a warranty issue. Try again for 30 seconds and see how you go. Don't go any longer and you can repeat process after 5 minutes.

You could get someone to wave a plate or similar gently in front of the bottom vent outside the van while you are on the inside trying to light the fridge, the disturbance of air may be enough to get the pilot lit. Other than that just make sure it is tuned on under the van and if it doesnt light run it on power.
 

xixau

Member
Oct 14, 2013
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That's just the problem twscoot, I am already in holiday mood and don't want to be stuffing around with the fridge. :(

Maccayak, it is due for its first service now, so will add it to the growing list. I have checked the outside valve too, will see how we get on with Jayco.

Thanks everyone for the input.
 

DaveS

Active Member
Jan 10, 2014
215
183
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Hi all
First post for me .... so be kind :
I'm a Tech for Jayco (enough said ..... you hate me already)
most of the problems i've seen with lighting fridges is a loose fitting on the thermocouple at the top of the fridge (you need to pull the fridge out 200 mm to access it) this fitting gets a few millivolts from the flame and holds the gas flow open with a magnetic valve as well as the show gauge, best way to check is open bottom fridge vent on the outside, remove the screw from top of flame cover, remove the cover over the flame below the chimney, which can be tricky depending on model, then get someone to hold down gas valve on fridge (not the ignitor) and light the fridge under the chimney with a gas bbq torch, if it lights but gauge don't move then 90% of the time it's a loose fitting on the gas valve on top of fridge behind the button, if it lights and gauge moves ok then the sparker is either to close or too far for a decent spark or sparking to the wrong spot, this can be adjusted with the single screw holder or if your gentle you can bend the sparker with a screwdriver (be careful they are fragile) best to check in a dim lighted area so you can see where it's sparking too
another common problem is a crook reg on the gas bottles, it will still run the stove alright but won't run the fridge ......
another issue is the wire on the ignitor comes off on the top of the fridge (another pull the fridge out a bit job) it's a round push on terminal which is usually taped in place with the shortest piece of tape ever, lack of spark points to this problem.
another problem is too much gas from trying, as someone said, wave a bit of air past it to remove the gas buildup, i always blow air into a stove when igniting it and they light straight away ........ so sometimes if you leave the fridge for 5 min it will light straight away ........ much to the disgust of the handover bloke who cant show a customer how to light it and you light it with one click LOL!!!

cheers Dave
 

Capt. Gadget

Obsessive & Compulsive Gadget Man
Dec 1, 2011
1,894
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Busselton W.A.
bbmwa.com.au
Hi all
First post for me .... so be kind :
I'm a Tech for Jayco (enough said ..... you hate me already)
most of the problems i've seen with lighting fridges is a loose fitting on the thermocouple at the top of the fridge (you need to pull the fridge out 200 mm to access it) this fitting gets a few millivolts from the flame and holds the gas flow open with a magnetic valve as well as the show gauge, best way to check is open bottom fridge vent on the outside, remove the screw from top of flame cover, remove the cover over the flame below the chimney, which can be tricky depending on model, then get someone to hold down gas valve on fridge (not the ignitor) and light the fridge under the chimney with a gas bbq torch, if it lights but gauge don't move then 90% of the time it's a loose fitting on the gas valve on top of fridge behind the button, if it lights and gauge moves ok then the sparker is either to close or too far for a decent spark or sparking to the wrong spot, this can be adjusted with the single screw holder or if your gentle you can bend the sparker with a screwdriver (be careful they are fragile) best to check in a dim lighted area so you can see where it's sparking too
another common problem is a crook reg on the gas bottles, it will still run the stove alright but won't run the fridge ......
another issue is the wire on the ignitor comes off on the top of the fridge (another pull the fridge out a bit job) it's a round push on terminal which is usually taped in place with the shortest piece of tape ever, lack of spark points to this problem.
another problem is too much gas from trying, as someone said, wave a bit of air past it to remove the gas buildup, i always blow air into a stove when igniting it and they light straight away ........ so sometimes if you leave the fridge for 5 min it will light straight away ........ much to the disgust of the handover bloke who cant show a customer how to light it and you light it with one click LOL!!!

cheers Dave
:welcome:Welcome aboard @DaveS on the contrary mate, as a Jayco Tech I think you will be a valuable member of our forum looking forward hearing from someone in the know about all our little issues and hoping we as users of the Jayco products can give some feedback that can help you as well

Cheers Grant
 
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DaveS

Active Member
Jan 10, 2014
215
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Mines a bitch to lite as well. Plus my needle only just hits the green section.
as long as it moves up that far it's fine, they have a very fine spring in those gauges so a little bit of calibration error from factory is normal, on saying that soot buildup on the thermocouple flame detector can drop the millivolts down as well, supposed to put out about 30 millivolts, but only about 20 required to hold the gas valve open. a bit of emery paper will clean the soot covered tip