14' Series Marv_Mart-Trip to the Kimberleys 2016

Dove

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Day 9: 9/06/2016. Kununurra to the Bungle Bungle (BB from now on) CP situated about 1km in of the Great Northern Hwy.
Dist: 254km, No other stats today until we are able to fill up at Hall's Ck (~108km further Sth) in two days time.
I did prep the BeasT for tomorrow, tyres back down to 30psi, extra 20l of diesel from one of my JCs.
Got here around 10:20am, 3 hrs from Kununurra.
Talking BeasTs, met a farmer from Bunbury at the 5 Rivers lookout yesterday with the same Colour BeasT as mine and we swapped a few stories. He has done nearly 340k km since he bought his for farm work in 2012 and had only a few minor hiccups. Hope mine does as well! 340,000km with barely a hiccup!
The drive here was still quite interesting so a few pics to keep your juices flowing.
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Some serious roadworks fixing up the road edges is under way, will make it much safer when coming across the 54.5m road trains that come through here.
Only had ~1km where we had to slow down behind a water sprayer!
Several bridges along this part of the highway are very narrow and 1 lane wide!
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No passing or overtaking!! Lol. The largest of these is about 200m crossing Bow River!
Yes, I am a Jimmy Barnes fan!
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Saw 2 groups of Brumbies grazing right next to the road as well as several herds of the obligatory cattle.
Never know if and when these guys will bolt and run so a real slowdown required.
About 250km since we started, the entrance to 'Purnululu NP', BBs to the rest of us appears around the corner.
A short dirt road past the gates opens out to grassed Powered and un-Powered sites, bush tents and group camping sites. Facilities v good considering where we are, diesel power so limited to 10A power on our site but no need for the AC tonight unlike the previous 5.
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Enjoying a quiet ale, having a giggle at some of the attempts by obvious newbies trying to back in their brand new, rarely camped before 50' long ( exaggerating just a little) mobile hotels into spaces three vans could fit in! Jackknifed 3 times, ran into rocks twice..... oh well, I was probably as bad (no I wasn't!!)
Temp today was surprisingly cool, ~27°C, very unlike the 36° we have had since Katherine!
Just catching up now with the world at large (3G Telstra ***) while we wait for the 6:00pm bush camp dinner we decided to book ourselves onto. By 3:00pm the CP is starting to fill up.
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Quite a few campers bypass the CP and go straight through to the NP to tent it or use their camper trailers.
Most of us here have larger vans and will do the guided tour ($315pp!!) or self drive like us.
Tomorrow we will travel the further 53km inland to the Park Visitor Centre, register the BeasT and do some 4x4 driving on the well marked tracks to see the various 'walks' both Nth and Sth of the PVC.
You will have to wait till tomorrow to see how the Bush Camp Dinner went and for pics of the BBs.
See y'all Marv
Is it true that the park don't provide rubbish bins?
 

Marv_mart

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Is it true that the park don't provide rubbish bins?
That's correct, as in many other NPs and remote locations with limited power(all diesel generated), water etc, they ask that what you bring in you take out. No issue with us. They do provide showers, toilets and some limited power sites (~15). We booked a power site.
 
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Marv_mart

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Day 10: Bungle Bungles, Dist: 193km. We did add one 20l JC as insurance.
We set out at 7:00am, about 1.5hrs after dawn and headed the 53km of dirt track to the Purnululu NP visitor centre. As the crow files, probably about 30km. The road in is fairly rough in parts, corrugated with many sections very windy. 3 River crossings with water, 2 required special caution. Speed varies between 15kph and 50kph. Just as we were entering the NP, kathump, kathump, RR tyre as flat as, only on the bottom though. Later inspection showed a sharp rock cut a slit about 3cm long right in the middle. Jack out, spare tyre down from the roof rack.... A friendly Sth Ozzie stopped and insisted he help out. Really appreciated it. While I jacked up the car, he loosened and undid the wheel nuts. Took us under 30 mins from stop to go, checked tyre pressures all round again, 30psi and we were on the way.
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Well, once through to the BBs, register our vehicle we were off, firstly down the south track to go to the Cathedral Gorge and Domes walk. I will let a few of the many pics we took tell their own story!
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Can't upload them all or I would be here all night and quite a few,including most of the panoramas, are too big!
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Cathedral Gorge was fantastic! Worth the trip just for this but 50 + pics later, I'll just try the best ones.
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Will continue this in a fresh post below.
Cheers
Marv
 
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Marv_mart

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Day 11: 11/6/2016 Bungle Bungles to Fitzroy Crossing
Dist: 290 + 303 (includes the 195km doing the Bungles)
Fuel: 40 + 62 + 20 from the JC =123litres
Cost: $170 @ 139.9¢/l
FE: 14.8l/100km BB to Hall's Ck, 13.8l/100km to Fitz X
Not much to see along this stretch but every time a large rocky looking thing looms past, Ms Marv whips out the camera.
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We did suss out an overnight stop about 96km East of Fitz X that we will use on the way back to Adelaide in about a weeks time. This will add 96km to the Broome-Fitz X + leg (396km to 482km) but reduce the next leg to Kununurra by 96km (648km to 552km) splitting the distance between Broome and Kununurra to make it an easier drive. The rest stop is called Ngumban Cliffs and very popular, no idea how to pronounce it but check it out on WikiCamps especially the Black Dog story people keep on referring to.
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Lots of 'Vache'!!! on the road but only one Cyclist! (Tour de France ref there). Look it up!
Arrived at Fitz X from the Bungles at about 11:30am and got ourselves a fully grassed site at the Fitzroy River Lodge, just east of the town before the last single lane bridge into town.
You cross 4 of these narrow bridges as you come into town from the East.
Probably crossed up to a dozen on our trip from Kununurra to here. This is the mighty Fitzroy River crossing!
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Pick your own site at this CP so good to get in early, it's now 5:00pm and most sites full. First in, Best Dressed suits us fine! This is the best of 3 CPs here, fully grassed, shady and safe! Price of the diesel is 158.8¢/l here at the bowser run by the park so a quick nip into town to get fuel at the Shell or BP gets you 139.9¢/l. This place has excellent facilities, very drinkable water, a bar and dining facilities if you wish to spoil yourself, we are opting for a Barra and chips takeaway from the Dining room tonight for dinner.
Well off to Broome for 4 days tomorrow so catch you then!
Marv
 
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Marv_mart

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Day 12: 12/6/2016 Fitz X to Broome.
Dist: 396 +25km touring, getting our bearings, it's been 4 years and things have changed.
Fuel: 59.83 l @ 136.9¢/l, FE: 14.2l/100km. We did have a bit of a tail wind in parts. Fairly flat country out here.
A very pleasant easy drive compared with the highly concentrated effort driving the BB's.
A few Varche and a few knobby bits that Ms Marv managed to spot on the landscape.
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We passed the turnoff to Windjana Gorge and Tunnel creek. A must see place when you come up here. This was the turn we took 4 years ago but this is a very rough tricky way in. Strongly suggest you take the entrance from the West coming from Derby, GRR and the Windjana track and back out the same way. Some of the creek crossings from this end are quite hairy!
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I promised that there would be no more Boabs but this is a monster on the way into Derby and of course more Varche on the road, some getting quite close as you can see. Those young ones can be quite skittish.
Didn't mention in my BB post that we passed a guy going in on the BB 53km track towing a Starcraft OB!
No idea how or whether he actually made it through those creeks, v tight turns and corrugations!
He must have shaken his van to bits or used 10 rolls of Duct tape taping every thing shut!
The staff at the CP couldn't believe it, they recommend trailer campers only, you know the short wheel base pop out tent type.
The Boabs remind me of those inflatable men that some businesses use to attract attention with their billowing arms above their heads, sure you know what I mean.
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Crossing one of the many large rivers as we near Broome.
The camel rides here are a real feature at Cable Beach and of course the only way to relax is a beer on the foreshore!
Jealous anyone?
Thought I would just finish off with a few shots of the sun setting over Cable beach as the many 4x4's come up from their sojourn along the beach and up the coast, mis-timing this means you are stranded for up to eight hours!
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Gee that Little Creatures Lager tastes good!!
Catch y'all tomorrow, tyre repairs, replacement tyre pump and some shopping is in order in the morning then I think some more Cable Beach!
Marv
 
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Marv_mart

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Hey @Marv_mart here is ours
http://www.expandasdownunder.com/threads/burnsies-oz-adventure.8644/

We left Broome a few days ago and in Derby now, heading off tomorrow morning on the GRR for a few weeks.

Looks like you guys are having a great time, enjoy
Missed you by ....... that much! Heading back to Kununurra then Katherine, Alice Springs then home via Woomera in about a week. Only have 4 weeks to do this trip. Enjoy the GRR! We went as far as the Pentacost River crossing coming in from the East, wanted to concentrate on the Bungle Bungles this trip. Emma Gorge is great, kids can swim in the pool at the end, will take 3hrs return trek.
 
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Marv_mart

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Day 13: Broome
It was just a wander around the town today, replacing the tyre with a suitable spare and buying a replacement for my air pump.
Only tyre they had available was a Khumo 61 AT 265/65 R17. It will do as my R rear tyre for now, put the Toyo back on the roof rack and when I get back to Adelaide will replace my other 3 Dunlops so I will have Toyo A/T II LT 265/65 R17's all round. The Khumo will do as the spare.
My air compressor was a cheapy and karked it at the BB's just as I finished re-inflating my tyres after our trip down the BB track. Bought a Bushranger Black Max, wasn't cheap but at least I feel confident that it will do the job if called upon.
Walked through town, spotted the bronze statues commemorating the towns founders, a cool drink in Shady Lane, picked up some Coopers (beer) at The Roey and some shopping to top up our supplies for the next week.
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Apart from being a very cool place to stroll past the shops all aimed at tourists of course, the Lane has 20 or so plaques along the walls giving a full history of the town from its early start as a stock hub, through its heyday as an oyster shell trading centre (shells used for buttons) and finally after the war when's plastics took over from pearl shell, the development of the town as a tourist centre for the Kimberleys.
If you do come this way, many do the Horizontal Falls tour or drive out to Cape Leveque.
All worthwhile. Just ask @burnsie!
Walk past the many Pearl shops in the Main Street, and there are MANY, we decided on tomorrow's adventure, a drive out to the Willie Creek Pearl Farm and do the tour. WIll take lots of pics of course and tell you about it tomorrow!
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image.jpeg This is now the local Contemporary Artists Gallery just back from the Main Street.
Some very nice pieces on display, all way too big for our house and my budget. It is the oldest of the original corrugated buildings in Broome, once a Pearler Traders office and included an ingenious air flue system that vented hot air out and brought in cooler air. You can see the flue on the roof of the building.
That's all for today, catch you tomorrow.
Marv
 
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Marv_mart

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Day 14: 14/6/2016 Willy Creek pearl farm and the Japanese cemetery.
We headed out to the Willy Creek Pearl Farm fairly early to avoid the heat of the day. Out onto the Cape Leveque road and then west along about 14km of dirt track that was fairly smooth, hardly a ripple so got out there in about 35 min.
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They are well set up for tourists with cafe, tours, chopper rides, lunch all available.
The Pearl Oysters have a life span of about 10 years and can generate upto $10,000 ea if they can get four cycles of Pearl growth from them, one every 2 years once mature and old enough to be seeded.
We booked in for a tour which included a thorough explanation of their Pearl cultivation processes, a trip out in one of their tenders to the pearl oyster beds in the creek and of course the expected sales pitch for their Pearl jewelry.
The main oyster beds are out at sea on long lines where they get regularly cleaned and de-loused. The ones in the creek are for their tourist demos but do contain pearls as you can see.
We watched this oyster being opened from the rack.
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The boat ride out to the oyster beds in the creek included a sighting of a croc, the remains of a fairly new LandCruiser that didn't quite get the tides right and anglers on the creek bank. Tide changes can be upto 9 meters so that car in the photo would be completely under water at a spring tide.
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This is the best I could do for the croc!
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Kept Ms Marv away from the Pearl jewelry! That last one was sold for $100,000 last week!
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Finished off the tour with a beef and Baramundi lunch. The cider is from the Adelaide hills
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Back to town to post a few post cards and then a visit to the Streeter jetty used by the early pearlers to bring their Pearl shells to shore.
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The tide is out at the moment but at high tide, the Luggers were moored alongside the jetty and with their flat bottoms were left stranded until the next rise in tide. When the tide is in, this jetty is underwater!
Next a visit to the Japanese cemetery, recently restored with the help of the Japanese Govt to commemorate the many Japanese divers that lived and died in Broome during its Oyster shell heyday. Many also died during the Cyclone season as they were unable to leave and had rudimentary shelters in those early days.
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Many of the headstones are made from the local sandstone so susceptible to weathering, the dark marble ones are those replaced during the restoration process where the 'inhabitants' were identified.
Well off to Cable Beach now for the evening sunset.
We have one day left before we head off back to Kununurra and Katherine.
Hope to have a few more touristy pics for you tomorrow
Marv
 
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Marv_mart

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Day 14: Supplemental.
I can confirm that the sun still sets in the West, that the camels still come up of the beach after sunset and that the 4x4's still line up South of the Cable Beach ramp and stretch out as far as the eye can see.
The 4x4 lined up along the beach;
( The sand worms clear out their holes after the tide retreats every day )
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The camels coming off the beach after sunset;
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And the sun still sets in west;
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Well off to Gantheaume Point tomorrow. The tidal range is only about 4m at the moment so no chance of seeing the dinosaur footprints as they require a low tide of below 2.1m. This means that the footprints will not be visible until June 20, 21, 22, 23 and the sunken Catalinas in Roebuck bay (tides below 0.86m) won't be visible until Aug 21, 22.
You need to time your visit to Broome well if you want to see these, the vertical falls trips also require reasonable tidal ranges to be worthwhile hence were not running over the last few days during the neap tides.
We have seen these on our previous trips so did not really check the tides when planning this time.
The same goes for the 'Stairways to the Moon', this requires a full moon rising from the East (Broome on Roebuck bay faces East as it is on a small peninsula) on evenings of extremely low tide. Next opportunity will be June 21, 22, 23 and July 20, 21, 22. Again, check before hand if you want to see this. Google them to get the future dates.
Cheers all,
Marv
 
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Marv_mart

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Day 15: Last day in Broome so just a few places to visit before we start to put stuff away, roll up the awning and get ready for our return trip, sob, sob.
Dist: 150km, Fuel: 18.22l @ 136.9¢/l, FE: 12.1 l/100km
Our first visit for the day was to Gantheaume Point on the South West corner of the 'Broome' peninsula. The tide was nearly at its full ebb but still 3-4m of water above the platform where the dinosaur footprints can be found.
Just a few shots around the point including some of the local wildlife;
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There is an eaglet on the second to top platform in a very large eyrie that takes up nearly the whole platform. Every time it flapped its huge wings, my camera finger wasn't ready! Down there on that ledge below the water line in pic 3, just to the left of that rocky outcrop are the prints, casts of which are in the car park so you can see what to look for.
Next a trip out to the Broome port and pier. The original jetty off the towns main beach further north and on the eastern side of the peninsula was destroyed by fire some years ago. The local version of the frangipani!
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Finally a few historical pics, the last from our stay in Broome.
Some old photos of the original jetty and the Open air film theatre, purportedly the worlds oldest still operating garden picture theatre, Sun Pictures.
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Next stop, Ngumban Cliffs rest stop, 96km past Fitz X.
Mr Whippy just paid us a visit, haven't seen one of them for quite a while!
Will catch up again when we get to Kununurra in 2 days time.
PS: Internet at Tarangau CP is fantastic, tower is 50m away, *****, photos uploaded in less then 1sec!
Marv
 
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Cammo

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Oct 3, 2015
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Day 15: Last day in Broome so just a few places to visit before we start to put stuff away, roll up the awning and get ready for our return trip, sob, sob.
Dist: 150km, Fuel: 18.22l @ 136.9¢/l, FE: 12.1 l/100km
Our first visit for the day was to Gantheaume Point on the South West corner of the 'Broome' peninsula. The tide was nearly at its full ebb but still 3-4m of water above the platform where the dinosaur footprints can be found.
Just a few shots around the point including some of the local wildlife;
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There is an eaglet on the second to top platform in a very large eyrie that takes up nearly the whole platform. Every time it flapped its huge wings, my camera finger wasn't ready! Down there on that ledge below the water line in pic 3, just to the left of that rocky outcrop are the prints, casts of which are in the car park so you can see what to look for.
Next a trip out to the Broome port and pier. The original jetty off the towns main beach further north and on the eastern side of the peninsula was destroyed by fire some years ago. The local version of the frangipani!
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Finally a few historical pics, the last from our stay in Broome.
Some old photos of the original jetty and the Open air film theatre, purportedly the worlds oldest still operating garden picture theatre, Sun Pictures.
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Next stop, Ngumban Cliffs rest stop, 96km past Fitz X.
Mr Whippy just paid us a visit, haven't seen one of them for quite a while!
Will catch up again when we get to Kununurra in 2 days time.
PS: Internet at Tarangau CP is fantastic, tower is 50m away, *****, photos uploaded in less then 1sec!
Marv
Hi Marv,
Loving the daily reports, out of interest did you look at other caravan parks in Broome? Where you happy with wear you stayed or is there not much choice due to peak times?
Cheers,
Cammo