Journey Portable fridge freezer

coys 53

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Oct 13, 2019
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Hi guys ive got a couple of q?
(1) I have a dual battery system in the the disco (standard batteries) when the fridge is left in the car no engine i get an err1 code (low voltage) same result when plugged into the van 12v any ideas how to fixl
9
(2) i
If I buy a 200w solar blanket and plug that into the aux battery in the car and plug fridge into the van 12v plug will it eliminate the err1 code
 
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Drover

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What sort of fridge ?

What is giving the code? Fridge or car ?

Let us know the ratings on the fridge as well..

Does sound like a hungry fridge or the settings have gone wonky, if it's a portable 3 way fridge it will be hungry when no alternator hanging off it.
 
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Boots in Action

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@coys 53 , if you have a compressor type fridge (240v AC or 24/12v DC), it could be that the battery protection switch at side of fridge is on the highest setting....Setting 1 (high battery protection against voltage dropping too low) could disconnect fridge if battery voltage drops below 12.0 volts, setting 2 (medium protection) may disconnect fridge if voltage drops below say 11.5 volts and lowest protection setting 3 may disconnect fridge if voltage drops below 11.0 volts. These figures are guesstimates as are setting numbers - refer manual for fridge for exact details. The error code could be an indication that is warning of voltage problem or wonky settings as @Drover said. I think a good multi-meter reading of battery voltages while under load connected to operating fridge would be a good start. If battery voltages are low (van and both starting and aux in tug) when engine NOT running, you could have a charging problem. If you do not have a DC to DC charging system for van battery and a proper setup for charging aux battery in tug, modern alternators do not charge extra/secondary batteries very well, if at all! See attached from RedArc.

I would hold back on buying any solar for extra power until reason/explanation of error code is known. Plugging in solar to aux battery in tug may help that battery but will not help your situation if the battery in van is also low.
 

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  • Alternators and charging voltages .pdf
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poor but proud

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Aug 25, 2018
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Hi guys ive got a couple of q?
(1) I have a dual battery system in the the disco (standard batteries) when the fridge is left in the car no engine i get an err1 code (low voltage) same result when plugged into the van 12v any ideas how to fixl
9
(2) i
If I buy a 200w solar blanket and plug that into the aux battery in the car and plug fridge into the van 12v plug will it eliminate the err1 code
 

coys 53

Active Member
Oct 13, 2019
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50
28
perth
Thanks gents the fridge is a dashuto 50ltr similar to the evercool compressor fridge err code 1 depicts low voltage on the fridge display. The fridge runs great whilst plugged into the cars rear 12v outlet with engine running and similar in the caravan whilst on 240v. The fridge will run for about 1/2 hrs on both 12v outlets before coding. It codes in the caravan even with the engine running (tried running on 12v from the caravan to destination and it had coded
Alan
 

poor but proud

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Aug 25, 2018
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redlands
Check the condition of your 12 volt feed cable paying attention to the condition of the fuse in the plug,any corrosion or bad contacts will cause voltage drop throwing up an error code even if the battery is good. If you are able test the cable for resistance to make sure full power is going through the cable and plugs
 
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Boots in Action

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Thanks gents the fridge is a dashuto 50ltr similar to the evercool compressor fridge err code 1 depicts low voltage on the fridge display. The fridge runs great whilst plugged into the cars rear 12v outlet with engine running and similar in the caravan whilst on 240v. The fridge will run for about 1/2 hrs on both 12v outlets before coding. It codes in the caravan even with the engine running (tried running on 12v from the caravan to destination and it had coded
Alan

Hi again Allan @coys 53 , two things have now been established. There is insufficient voltage to keep fridge running and this is very obvious when fridge is connected to van even with engine running. Too much voltage drop. You state that the fridge runs great when connected to 240 volt and also whilst connected to tug's rear 12 volt outlet with engine running. Does it run and for how long when on 12v and engine NOT running and will it run continuously without error code on 240 volts?
A multi-meter check on voltage at outlets when error code displayed will confirm if it is battery problem or charging problem. If it runs okay on 240v AC, but not on any 12v outlet for sustained period, it could be caused by too much current draw by 12v compressor motor or a burnt out wire in motor windings. More info on symptoms needed as it could also be poor wiring. Although current draw for compressor fridges would normally be around 2 to 3 amps. bad connections will rob you of the voltage you need.
 

Drover

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If you are using a cig lighter socket then there's a good chance that could be the cause, while you may have good cable on either side the internals are rarely good enough for the task, but if its chilled down and throwing the code it may be a deeper problem as they don't really draw that much once cold, assuming its a danfoss compressor ................ I use anderson plugs then I know they work.
 

coys 53

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Oct 13, 2019
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Morning Boots/ Drover
Boots it will run for a couple of hours without engine in the tug then codes and Will run for ever no code on 240 fridge is 2 years old
Drover
I have replaced the cig outlet with Anderson plug but still have build wiring from landrover outlet in van has same size of wire found in a small 7pin round which is the norm over here
Thanks alan
 

Boots in Action

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Mar 13, 2017
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Morning Boots/ Drover
Boots it will run for a couple of hours without engine in the tug then codes and Will run for ever no code on 240 fridge is 2 years old
Drover
I have replaced the cig outlet with Anderson plug but still have build wiring from landrover outlet in van has same size of wire found in a small 7pin round which is the norm over here
Thanks alan
Well Allan @coys 53 , that is very important information. The fact that the fridge will "run forever with no code" on 240 volt AC proves that there is nothing wrong with the fridge and the 240 volt compressor. Not sure if 240 volt AC is reduced (by transformer) to 12/24 volts and rectified to DC to operate the same compressor motor. Some experts on this forum will let you know. However, the fact that the fridge will operate on 12 volt DC for a while when tug engine not going and supplying charge to battery/ies before coding indicates that batteries are not capable of providing sustained (low) current without a serious voltage drop - sufficient to set code alarm warning of low voltage. That only leaves battery charge situation. Might be time to get some decent batteries or at least use a "smart" charger to get batteries up to full charge. Check alternator charge and set up for dual battery operation. Strongly believe that if alternator and wiring okay, then battery/ies are not capable of holding a charge for long. If you have been depending on your alternator charging your batteries in the past, then they have been allowed to run down over time (never charged up properly) and have become sulfated and lost ability to take/hold any charge. Only way around that is a DC to DC charger. Have a read to the attached to see where your tug sits as regards charging auxiliary batteries. Good luck!!
 

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  • Alternators and charging voltages .pdf
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  • Alternators and charging voltages 2.pdf
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coys 53

Active Member
Oct 13, 2019
126
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28
perth
Well Allan @coys 53 , that is very important information. The fact that the fridge will "run forever with no code" on 240 volt AC proves that there is nothing wrong with the fridge and the 240 volt compressor. Not sure if 240 volt AC is reduced (by transformer) to 12/24 volts and rectified to DC to operate the same compressor motor. Some experts on this forum will let you know. However, the fact that the fridge will operate on 12 volt DC for a while when tug engine not going and supplying charge to battery/ies before coding indicates that batteries are not capable of providing sustained (low) current without a serious voltage drop - sufficient to set code alarm warning of low voltage. That only leaves battery charge situation. Might be time to get some decent batteries or at least use a "smart" charger to get batteries up to full charge. Check alternator charge and set up for dual battery operation. Strongly believe that if alternator and wiring okay, then battery/ies are not capable of holding a charge for long. If you have been depending on your alternator charging your batteries in the past, then they have been allowed to run down over time (never charged up properly) and have become sulfated and lost ability to take/hold any charge. Only way around that is a DC to DC charger. Have a read to the attached to see where your tug sits as regards charging auxiliary batteries. Good luck!!

Well Allan @coys 53 , that is very important information. The fact that the fridge will "run forever with no code" on 240 volt AC proves that there is nothing wrong with the fridge and the 240 volt compressor. Not sure if 240 volt AC is reduced (by transformer) to 12/24 volts and rectified to DC to operate the same compressor motor. Some experts on this forum will let you know. However, the fact that the fridge will operate on 12 volt DC for a while when tug engine not going and supplying charge to battery/ies before coding indicates that batteries are not capable of providing sustained (low) current without a serious voltage drop - sufficient to set code alarm warning of low voltage. That only leaves battery charge situation. Might be time to get some decent batteries or at least use a "smart" charger to get batteries up to full charge. Check alternator charge and set up for dual battery operation. Strongly believe that if alternator and wiring okay, then battery/ies are not capable of holding a charge for long. If you have been depending on your alternator charging your batteries in the past, then they have been allowed to run down over time (never charged up properly) and have become sulfated and lost ability to take/hold any charge. Only way around that is a DC to DC charger. Have a read to the attached to see where your tug sits as regards charging auxiliary batteries. Good luck!!
Thanks Boots will load aux Battery as this is of unknown age where as the main crank Battery was replaced 2 years ago
Alan
 

Boots in Action

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Mar 13, 2017
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Thanks Boots will load aux Battery as this is of unknown age where as the main crank Battery was replaced 2 years ago
Alan
Just remember @coys 53 that a poor/low battery will pull down the charge in a good battery. If the main crank battery is not tops, then the newer aux battery will be dragged down so that both are about equal charge. That will depend on how batteries are connected to each other and the charging source. Always better to have BOTH batteries of the same age, and capacity, unless the aux battery can be isolated from crank battery for discharge purposes. I notice that the Land Rover Disco 4 is listed on the Red Arc sheet as having the variable charge voltage alternator and this could be you main problem in charging tug, aux and van battery - insufficient charging voltage.
 

Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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Before I'd go chucking batteries, do you have a mate with an aux battery ? run it off his and see what happens then at least it will show up a battery or a fridge problem, Sons Waeco is a shed fridge as I think it does the same works on 240but a dud on 12v, I have steered clear of looking at it circuit boards just mean hassles.