Suspension Wheel bearings 2018 JJOB

Hitting the road

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Jan 14, 2022
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Would anybody know what wheel bearings and seals are fitted to, or can be fitted to, a 2018 JJOB with the JTech independent type suspension? I imagine all the bearing fitment would be the same since the introduction of the JTech set up with the 12" brakes and 15" diameter rims. . I totally forgot to note the bearing type when I was repacking them the other week

Also, wheel rim width...would anybody know what it is with the 15" standard rim width is when fitted with their Adventuro AT GT Radial?

many thanks
 

Guesty

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Jun 18, 2021
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I'm positive my 2016 17.56-2 had the 2t Alko Bearings in the hubs when I repacked them all, were about $75 per hub.

You can get the cheap Chinese ones, but are pretty rubbish quality.
 
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Drover

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Its always best to check as caravans are notorious for not having any sort of conformity..... can you recall if the stub axle was tapered or parrallel ???

Far better to physically check than take a chance .......... I buy spares bearings from a bearing shop, usually a Jap bearing set, even though all the bearings makers have plants in China so you never know where they came from originally but a bearing shop is certainly less costly than some RV shop.... and it pays if you can't read the numbers to measure the actual stub axle....

Rim size will be stamped on the rim usually on the inside something like 8JJ15 ET35, being the 8 is the rim width, the J or JJ is the bead profile of the rim, 15 is the diameter and ET35 is the off set, this case being 35mm..........
 
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Hitting the road

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Jan 14, 2022
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Its always best to check as caravans are notorious for not having any sort of conformity..... can you recall if the stub axle was tapered or parrallel ???

Far better to physically check than take a chance .......... I buy spares bearings from a bearing shop, usually a Jap bearing set, even though all the bearings makers have plants in China so you never know where they came from originally but a bearing shop is certainly less costly than some RV shop.... and it pays if you can't read the numbers to measure the actual stub axle....

Rim size will be stamped on the rim usually on the inside something like 8JJ15 ET35, being the 8 is the rim width, the J or JJ is the bead profile of the rim, 15 is the diameter and ET35 is the off set, this case being 35mm..........

Thanks Drover...I was just being slack. I went down and took the spare off and checked what the rims are...15x8JJ...I wasn't sure whether they would be 7.5" or 8". Being I am fitting new tyres before we head away on the lap and wanted to be sure my choice of tyre would fit ok.
The standard tyres it came with are 235 / 75 / R15, a 28" tyre. I am going to fit 265 / 70 / R15's which are a 29" tyre, but needed an 8" rim which I have. It'll give a bit more width but will lose no sidewall depth in reality going from the 75 profile to the 70.

The axles are tapered not parallel. I will need to pull a hub off and have a look at what the bearings are. As Guesty noted above he replaced with the 2T bearings when he replaced his. I wasn't going to replace the bearings as they were fine when I pulled the hubs a month ago to check the brakes, and threw some more grease on them.
I always like to carry a couple of spare sets just in case of a failure in the middle of nowhere...
 

Drover

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Always pays to physically check............ bearings best check whats fitted a pain to check, I did with mine then found that Big Mals maintenance book listed them, mine are parrelel so same bearing on outer as inner, my bearings are the same ones it came with, so they have done over 80K km, always checked after each trip and greased up once a year as I give the brakes a clean, not a biggy as my vehicles run near 300K km without a change and sometimes not even a grease..... Regular maintenance is the key as you know..... and its a bluddy pain but pays off...................... I think I have old spares of Holden and Ford bearings, all greased up and still sealed in their vac sealed bags......... have no idea what my boat trailer bearings are but have them covered I think.........

Don't forget to carry a spanner that fits the hub nut and a split pin, or a 3" nail, coat hanger wire works as well. I have a huge metric adjustable, covers many tasks.... Why have mine lasted, I pack the hub enough so if water gets in theres not a lot and I have taken to using marine bearing grease, when I have removed and greased them I go for a spin around the block then jack up and give them a shake, something I hate doing but force myself to do it, otherwise that will be the time one is loose.......... Murphys Law is proven to lay i wait for me..........

Those new tyres will be 10mm higher, 30mm wider which will mean the sidewall will be 15mm closer to the inner part of the guard/chassis, which is usually okay... hope they are LTs as if they are P rate you might be running close to max pressure... going by my slide rule.
 
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Hitting the road

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,,,always LT's as far as tyres go. Hankook RF2's in fact...over 1000kg load rated and speed rated to 180kmh, so should be fine...lol. I had same on my WJ and they were pretty good all round and wore well. The main thing I will have to watch for is scalloping...some tyres don't like just rolling and can wear unevenly...shocks have to be good as well or can lead to issues.
Yeah, plenty of clearance all round for an increase in diameter...could easily go taller without any problems. The van does nose up a tad when hooked up as it is, so adding a half an inch of height will only assist anyway...
 
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Drover

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Not an aggressive tread, shouldn't scallop unless the axle set is out a bit, which would be a surprise on a caravan, :becky: :becky: :becky: :becky:, bit of humour for the morning..... I give mine a rotate every so often usually after a trip when I do the checks that way the back axle tyres get a break as they will tend to chop out with turning and loading, I have Knee suspension so not load distribution or anything just independant so if one wheel is higher than others its cops more load but sharp turning on hard ground is a great chewer of rear rubber on any tandam axle jobbie..........

Had them earmarked as a possible replacement for the Geolanders on Jeep and Van, expensive suckers for Jeep but the 265 70R16 for van about $70 cheaper...
 
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Hitting the road

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Yes, I believe tyre rotation just as important on a tandem axle van as well. The RF2's are not directional either so flipping from side to side so they run the other way will be ok, just as I do with the tug to keep the wear as even as possible. Maybe even put the spare in to the mix to see a longer overall tyre life...